Cap birch. Cap processing. Crafts and products from birch burl Products from burl

Instruction

From each kidney-needle, a large number of which concentrated on a small surface, forming a cap, a branch could grow. Due to the fact that there are a lot of buds, not a single one can get out of the wood. From the collection of buds, a texture is formed that is unusual in shape and pattern. Not a single layer of wood can compete with burl for the natural beauty, complexity and rarity of the material. The unique birch burl is called wood malachite; burls on cherry, bird cherry and walnut are interesting. A cap is often called an influx, but this is a misnomer. Professionals can easily distinguish a cap from an influx - a layer of wood of the same tree, but with mixed growth rings. The influx when cut resembles marble with white veins.

Cap is divided into two varieties: needle cap and root cap. Needle is the rarest, it grows very slowly and only in early spring- when the leaves hatch on the trees, its growth stops. When making a transverse incision through the cap, you can find the place of its origin, the pattern will resemble a funnel, tapering towards the center of the trunk - this is the beginning of the needle cap. The large cap is very hard to find and highly prized. Cap-spine is similar in structure to needle-back, but there is a difference in the pattern of wood texture, which is darker and larger. It develops on the roots and in the root zone, on trees growing on moist soil - near streams, swamps and along river banks.

Even because of the big and beautiful cap to spoil living tree not worth it. Moreover, it is not difficult to find this natural anomaly - many burls develop on tree trunks in city parks, on poplars, American maples and lindens. A large number of trees are cut down every year, and it is not difficult to extract burls from them. If the need to remove the cap from a living tree is very great, this is done starting from late autumn and before early spring, while the movement of sap in the tree is slowed down. For sawing, a saw with universal teeth is taken, the cut is made strictly along the trunk, vertically, without affecting the main wood. If the movement of the saw is very difficult, a spacer is made from a pair of wooden wedges that are hammered into the slot. After the cap is completely separated, the saw cut is immediately painted over with oil paint or drying oil. It is useless to paint over a cut made in the spring - the movement of the juice cannot be stopped by this, and the tree will inevitably be very sick.

Burl lends itself well to processing, it does not crack, warp or swell, and besides, its strength is several times higher than the wood of the tree on which it grows. The best option use - immediately after harvesting, clean the cap from the bark and saw it into planks 3-5 mm thick, so that later it can be used for the production of caskets or mosaics. In this option, the use of burl is more optimal, and in the manufacture of various bowls, vases and bowls, most of the material is lost. Most interesting drawing cap gives with a chordal cut, it is, as a rule, a lot of points, each of which is surrounded by rings of a different shade, and different shades flow between the rings.

Sources:

• Growths on a birch

The texture of the burl often has such a bizarre pattern that you can see a finished image or landscape on it. In other cases, the burl is sawn and processed.

Instruction

If the cap is quite large, and, according to the idea, more than one thing, but several, can be made from it, it is sawn before processing. Most often, a cap is sawn into plates of various thicknesses: the thickness depends on what products are planned to be manufactured. To obtain the best pattern on all blanks, the cutting angle must be thought out in such a way as to cut as many dormant buds as possible. On a fresh cut, the pattern is hardly noticeable, but an untreated cap is easier to cut. But before making it into a product, the cap is steamed so that the drawing shows through completely and it can be shown in the work. It is best to steam the cap in small ones, you can do this in. You will need an unnecessary pan of a suitable size, the dyes released by the wood will be difficult to wash off. Sawdust is placed in a thick layer on the bottom, then a cap is laid out on them - but not close, there should be half a centimeter of gap between the blanks. From above, they are also laid with sawdust, but not in such a thick layer.

Filled with salt water, but mostly bottom layer so that the water only touches the workpieces, not covering them entirely. Salt is taken per liter about a tablespoon, maybe a little more. Close the lid and put on a very slow fire. After boiling, the workpieces should be steamed for 6-10 hours, water should be added to the pan periodically, checking every hour. The pot is then removed from the heat and left to cool. The blanks are removed from the cooled sawdust, the sawdust is washed off with a jet of water, left to dry, turning over to dry evenly every few hours. Drying usually takes 3-4 days. After the blanks dry out, you need to repeat the process of boiling, then dry again, and so on at least 3 times. If, after three steamings, the bark itself has not fallen off the blanks, it must be removed. After steaming the burl blanks last time and, having removed the bark, leave the wood for the final drying. It is best to dry them outside, turning every few hours for the first 3 days, then once a day. After that, it’s a good idea to dry the workpieces in a special drying cabinet 2-3 times.

Large pieces of a solid burl, larger than a soccer ball, are not suitable for processing in this way. In the process of cooking or drying, the cap will definitely crack, and may burst. Figures from a solid burl are processed in the same way as any tree - they are polished, varnished. Boiling is best for burls that are sawn into thin slices. When steamed, these blanks are dyed with natural dyes in a wide variety of shades, from light golden to chocolate brown. After this lengthy treatment, you can begin to further improve the cap. Finished products are coated with alcohol or acrylic varnishes. Nitro-varnishes can also be used. Before coating, the surface is polished with emery - first large, and then the smallest, and wiped from wood dust with a soft cloth.

Sources:

• Cap processing

Drying burl and suveli at home. Drying burl and suveli. So first, let's define some concepts. KAP- (aka a witch's broom) is a benign formation on a tree, which is a bundle of thin twigs growing from a drop-shaped (most often) growth. When cross-sectioned, it has a texture with pronounced knot cores. It is difficult to process due to the strongly curly texture and the huge number of knots. Extremely beautiful, durable, perfectly sanded and polished.

Separate numerous areas have a mother-of-pearl tint. It has no great industrial value, but is highly valued because of its beauty. If it is used in industry, it is only in the form of veneer for furniture finishing (mostly exotic wood burl is used), as well as the production of small items such as caskets, cigarette cases, women's hairpins, small jewelry (birch burl). Use on knife handles is considered good taste, and also appreciated by wood carvers for its unique texture.

It is impossible to find two identical pieces of burl, even halves of a sawn burl have a different pattern, the growth is so heterogeneous. It grows on many trees (linden, alder, birch, maple, oak, etc.), but the most valuable and beautiful is birch (from those growing in our latitudes). The build-up is usually small, maximum the size of a volleyball or a large plate.

Cutting some kind of pattern on the cap does not make sense, since the texture clogs everything. We look at photos of what tutati looks like: The photo shows birch burl. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a cut of exactly a birch burl (I took these pictures next to the local police station and, as you understand, they wouldn’t give me anything to cut down there ... But I contrived and found a burl of ash, most of the burls are similar in texture and differ only color and size of knot cores

Suvel is a drop-shaped or spherical growth on a tree (there is also an annular variety, it covers the tree trunk around the perimeter), it usually grows 2-3 times faster than the tree itself. When cut, it has a texture similar in pattern to marble and mother-of-pearl (this is the main sign of difference from CAPA, in the future do not confuse suvel and burl). The presence of mother-of-pearl stains on a polished tree creates a beautiful iridescent picture that glows from the inside. The twist is also poorly processed, like the burl, but not as hard.

The size varies from a walnut up to 1.5 meters high (I myself saw one on a birch) and up to 2 meters in diameter (an annular suvel completely covered the tree trunk). In the Vatican, there is a font much more than a meter in diameter, carved from a single piece of suvel. He himself once sat in an armchair carved from suveli. Holds fine thread perfectly, but it is not recommended to cut the suvel. It is better to sand and varnish (impregnate with oil). The product will only benefit from this.

The most valuable is the root or butt streak. The presence of dark veins and well-defined twisted annual rings. This is a fairytale. BEAUTIFUL, that says it all. The barrel suvel is distinguished by a finer texture and a finer "frosty" pattern. And lighter wood. In terms of strength, the butt suvel is slightly superior to the stem one due to the structural features of the tree trunk. Suvel is strong, beautiful, easily polished and polished. Well-dried and processed, it begins to "glow" from the inside (with proper impregnation with oils, the tree becomes like amber and even a little transparent). Usually has a color from pale yellow to pinkish brown to quite ocher brown. It all depends on the conditions and drying time. Cap has the same colors.

chaga- this is a mushroom (not to be confused with a tinder fungus !!!) and we do not need it for our purposes.

1. We cut down the growth. We do this with a sharp saw. Otherwise, you will be tormented by sawing, and the tree will begin to shaggy. We do not clean the bark. Do not forget to cover the cut on the tree with oil paint or wax, or something similar.
CUTTING THE GROWTHS IS DESIRABLE IN THE DRY SEASON, IDEALLY AT THE END OF AUGUST, THE BEGINNING OF SEPTEMBER, BEFORE THE BEGINNING OF Sap ​​Flow.

2. We take an unnecessary pan (bucket), and throw a piece of wood there. The pan is precisely unnecessary, since during the cooking process a very tricky broth is formed, which is then very troublesome to wash. It is better to clean the piece of wood from all sorts of rags of birch bark and other fragile and dangling tails. still fall off. I'm considering exactly birch growth, as the most accessible and beautiful, the rest of the growths are brewed using the same technology. The log is accordingly cleaned of any debris and fragile particles. We pour water. It is convenient to do this with a faceted glass (it contains 250 ml). Water should cover the piece of wood by about a centimeter or two. The tree naturally floats up, but let's press it to the bottom and see everything. It doesn't matter if you pour water, cold or hot - it will boil anyway. You can throw a piece of wood into a saucepan no matter how much it is a pity, the volume of a separate piece of wood is important and not the total volume of wood.

3. We take table salt, which is not a pity. We don't make soup. Pour 2 large tablespoons with a top of salt per liter of water (who will count glasses of water ??? Huh?). It is possible and more, no matter how much it is a pity, it's okay, it's impossible to overdo it. The main thing is that the water should be sugary salty. You can use clean sea water (just clean, otherwise it will be disgusting to smell like mud). Salt will draw juices from the tree, but the tree will not saturate.

4. We find sawdust of resinous wood species. Spruce, pine, the easiest to get. We take a saw: and forward. We need two powerful handfuls of sawdust (we rake the sawdust with both hands). It is sawdust, and not shavings from a simple hand planer. The shavings will come from an electric planer (you can get it at the nearest sawmill or cut it yourself). I always use them. They are quite small and are usually plentiful and easy to obtain. The more resin in the sawdust, the better. And the smaller the sawdust, the better. We fall asleep in a saucepan. It was possible to take a saucepan and more! Sawdust will give the suveli a pleasant ocher color. From soft pink-yellow to ocher-brown. And also resins will add strength to wood and show texture.

5. When the water boils, reduce the fire and leave it simmering for 6-8 hours, maybe more, as long as you have enough patience. If the saucepan is large, then you can not turn down the flame, let the water boil and bubble. But you need to watch that the water does not boil away completely. Salt, sawdust, temperature and time will do their job. Add water as needed. During the cooking process, a red "broth" is formed. And scum. Scale is best removed immediately. It is very difficult to wash off.

6. 6-8 hours have passed (depending on the size of the piece of wood). We take out the wood. Rinse under running water from sawdust. We throw out the water from the pan as useless, but you can leave it for the next time, if you have somewhere to store it. But pouring water is easier. We throw the build-up on the cabinet with nothing on wrapping it. For a day or two, let it cool down.

7 The process of cooking and drying is repeated 2-4 times, depending on the volume of wood. You can use a pressure cooker to speed up the process. Time is reduced to 4-6 hours.

8. At the last cooking, you need to quickly peel off the bark while the tree is hot. Although she herself should fall off by this time. Carefully!!! Hot!!! use gloves!

9. We throw it on the closet for a week or two. The wood is basically already dry, but let the remaining moisture go. The tree will "get used" to the atmosphere. After the final drying, the tree will become like a bone, and it will be possible to cut, saw, grind it. There will be no foreign smell. It will only smell like wood.

10. In the process of accelerated drying of wood, it must be remembered that small cracks may appear, and therefore an allowance must be made for their removal in subsequent processing.

11. Where to look for growths... Naturally in the forest. BUT! there are no specific places of growth, they grow spontaneously, and the largest and most beautiful growths will be found by the most big-eyed and persistent. This activity is akin to hunting for mushrooms, whoever ran around the forest more and further got more. Look like that's it:. Once again I remind you that large pieces cannot be dried like that. Cracked. Necessarily. Checked.

12. After the tree finally gets used to the atmosphere, we make a knife. You will find how it is done yourself, not small ones. In any search engine you will type "" how to make a knife "" and you will be happy. It is desirable to impregnate the suvel and cap with oil and, if desired, with wax too. The tree will show the texture, "play" as they say, all the inner beauty will appear.

A wide variety of handicrafts (caskets, cigarette cases, frames, etc.) have long been made from burl - this material of extraordinary strength and beauty - for a long time. Excellent samples of burl, or, as it was called, "onion" dishes, dated from the 16th-17th centuries, are kept in the Armory of the Moscow Kremlin, as well as in the Zagorsk State Historical and Art Museum-Reserve. Looking at them, you will not immediately think that they were made with an ax, a scraper and a knife from a piece of wood, or rather, a growth on a birch.

The name of such a growth is cap, and it comes, as is commonly believed, from the ancient Slavic word "cap", which means head. At first glance, the burl growing on a tree really resembles in shape human head. The burl can be found both on the branches of old trees and on the trunk itself - the stem burl. If we remove the bark, we will see that the “head” is all covered with tubercles, papillae, needles. The rarest and therefore the most valuable burl is usually found on the branches. Usually its dimensions are small: 10...15 cm, but sometimes there are specimens up to 40 cm or more. To determine the value of the build-up, the master made a small cut with a damp cloth, or simply, impatiently licking his finger, ran it along the cut to see the main thing - a pattern that is unique in every burl “smelting”. Cap lends itself well to processing, does not warp, does not crack, does not swell, does not shrink, besides, it is so strong and weighty that some "craftsmen" wastefully make hammers out of it.

They find a burl on oak, walnut, black alder, aspen, but most often on birch. Sometimes there are several burls on one tree. Some experts believe that birch burl has the most beautiful wood, others - walnut. Kapokoren is nothing more than a burl formed at the root neck of a tree. Sometimes it protrudes above the ground. "Underground" burl (on the roots) can be found by the shoots that he lets out every spring. These non-viable, quickly withering shoots give black dots in the texture of the kaporon, located among the trunk fibers that are lighter in tone.

Kapokorni are circular, encircling a tree, and one-sided. The latter are most often formed with south side. The largest of the kapokorn reach a diameter of up to 2 m, and weigh as much as a ton.

Oak and walnut kapokorn are especially large in size. Of these, more than one countertop can be made. The old masters of Vyatka used to paste over furniture with plates sawn from kapokorn. True, the root cap is not valued as highly as a real one that has grown on a tree trunk or branch. The wood at the root cap is softer, and the pattern is simpler. A large caproot is characteristic of birches aged 70-80 years, growing freely - in clearings or forest edges. As a rule, burl birches grow most often in mixed forest, usually along streams, small rivers, near lakes and swamps, and they usually grow not too close to each other.

There is a double at the cap - suvel. This woody fold is an influx, which sometimes forms at the site of a fold or break in a young tree. Suvel wood is also quite strong. From it, cabinetmakers make handles for tools, grind skittles, croquet balls. Distinguishing a suvel from a burl is quite simple, since the surface of the first is smooth, and on its cut (saw) there is no main advantage of the burl - a beautiful texture. On the same section, only long and rare zigzags of fibers are visible.

Burlap wood is rare, natural material, developing in the form of growths on the branches, trunks and at the roots of individual trees, mainly deciduous species: oak, walnut, maple, poplar, but most often - birch. Caps are places of growth of closely spaced adnexal and dormant buds.

The most rare, beautiful, durable and, accordingly, the most valuable is the branch burl, which has a small size (up to 15 cm in diameter) and a needle-like structure. The most common, less dense and less valuable is the root burl - kapokoren, which can reach gigantic (up to 1.5 ... 2 m in diameter) sizes. The stem cap occupies an intermediate position between the above varieties.

For a long time it was believed that burl is a painful growth on a tree, arising from the “clamping” of the buds by sudden and prolonged spring colds, which sometimes occur during the growing season of the plant.

The appearance of outgrowths was also associated with external damage to the cortex at the site of one of the dormant buds, where the excess influx of juices is directed, contributing to their multiple multiplication.

However, scientists came to the conclusion that cap is a biologically normal, protective phenomenon. Burl birch is the most valuable variety of Russian downy birch and burl formation on it is a naturally inherited process.

As a result of observations, it was found that the health of such a tree is better than that of others, it is more viable during the spring flood and frequent changes in temperature, and is more stable in the wind.

A real burl, which has an uneven surface under the bark in the form of tubercles, papillae or needles, should be distinguished from an influx (suvel) caused by local deformation of the annual layers of wood. Such influxes have an increased density and an interesting, albeit less spectacular, pattern.

The burl has a significantly (50...70%) denser than the mother wood with a wavy, multidirectional fiber structure, which, in combination with a large number of the above-mentioned buds, form an absolutely unique cut pattern.

A unique combination of properties of burl wood:

The limited natural resources, combined with the above properties, puts this material on top of the value among other types of wood, with all the species diversity. flora our planet.

According to some estimates, 1 tree with a burl accounts for, on average, 3000-5000 ordinary trees without a burl.

Due to the high value of the material, since 1959, the Central Research Institute of Forest Genetics of the USSR Academy of Sciences, which developed the technology for sowing and growing burl birches, has been studying the biology of burl and methods of growing it. A whole grove of such birches was planted in the suburbs. Since 1967, burl birch has been planted in several forestries of the Kirov region.

For the unique beauty of cap is called wooden malachite!

In general, the smaller the pattern and the larger the cap size, the more expensive it is.

About the value of this unique material speaks historical fact, given in the book “burl box” (author Nadezhda Perminova): “... in 1837, for a growth of a cap of twenty pounds (a little more than 8 kg), they paid up to fifty rubles, ...., a thoroughbred bull at an agricultural exhibition was estimated at the same amount.”

Today, on the world market, the price of burl wood (solid and veneer) is several times higher than the price of any other, including: oak, elm, walnut, mahogany and any exotic species.

The unique combination of material properties, limited stocks and the uniqueness of the burl pattern in each product, ultimately, determined the generally recognized, high aesthetic value and corresponding consumer price of products made from this wood, which is used in the decoration of the most luxurious interiors, as well as in the manufacture of appropriate level of utilitarian items.

Each such product initially contains spirit of elitism.

(Based on the book "Kapovaya casket" by N.I. Perminova, the city of Gorky, Volga-Vyatka book edition, 1984)

brek-45 14-04-2012 23:03

found 2 birch trees 45 centimeters in diameter each with burl growths in a circle they are covered to a height of 6-7 meters and grow from one butt, too, a burl about a meter and a half in diameter is not exactly covered with buds, one below sawed off, it’s a pity there was no camera with me in order to show the whole I took a picture of the house that I sawed off. the question is how to cut everything correctly, since I have never done this before. I'll try to upload a photo, maybe the Hansa will accept

brek-45 15-04-2012 12:00

Well, does anyone really know how to cut it correctly? either first on the chocks and dry it, or can these chocks be cut in half in length on a damp one, or can you just saw off the growths from the trunk, as I did with one, and the butt just into pieces as it should be?

Scunc 15-04-2012 12:42

and then you can’t guess, it’s a lottery.

Shukher 15-04-2012 01:24

quote: Well, does anyone really know how to cut it correctly?

YoNas_Kaki 15-04-2012 02:06

I will say from my own experience - personally, I would start by removing the bark. Because after its removal, the view on how exactly it is worth starting to cut can change VERY STRONGLY.

Shukher 15-04-2012 02:20

San her horseradish separate until you cook. There is no such saucepan ...
"Dokhtor said" cut! "means to cut!")))
Along it along! Across!

YoNas_Kaki 15-04-2012 02:33

quote: San her horseradish separate until you cook.

Before peeling the bark, it looked like an almost perfect hemisphere

Shukher 15-04-2012 02:40

San propose a compromise - not fucking stand on ceremony with her! What kind of unseen is this - a piece of firewood. You are creating problems for yourself. You will carve out an extra couple of centimes for yourself and then cut them off yourself or cut them into a product.
It is quite another thing if you cut a vase out of this biting - then yes, you can get confused.

YoNas_Kaki 15-04-2012 02:45

Shukher 15-04-2012 02:56

Anyway, cut the kidneys down to the meat.

brek-45 15-04-2012 08:12

thanks to all, especially the comrade with the nickname nix with this piece is understandable, but the question is more concerned about how to deal with the rest of the roofing felts as well, or better on chocks and let them dry under the roof or these chocks before drying can also be dissolved in length

Dago 15-04-2012 10:50

Cut and weld. Pre-cut in a chaotic manner)

Shukher 15-04-2012 12:14

quote: can these chocks before drying can also be dissolved in length

And throwing the pieces in their own juice to dry under the roof (and even when the cut is in the sap flow) is wasteful. The material is capricious if it is hurt in the cut.
Ring caps along the trunk can be dried in this way if you leave 10-15 cm of the trunk on each side. I dried the hazel like this - the trunk was in rags, and the suvel itself was alive.

brek-45 15-04-2012 14:50

Shukher 15-04-2012 16:12

For troubles, let knowledgeable comrades tell me, I'm not special here.

YoNas_Kaki 15-04-2012 19:25

quote: larch sawdust is very resinous

brek-45 15-04-2012 19:49

I will definitely try. by the way, thanks for the advice on cleaning from the bark, now I went to remove the bark and not only from this piece, but there was also one from the root every five times more, and three pieces of a kilogram of 30-35 each really not so clean, but on a rough ax and it immediately became clear where and how to cut tomorrow after work, I think first with a chainsaw on a large scale and then with a circular saw on bars in the size of 60x60x160mm, or you need a larger one, or vice versa, it can be smaller. for myself, I concluded that the suvel and the root cap need to be cleaned even on a tree if the height allows after that you can cut it not all at once, but in parts along the joints, if there is, it’s easier to carry to the car and there is less garbage at home.

YoNas_Kaki 15-04-2012 19:58

At the expense of larch sawdust, wait. Here, with Shukher, we had a personal dispute on this topic, and in the course of it, I demonstrate a clear misunderstanding of the essence of the process. So maybe they won’t go. Now we will reach some kind of consensus with him ...

Shukher 15-04-2012 20:07

brek-45 15-04-2012 21:28

it’s not a question I’ll wait anyway tomorrow to cut and cook not earlier after tomorrow there is time. yes, I read in the topic on this link that they add larch bark or willow bark when cooking for tinting, but I have birch chaga, do you think it’s worth adding any of them to the composition for cooking or not?

Romanz 15-04-2012 22:00

willow bark or thin sliced ​​​​twigs - what you need, the smell is stunned))) and the color is good ...

tm105 16-04-2012 11:26

I cooked without sawdust, in pieces so that they fit into a bucket, cooked for 6 hours, the bark fell off during the cooking process, then dried it. Sawed after drying. I didn’t tint anything, after impregnating the handle with linen, it turned out to be such an amber color, and the veins seemed to be translucent, I like it better - without paint.

YoNas_Kaki 16-04-2012 20:24

quote: Originally posted by Shukher:

you need to boil with salt, branches of willow and juniper.
Salt is clearly a matter of increasing the temperature at a boil and branches of willow and juniper for the contrast of the layers.
And then show a photo of the finished product. And tell the whole world the composition of the brew.

Shukher 16-04-2012 21:09

Why did you give me up ahead of time. It was necessary to say from myself that everyone knows about it, and you also knew sure, probably just forgot.
New way simple to disgrace.
It remains to be checked. But the test will be ready in a month, not earlier - until that time it will not dry. And TC wants right now - then old method written.

It is desirable to see what happened with the vehicle and how it plays on contrasts when impregnated with light oil.
Then we compare my result.
And there will be a choice.
Amen.

YoNas_Kaki 16-04-2012 21:38

I didn't give you up! I just wrote that you are busy with witchcraft. And since you are always busy with some kind of witchcraft, I did not say anything new.

And about the willow and juniper, I learned FOR THE FIRST TIME YESTERDAY from our correspondence. Everywhere I read about this method, it was written that sawdust of pine or other conifers.

brek-45 17-04-2012 05:22

yesterday I went to work, the ceramics factory, talked with the technologist, and decided to put a small part of the bars into the drying chamber on Sunday, we will see what happened if it dries and does not tear, I will look for chemistry ANACROL90 and try to stabilize and of course I will try to weld for myself, I decided to put willow bark, salt and larch sawdust, and bark will also be present in sawdust. I also think it is necessary to drive through the dryer after cooking to speed up the process, if not boiled it will dry well and without cod, according to the technologist, it should turn out super because the drying modes of ceramics and wood are similar humidity and high temperature. I don’t know about juniper, but it doesn’t seem to grow with us

brek-45 17-04-2012 20:45

here I managed to file after work, basically cap bars 90x90mm, the longer the better, I don’t know if it’s right or not. Tomorrow I'll put it in the dryer on Sunday I'll see porvetil no.

Shukher 18-04-2012 13:03

I will note the shop beaked.
Temperature regime ba more...

brek-45 18-04-2012 18:15

I know that they have been drying for three days about the temperature tomorrow I will find out for sure I will write, a comrade dried 2 blanks for an ax handle in the winter, the birch bars did not break and dried perfectly. I laid mine today on Sunday, we will know what happened in the evening, I will unsubscribe.

Shukher 26-04-2012 02:26

And I'm still waiting...

brek-45 26-04-2012 05:52

it didn’t work out it broke, everything needs to be cut again and cooked traditionally with salt and sawdust, but there is no time yet, and I decided to wait until the foliage blossoms