Cabbage leaves are curling, what should I do? Cabbage leaves curl. Lack of mineral nutrients and excess sun

Residents of Russia became acquainted with cauliflower back in the 17th century, appreciating its taste and beneficial features– low-calorie, preventive effect, high content of proteins, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, vitamins C, B and PP, compatibility with a variety of products.

The vegetable became a permanent resident of Russians’ gardens and received “personal” enemies – characteristic diseases and pests. But, knowing them by sight and why this happens, every gardener can easily cope with them and reap a bountiful harvest.

Description of cauliflower diseases and methods of combating them

White rot

A fungal disease that is most dangerous when storing crops in rooms with high air humidity. Cauliflower becomes covered with a white “cotton wool-like” coating, rotting completely and infecting neighboring vegetables through direct contact. The main symptom is mucus on the leaves of ripe heads of cabbage.

The main methods of combating “white rot” are compliance with crop rotation (3-4 years), temperature regime in storage (from 0 to +1 degrees) and its disinfection (shelves can be wiped with a solution of potassium permanganate 0.5-1%), preventing mechanical damage to heads of cabbage, cutting off infected parts and timely harvesting.

Kila

The most common fungal disease all types of cauliflower, damaging root system and forming growths on it that interfere with growth. The plant begins to wither and die. Manifests itself in the form of yellowing and wilting of leaves, death of seedlings. Soil with high humidity and acidity.

Plants that are sick with clubroot are not treated, completely destroying and treating the area with formaldehyde (Bordeaux mixture, 1% Fundazol solution), without planting cabbage on it for 5-7 years. The beds are carefully hilled up and weeded of cruciferous weeds, watering abundantly. Before planting, as a preventative measure, it is recommended to lim the soil, and during growth - root watering with dolomite solution (1 cup of flour per 10 liters of water).

Blackleg

The fungus infects cauliflower seedlings and young shoots, the lower part of the stem and root stalk become dark in color, rot and become thin. The disease is infectious in nature, and before the plant dies, it infects surrounding shoots. The reason may be sudden temperature changes, high humidity and acidity of the soil, “saturation” of the soil with nitrogen fertilizers and fungus remaining in it, excessive sowing density.

You can avoid the appearance of “black leg” by cultivating the soil with 1% warm solutions of potassium permanganate, potassium permanganate or “Fitosporin”, fertilize the area with TMTD or “Cumulus DF” before sowing, treat the seeds with “Granosan” (“Fundazol”, “Planriz”) . Sick plants should be promptly removed and the soil should be shed with potassium permanganate.

Fusarium wilt

The disease can destroy up to 1/4 of the crop; early varieties of cauliflower are at risk. The leaves wither, turn yellow and fall off, leaving a bare stem with a barren crown. The cause is the fungus itself, for a long time heat soil (15-17 degrees) and insufficient watering.

Fusarium wilt cannot be treated; infected plants are removed along with the rhizome, the soil is treated with solutions of manganese or copper sulfate (5 grams per 10 liters).

Gray rot

The disease manifests itself in the form of a gray “cotton-wool-like” coating and is most dangerous during storage of the harvested crop. Frostbitten or injured areas of cauliflower are affected, mucus and areas of rot appear. The risk of infection is particularly high during long periods of wet weather.

You can protect the crop and prevent the appearance of “gray rot” by maintaining temperature conditions for storage and disinfecting premises (as in the case of “white rot”).

Mosaic

An untreatable disease that causes black spots to appear on cauliflower and leaves to curl. Infected plants are uprooted and destroyed.

The carriers of the “mosaic” can be insects and weeds, so the main means of protection have become the fight against them and regular inspection of neighboring plants to prevent the spread of infection.

Downy mildew (Peronosporosis)

White-yellow spots appear on diseased plants (sometimes acquiring a red tint). The leaves die, the cauliflower grows poorly and dies.

The causative agents of peronosporosis are located on the seed coat, so the seeds are treated before planting (placed in 50-degree water for 20 minutes, then in cold water for 3 minutes). Vegetables in the beds must be sprayed with Bordeaux solution (polycarbocin, Planriz).

Mucous bacteriosis (Wet bacterial rot)

The disease can develop at all stages of growth and storage of cauliflower, in which the head rots. In other cases, the root leg of the vegetable is affected. The reasons are violation of crop rotation rules, excess nutrition with nitrogen fertilizers, pests and long wet periods of weather.

They protect themselves from mucous bacteriosis by observing crop rotation, fight pests and weeds during the season, the roots of the seedlings are treated with “Phytobacteriomycin”, the storage facilities are properly prepared and the storage regime is followed, open ground spilled with a solution of colloidal sulfur (0.4%).

Vascular bacteriosis (Black rot)

All stages of vegetable growth are also susceptible to the disease, and it manifests itself in the form of yellowing (in the shape of an angle) of the edges of the leaves. Subsequently, they disappear, and the cauliflower stops developing and loses its taste qualities. In addition to pests, pathogenic bacteria can be carried by rain.

To protect against vascular bacteriosis, they adhere to crop rotation (3-4 years), the seeds are treated with Agat-25 or Fitolavin. It also treats the seedlings, and at the first signs of disease, the plants are sprayed with Planriza solution. You can also use “Binoram”, which is used for root watering of seedlings.

Description of cauliflower pests and methods of controlling them

Slugs

The abundance of slugs (snails without shells) is explained by their fecundity and omnivorous nature. Moisture-loving pests bite into cauliflower and can destroy the entire crop.

It’s easy to fight them; you just need to collect them in time. You can organize “baits” from pieces of wood or wet rags, under which they will gather as the day approaches. They also tear off the lower leaves and dig wet grooves around the plant, covered with wood ash or mustard.

cabbage aphid

Small, about 2 millimeters, pests are able to “suck out” cauliflower due to their abundance and fertility (several generations per season). The leaves of the plant become discolored, may turn pink, curl, and the heads are not fully formed.

In order to prevent cabbage aphid larvae from developing, the tops and cruciferous weeds are destroyed in a timely manner, and when they appear, it is recommended to treat the beds with Decis, Karbofos, Aktara or Rovikurt. Pests can also be removed manually, with a simple rag soaked in soapy water, decoctions of garlic, tomato, and tobacco.

Cruciferous flea beetles

There are several types of jumping 2-3 mm bugs, with colors ranging from yellow-bronze to blue-green and black. Harm, even to complete destruction, can be caused to young shoots of cauliflower due to their tenderness and vulnerability, and the number of pests. Particularly active in hot sunny weather.

Insects must be controlled preventive methods, destroying cruciferous weeds, digging up the soil for the winter and planting plants in early dates, before the appearance of cruciferous flea beetles (let the leaves form and get stronger), water and shade the beds on hot days, treat them twice in a 10-day period with a solution of trichlorometaphos-3 (0.2%). If vegetables are attacked by pests, you can spray them with “Aklettik”, “Decis”, “Bankol” or “Karate”.

Spring cabbage fly

The insect is dangerous because of its larvae, which it lays in the ground and on the root collar of cauliflower. As they grow, they feed on the plant, reducing the yield or completely destroying it.

As a preventive measure, gardeners are advised to spill the soil around each seedling with a solution of karbofos (0.2%, repeat the procedure three times with an interval of 8-10 days), and dig up the soil in a timely manner. When it appears, treat the cabbage with chlorophos.

Caterpillars

Moths and some types of butterflies (cabbage cutworm, white moth) that lay eggs on the leaves of the plant are dangerous for cauliflower. Growing up, they turn into caterpillars, which, as they grow older, bite into the cabbage, causing the heads of cabbage to become unusable.

They destroy caterpillars even before they appear by detecting and crushing clutches of eggs. Adult specimens can be collected by hand. To control pests, entobacterin-3 (0.5%), potassium chloride (0.5%, 2-3 treatments), superphosphate (0.1%), drugs “Fosbecid”, “Aktelik”, “Lepidocid” are also used. , "Karbofos" and others.

Treating cauliflower against pests with folk remedies

Besides chemicals and laboratory developments, years of cultivating cauliflower have given gardeners a lot of “folk” methods of pest control. For example, treating damaged plants with solutions of mustard, vinegar or salt helps against slugs, and aphids – with soap tinctures of tobacco, tomato, garlic and onion.

You can repel and get rid of cruciferous flea beetles by sprinkling and pollinating cabbage with wood ash, lime (fluff and a mixture with tobacco dust), phosphate rock, garlic solution (add 1 cup of garlic and tomato (potato) leaves to 10 liters of water, leave for 12 hours , grind 40 grams of soap and filter). Cardboard with glue applied also helps - when waving, frightened and jumping fleas stick to the sticky surface.

The cabbage fly is repelled with a vinegar solution (1 tablespoon of acid per 10 liters of water), and butterflies and moths are repelled from laying eggs with infusions of wood ash(per 10 liters 1 cup of ash, leave overnight, stir and spray in the morning), salt (1 cup per 10 liters) or tomato tops (3.5 kilograms of tomato tops are cut, poured with 10 liters of boiling water,infuse for 24 hours, grind and filter, add 8 water and 40 grams of laundry soap to 2 liters of concentrate).

Lack of mineral nutrients and excess sun

Besides pests and diseases, cauliflower does not like direct sunlight, from which the heads begin to turn yellow and pink, and over time may become Brown. They lose elasticity and taste. Therefore, it is recommended to shade the heads from direct sun when they form the size of a walnut.

Cauliflower may die or produce a poor-quality and weak harvest due to a lack of nutritional mineral elements.

Potassium

Dry small brown spots and growing necrosis appear on the edges of the leaves, and the leaves curl over time, causing the cauliflower to turn blue-green. A lack of potassium prevents heads of normal size from forming, and they are poorly stored.

The reason may be “overfeeding” the area with magnesium and calcium or sandy soil. In the latter case, liming the soil helps.

Phosphorus

A lack of phosphorus leads to the death of the edges of the leaves, the lower part of which acquires a purple (with shades of red) color, and the upper part becomes covered with purple spots.

The high acidity of the soil is to blame for phosphorus starvation, so it is limed and fed with fertilizers containing microelements.

Nitrogen

Without receiving enough nitrogen, cauliflower stops growing, the lower leaves begin to turn red and blue, and the bulk of them become pale green.

You can compensate for the lack of a microelement using urea or ammonium nitrate.

Magnesium

For cauliflower, a lack of magnesium is just as dangerous as its excess. The lower leaves lighten and fall off prematurely, and yellow-orange spots may appear.

In this case, fertilizing the soil with magnesium sulfate or kalimag will help, but in case of “overfeeding”, liming should be carried out.

Prevention

There are many methods for combating diseases and pests of cauliflower, but prevention of their occurrence is still at the forefront. The constant destruction of cruciferous weeds and old tops, digging up the soil late in the winter and ventilating-freezing greenhouses and greenhouses in cold weather will help to significantly reduce the chances of losing the harvest.

These measures will help destroy insect larvae and eggs, harmful bacteria and fungi. Timely fertilization and watering of the soil also helps, repelling both diseases and pests of cabbage.

Cauliflower is a crop that can easily be affected by a wide variety of pests. In case of non-compliance by gardeners with the rules of agricultural technology, unfavorable weather conditions Diseases may develop, which are sometimes difficult to cope with. Preventive measures to protect cauliflower from diseases and pests help if they are taken regularly. Cauliflower is most vulnerable during its early development.

Major diseases

Cauliflower plugs can be affected by a wide variety of diseases and pests. These diseases can be fungal and bacteriological in nature. The result is a decrease in yield and product quality. Treatment of leaves and stems must be carried out.

In greenhouses and nurseries, cauliflower most often suffers from diseases such as black leg, mosaic, Alternaria, clubroot, and downy mildew. These cauliflower diseases can affect both the young head and the mature plant.

Mucous bacteriosis

The disease occurs as a result of a violation water regime. If moisture does not reach the absorbing roots, the plant is affected by mucous bacteriosis. This can be understood by the watery spots that appear on the heads of cabbage. Over time, most of the head of cabbage turns into rot, emitting an unpleasant odor. The most active development of the disease is observed in open ground with high humidity.

When the first spots appear, the agronomist must cut them out with a sharp knife, including healthy tissue. If the head of cabbage is severely affected, it must be pulled out and burned. During planting in the soil, cauliflower should be treated against pests with a solution of colloidal sulfur at a concentration of 0.4%, and in the fall after harvesting, the plant remains should be destroyed.

Blackleg

IN to a greater extent affects young seedlings and seed sprouts. It manifests itself as blackening and softening of the base of the stem and root collar. A head of cauliflower dies from this disease. If signs of disease are detected, it is better to destroy the plant immediately.

To avoid the appearance of blackleg, it is necessary to carefully follow the rules of agricultural technology. If seedlings are purchased on the market, the seller must be verified. It is better to disinfect the soil with steam before planting. Formalin solution is also suitable for this purpose. When planting on your own, the seeds should be treated with Pseudo-bacterin-2. Grown seedlings are treated with Previkur 607 SP.

The appearance of brown spots on the leaves, accompanied by a sharp darkening and the appearance of concentric circles, is Alternaria blight. To avoid its appearance, it is necessary to carry out treatment with special disinfectants, for example, Planriz, TMTD, even at the stage of sowing seeds.

During the growing season, plants also need to be treated. Sulfur-containing preparations and copper-based formulations are best suited for this:

• copper sulfate;
• colloidal sulfur;
• Bordeaux mixture.

If there is a need to feed plants, this should be done in moderation.

Kila

This disease is fungal in nature and affects the roots of cauliflower. You can notice growths and swellings on them, which can grow to very large sizes. Over time, a process of decay begins, which destroys the roots. The plant becomes yellow and lethargic. When it dries out, it dies.

To minimize the risk of infection, very finely ground wood ash should be added to the soil throughout the growing season. If infection has occurred, it is not recommended to plant cauliflower in this area for 6-7 years. Two-year-old humus is suitable as a fertilizer, and a solution of dolomite flour at a concentration of 25 g/l is well suited for irrigation.

Downy mildew (pernosporosis)

When this fungal disease appears on the leaves, yellow spots, which have white coating. Leaves affected by powdery mildew die. Dense plantings of cauliflower are more susceptible to the disease.

Cabbage seeds should be well treated before planting. They are kept in water for 20 minutes at a temperature of 50°C. The beds are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture 1% or polycarbocin 0.4%.

Pest Control

Cauliflower pests can cause the death of the plant. To repel insects, cauliflower is treated with an infusion of tomato or potato tops.

In some cases, a solution of tobacco and laundry soap helps well in the fight against insects.

To increase overall immunity, plants can be sprayed with anti-stress agents. Immunofit, Sodium Humate, Immunocytophyte have proven themselves well in treating cauliflower against pests.

Cabbage fly

Cabbage fly lays eggs around plant stems. If they are found, it is necessary to urgently rake them away along with the soil, and then hill the plant high using new soil. This will promote the formation of new, healthy roots. The frequency of this procedure is several times a season. It is with this frequency that female cabbage flies lay eggs.

To scare away flies, you need to sprinkle the ground with tobacco dust or its mixture with ash in a 1:1 ratio. As a result, per 1 sq.m. About 20 grams of the mixture may be consumed. You can also use thick cardboard collars that are placed around the cauliflower stems. A method that helps a lot is compacting plantings with celery.

These small bugs feed on both seedlings and leaves of plants. The most important thing that an agronomist can do in the process of control is to destroy weeds that retain the pathogens of the disease.

Preventive measures are carried out 2 weeks after planting. The weather is hot and dry. The main method is dusting the beds with ash or lime. In addition, compacting plantings of garlic and tomatoes, which cross-shaped flea beetles cannot tolerate, are very effective.

Cabbage aphid

Causes great harm to cauliflower. Survives the winter in unharvested stalks and two-year-old weeds. The adult sucks the juice from the plant, and as a result the leaves become discolored, in some cases turn pink and curl.

Cabbage aphids cannot tolerate the smell of tomatoes, so beds with cauliflower should be placed next to tomatoes. Preventive measures include the following procedures:

• regular weeding;
• digging the soil in the fall;
• burning residues after harvesting;
• wiping the leaves with a solution containing soap;
• the use of drugs such as Karbofos, Decis Extra, Antio, Lepidocid and Entomophtorin, mixed with each other.

With good care of the plant and proper processing, and detection of pests in time, cauliflower disease can be stopped.

Cabbage cutworm, turnip and cabbage cutworm

The best way control - careful inspection of cauliflower leaves and manual destruction of eggs. White butterflies will stop flying around plants on their own if empty pegs are placed on them nearby chicken eggs.

Among the microbiological preparations, Entobacterin, Lepidocide and Bitoxibacillin should be highlighted, which help protect cauliflower heads from pests. Methods of application are described in detail in the annotations; following them is the key to success in pest control.

Cauliflower is susceptible to bacteria and insect pests. Most often this happens when cultivation rules are violated. The occurrence of some diseases is associated with high humidity. In any case, to prevent diseases, you should follow the rules of agricultural technology and take preventive measures.

Cabbage is a fastidious crop when grown at home. This is due to a number of factors: violation of the temperature regime, excessive watering, insufficient feeding, infection with diseases and pests, which is why it can at least begin to dry out. Seedlings dry out and turn yellow for almost every novice gardener.

Also, the leaves may curl or fall, become covered with colored spots; special attention must be paid to these signs, because the plant may begin to disappear and eventually die.

Gardeners note two main reasons why cabbage leaves begin to wilt:

• improper care;
• damage by diseases and pests.

If cabbage leaves begin to curl and dry out, this is a sign of pests on the plant.

Most often, seedlings are susceptible to spider mites and aphids. Diseases include blackleg, fusarium and clubroot.

Pest infestation

1. Small light-colored insects infect plant leaves. They breed in large quantities and suck the juice out of young seedlings, which is why the plant may begin to die.
2. Infection manifests itself in the form of barely noticeable cobwebs on the back of the leaf, sticky discharge and black specks. The surface of the leaves becomes mottled with light spots. Gradually they begin to turn yellow and dry out.
3. The disease is characterized by blackening and thinning of the plant stem. Gradually it breaks and the sprout dies.
4. The disease is characterized by yellowing and wilting of seedling leaves.
5. Characterized by the formation of tubers on the roots of seedlings. It is detected when picking or landing in open ground. The disease is transmitted through the soil in which the plants grew.

Violation of the rules of care

1. Temperature regime. On early stages Plant growth is placed in cool rooms. The conditions of the window sill with the heating running create a too hot climate, which contributes to the drying out of the foliage.
2. Lighting. Lack of lighting leads to poor development of seedlings and loss of green mass. When choosing a place to place seedlings, you should focus on good lighting or organize additional lighting.
3. Priming. Most cabbage varieties grow well in a neutral or alkaline environment. Plants do not tolerate high acidity well.
4. Watering. Cabbage is a moisture-loving plant, but excess watering leads to acidification of the soil. As a result, the oxygen supply to the roots is disrupted. As a result of oxygen starvation, the leaves dry out and wither.

In order for cabbage seedlings not to turn yellow, it is necessary to create comfortable conditions for growth and carry out preventive treatment against diseases and pests.

Methods to combat yellow leaves

Compliance with the rules of caring for seedlings and disease prevention will help prevent drying out in young plants.

Proper feeding

Cabbage grows well with abundant feeding. If there is a lack of fertilizer immediately after planting in the ground, the leaves may turn yellow and dry out.

Experts recommend applying fertilizers 2-3 times at the seedling stage and 3-4 times during the season after planting in open ground. The last feeding is carried out at the stage of head formation. Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium fertilizers and the addition of iron help well against yellowing of foliage.

Organizing proper watering

Excessive watering leads to the development of diseases and rotting of the root system. Seedlings on the windowsill are watered 1-2 times a day. Before watering, check the condition of the soil. Upper layer must be dry.

Compliance with light and temperature conditions

After germination, the seedlings must be placed in a cool room with a temperature no higher than 12 degrees. Excess heat leads to elongation of sprouts and the development of a weak root system. Lack of light also causes sprouts to stretch out.

The situation can be corrected by changing temperature and light conditions, additional lighting at night, and watering with anti-stress drugs Epin-Extra and Zircon.

Landing in the ground

When planting on ridges, damage to the root system occurs. As a result, the lower leaves turn yellow. In such a situation, seedlings are additionally feed, and dry leaves carefully trimmed.

Pest Control

To control pests, seeds are pre-treated before planting seedlings. The soil in which the seedlings are placed is also subjected to antiseptic treatment.

If aphids or spider mites are detected, the leaves are washed under running water and sprinkled with a thin layer wood ash. Plants affected by blackleg or clubroot it is recommended to destroy.

For healthy seedlings, proper care conditions are organized (reduce watering, lower temperature, lower acidity, thin out plantings).

After planting in the ground, to prevent diseases and pests, it is recommended to treat the plants with a solution of whey and water.

Causes of poor seedling growth

In some cases, even good seedlings can produce poor growth performance. Experts identify a number of reasons associated with poor development seedlings:

• deepening of seeds;
• excessive or insufficient watering;
• temperature violation;
• dry air in the room with plantings;
• strong drafts;
• damage by diseases and pests;
• dense plantings;
• lack of lighting;
• flaw nutrients in the soil.

All these reasons lead to the development of a weak root system and impaired growth seedlings.

Effective methods of growth stimulation

You can stimulate the growth of seedlings already at the stage of sowing seeds.

Correct selection seed material and its placement in the ground ensure the rapid growth of strong plants.

1. Selection of seed material. For planting, use only smooth seeds without visible damage. It is important to check the expiration dates on the packaging.
2. Soil selection. Cabbage does not grow well in acidic soil. Effective method stimulation is a decrease in acidity. To do this, lime is added to the soil.
3. Disinfection and soaking of seeds. Cabbage seeds germinate faster and are less susceptible to pests if they are pre-soaked in a cold solution of manganese or a growth stimulant.
4. Deepening and thickening of plantings. Seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm. Large hole depths lead to poor germination of seedlings. After sprouting, the cabbage is thinned out. An area of ​​2×2 cm is allocated for 1 sprout.
5. Feeding. Timely feeding allows you to stimulate the growth of seedlings. It is produced in three stages. The first one is 10 days after the pick. The second stage is 2 weeks after the first feeding. The third stage is 4-5 days before planting in the ground.
6. Use of growth stimulants. With proper care and insufficient growth of cabbage, stimulants are used. The preparations are used when soaking seeds, planting plants in the ground, unfavorable conditions in the form of diseases, frosts, insufficient lighting. Effective drugs: EPIN, Epin-Extra, Immunocytophyte, Heteroauxin.

It is quite possible to grow strong seedlings without dry and yellow leaves at home. The main thing is to adhere to the rules of caring for plants, choose a suitable place and do timely disease prevention both when growing at home in the window and in the garden.

As you know, choosing and planting cabbage seedlings correctly is only the first step towards a good harvest. The most important thing in growing cabbage is to be able to protect the cabbage beds from diseases and pests. Quite often, gardeners do not know what to do when they notice that spots begin to appear on the leaves of such lovingly nurtured cabbage, and only watch with disappointment as the leaves turn yellow, turn white and curl. How to treat cabbage if its leaves dry out and curl, and why this happens, you can find out in our article.

Why do cabbage leaves curl?

The main reason why cabbage leaves begin to dry out, become covered with whitish spots and curl is an invasion of cabbage aphids. These small, inconspicuous grayish-white insects prefer to live in large colonies, feeding on cabbage juice. Before the onset of winter, they lay countless eggs both on cabbage stalks and on weeds growing nearby. In the spring, aphid larvae hatch from overwintered eggs, which after just 10-14 days turn into adult females. They, in turn, give birth to new offspring. As a result, in a fairly short time, even the most extensive cabbage bed becomes completely infested with cabbage aphids. During one season, more than 16 generations of aphids grow on the site, and both larvae and adult insects use cabbage juice for nutrition. Overcome by such an invasion, cabbage rapidly loses its vitality, its leaves become stained, dry out, and over time the cabbage dies. Cabbage heads, overcome by aphids, either do not form or form excessively deformed ones. Aphids reproduce especially actively in moderately humid and warm weather, so in warm, rainy summers, gardeners need to be especially careful.

Is it possible to save cabbage if its leaves curl and dry out?

Although fighting aphids is not a simple task, it is quite possible to achieve success with regular protective measures. Firstly, after harvesting, it is necessary to carefully destroy all infected cabbage stumps and weeds on which aphid eggs can overwinter. The land in the area where cabbage was grown must be plowed, thus leaving no chance for aphid eggs to safely survive the frost.

Secondly, to reduce the number of aphids, you can use their natural opponents - ladybugs, lacewing and hoverflies.

Thirdly, when the first signs of cabbage being infected by aphids are detected, it is necessary to begin treating the area with insecticides. How to treat cabbage if its leaves curl and dry out? For the first treatment, a mixture of 5 grams of potassium chloride and 10 grams of extract is usually used, dissolving them in 10 liters of water. Repeated treatment with this infusion can be carried out, if necessary, 10-15 days after the first. Among the folk remedies in the fight against aphids, infusions of potato tops, tobacco dust, onion peels, etc. are used. Treatment with such infusions can be carried out at intervals of one to one and a half weeks, two to three times per season. If folk remedies find themselves powerless against pests, the drugs “Decis” and “Fozalon” come to the aid of the gardener. Any of these products must be dissolved in water in a proportion of 10-15 ml per 10 liters of water and treated cabbage beds with the resulting solution. The drug “Iskra” also gives good results, one tablet of which must also be dissolved in one bucket of water.

Cabbage is a plant that requires a lot of attention from the gardener. It is susceptible to various diseases, among which are white and gray rot, powdery mildew, rhizoctonia, late blight, blackleg and others, as well as invasions of numerous pests.

One of the problems that often bothers beginners is the curling of cabbage leaves. Before you figure out what to do and how to treat the plant if the cabbage leaves in the garden curl inward, you need to find out why this happens.

Causes of leaves curling on cabbage

Lack of moisture. Curling cabbage leaves outside of the head is a bad sign. Cabbage leaves may curl if it suffers from a lack of moisture. Check the soil near the roots and if it is dry, then pour half a bucket of settled water onto each head of cabbage. The temperature of water and soil should not differ greatly. Watering is carried out directly along the holes or along the furrows. In too hot weather, sprinkling is allowed. Also, a garden plant lays down and withers when affected by blackleg, to destroy which “Baktofit”, “Planriz”, “Fitosporin” or “Fitolavin-300” are used. We weed the hole to remove weeds and hill up. There is enough water, and the leaves have never curled.

Lack or excess of nutrients in the soil. Sometimes cabbage leaves curl due to a lack or, conversely, excess of nutrients in the soil. In this case, the best solution would be to use mineral fertilizers, because figuring out what exactly your cabbage is missing is quite difficult. But it is also not worth fertilizing the plant according to the principle “the more the better” - this is fraught with oversaturation with minerals, which will not bring any benefit. Chemical burns from pesticides will certainly affect the appearance of the leaves if you carelessly sprayed the cabbage with an overly concentrated solution. In this case, it is unlikely that the plant will be restored in any way, and you will most likely have to say goodbye to the harvest. If the plant does not have enough boron, the young leaves of cabbage seedlings from the petiole become pale, their edges curl. If there is a lack of molybdenum, young cabbage leaves curl into a spoon shape. Cauliflower leaves wrinkle, curl, and the tissue becomes transparent and thin. The leaves take on a dirty green color.

Cabbage pests. One of the most common reasons for this leaf behavior is the attack of cabbage aphids, the main pest of this vegetable. At the same time, leaf curling is just one of many troubles. Settling on cabbage in large colonies, aphids - a small grayish-white insect - cause enormous and sometimes severe damage to this plant. irreparable damage. External symptoms are yellow spots in places where the proboscis punctures, drying and dying of individual sections of the leaf. Cabbage leaves lose color, turn yellow and curl. Plant development slows down, the weight of the head of cabbage decreases, and the commercial properties of the product deteriorate. In cabbage seeds, branches and buds with flowers become blue-pink, seeds are not formed, and leaves fall off. Cabbage must be freed from aphids as early as possible; if no measures are taken to combat the insect, many plantings will die. Aphids, in addition to direct harm to the plant by eating, carry about twenty viral infections. To prevent the spread of aphids and other pests, it is recommended to remove and burn plant residues (stumps) after harvesting cabbage, thoroughly dig up the soil in the fall followed by leveling (in production conditions - deep autumn plowing and spring cultivation), as well as regular weeding of weeds from the Brassica family: with shepherd's bag, field grass, rapeseed, sverbiga, alyssum, zherushnik, etc. When the first colonies of aphids are found on cabbage, wipe the leaves with aphids with a cloth soaked in a soap solution. Folk remedies - the use of infusions and decoctions of potato and tomato tops, tobacco, henbane, onions, garlic, etc.

It is recommended to use chemicals (Antio, Bi-58 new, Decis extra, Karbofos, Rovikurt) in production conditions only when the economic threshold of harmfulness is reached: when 5-10% of plants are infested with aphids. To determine the EPV, cabbage plants are examined in the phase of head formation and compaction, examining the field in a checkerboard pattern of 5 plants in 20 places.

The cause of cabbage leaves curling can also be a common garden pest - whitefly. This little butterfly appearance very much like a moth. First, pest larvae appear on the undersides of cabbage leaves. Very soon the cabbage leaves curl and become covered with a fungal coating, after which they completely dry out. Whitefly larvae are covered with a waxy coating, therefore they are extremely resistant to various chemical treatments. It is much more effective to destroy adult insects using the drugs Fufanon, Actellik, Intra-vir and yellow adhesive fly tape (whiteflies are attracted to the yellow color).

Cruciferous bug. They have a body length of 5-10 mm and are variegated in color. Damage to cabbage is caused by larvae and adults. Insects are especially harmful to seedlings, which wither and leaves curl. To prevent the appearance of this pest, it is necessary to carry out regular weeding of weeds - shepherd's purse, field grass, sverbiga, rapeseed, etc. After harvesting the cabbage, carefully destroy the remains of the crop. In some cases, chemicals are used.

Is it possible to save cabbage if its leaves curl?

Although fighting aphids is not a simple task, it is quite possible to achieve success with regular protective measures. Firstly, after harvesting, it is necessary to carefully destroy all infected cabbage stumps and weeds on which aphid eggs can overwinter. The land in the area where cabbage was grown must be plowed, thus leaving no chance for aphid eggs to safely survive the frost. How to feed pepper seedlings for growth?

Thirdly, when the first signs of cabbage being infected by aphids are detected, it is necessary to begin treating the area with insecticides. How to treat cabbage if its leaves curl and dry out? For the first treatment, a mixture of 5 grams of potassium chloride and 10 grams of superphosphate extract is usually used, dissolving them in 10 liters of water. Repeated treatment with this infusion can be carried out, if necessary, 10-15 days after the first. Among the folk remedies in the fight against aphids, infusions of potato tops, tobacco dust, onion peels and ash are used. Treatment with such infusions can be carried out at intervals of one to one and a half weeks, two to three times per season. If folk remedies are powerless against pests, the drugs “Decis” and “Fozalon” come to the aid of the gardener. Any of these products must be dissolved in water in a proportion of 10-15 ml. per 10 liters of water and treat the cabbage beds with the resulting solution. The drug “Iskra” also gives good results, one tablet of which must also be dissolved in one bucket of water.