Combined model IS 2. Combined models of tanks. Workplace preparation

I present to you the team wooden model tank IS-2 (Object 240) - Soviet heavy tank during the Great Patriotic War. The IS marking means "Joseph Stalin" - the official name of serial Soviet heavy tanks produced in 1943-1953. The number 2 in the title corresponds to the second serial model of the tank of this family. IS-2 was the most powerful and most heavily armored of the Soviet and allied production tanks during the war, and one of the strongest tanks at that time in the world. Tanks of this type played a big role in the battles of 1944-1945.

Tank IS 2 (Object 240)

Work of medium difficulty. The model of the IS 2 tank consists of 187 elements, while the main parts have straight cut lines, which will simplify the task of cutting out. The tank model will take its rightful place in your collection.


In order to assemble such a tank model with your own hands, you will need the following tools and accessories:

Workplace preparation

As usual, the first thing you need to do is equip your workplace on which you will be working. The rules are not complicated: there should be no extra things on the table, all the tools should be in their places and be at hand. Not everyone has their own desktop, and for sure you have already thought about creating it. Making a table is not difficult - it is more difficult to choose a place for it in the house. A good option- this is a warmed balcony on which you can start working on crafts at any time. If you have a specially equipped room with a workbench, then you can be said to be lucky. You can read about the preparation of the table in a separate article, where I tried to describe the entire process of its creation in as much detail as possible. After you have completed the process of creating a workplace, you can proceed directly to your future craft.

Choice of plywood

Estimated dimensions of the IS 2 tank model made of plywood (35 cm x 12 cm x 10 cm), since the drawing is designed for printing on A3 and A4 paper, the details can fit on four plywood sheets for A3 and seven A4 sheets. The thickness of plywood should be from 2.5 to 3 mm. Before transferring the drawing to plywood, sand the workpiece with a sandpaper with a large grain, and finish with a fine one. Easier to sand with wooden block skin wrapped. Sand the harvested plywood along the layers, not across. A well-sanded surface should be smooth, perfectly smooth, glossy-matt in the light and silky to the touch. Pay attention to the location of the fibers, knots, dents and other defects. Quality and color.

Transferring the pattern to plywood

You need to translate the drawing accurately and accurately: fix the drawing with the buttons or simply hold it with your left hand. Check if the drawing fits the dimensions. Arrange the individual parts so that the plywood sheet is used as economically as possible. You should not rush, because your future craft depends on the drawing. To speed up the translation process, you can use the technique quick transfer drawing, for this I propose to read the article: Drawing of the tank IS 2 You can at the end of the article after payment.

Sawing with a jigsaw

There are many rules for sawing, but you need to be based on the most common ones. First, you should cut out the internal elements, then proceed to sawing out the contour. There is no need to rush when cutting. The main thing is to always keep the jigsaw straight at an angle of 90 degrees when cutting. Saw pieces along precisely marked lines. The movements of the jigsaw should always be smooth up and down. Also, don't forget to watch your posture. Try to avoid bevels and bumps. If you get off the line while cutting, do not worry. Such bevels, irregularities can later be removed with a flat file or “Coarse-grained” skin.


With a plywood thickness of 2.5mm. some elements can be cut with a clerical knife, but be very careful this method traumatic because, with a long voltage, the knife can come off or break off, causing injury.

Rest

When sawing, we often get tired. Often fingers get tired as well as eyes, which are always in suspense. At work, of course, everyone gets tired. In order to reduce the load, you need to do a couple of exercises. Exercises you can see. Do the exercises several times during the work.

Assembly diagram

The assembly of craft parts in this work is not very difficult, detailed instructions You will find along with the drawing file. Below are the main assembly steps.
Caterpillar base.

Volume: 5 sheets A4 format.


We dress trucks.


Platform assembly.

After the parts are assembled into one common craft without any problems, then proceed to gluing them.

To give more similarity, you can add a few strokes in the form of lines using an electric burner. It can be very difficult to burn out a pattern beautifully, but here there are not many lines and making them is quite simple. First you need to draw lines with a pencil, then slowly go along these lines with an electric burner. You can read how to work with an electric burner and add patterns in a separate article.

Finishing crafts


The model of the IS 2 tank can be varnished or painted if desired, it is not necessary to do this, but this will add more individuality to your craft. Try to choose a good and high-quality varnish. Varnish with a special brush, take your time. Try not to leave visible streaks of bubbles and lint from the brush.

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Prefabricated models of tanks differ in scale, have the appearance of pre-existing and existing ones, will allow your child to get acquainted with the features of tank building in an accessible form - detailed details allow assembled tank look realistic. This type All children want to have toys, because everyone knows that the most favorite toys are handmade toys.

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small historical reference, performance characteristics, photo walkaround and video of the tank can be viewed in the article.

Until recently, there were several models of this tank in 1:72 scale, for example, from Italeri and PST. Their shortcomings have been written about more than once, of course, one could repeat, but there is neither one nor the other set at hand. And finally, the long-awaited novelty came out, from the Russian company Zvezda, IS-2 in 1:72 scale. Although it was announced a long time ago and the modellers were looking forward to it different dates, including Victory Day, however, it came out just now. Let's see how our expectations were met.

The part number is 5011. It is packaged in a small cardboard box with a side flap. The front side shows a drawing of a tank, and the back side shows an assembled and unpainted tank.


I still can’t understand why it’s drawn on the back, it would be better if they put color options for coloring. The IS-2 model is made at the modern level, using 3D technologies. She, like the previous tanks of the company "Zvezda" on a scale of 1:72, is included in the "Assembly without" series. The box contains instructions, a decal, a hull bath, three sprues, two of which contain parts, and one contains track tapes.





The casting quality is very good, there are no offsets, flash or sinkholes, the details are made clearly without blurring. At the first examination of the castings, I was pleased with a very decent level of surface elaboration and detailing.










The decal is small for one option, which is included in the instructions. But there is a set of numbers white color from which you can dial any number.

The instruction is informative and detailed, the quality of its printing is at a good level. Assembly steps are shown large and clear.

I don't think there should be any problem with assembly. According to the first estimates, the assembly of several parts, they fit very well. Let's try to see how much of a copy the model turned out to be. To do this, we will use the measurements made by me during the walkaround survey of this tank.

IS-2

1:72

model

seam width

1700

23,6

24,3

roller diameter

540

7,5

7,6

length of the MTO lattice

865

12,01

12,4

MTO lattice width

1760

24,4

23,3

MTO hatch width

610

8,47

8,1

length of grating on the body

1070

14,86

15,2

lattice width on the body

340

4,7

4,5

distance between gratings

1560

21,6

20,7

barrel length from mask to muzzle brake

3320

46,1

muzzle brake diameter

320

4,4

3,8

It can be seen from the data in the table that the model corresponds very well to the scale of 1:72. There are slight deviations, but in my opinion, they are within the normal range. There is a question about the muzzle brake, in plastic, it turned out to be a little shorter, which can be seen from a more detailed sketch in the article "IS-2 measurements". The price of the novelty is 220 rubles.

In conclusion, we can say that the Zvezda turned out to be a very good IS-2. At a low price, the model is made at a decent level and quite well conveys the look of the famous Soviet tank. I think, as calculated by the manufacturer, even a novice modeler can assemble it. I would like to wish Zvezda to continue to produce the same good models. And we are looking forward to the announced for this year missile system"Poplar".

Unfortunately, I did not take photos of the painting process itself. Therefore, I bring to your judgment only the final result of the assembly and painting of the IS-2 model from Zvezda in the 72nd scale. The model decided not to get dirty with pigments. I don't intend to make a vignette or use it in a diorama. It seems to me that "for the shelf" it will be better.

Painting the IS-2 tank model in basic colors and subsequent processing

When painting, I set myself the task of minimizing the number of layers of paint applied, so as not to “blur” the details. I read about it in the technology articles on ost-front.ru.

The sequence of applying layers when painting the model was as follows:

  • Gunze soil Mr.surfacer 1000, diluted 1:1
  • Paint preshading XF-1
  • Base color 4BO, (dark version)
  • Highlighting the second option 4BO protruding parts
  • Machine guns and rope XF-84 Dark Iron, on the upper machine gun walked with a dry brush X-10 Gun Metal.
  • The handle of a shovel and a saw handle - mixing tempera paints (I think it didn’t quite match the color)
  • With a brush and tempera paint he made white stripes on the tower.
  • Tamiya X-35 semi-matte varnish
  • Emblem and number decals
  • Put a layer of varnish on the places where the decals were applied X-35
  • Applied a "warm" filter made from oil paints based on light ocher
  • For oil dots I used green, ocher and white paints.
  • I made a “brown” wash (I also mixed it with oil paints)
  • Covered the model with XF-86 matte varnish
  • Slightly stained the muzzle brake and exhaust points with pigment Old Crease and walked along the seams and protruding parts with pigment steel bright from Wilder

Thus, the number of "thick" layers was actually reduced to 3. Base color, semi-gloss lacquer, matt lacquer.

The filters and washes on the semi-gloss worked well. The decals also lay down without any problems, no silvering was noticed. For welding, I used a solution of vinegar.

Coloring of the tracks of the IS-2 tank model from Zvezda

Base color for painting tracks: Tamiya XF-84 Dark Iron. For rust, I used Wilder Burn Rust, Light Rust, Red Rust pigments in various proportions, after which I went over the teeth and protruding surfaces with a dry brush with X-10 Gun Metal paint to give the tracks worn down to metal.




Model "Soviet heavy tank IS-2", catalog number 3524, scale 1:35.

A week ago, in order to fill my hand and get comfortable with the airbrush, I needed new model, which could be painted from scratch. T-90 is a pity - a serious model after all. The IS-2 from Zvezda was chosen as a cheap alternative.

This model is old and widely known, but on this moment very outdated. There are many shortcomings and errors, I will list only a few of them:
- Absolutely flat bottom of the case, no relief.
- Vinyl tracks that spoil a lot appearance. Luckily, this is easy to fix - stackable tracks for IS tanks are not uncommon.
- The viewing slot of the driver is greatly underestimated. It is curious that this and subsequent errors are not in the box drawing.
- Wrong gun mask. Firstly, it should protrude slightly forward, and secondly, the model does not have a characteristic cutout in the upper corner of the mask.
- The triplexes on the tower are very different from the real ones.
- anti-aircraft DShK machine gun given in a set defective, without a box with cartridges.

I decided to assemble the model "out of the box" and did not set myself the goal of correcting the shortcomings in terms of equipment.

The sprues make a good impression, there is little flash and sinking, but mold offsets are present on almost every detail. Assembly, as usual, I started with the chassis. The rollers and towing hooks had to be processed for a long time, unpleasant gaps formed between the sides and the bottom. I did not glue the stars and sloths to make it easier to install the tracks.

The upper part of the case did not cause any complaints, everything is assembled perfectly. Putty had to be applied on the stern sheet to remove the gaps that had arisen.

With the tower, everything turned out to be much worse. Its upper and lower halves are joined terribly, wide steps are formed. This disgrace was only partially smoothed out, for example, small gaps remained at the stern of the tower. The putty also damaged the welds. The barrel of the gun docked well, but not perfectly, and required processing. There are markings for handrails and hooks on the tower, which greatly simplifies the work. I made the commander's turret movable, using sprue pieces. I decided not to open the hatches - they are not detailed from the inside. The anti-aircraft machine gun required effort in processing and assembly.

The fun part begins - coloring. I blew out the undercarriage and hull bath with protective acrylic paint from Zvezda. I painted the caterpillar belts and the anti-aircraft machine gun with acrylic blued steel from Akan. Ribbons pulled on undercarriage not bad, I didn't have to glue sloths and drive sprockets - everything is held on by friction. True, I don’t know how to make sagging vinyl tracks.

I also blew out the hull and turret in a protective color. In order not to use masking tape masks, I did not apply white stripes to the tower. For realism, I simulated carbon deposits on the muzzle brake of the gun with acrylic black paint from Tamiya, then applied exhaust burn with it.

After applying the base color, I set to work on the pigments. The protruding parts of the tank were coated with powder from Tamiya. On the stern, turret and undercarriage of the tank, I applied more dust than on the hull to give the effect of a "seasoned" tank. He made a dent on the tower from a shell that did not penetrate the armor, covered the chipped area with rust. Pigments really helped fix the machine gun - the metallic sheen and abrasions hid most of the shortcomings.

Triplexes imitated with a regular pencil. For the antenna, I borrowed a mustache from a cat and painted it.

The set includes a decal for tank number 414 from the 7th Guards Heavy tank brigade. This tank was seen by me in several photographs in Berlin. Characteristic features machine is lack anti-aircraft machine gun and damaged front fenders.

I did not glue all the decals, only the numbers and the inscription. So I got some collective image Soviet IS in Berlin.

The model is easy to assemble, but to bring it to mind, you need to make serious efforts. In the future, I will return to the topic of Soviet heavy tanks but my next "Joseph Stalin" will either be from Tamiya or from the Chinese.

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