How to cover flowers for the winter. Preparing perennial flowers for winter. Old methods of hiding

Winter, as always, comes suddenly. This year too, the frosts came before the snow fell. But it is very difficult to predict what the weather will be like in the next three months. Perhaps the winter will turn out to be little or no snow at all. And this is dangerous because the soil can freeze to a very great depth, thereby destroying most or even the entire root system of most crops. Frosts (a short-term decrease in temperature) in themselves are not dangerous if the snow has not yet fallen: the earth does not have time to freeze. Terrible frosts from minus 13 - 15 degrees, which without snow hold for several days in a row. If the aerial part has adapted to withstand severe cold, then the roots (even in winter-hardy crops) die under such conditions. And if the roots freeze, the plant will no longer be able to recover, including due to root growth.

It is necessary to start sheltering when the soil freezes to a depth of 3 - 5 cm. If you rush, the plants can rot or be affected by a fungal infection. For wintering to be successful, any perennial plant must survive frosts of minus 4 - 7 degrees without shelter. After all, the entire upper, above-ground part works as an indicator that “tells” the root system what is happening up there and what you need to prepare for.

Very often in winter, plants die not so much from severe frosts, but from temperature “swings” during thaws. It is unstable weather with sharp drops that provokes excessive freezing and waterlogging of the soil.

A sheltered plant may also die. After all, shelter is not a panacea, but only one of the methods that help increase the winter hardiness of plants. It is necessary in order to protect plantings from severe frosts, sudden changes in temperature, sunburn, crown breakage from adhering snow, glaciation and withering winds.

The question of how and how to cover plants for the winter is acute for every gardener. There are a lot of special covering materials for plants, but this does not mean that, having wrapped bushes, trees or flowers with a thick layer of dense fabric, you can not worry. Plants, unlike us, are not warm-blooded creatures. And if we can keep warm by putting on a fur coat, then it is useless to wrap them up. In winter, heat comes from the ground, and in order for the shelter to have a comfortable temperature, it is necessary to reduce heat loss due to heat-insulating materials. And the lower the shelter, the warmer it is.

First of all, it is necessary to insulate the plantings of the current year. They are the most vulnerable, because they might not have time to take root properly. Be sure to cover the bristly and near-trunk strips of fruit trees and berry bushes with a thick (15 - 20 cm) layer of humus. When warming the garden, do not forget about the strawberry plantation. Some simply fill it with water, literally freezing garden strawberries into ice. The solution is simple, but unreliable: the first thaw will turn everything into water. You can throw more spruce paws or brushwood on the bed for better retention of snow, or spread non-woven covering material. Such protection will work, and strawberries will be reliably protected in a snowless winter. Raspberries also need to be tied in bunches, which are then bent to the ground so that the bushes do not straighten.

There are many materials that can serve as a winter shelter for plants. And each of them has its pros and cons. An incorrectly chosen protective "cocoon" will lead to the freezing of the root system, the death of plantings and the absence of a crop.

spruce And PINE LAPNIK deservedly considered one of the best covering materials. It not only retains snow perfectly, but also protects against severe frosts, cold winds, sleet and freezing rains, as well as ubiquitous rodents. In addition, spruce branches do not accumulate moisture like leaves and pass air well. It does not increase frost resistance, but under its reliable protection, ideal conditions for wintering plants are created. So not only are temperature fluctuations perfectly smoothed out, but the burning rays of the winter sun also lose their destructive power. And the temperature under it does not fall below minus 5 degrees, even in a thirty-degree frost.

But if there is no forest in the area, then where can I get spruce branches? And one more thing: it is allowed to harvest spruce and pine paws only from already cut down trees located in places of planned logging or sanitary cleaning. Finally, along with spruce branches brought from the forest, it is easy to bring various pests and even infection to your site. Therefore, before stocking up on them, take a closer look at the pines and spruces: are they healthy? If the needle is rusty and yellowed, and the bark is with small black growths and bare areas, then you can’t take such paws - they are sick. The disadvantage of spruce branches is that it is disposable. Yes, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely collect needles that have fallen from spruce branches in the spring. Meanwhile, it increases the acidity of the soil. Yes, in small doses it is not critical. But for calcephilous plants (preferring alkaline soils), even such a minimum will harm.

BRUSHWOOD not so much retains heat as helps to retain snow, which, in fact, serves as protection from frost. It does not interfere with air exchange and does not rot in wet weather. Brushwood is convenient to use in regions with snowy winters. Tightly stacked bundles can be used both as a windbreak and for snow retention. But if the frosts came without snow, there will be little benefit from such a shelter.

Good covering material FALLEN LEAVES. It reliably protects the soil from the cold and serves as an excellent food for earthworms, which, in turn, increase its fertility. But it is in the foliage that mice love to arrange their nests. Moreover, the foliage must be properly prepared. Under no circumstances should wet leaves cover plantings. Dried wet foliage does not allow air to pass through and retains moisture - as a result, the plant dies under it. In frost, it turns into an ice crust, and during thaws it melts. For plants covered in this way, this is certain death. Mold, rot, harmful bacteria, pest larvae - this is an incomplete list of what a foliage shelter can shelter.

Therefore, most often dry leaves are used for plant protection not separately, but as part of a more complex insulating structure. For example, they build a base over a plant - a hut of stakes or boards, fill it with foliage and cover it all with some kind of waterproof material, not forgetting to think over ventilation.

Another disadvantage of using foliage as a covering material is its spring cleaning: a tedious task that takes a lot of time and effort. To avoid this, immediately put the collected dry leaves into mesh bags with small cells (carrots, onions and other vegetables are sold in such bags) and cover the plants directly with these bags. In the spring, in just a few minutes, you will dismantle impromptu shelters.

Good covering material STRAW. It protects well from the cold and retains snow. But, like leaves, it accumulates moisture and gets wet. Straw should be used only dry and be sure to protect it from moisture. If the winter turns out to be warm and damp, under the influence of moisture, loose straw can be compacted, caked, forming layers. Sometimes they rot, rot, are affected by mold. Naturally, for plants covered with such material, this is fraught with big problems. Mice and other small rodents like to nest in straw, pests and plant pathogens (fungi, microbes, viruses) hibernate.

If straw is in excess, and there is no other covering material, then it is better to make straw mats or sheaves from it. They are light and do not put pressure on plants. Under them, the crops remain dry. Yes, it holds up well in cold weather. Water on their surface (according to the principle of a thatched roof) rolls down without getting inside. But in spring, the ground under the straw does not thaw for a long time. Through a layer of straw blanket, the sun's rays cannot reach the soil and warm it up, melting the ice. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the straw shelter as soon as possible.

Also used for winter shelter DRY PLANT STEMS. In essence, this is the same straw with all its advantages and disadvantages. It is only important to consider: not every stem can be used for shelter. It must be dry, healthy (rotten, moldy, diseased cannot be used) and without seeds.

Demanded as a covering material and SACKCLOTH. They tie trunks of young trees with it, shade conifers, protecting them from sunburn, cover roses and other heat-loving plants. Previously, bags were sewn from natural fabrics - now more and more synthetic ones are in use, and even with a polyethylene “lining”. Of course, they protect from water, but the plants under them are deprived of normal air exchange, and this is fraught with decay. However, traditional burlap is also not without flaws. It not only allows moisture to pass through, but also absorbs it. In wet weather, the fabric dries poorly and in frost it turns into an ice shell, which is not at all useful for sheltered plants. Under the damp fabric, a favorable environment is created for the development of rot and mold, and air exchange is disturbed. Together, this can lead to the death of plants.

Most often, old bags are used for shelter, in which vegetables were previously stored. If they were not properly processed, pathogens of various infections could remain on them. And even when storing clean bags in rooms with high humidity, pathogenic microflora sometimes begins to develop on the fabric.

Excellent material for thermal insulation - OPILKI. True, it is not worth completely covering the plant with them: mulching the soil is enough. But wet sawdust cakes and rots. Therefore, they must be laid so that they do not touch the shoots of plants. The smaller the sawdust, the better they absorb moisture. During thaws, raw sawdust is compacted, and in the cold a crust is formed that does not allow air to pass through. Like needles, they are able to influence the acidity of the soil. For some cultures, this can be critical. Like straw, they prevent the soil from warming up, and if your plans do not include delaying the development of plants, such shelter should be removed as soon as possible.

PEAT- a good thermal insulator with certain reservations. Firstly, this is not exactly “material at hand” - if only you had it in stock in advance. Secondly, a full-fledged shelter from it, perhaps, still will not work, but for hilling or mulching it will do just fine. But peat affects the acidity of the soil, therefore, just like needles and sawdust, it is not suitable for all plants. Peat also absorbs moisture well, after which it compacts, losing some of its heat-insulating properties. And if, when sheltering beds with winter crops and plantings with peat, this is not critical, then when hilling perennials, it may turn out to be undesirable.

Appearance NONWOVEN MATERIALS made our life much easier. Agrofibre conditionally protects plants from cold. But it perfectly insures against drying, wind and winter sun, creating a microclimate. It is only necessary to choose a denser material - from 80 g per 1 sq. m. Initially, non-woven materials were developed for countries with warm and little snowy winters. In our harsh winters, when thaws alternate with severe frosts, such shelters must be used very carefully. It may happen that the whole winter the plant will stand in a wet and cold robe. And strong and cold winds and frosts will easily turn it into an ice shell. To avoid all these negative consequences, build a frame on which you will stretch the agrofibre.

CUTTING BOARDS, PIECES OF SLATE, ROOFING, WOODEN BOXES - all this can be used to build winter shelters. To one degree or another, they can retain snow, but still their main function is to serve as a frame. Under this structure, an air layer is preserved that protects the plants from direct contact with the insulation (which can get wet or covered with ice), and this is a plus. But many building materials contain harmful chemicals. And this is already a significant disadvantage. For example, you should not use DSP (cement-bonded particle boards), drywall trim, fiberboard for shelter. Due to the high content of resins, roofing material is also questionable. Some of these materials do not pass not only moisture, but also air. And then the harm from such a shelter may be more than good. As with the use of polyethylene film, the humidity under which increases greatly.

Despite all the advantages of covering materials, the best heat insulator, of course, SNOW. It may seem that there is no benefit to plants from it in winter. It is cold, so it seems that the landing should be cold. But, oddly enough, the snow warms the plants very well. Not by itself, of course. But due to its structure, it does not allow colder air flows to the soil. That is, covering the plants, the snow cools them, but saves them from even more severe cold. Under a thick snow cover, plants endure even the most severe frosts without loss. One problem: this material is very unreliable - it will fall out late, then it will melt in the middle of winter ... If a layer of loose snow lay on the site all winter, one could not worry about shelters.

To increase the effectiveness of protection, it is best to throw snow on plants already covered with foliage, spruce branches or brushwood. Heat is retained better if loose materials are used, and there should be air gaps in the shelter itself. When building a frame, make it low so that the snow can cover it as much as possible. The lower the shelter is located, the warmer it is, since only the earth warms the plants in winter. And so that the wind does not carry snow throughout the site, consider snow retention. To increase the height of the snow cover on the site, place small shields of plywood, boards or plastic wrap around apple trees and beds (especially strawberries).

No matter how ideal insulation in the winter garden is snow, it has its drawbacks. Wet snow is an unreliable shelter. It is covered with a crust, under which plants, without access to air, suffocate, wither and die. To solve this problem, you just need to destroy the crust in time.

As you can see, there is probably no ideal covering material. But we are quite capable of protecting plants from winter cold, sunburn and rodents.

HELP "SB"

In late autumn, in the pre-winter and in snowless frosts, it is dangerous:

Water the plants with warm water;

Fumigate with fires;

Lay unrotted manure, which will raise the temperature of the soil;

Spray "Epin" or "Zircon".

All these activities can wake up plants entering the state of winter dormancy. And then part of the shoots and buds will come out of hibernation. And when it gets cold, it will die immediately.

COUNCIL "SB"

In snowless frosts, it is useful to once again check and strengthen all shelters without exception. Dry frosty weather is usually accompanied by strong winds, which can break even a securely installed frame or blow off the coating. And you need to use every opportunity to protect the site from the drying wind.

FACT

With a snow depth of 1 m or more, the temperature on the soil surface rarely drops below minus 5-7 degrees. Therefore, it is very important that the snow cover is not disturbed and cold air does not penetrate to the ground.

They are called perennial flowers because after the end of the growing season, their root system, and sometimes the aerial part, does not die off. Development only freezes for the time of winter, so that in the spring the plant wakes up and quickly grows.

If in the warm season decorative perennials require minimal care, then with the advent of autumn, the grower needs to think about protecting his green pets from the cold. What it will be depends on the climatic features of the region, as well as on the winter hardiness of the crops grown on the site.

Ways to prepare perennials for winter

To ensure the safety of perennial flowers, you can use:

• crown pruning;
• mulching the soil under the crop;
• insulation of the living above-ground part remaining above the ground.

These activities are most often carried out in a complex, and non-frost-resistant species and most of the bulbous, except for those that bloom in early spring, are dug up and stored until spring in warm or cool dry rooms.

Frost-resistant, herbaceous species are enough to cut off, and sprinkle the soil in the flower bed with a suitable mulch. All nutrients, as well as future growth points for such crops, are underground, so nothing threatens the flowers after mulching and snow cover.

Features of pre-winter pruning of perennials

Since the aerial part of the plants is involved in the accumulation of nutrients for the winter during the warm season, it is better to prune it with the arrival of the first autumn frosts. Such a period in most regions begins in September and ends closer to the second half of October.

What gives pruning perennials? Removing the dead part:

• eliminates the preservation of pest larvae in dry stems;
• reduces the risk of the spread of putrefactive and fungal diseases, including rotting of the root system;
• makes it easier to shelter and mulch flowers for the winter.

The height of pruning depends on the size and structural features of ornamental plants.

Low-growing small plants are cut at ground level; in larger specimens with powerful, often semi-lignified shoots, the lower part of the stems is left. According to them in the spring it will be possible to accurately determine the location of the plant, and in the winter they will additionally retain snow and serve as natural protection.

The most frost-resistant, perennial flowers, for example, leucanthemum, aquilegia, rudbeckia, astilbe and other species, are pruned, leaving no more than 5 cm above the ground from the height of the stems.

And similar tall plants with powerful hollow stems are cut off, leaving at least 25 cm. Otherwise, water entering the stem easily causes rotting of the upper part of the rhizome and death of the flower. In order for plants such as to survive the winter, their full-time leaves are cut to a height of 10 cm a couple of weeks before the onset of cold weather. Curly annual shoots and other similar crops are shortened so that in the shelter during the winter their green parts do not freeze and rot.

How to cover perennial flowers for the winter?

If the aerial part of the perennial does not die off, or the winter hardiness of the species is in doubt, it is better to play it safe and arrange a shelter for such a flower. Depending on the type and size of the plant, protection is done:

• from spruce or pine spruce branches;
• a layer of soil or mulch;
• nonwoven fabric;
• with the help of boxes filled with shavings or other loose, non-moisture mulching material;
• other auxiliary materials that protect flowers from cold air.

On top of the home-made winter huts, they cover it with waterproof material so that water does not accumulate inside the structures, and during the thaw, plants do not rot.

This is done with chrysanthemums, not winter-hardy varieties, climbing flowering plants, which are previously removed from the trellis and bent to the ground sprinkled with mulch. Perennial flowers wintering on alpine hills can be covered not one by one, but together. A dense non-woven material is well suited for this. In order for the protection to be truly high-quality, the edges of the canvas are sprinkled with soil so that it does not move.

Straw and fallen leaves can attract harmful insects and rodents, store and spread fungal and bacterial infections that are dangerous for plants. In addition, the leaves become caked during the winter and contribute to the development of preli. Therefore, it is better to refuse such materials for mulching. As a mulch, experienced flower growers advise using needles, sawdust, soil mixed with humus, and dried shavings.

The most unadapted species to a frosty winter need to be dug up and stored in conditions suitable for a particular crop. Primroses are left in the ground, but they must be thickly mulched and additionally sprinkled with snow in winter.

The thickness of the snow cover on flowerbeds with perennials should be at least 50–80 cm. It is impossible to lower the caking of snow and the formation of a dense continuous crust, otherwise the plants will simply dry out by spring.

Preparing perennials for winter - video

Kirill Sysoev

Calloused hands do not know boredom!

Content

In order for the plants to survive the winter frosts safely, they need to create special shelters in the fall. Certain types of shrubs are so unpretentious that they can winter in open ground without mulching and additional protection from the cold, but most perennials still need to be wrapped. Every gardener should know which perennial flowers need to be covered for the winter and be able to choose the right covering material for plants.

Features of wintering perennials

Flowers are called perennial because after the growing season, their roots, and in some cases the aerial part, do not die off. The development of the plant freezes in winter in order to begin active growth in the spring. According to the type of root system, perennials are divided into:

• bulbous;
• rhizomatous;
• tuber-bulbous;
• tuberous.

In the warm season, the aerial part of the flowers accumulates nutrients for the winter, it is pruned with the arrival of the first frosts, which in most regions of Russia occur at the end of September-October. Pruning perennial bushes is needed to:

The height of pruning depends on the structure and height of ornamental plants. Low-growing small bushes are cut off at ground level, in more powerful specimens with strong, semi-lignified branches, the lower part of the shoots is left intact. With their help in the spring it will be possible to accurately locate the bush / flower, and in the winter they will serve to additionally hold snow, which will be a natural protection against freezing. The most winter-hardy perennials, for example, aquilegia, nivyanik, rudbeckia, astilbes, are pruned, leaving no more than 5 cm of stems above the soil.

Delphiniums and other tall plants with strong hollow stems are cut to 25 cm, otherwise water entering the branches will cause rotting of the upper part of the rhizome and destroy the culture. For irises, preparations are also made for winter: full-time leaves are cut to a height of 10 cm 2 weeks before the onset of cold weather. Curly annual shoots of clematis and similar crops are shortened so that their green parts do not freeze or rot in the shelter. Care for each perennial flower depends on the characteristics of the region and its winter hardiness.

What flowers to cover for the winter

The time when it is time to insulate heat-loving perennials should be judged by the weather in a particular region. It is not recommended to do this early, because in October (after the first serious cooling), very warm weather sometimes sets in. Then the prematurely wrapped flower can rot. Garden soil and mulch should be added to perennial plants while the soil is still loose, and cut shoots should be covered with spruce branches, straw and film after the onset of stable cold weather.

Roses

Inexperienced gardeners are wondering "do I need to cover roses for the winter?". Since cultivars of flowers often freeze out, they must be wrapped up during the cold season. Probably, rose bushes are not adapted to too much cold, but often weak winter shelter is to blame for their freezing. Preparation of bush plants for wintering depends on the group to which the flower belongs. For example, hybrid tea varieties of roses and certain types of climbing ones are considered the most tender.

Is it possible not to cover roses for the winter in a temperate climate? If the winter season in your region is relatively warm, while the thermometer does not drop below -10, then miniature roses and floribundas can not be wrapped - they normally tolerate cold. Among the park varieties, there are even "walruses" that do not need to be insulated even with more severe frosts. However, if you do not know what types of roses grow in your area, it is better to cover them for the winter, thanks to which you will save the bushes from excess moisture and create a stable microclimate without sudden temperature changes.

It is necessary to prepare roses for winter from the end of August, when the bushes stop watering and feeding with nitrogen fertilizers. In September, they refuse to loosen the soil so as not to prematurely wake up the buds that are still “sleeping” and not stimulate the growth of new shoots. All rose bushes, with the exception of park and climbing ones, are pruned, which is carried out approximately at the height where the top of the future shelter ends. Leaves and branches that did not have time to ripen and have a light green color are cut off, and lignified ones are cut shorter.

Before covering roses for the winter, they are treated with Bordeaux liquid or 3% iron sulfate. Fallen leaves, grass, and debris are raked out under each bush to prevent the development of spores of pathogenic fungi. After processing, each bush is planted to a height of about 20 cm, which improves the ability of the roots to “breathe”. In winter, soft soil holds air better, preventing the root system from freezing.

Hilling and pruning help the culture to endure frost more easily and avoid fungal diseases. They begin to prepare roses for shelter from mid-October or later, after the completion of the first frost and the establishment of a stable sub-zero temperature (about 5-6 degrees). Weak frosts are not terrible for roses: thanks to them, the shoots are hardened and finally ripen. It is impossible to cover the bushes prematurely, as new branches may begin to grow due to an increase in temperature, and the roots will dry out due to lack of air.

Before warming roses for the winter, you should wait for dry weather, so that during cold weather the soil will maintain moderate moisture and the risk of developing fungal diseases will be reduced to a minimum. With any type of shelter chosen, the gardener must leave an air layer between the bush and the insulation. This is important because roses, as a rule, do not freeze out in winter, but rot or get wet during the prolonged February thaws due to the material tightly covering the plant, which disrupts the normal supply of oxygen.

Experienced gardeners advise covering crops in an air-dry way. It provides the plants with a relatively stable air temperature (from 0 to -4 degrees) and provides good aeration. The work on creating an air-dry shelter has the following sequence:

• a metal frame about 60 cm high is being built, which is installed around the bush;
• insulation (glassine, hydro-insulating paper or cardboard shields) is laid out on top of the frame and fixed with twine;
• the shelter must be covered with plastic wrap, which will serve as a waterproofing;
• the bottom of the film should be sprinkled with soil.

Bulbous

What perennial flowers should be covered for the winter? Most small-bulbous crops such as blueberries, muscars, hazel grouses, snowdrops, herbaceous peonies, crocuses, daylilies do not shelter for the winter, because they are winter-hardy and easily tolerate frosts. Flowers planted before mid-September have time to take root well and do not freeze out during the winter. However, later rooting seedlings require topsoil mulching.

Winter-hardy Dutch bulbous plants planted in autumn (tulips, lilies, daffodils, phloxes, primroses) are recommended to be protected with spruce branches, which will protect the flower not only from the cold, but also from mice who like to feast on bulbs. From above, it is better to cover the spruce branches with a film and cut shoots of perennials (that is, a dry shelter is formed). It is not recommended to cover the flowers with straw for the winter, as this will create excellent conditions for the reproduction of mice. An important condition for the wintering of all bulbous plants is the unflooding of the landing site by spring waters.

rhizomatous

In autumn, plant growth stops, while in some herbaceous crops the ground part dies. Dried foliage and stems are cut off so that fungi do not develop in them. Other rhizomatous perennial flowers, in which leaves remain green after frost (bergenia, iris, hellebore), are not subjected to full, but only partial pruning. Wintering greens they need in the spring for development. An example of shelters for common perennial rhizomatous flowers:

1. Aquilegia (catchment). In October, leaves and stems are cut almost to the base (5-7 cm remain above the ground). Aquilegia hibernates without shelter, but its bare roots must be covered with humus, plain earth or peat.
2. Astilbe. Young rooted flowers can winter without warming, but they are still prepared for winter by cutting off the ground dry part in late autumn and filling the roots with peat / humus (optimal layer - 5 cm). Old plantings of astilba are covered with dry leaves and film so that the leaves do not decay due to precipitation.
3. Asters. Perennial asters are pruned to the base (stumps 5-10 cm tall remain). It is necessary to cover the plant for the winter in dry weather, while the roots are covered with dry leaves, humus, covered with spruce branches. Perennial asters are able to winter without shelter, but weakened by late flowering, they will give fewer shoots next season.
4. Badan. The roots of the plant winter well without shelter under a layer of snow. Nevertheless, so that the snowdrifts are not blown away by the wind on a hill, it is necessary to build a shelter from dry branches.

Covering material for the winter for plants

When the ground parts of perennial flowers die off or in cases where you are not sure about the frost resistance of a plant, it is better to cover it for the winter. Taking into account the size and type, to protect flowers use:

1. Spruce / pine spruce branches. Needle branches are available material in forest regions. Lapnik does not get wet, provides an additional air layer, perfectly holds snow, which protects plants from frost. In addition, the thorns repel rodents, so spruce branches are especially valued for sheltering young seedlings. In early spring, the material protects the plant from sunburn. The disadvantage of spruce branches is that it oxidizes the soil, while some plants prefer an alkaline environment. Sometimes the needles get sick and branches with bloom can infect healthy flowers, so the spruce branches are carefully examined before use.
2. A layer of mulch or soil. Peat is effective for spudding the soil in near-stem circles in order to protect the roots from frost, but it will not become a full-fledged heater. In addition, the soil is not suitable for all crops, since it acidifies the soil and actively absorbs moisture, which makes it compact and protects the flowers from the cold worse.
3. Shavings, sawdust. They only need to mulch the soil. Like needles, they serve as oxidizing agents - this fact should also be taken into account in accordance with the characteristics of the bush / flower. before mulching the ground, the sawdust is thoroughly dried so that they do not get wet during the winter, they are covered with polyethylene on top. The disadvantage of this method is that sawdust can be banned.
4. Non-woven material. Spunbond or agrofibre is made from plypropylene - the material is durable, lightweight, easy to use, protects well from frost, freely passing air. However, it will not cope with severe frosts, therefore it is not suitable for regions with an unstable climate. In addition, spunbond forms a humid microclimate, so it must be fixed on frames to avoid contact with shoots.
5. Bag. Rough, dense fabric is used to cover the trunks of young bushes and heat-loving perennials. A burlap cover is not the best method of protection from the cold, because it gets wet, and in frost it freezes, resembling an ice dome. It is recommended to use such covering material exclusively new in order to avoid the appearance of harmful microbes on the bushes.
6. Lutrasil. Non-woven material is made from polypropylene, it is combined with other covering agents, since it cannot protect perennials from temperatures below -7 degrees. Lutrasil is highly breathable, perfectly transmits light, prevents harm caused by insects and birds.
7. Straw. She covers gardens with winter plantings and is used to protect perennial flowers. During rains, the straw must be protected with polyethylene. Dry grass perfectly retains snow, but mice like to nest in it, which harm plants. In addition, the flowers under the straw sometimes die.

air shelters

Insulation of plants for the winter is necessary in order to prevent the harm caused by sudden changes in temperature. Air cushions save from such misfortune. To create them, use lutrasil or film. A rack tripod is installed around perennial flowers, and a cover made of non-woven material is put on top. The disadvantage of covering with lutrasil / film is the risk of dispute or overheating of plants during a snowless winter. Then the flowers wake up ahead of time and soon die from low temperatures.

To avoid the death of crops, gardeners build a “stool”-type shelter with transparent walls through which light penetrates well and a dark top that protects against overheating. This option is ideal for rhododendrons and coniferous varieties. To form insulation, pegs are inserted into the ground around the bush, on top of which a plywood shield is placed. The structure is covered with a film, burying the edges into the ground, while the shoots should not come into contact with the shelter.

Air dry shelters

In addition to air, a layer of sawdust, dry leaves, hay is used as a heater. Supports-blocks are installed around the flowers, a boardwalk is made on top, which is covered with soil mixed with dry material. All this is covered with plastic wrap. The sun's rays do not penetrate into such a shelter of plants for the winter, however, the temperature is always kept at the same level, optimal for perennial crops. Air-dry heaters are suitable for plants that are hard to tolerate frost - yucca, deciduous rhododendrons, gingo, etc.

Video

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What perennial flowers need to be covered for the winter - how to choose the right material and method of insulation

The autumn season has come to an end, but there is still a lot of work left in the garden, including the preparation of heat-loving crops for the winter. Increasingly, exotic plants can be found in gardens and vegetable gardens. The trend towards breeding such crops is due to availability, a huge selection of seeds, and modern equipment. Despite the fact that many species from warm, exotic countries have hybrids adapted to our climate, such crops still need winter protection. Today we will analyze in detail how to properly insulate fruit trees, shrubs, flowers for the winter.

Why hide?

The purpose of sheltering trees, etc. for the winter is not only to protect plants from extreme cold, by sheltering crops for the winter, you provide protection against return warming in the autumn-winter period. It happens that after stable frosts, a thaw suddenly occurs, after warming frosts come again, but the bark, the top layer of wood has melted. With repeated freezing, cracks appear as a result, which in turn will lead to disease of the culture and even death.

Shelter will protect plantings from rodents, help plants that are planted in autumn take root, protect against burns, since ultraviolet reflected from snow can cause one. Also, the event is directed against weathering, the so-called winter drought.

Preparing the garden for winter

Before preparing, you need to clarify which plants need to be covered and with what. Not every heater is the same. It is more expedient to prepare the garden for the dormant period ahead of time; they begin to prepare trees from the middle of summer. This consists in the fact that they stop applying nitrogen fertilizers, since they provoke the active growth of root shoots and shoots. Uncontrolled vegetation will inevitably weaken the culture. From the second half of August, they fertilize (if necessary) exclusively with potash and phosphorus additives, ash.

Autumn watering is very important. Before wintering, the soil must be sufficiently moistened, trees (especially conifers) continue to evaporate moisture from cells almost until the middle of winter, dry soil will aggravate the situation, the tree may simply dry out. In addition, it is vital (for plants) to perform pruning. As a rule, sanitary, but there are crops for which it is necessary to trim the forming crown in the autumn.

In addition to fruit trees, flowers and shrubs need to be prepared for the winter, they also need sanitization. Clean flower beds, mixborders, rockeries and other flower beds from dead vegetation, weeds and their roots, and other clogging. This also applies to berries. Don't forget about proper soil preparation. It is necessary to dig, disinfect from fungi and pests, nourish.

When to start warming up?

In warm climatic zones, as a rule, they cover not so much from the cold as to protect against rodents (rabbits, hares, mice, voles, etc.). In snowy, but warm regions to save snow. Warming is required only for tropical, subtropical plants, for which even light frosts are fatal.

In regions with a temperate climate, the event begins in the second decade of October; during a long autumn, the deadline is postponed to a later time. In any case, shelter is produced after daytime temperatures stop rising above -10-15oC. The procedure is mainly aimed at protection from frost, burns, weathering, rodents.

In the regions of the north, shelter begins during the period of stable cold weather, the start time for warming can be different, here they also focus on air temperature, similar to the previous option.

In any case, you can not cover the landing before the onset of real frost. Warming is removed only when the night temperature rises to at least + 5oC, usually this is mid-March and the end of April. A sharp temperature drop inside the trunk will damage the bark and top layer of wood. As a result, pests can settle in the cracks, fungal diseases, viruses can form.

Pulling with the removal of heaters is also not worth it, since culture can forbid. As a rule, such trees die, especially for young plants.

Shelter rules for the winter

It is necessary to construct insulation in such a way that air circulates in it. A dense airtight coating will provoke the growth of fungi (mold, phytophthora, etc.). When protecting trees with mesh, wooden structures, please note that the lower branches should not touch such structures.

The procedure is carried out in several stages, accustoming the plant to a lack of light, in the future its complete absence. A tree should be absolutely closed only when it is completely immersed in a state of rest.

Root warming by means of hilling

In areas with a sharply continental, contrasting climate, the method of preserving the root system by hilling is common and most expedient. This procedure is carried out for perennial flowering crops, young trees, plants with a superficial root net. The event stabilizes the temperature in the root zone, thereby saving the kidneys in the near-earth part of the tree.

Hilling is carried out after the onset of cold weather, when the earth grabs a couple of centimeters with a frosty crust. Starting the event earlier, there is a risk of dehydration of the surface layer of the soil, the trunk in the lower part will begin to be covered with condensate (dew) from the evaporation of the earth, which will lead to excessive moistening of the bark, water penetration into the micropores. When frozen overnight, moisture expands, thereby damaging the plant.

They spud the root neck, the near-trunk part of the tree. They rake the earth into a mound with a height of ten centimeters or more, it all depends on the height of the trunk. Be careful and careful not to damage the roots. If the soil is not enough, then take part of the land from the garden. With the onset of heat, the embankment is removed in layers as the earth warms up.

In addition to fruit trees, garden flowers also spud. These types include:

• Tea, hybrid roses;
• Chrysanthemums;
• Eremurus and other heat-loving individuals;
• Mulch.

Covering garden plants with mulch is also important. This is necessary primarily for garden flowers, in which the roots are located superficially.

It is worth noting that when using this method of warming the roots, there is no point in digging and hilling the earth around the culture, since mulch will act as this. Also take into account that not every material is suitable in this capacity, for example, oak leaves, like walnut, are unacceptable, refrain from mulching with needles, fresh sawdust, shavings. Such substances will oxidize the soil, and most garden plants prefer a neutral or slightly alkaline environment.

The following components are ideal as a material for mulching:

• horse peat
• Compost from autumn leaves (without chlorophyll).
• The bark of a small fraction.
• Foliage of fruit and park trees - poplar, birch, apple, chestnut, elm, maple and similar trees.
• Sawdust at the stage of decay, rotted, half-rotten.
• Humus will be the most ideal solution.

Before starting mulching, make a sandy, earthy side around the trunk with a diameter of one meter and a height of fifteen centimeters. Then fill it with mulch. The coating must not come into direct contact with the trunk of the tree. Around it (the trunk), pour a sandy pile with a height of twenty centimeters, the sand must be dry. This is due to the fact that wet mulch, in contact with the bark, can cause the processes of decay, mold formation. Harmful insects, their larvae and eggs, can also settle down for the winter in this part of the shelter.

There is another important aspect - autumn rains, snow melting during thaws will inevitably lead to wetting of the mulch layer. Instead of protecting the planting from frost, the mulch will turn into a frozen lump and only harm the crop. In this regard, take care of a waterproof coating. The edges of the material must be pressed down with stones, dug in with earth from gusts of wind.

Aerial artificial shelters

In addition to natural materials with which lawns, flower beds, and other garden plants are insulated, more advanced, but expensive shelters can be used. The agricultural market offers a lot of similar products. Among the variety of items, one can especially distinguish jute, agricultural fiber (cloth), agrotex, spunbond, lutrasil. Budget option - burlap, tarpaulin.

There are several ways of air shelter:

• 1 Free swaddling plants.
• 2 Application of ready-made covers.
• 3 Dry air shelter.
• 4 Bend to the ground.

The first two options are used for warming young trees, both coniferous, ornamental and fruit trees. Flowering shrubs, heat-loving berry crops are also warmed by the method of free swaddling and the use of ready-made covers. The method consists in the construction of a hut-type shelter, wrapping with heat-insulating materials. The meaning of such a procedure is to block the early awakening of culture. From the end of February, active solar radiation begins, photosynthesis is activated in trees under its influence, in turn, the process implies moisture consumption, but it is impossible at this time. The result of such an impact will be the drying of the crown. Among other things, air shelter will protect juveniles from sunburn and weathering.

In the regions of the north, with a sharply continental climate, a frame (air-dry) shelter is being built. A frame of a conical, triangular, cubic or rounded shape is being built. The frame can be made from any material at hand, with the exception of iron. It must be understood that the snowdrifts that form during the winter, gusts of wind can destroy the structure, so the strength must match.

• tarpaulin;
• spruce branches;
• burlap;
• old blankets;
• rags;
• bundles (sheaves) of straw and so on.

The second layer is covered with a waterproof, windproof material. Both cellophane and roofing felt (roofing material) between the layers, the presence of an air cushion is necessary!

• Weigela.
• Wisteria.
• Hydrangea.
• Blackberry.
• Honeysuckle.
• Clematis.
• Codonopsis.
• Lemongrass.
• Raspberries.
• Some varieties of currant.
• Climbing rose.
• Rhododendron.
• Varieties of European grapes.
• Forsythia.

These plants need warming by bending down. This is not the whole list of this kind of crops, a list of only the most common plants is presented. Before bending down the landing, take care of the bedding. The fact is that bent plants should not come into contact with the ground, otherwise the ground moisture will provoke rotting processes, mold and other fungi will form. After that, they cover with any insulation that protects from rain and wind. In winter, they pile up snow (subject to insufficient snow cover).

Here are the basic methods and rules for sheltering garden plants for the winter. It may seem to someone that the process is rather laborious and some of the conditions can be ignored. Such an approach is unacceptable, otherwise you may not see a good harvest and harvest at all.

The issues of plant conservation in winter are very important. Most of their deaths occur in winter or spring. Recently, many new species and varieties of plants have appeared on the market, usually bred and grown in a warmer climate, and their life is impossible for us without shelter for the winter, at least in the first years after planting.

Many plants need protection in winter.

To assess the cold hardiness of plants, many companies indicate USDA zones. According to this classification, in central Russia and in the North-West, without shelter, it is possible to reliably grow plants belonging to zones 3-4, plants of the 5th zone need to be covered for the winter, and the 6th zone does not always hibernate even under cover.

Assessing the possibilities of growing plants in a certain climate, it is more correct to speak not only about cold resistance, but about winter hardiness in general, since death can be associated not only with low temperatures, but also with the spread of diseases due to dampness, with burns and other adverse conditions, which are often denoted by one word "frozen". The ability of plants to recover after freezing is also very important.

The ability of plants to survive in winter, in addition to the biological characteristics of specific species and varieties, is influenced by many factors:

features of the weather conditions of the current year; climatic features of the area and even a specific site; age of plants; their condition.

After evaluating all this, in each chosen case, it is necessary to decide on the issue of winter shelter individually.

The most important facts about winter shelter of plants You can offer many specific ways to shelter and use various materials, but it is more correct to understand the possibilities and dangers of different types of shelters and create your own system for preparing plants for winter and their shelter, taking into account local characteristics and your capabilities.

When deciding what and how to cover, you need to remember the following:

1. Plants are not warm-blooded creatures, and it is useless to “dress” them.

Heat in winter comes only from the ground, and in order to increase the temperature in the shelter, you need to reduce heat loss with the help of thermal insulation materials. The lower the shelter, the warmer it is. The use of various covers, wrapping plants directly on a support (for example, climbing roses) can protect against burns, wind, but not from cold.

If the plants were covered with a loose layer of snow all winter, they would not need other shelters.

2. The main heat-insulating material in our conditions is snow.

If a loose layer of snow lay all winter, most of the plants grown in our country could winter without shelter. All shelters must be made in such a way that they are evenly covered with snow, which means that they would not be too high, they would not have peaks that prevent the ground from being covered with snow.

3. Materials containing air retain heat very well.

Therefore, shelters must contain air gaps, and insulating materials must be loose.

4. The main reason for the death of plants in shelters is the development of diseases in conditions of increased dampness.

Therefore, it is necessary to fight infection on sheltered plants, make shelters drier, be sure to provide for their ventilation in late autumn and spring, and prevent water from flowing into them.

You can find everything you need to cover plants for the winter in our catalog, which combines the offers of large garden online stores. Select cover materials.

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Now consider the different types of shelters and the features of their application.

MulchingMulching is covering the surface of the earth with loose material in order to reduce heat transfer and better preserve the root system. It is used on almost all plants, but it is especially important for plants with a superficial or insufficiently cold-resistant root system and for bulbs. For mulching, you can use humus, peat, sawdust, fallen leaves and other materials.

Rhododendron, mulched with peat, with coarse sand protecting the neck. Author's photo

Particular attention should be paid to shrubs with a neck prone to warming. It is usually advised not to mulch the area immediately adjacent to the trunks, but in practice it is very difficult to do this, rains and melting snow still move the mulch to the trunks. In this case, backfilling the neck area with coarse sand with a small hill at the trunk helps. Sand well protects the neck and bark in the lower part of the trunks from underheating and decay throughout the year.

Covering plants with fallen leaves is a very common recommendation. But it must be borne in mind that a layer of dried leaves, covered on dry ground, has good heat-insulating properties, and wet, caked leaves only contribute to rotting. This is especially dangerous for plants with overwintering rosettes, such as Korean chrysanthemums, so this method of shelter is not suitable for them, especially in damp climates.

Hilling Hilling up plants for the purpose of warming is adding earth or other loose material: peat, sawdust, etc. to the base of the bush. A layer of material 10-40 cm high increases the temperature in the area of ​​the root collar and allows you to save the buds present here. It is used on various types of plants, in particular, on hydrangeas, clematis, roses, but hilling is dangerous for many plants, as it leads to the decay of the bark in the neck area.

In areas with a more continental climate, where there is a sharp border of cooling, it is recommended to hill most plants after the establishment of frost and freezing of the soil surface. In an unstable climate (in particular, in the Northwest), the establishment of winter is indefinite, and the hilling of trees and shrubs that are prone to overheating is unacceptable. This applies, for example, to ornamental and fruit cherries and plums. It is impossible to hill roses after the formation of frost holes on them, as this leads to the penetration of infection through the cracks formed.

Hilling and bending down a serrated hydrangea, photo by the author

Crouching Very often we grow shrubs whose above-ground part is not cold-hardy enough - for example, shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots and lay flower buds in autumn. An effective and very simple method of preserving such plants is to bend them down and then cover them with snow. You can strengthen the plants in a horizontal position by tying them to pegs driven into the ground or by securing them with a wire shackle (it is convenient to use commercially available wire stands with rings to support the bushes).

It is better to bend the plants not to the very ground or place gratings, boards under them so that the branches do not rot when in contact with damp ground. You need to bend down before the onset of frost, until the wood has become too brittle. Often inclined plants are additionally covered with non-woven material. Be sure to tilt climbing and shrub roses, large-leaved hydrangeas, weigels, etc. In the spring, the bushes must be raised before new shoots begin to grow, otherwise they will bend.

Air-dry shelter The most reliable shelter for heat-loving plants, but also the most time-consuming - air-dry shelter. It consists of a strong frame that can withstand the weight of snow (usually not more than 60 cm), an insulating layer and a moisture-proof layer.

The frame can be made of thick wire, a wooden box, a shield placed on supports, in the simplest case, you can put a board on two logs. The heat-insulating and at the same time shading material can be lutrasil (spunbond) or panels sewn from old fabric, and any: synthetic, woolen, cotton. Moisture insulating layer - transparent or black polyethylene film, roofing material. The silvery film sold as mulch is very good: it is opaque, but does not heat up like black. When using a transparent film without shading in the spring, the shelter turns into a greenhouse, and the plants overheat.

The main problem with covering with film is dampness. You can ensure dryness in the shelter in the following way. Remove weeds, fallen leaves, etc. from the shelter; cut off all the leaves from the sheltered plants; pre-dry the flower garden by making a film roof over it, or cover the entire surface with dry earth (for example, from a dried greenhouse); use only dry materials.

Roses covered with a polyethylene roof to dry. Late September - early October, photo by the author

It is imperative to make air ducts for ventilation, they can be covered tightly with a film when frost sets in, or you can leave them covered with several layers of lutrasil for the whole winter to provide a little ventilation during thaws and in spring.

The timing of shelter depends on the characteristics of the plants. So, heat-loving hydrangeas can be covered from the beginning of October, after the start of systematic frosts, and roses - only from the end of October, since earlier shelter requires that they be cut earlier, and this can cause autumn growth of shoots and their subsequent death. But to wait for the establishment of frost to start shelter, as many manuals recommend, I consider it very harmful. Usually, a cold snap is accompanied by snow, which makes it difficult to cover roses, and with proper shelter and the presence of roses, roses will never be propped up. I have been covering roses and hydrangeas in this way for over 25 years, and in all weather conditions they have kept very well, and over the years the temperature has dropped below -40 degrees twice.

Air-dry hydrangea cover. The bottom layer is thick lutrasil, the top layer is a silvery film. Vent open for ventilation. Author's photo

Air-dry shelter requires timely and gradual cleaning in the spring. When the snow melts from the shelter, you need to open the vents, then remove the film, and finally remove the entire shelter only after the ground has completely thawed. Shelter of roses and hydrangeas using the air-dry method, as well as other shelter options, are discussed in detail in my book Roses and Hydrangeas in the North-West of Russia.

Air-dry shelter The difficulties of air-dry shelter force us to look for an alternative to it. It is usually suggested to use spruce or pine spruce or a combination thereof with a nonwoven material. But to make a good shelter, you need a lot of spruce branches. It is almost impossible to buy it, and independent extraction of spruce branches in the forests causes them great harm, and there are almost no forests around our gardens.

Air "wet" shelter using plastic boxes and lutrasil, photo by the author

The meaning of such a shelter is that an air layer is preserved around the plant, but the plant is not isolated from moisture and can get wet and dry, constantly being ventilated. It is important that the plant does not press tightly to the ground. Best of all, such a shelter is obtained if a dense non-woven material is placed on a low support (it may not be as strong as in the previous method) in 1-2 layers.

The support is easy to make by laying the slats on bricks or logs. You can use lattice plastic boxes for vegetables. Such a shelter for cuttings gives a very good effect. The cuttings do not cling to the ground, do not rot and winter very well.

Air-"wet" shelter cuttings, drawing by the author

When covering chrysanthemums or phloxes in this way (in a frosty snowless autumn), I use the remains of their stems sticking out after pruning as a support, and I cover them with a cloth or thick lutrasil. The terms of shelter and spring opening with this method are not critical, plants can be under such shelter in any weather.

Protection of rhododendrons and conifers in the winter-spring period In our gardens, we mainly grow cold-resistant rhododendrons and conifers, but they often winter poorly. This is not due to freezing, but to “burning”, warming up or drying out.

The shelter of such plants differs from that discussed above, it is important to shade them, protect them from the wind, break off the branches with snow. When sheltering evergreens, it is generally very dangerous to use a film, and even dense lutrasil sometimes causes the needles to warm up. In most cases, I use specially sewn covers made of light-colored fabric (for example, from old sheets).

Cypress covered with a fabric cover, photo by the author

I select covers according to the size of the plants, which at the same time serves as a harness for them. Near the plant I put a stick above it or a hut of three sticks (on spherical plants) and put a cover on them, fix it with a rope. Sticks make the shelter cone-shaped, contribute to uniform snow cover, do not allow snow to press the top of the plant.

You can cover evergreens with boxes, but they must have gaps, and only the roof needs to be covered with polyethylene. It is good to place pieces of wood or latticed plastic boxes under creeping conifers so that the snow does not press them to the ground. Plants are usually fired in early spring, but it is important to shade them since autumn, as it is difficult to do this accurately and in a timely manner in spring. It is necessary to remove shading only after the earth has completely thawed, in cloudy weather.

To sum up: Plants are usually covered not in one way, but in a combination of several. For example, climbing roses spud, tilt, and then cover.

Plants die from the wrong, not too good, warm shelter. Once again, I want to emphasize that the warmest shelter is obtained when using a film, since it does not allow warm air rising from the ground to leave the shelter. But it is very important to observe the following rules:

lay the film only on supports, preferably on lutrasil; avoid contact of the film with plants; do not cover plants with leaves, on damp ground; ventilate and remove shelters in time.

Be sure to dry the flower garden that you are going to cover using a film. Author's photo

If it is impossible to comply with all the rules, it is better to completely abandon the film. The effectiveness of the shelter strongly depends not only on the climate of a particular place, but also on the weather of the coming winter, and this is impossible to predict. Therefore, it is necessary to shelter in such a way as to improve wintering conditions in any possible weather. I always ask myself the question: “How will the shelter I conceived behave in this or that weather?”

The main principle: "Do no harm!"

Growing a wide range of plants, especially in the northern regions, it is impossible to do without their shelter at all. It is important to choose more resistant species and varieties, observe optimal agricultural practices and, above all, do not overfeed plants with nitrogen fertilizers (completely exclude nitrogen from fertilizing from August!), fight diseases and pests in a timely manner, and observe planting dates, especially autumn. All this will reduce the work of shelter to a minimum.

You may also be interested in publications:

5 common myths about winter shelter for plantsPerennial shelter for the winter. Is it necessary? .. 10 improvised materials for winter shelter of plants How to prepare a garden for winter: traditions and misconceptions Are you ready for the cold? Choosing materials for winter shelter of plantsMistakes in preparing the garden for winter. Sheltering plantsWho should be sheltered? Plants that refuse to overwinter without shelter