Assemble tank tiger 1 16

Pavel Kubrachenko, my friend, and I set about building a 1/16 Tiger to order... Huge! RC! Packed in a heavy box.

The Tiger came with a complete etching kit from ABER. To consider everything carefully before construction, all the details were laid out on the floor, while occupying the entire room. Then they moved to the dining table, covering it with a white wedding tablecloth. In such a heap of details, it is not surprising to get lost or, God forbid, to lose something.

Here we see a steel trough, which forms the basis of the hull structure.

Assembling torsion bar parts, we marveled at the skill and talent of Tamiyev's designers. Everything is done so reasonably, simply and at the same time exhaustively according to the design task! In general, at first we thought that such a large model, moreover, radio-controlled, would be rough and simplified. Wrong. Most of the parts and assemblies are very elegant and do not require, IMHO, replacement with etched ones.

Here we see the Sanva receiver, controller, engines and powerful batteries. To assemble the circuit, I had to go to the radio workers in the Pilotage store. It was necessary to find a pairing between Tamiya electronics, sharpened by Futaba, which is not on sale, and Sanvoy, which is now on sale in Russia. Everything turned out to be simple, but it did not work out quickly without a special habit.

For metal, they took an auto-primer, for plastic - an Xtracolor primer that turned out to be available.

The paint for the base color was practically uncontested. With paint in Moscow tension. There was only Tamiya alcohol-soluble (which is NOT enamel). Paint is not suitable for large surfaces. Naughty. Paint only with a thin layer, you will accelerate a little and start to "water" from the heart - it immediately becomes rough and looks like asphalt. It took 4 cans of XF-63 in total.

The task was this: to paint the tank as if it had just come from the factory. Dust, dirt and other - are excluded. But we still broke a little. For this purpose, an AK interactive kit was purchased, containing a filter for German gray, a wash and liquid for weather marks. The latter was not used (the customer would not have survived) The filter, IMHO, is very dense, but we actively used it, but we didn’t like the wash. It is also very dense, the color is dubious blue-brown and, most importantly, on such an area, the wash does not look like a drop that has spread over the surface, but a puddle that you want to wipe dry. IMHO, proven techniques do not work on such a scale. Conditionality becomes unconditionality. In a good way - you know how to draw, take a brush and paint the tank as you think is right, how to paint a picture. We limited ourselves to filtering and selecting seams manually, plus highlighting and a dry brush. SM next.

Now about pickling. The Aber set is huge, more than 15 boards plus all kinds of wires, tubes and cables. Most of the details are very intelligent. But!! Here is the wing assembled by us from etching. It's primed, so it's grey. Labor intensity 2 hours, with the study of the drawing, a break and an assessment of the result - all 4-5. Meaning?

The plastic one looks exactly the same. In addition, given the weight of the model (more than three kilograms), it is worth touching the etched wing a little - and it will either bend (which is unacceptable) or lose a few small details (which is never unacceptable). In the end, we left the plastic wings. They are less emergency. Even if they break off, they are recoverable.

In total, we took about 25% of the etched parts. Although not less than 50% were going. Most of the persecution from the set makes sense if these parts are needed for the sake of natural texture (bruising, curvature, etc.). But the customer was expecting a brand new tank from us, which means these parts do not make sense, plastic ones are no worse.
And yet, something of the etching we did.

Here we see grilles, an exhaust flap, attachment points additional protection on the tower (they are not etched, but cast), the inscription "Bosch" on the headlights. bolt heads in different places, locks, tower box covers. And so on.

As much as we would not like it, the cables had to be left with their relatives, plastic ones. Steel is very elastic, naughty fasteners do not hold them. If you apply force, they begin to develop. A thin cable is not at all similar in bending radii to a real one. A fat one can, having straightened up, break not only the fasteners, but also demolish the tower.

In total, we spent three months intermittently. It could have been a month, but we tried different variants, stopped. We thought for a long time. The tank is pretty fast. Can spin in place, makes authentic sounds recorded from under the real Tiger. It rotates the turret, shakes the barrel, cheerfully scribbles from a machine gun and shoots deafeningly from a cannon. At the same time, a bright flash sparkles, and the barrel rolls back 9 seconds and slowly returns.

CONCLUSION... It seems to me that this project is ridiculous. How can you combine heavy rc tank with so many thin, fragile details. There's nothing to take him for. Only two hands in front and behind under the belly.

Featuring a new magazine series Assemble the Tiger Tank from the publisher Ashet Collection(Hachette) you will assemble the exact model German tank during World War II! High quality 1:16 scale model Tiger tank I - Ausf.E, based on a copy exhibited in the tank museum in the French city of Saumur. This model of the Tiger tank reproduces technical features original with maximum accuracy!

Model

Number by number you build a tiger tank. Detailed illustrated step-by-step instruction, written in an accessible language, will help you connect all the elements of the model.

The Tiger tank, when it was put into service in 1942, was technically the most advanced battle tank of the German Wehrmacht. Model from a magazine Assemble the Tiger Tank based on a real copy of the modified Tiger I tank, presented in the museum of armored vehicles in the French city of Saumur. The model reflects the smallest details of the design of the original tank with the utmost accuracy, recreating the full equipment inside the tank. You will find out what joy the filigree of model craftsmanship brings!

Model Features
: 1:16
: 49.8x23.3x17.7 cm
: zamak (zinc-aluminum-magnesium-copper alloy), ABS plastic, metal.
: metal tracks, rotating turret, rotating cannon, exit hatch in the turret.

: rear equipment box lid and hinges, loader hatch parts, spare track link mounts, tool mounts, tow lines and fire extinguishers.
: hinge hinges, blade working side and protective cover, protective cover grille for cooling system fans and tanks, riveted tape on the jack, fire extinguisher tightening straps, small parts of the engine compartment cover.

History of the Tank

The prototype of the late Tiger, with its characteristic steel tracks, was the tanks that were produced from January 1944. This tank began fighting on the Western Front at the beginning of 1944, and from the middle of the same year it appeared on the Eastern Front. Since that time, as the hostilities developed, the tanks gradually retreated to the rear, to the inner German regions. One of the most famous in the history of the Tiger was the battle of June 13, 1944 in Villers Botsaga, in which tank commander Michael Wittmann almost single-handedly disabled the tank company of the famous English “Desert Rats”.

Magazine

Each issue of the magazine contains detailed and accessible instructions for assembling a tank model. Magazine Assemble Tiger Tank- A comprehensive reference guide to chained giants: you will learn a lot about armored vehicles and battles with them!

The section describes the history of the creation and modernization of the tank, its side gun and other components: additional weapons, engine and protective armor. You will also learn about the most important battles in which the Tiger tank participated.

Exit Schedule

Issue 1 - 08/18/2011 - Tank cannon
Issue 2 - Tower Roof
Issue 3 - Breech with a barrel breech
Issue 4 - Parts of the cradle and fragments of the gun mask

Total planned 140 issues.

Forum

You can discuss Assemble the Tiger Tank series, find out the latest news, see exit schedule And issue content magazine and also show your model on our

The interchangeable top of the hull and turret allows you to turn a battle tank into a transparent model with a fully visible interior in a minute, which is actually what was required.

Having brought a 10 kg box to the workshop, I laid out all the sprues with details on the floor. More than 1500 details impressed. Pleasantly pleased with the finished caterpillars, and metal sloths. The assembly instructions on 50 pages of A4 format struck me with volume. I have never done anything like this before.

For comparison - in the upper left corner I laid out the details from the Tiger on a scale of 1:35.

It turned out that the interior of the tower needed to be glued onto an opaque base, and the top left removable.

In general, casting is more than satisfactory, everything fits together.
That's just casting defects - a lot. I'm talking about the indentations in the plastic from the molds.
Assembly for painting took 24 working days. On the day, it was possible to make 1 turn of the instructions, as well as putty on the details of the next turn.

When all the blocks were ready, I started painting. It took 8 business days.

Tank image.

Decided to do collective image, taking as a basis the car of the 509th battalion of heavy tanks, 1945.

The car struck me with its concisely emphasized rapacity and drama. Looking at it, you can’t say that this is the end of the war, that Germany is in ruins, and industry is barely working, despite the fierce bombing of the allies. The tank returned to the front from the factory, after repairs. In conditions of a shortage of paint, they nevertheless applied a magnificent ambush camouflage to it. He has a full load of ammunition. Inside clean and tidy. But there are not enough tactical designations. In their last battle, the nameless crew will not need identification marks and numbers. After the battle, there will be no one to identify the car, because the battlefield will most likely remain with the enemy. From the train platform - into battle. From which, perhaps, no one is destined to return.

No one knows whether the crew died from the first hit, or the fighters fought to the last shell. It is almost impossible to find the fate of this nameless machine in the archives.

Why did I choose her?

Absolutely everyone who prepared her for battle knew that it was all over. But all these people did their job as well as they could. This car is the epitome of perfection. And it cannot be taken away, even when faith is lost.

Final assembly.

The final assembly after painting was complicated by the fact that the rollers did not fit the mounting holes in the paired rollers. I had to regrind all the rollers from the inside, it's good that there is a micro drill!

Suspension torsion bars turned out to be working, and really worked on twisting. A pleasant surprise - chassis really came alive!

Of particular difficulty was the adjustment of the bottom and top, so that the interior and ammo racks did not interfere with the transparent top to sit down to the stop.

There were no problems with the tower.

The final assembly took 20 days instead of the planned 14.

Life has made its own adjustments. I can say that no model in my life has been so difficult for me. But the job was done.

The finished tank was never seen by those who supported me in purchasing the model.
And soon he found his owner in Moscow.
From this work, unprecedented in its scale, I have only these photos left with you.

RC model for " tank battle”, a copy of the German heavy tank WWII RzKpfw VI Tiger in 1:16 scale.

After the attack of the Third Reich on Soviet Union the need to strengthen the armor and power of the Wehrmacht tank fleet became obvious to the German military. On April 20, 1942, Hitler's birthday, the Fuhrer was shown two prototypes of the "Tiger" - VK 4501 from Henshel and VK 4501 from Porshe. Based on the results of showing prototypes to the Fuhrer and subsequent tests at the training ground, the military leadership of the Third Reich chose the Henschel prototype. Having received the designation PzKpfw VI Ausf H "Tiger", the tank was put into serial production. For the first time "Tiger I" on the personal instructions of Hitler was tested on the Leningrad front. "Along a narrow corridor separating the Volkhov and Leningrad fronts, an unusual tank moved towards one of the Soviet units. The shells of our anti-tank guns bounced off the armor. The Tiger kept moving.
The PzKpfw VI turned out to be a formidable adversary, but despite the fascist tankmen's incantation: "We will be invincible - thanks to our Tigers", the war ended in Berlin, not near Moscow.

The model of the RzKpfw VI Tiger tank is made with a high degree copies. All parts are made with the smallest details: multi-row rollers, machine guns, gratings covering the engine, towing cables, spare tracks and searchlights, a shovel and a tool mounted on the hull.

The tank is equipped with an "infrared" gun and is designed for combat. All manipulations of the model are accompanied by sound effects: the roar of the engine from the moment it is turned on and the unforgettable sound of the engine stalling when it is turned off. Automatic bursts when firing from machine guns, a deafening sound during a cannon volley, and a dull thud of a projectile when hit by an enemy.
The sound effects volume control provides smooth adjustment and muting of the effects.

The "Tiger" withstands 6 hits, in which the tank stops, starts to vibrate, and the lights in the turret light up, simulating a defeat. After the sixth hit, the model sounds an explosion and a siren, the tank freezes, but after 30 seconds the sound of a starting engine is heard, and the model is again ready to join the battle.

With the help of radio control, the tank model is able to move forward and in reverse, turn and turn around on the spot, rotate the turret by 320 degrees, shoot, raise and lower the gun barrel. The number of tanks in battle is limited only by the availability of interchangeable quartz for enemy models.

Hit the enemy with a frontal shot or win with a cunning maneuver in battle, compete for speed over a distance or for accuracy in slalom maneuvering, in any case, this tank is built for dynamics and battles, despite the appearance worthy of a museum sample.

The kit includes.

29.01.16.

Binding to a specific prototype is not yet planned. I will do the option with tricolor camouflage.

As construction progresses, I plan small improvements. I don't know what exactly, I'll be guided by the photos.

I really liked that there are grooves for the balancers, so you can’t confuse anything.

There are three holes on the bottom of the tank, while for two of them the instruction gives instructions on what to do, and there is no mention of the third at all.

The only place where I got flash on the first day of assembly was the drive sprocket and rear roller, but there was very little of it.

The quality of the casting is pleasant.

About the rear roller - I didn’t quite understand why there was such a backlash (the roller can be moved from the body by about half a centimeter).

And here is the first not tight fit of the parts: it fits perfectly from below, but not very close at the top. In principle, this will be hidden by welds.

The kit does not include working torsion bars, so the meaning of their installation is not clear, because. This set does not include an interior. And the details of the torsion bars are slightly reminiscent of the real ones.

It was not immediately possible to calculate the missing part that covers the hole in the bottom. It turned out to be part number 18 on sprue B. It's funny that it's not even in the sprue layout.

The installation scheme and the number of rollers are confusing, so I figured it out far from immediately. The instructions were of little help in this, I had to look for photos on the Internet, after which everything fell into place.

Each rink has a rubber band, which is yet to be painted. Pair rollers have rubber inserts, you must not forget about them when it will be necessary to glue the rollers.

That's all I managed to collect for the first evening.

Video with the assembly process:

06.02.16.

Continuation of the construction of the early Tiger from the Modelist.

This time I started on the upper part of the case. According to the instructions, I separated the necessary sprues and tried them on dry, without glue. The fit is excellent, nothing needs to be adjusted yet. You can go on. Next is the trench tool. Similarly, I separated everything from the sprues, cleaned it and tried it on dry. The entire trench has its own grooves or markings on the body. It is very convenient and greatly simplifies the construction.

I decided not to glue the details of the hatches completely yet. I want to look at the photos and make sure that everything is done correctly. Because I plan to leave the hatches open.

I drilled the muzzle of the course machine gun with a mini-drill and a thin drill. So it will look better. It is worth paying attention to such little things, they improve the final appearance models.

Eyelets for tow hooks are attached to the grooves without glue.

On some parts there are marks from the pushers, which may be visible. Therefore, it is better to repair them, in my case, putty is best suited for this. It is better to use a special model putty. But if it is not there, then you can use wood putty or PVA-based putty.

The use of part D3 remained a mystery to me. There are no grooves or markings for installation for it. While I left it aside, I will study archival photos, maybe I will find where to glue it. Part B10 required some work, I had to cut off a millimeter and a half so that it would normally fall into place.

When the parts are adjusted, I started gluing them.

There was also a problem with the seat of the sledgehammer. It was located too close to the frontal armor. Because of this, the sledgehammer did not fit in its place. The grooves had to be puttied and the seats cut off at the very sledgehammer.

I glued a sheet of armor, a cover of the MTO compartment. And then the whole entrenching tool.

As I said, the sledgehammer had to be glued with a slight offset.

That's all I managed to do this time.

19.02.16

Continuation of the construction of the early Tiger from the Modelist. This time I took care of the back of the case.

An idea came to my mind when I tried on protective covers for a tank. I wanted to make them deformed and I decided to replace these parts with metal. To do this, I needed to take all the dimensions and transfer them to paper. And then transfer the drawing to the tin from the can. In principle, it was enough just to outline the main points and lines, and then carefully cut along them with scissors, and then use pliers to give them desired shape. And do the same for the second part. With the help of pliers, I also added traces of deformation and dents. And then I was carried away and at the same time I made the exhaust pipe cover from tin, and the fasteners from wire. I glued the casing to the plastic using super glue.

The next refinement I made was to simulate a weld. Previously, I moistened the surface to be treated with thick glue from the Star. And then, when the plastic softened, he squeezed out the seam with a sharp flat spatula. It didn't turn out quite the way I planned, but overall I was happy with the result. This option of applying welds can sometimes be used.

I also tried thick glue from Pacific88. According to subjective feelings, it is a little thinner and less aggressive to plastic compared to the glue from Zvezda.

With an old blade from a collet knife, I made an imitation of damage by fragments on the casing. And on the casings, I made an imitation of bolt fasteners. For this, I used a thinly elongated sprue, from which I cut the bolt heads.

The instructions from the modeler again let me down a bit. For a long time I could not understand why I could not find the necessary parts D7, D32, E20. Everything turned out to be simple, these parts had different numbers: D12, D31, D20. I found the correct numbers in the original instructions from the Academy.

This is roughly how I got it.

17.04.16.

Small building update.

I took an example from this archival photograph, I did not try to copy all the damage, but simply took them as a basis.

And he also made sections of side screens from pivzhest:

More details can be seen in the video:

16.05.16

I assembled the tower, but not yet completely.

While the tower was sticking together, I began to paint camouflage on one of the figures. Then I decided to try on the figures after gluing the two halves of the tower. And it turned out that the figures do not fit this tank at all. Either they need to be placed outside, or I don't know. I rummaged through the Internet and also did not find photos of this set with these figures.
So that they are located somehow more or less clearly. Therefore, I will not do this tank with figurines. These figures are postponed until better times. Perhaps I’ll attach them somewhere separately, or maybe I’ll leave them for experiments. So at this stage, the figurines have completely dropped out of this project.

Now I’ll tell you about the tower itself, what and how it happened. The two halves fit together quite well. There were practically no joints here. But the only thing that had to be strongly tightened after gluing, so that it fits well. Because without tightening there was a gap of 3-4 mm at the junction. This is the first minus on the tower.

After the halves were glued, I glued all the hatches. I worked this hatch, but since the figures are no longer supposed, I will most likely make it closed.

On the second hatch, I did not even begin to glue the internal detailing. Because the hatch will be closed.

According to the modifications on the tower that I did.
The first thing I did was add a weld along the top. I tried to make it for the first time from epoxylin (epoxylin moment). To be honest, I didn't really like it. I'll have to try something a little different later. And, if something interesting happens, I will most likely shoot a separate video about this.

I also replaced the standard plastic handrails with wire.

The next revision is the rear box. Here I added some debris damage, small dents. I did it experimentally, without much reference to the sample. What happened, happened. Maybe I'll work on something else later. As long as it looks like this.

The instructions upset me again. Where to attach plastic parts, on which spare tracks are then hung, is not at all clear. There are no markings for gluing on the tower itself either. We have the same thing with smoke bombs. Although the instructions themselves contain grooves where it is all installed. But nothing is molded on the plastic itself. I had to study photos on the Internet. This is another jamb on the tower itself.

The barrel itself stuck together quite well. Especially at the top. Strong processing was not required, the joints are practically invisible. And after priming and painting, I think it will not be visible at all.

For the second run, the following was done.

He hung smoke grenades. I welded the fasteners themselves. Added simulated wiring. Including the grenades themselves.

I glued the tank gun completely. Glue the back box. Didn't finish anything else here.

And glued mounts for spare tracks. Found the location on the internet.

But since there were no lower mounts, I had to invent them myself. It didn't work out the way it actually looked. But, since the task of making a copy machine is not worth it, I made a simplified version. I drilled each track so that a pin could be inserted.

I cut out plates from model plastic (0.3 mm thick).

And he inserted hooks from the wire, on which the tracks are hung.
I also tried to make welding here, a small imitation of a weld.

And similarly from this side. There are only five trucks here.

At the end I just glue them on.

At the end, normal photos to see what was done:

29.05.16.

The final stage of the assembly of the early Tiger.

What I have done, redid.
Although I thought last time that the work on it was completed, some details came to light. First, I added these loops (limiters) to the spare track holders.

It also turned out that there should be holes on the tracks. I looked for photos, it really is. So I drilled them out, every spare track on the turret and tracks from the frontal armor.

Imitated headlight wiring, which is not included in the kit. I made it with wire and self-adhesive foil.

I also added small fasteners for the part on the side of the tank. I took a photo of real equipment, although according to the instructions it is attached directly to the case. And then, according to the instructions, I made a mount for spare tracks on the forehead of the tank. I glued all the hatches, glued all the entrenching tools: a shovel, towing cables, a cable for tensioning tracks and the rest.

The assembly is fully completed, the tank is ready for painting.

Now as for painting. Painting, as announced, will be done with Pacific88 paints. And I chose the camouflage option. I have never applied camouflage, so it will be doubly interesting.

10.06.16

It's time to paint the early Tiger.

The first thing I covered with primer, I used the primer from Pacific88 - P10 red-brown.

After the primer dried, I moved on to applying the base color.

I mixed the base color from F-11 "yellow sand" and F-28 "protective". To get a dark yellow tint. Based on the XF-60 “dark yellow” color from Tamiya. Visually, the color turned out to be similar to what I planned. Final proportions: 5 parts F-11 and 2 parts F-28. For the tracks, I want to try the F-113 “rusty tracks” paint. And for the bandages of the rollers I will try the F-05 old tires.

After painting in the base color, the Tiger looks like this:

It's time to apply camouflage.

I showed the camouflage scheme earlier when I was deciding on the prototype. But along the way, I decided to do another option. With blurry borders and without the use of masks. I’ll make a reservation right away that there is no historical connection to a specific car, and camouflage is for the most part a flight of my imagination. Although this is the basis:

For this camouflage, I need three colors. It's a deep yellow (a base that I've already applied), red-brown and protective.

The moment was exciting, doing it for the first time. Therefore, he himself was not completely sure that something would turn out. I started by applying green stripes, and then added red-brown stripes.

Tip: when applying camouflage without masks, it is best to work at low pressure and keep the airbrush close to the model.

It turned out something like this:

On this today I will finish, and further work will be next time.

19.06.16.
And today, the continuation of work with the early Tiger.

Did some work on the bugs. There was a lot of overspray in places, which I corrected. I also went over the base color to add demarcation of the stripes. I also dusted the entire surface of the tank. I applied the base color from a long distance with an airbrush. To muffle the variegated camouflage.

I then applied Pacific88's V-04 semi-matt varnish and prepped the tank for the filter. I applied a brown filter from Wilder NL-12. The filter from Wilder seems to me to be too concentrated and I recommend diluting it with mineral spirits before use. So that the filter does not greatly overlap the colors on the tank, but only slightly changes its tone. I dilute it by about a third.

For application, you will need a flat brush of medium hardness. The filter will help to further smooth out the camouflage colors and even out the overall tone. As a rule, the filter is the first stage of toning the model. If the effect of applying the filter in one pass does not suit you, then you can always apply a second, third (any number) layer of the filter. You can also use different colors filters sequentially applied to the model.

Combined photo to see the result of the work on the errors + already applied the filter

While the filter was drying, I took up the caterpillars. To simulate track wear, I used Pacific88 M-03 “steel” paint, applied with a dry brush. I forgot to take a photo, you can see it in the video.

After the filters, I covered the tank with a glossy varnish. You can apply decals and at the same time a entrenching tool. After that, I will go over the glossy varnish over the entrenching tool and decals again. And then you can move on to washing. I painted the trench in the base color, it will still change a little after the oil dots, washes, and maybe I will correct it.

I will apply the decals to the variant of the “das Reich” division Kursk 1943. Accordingly, the tail numbers are S13, small crosses on the sides and back, plus the division emblem in two places. I would like to add about the decals. Their backing is quite thick and a little silvery after gluing. I hope that after another coat of varnish it will be better. Or you will have to hide it with subsequent effects.

Finished again with Pacific88's V-01 Gloss Lacquer. I went through the entrenching tool and decals. The decals look better, but the backing is still visible.

Washing used two types. First wash NL-02 from Wilder. She basically walked through the cables, through the entrenching tool and that's it. And a homemade wash based on oil paints (black and brown) on white spirit. I already went through all the other places with her.

It's time for the final stage. According to the plan, the effect of oil dots (weathering), then chips, smudges and, at the very end, pigments.

The main task of oil dots is to show the impact of nature on technology. Such as paint fading, smudges of dust and dirt, the weathering process. For application, you will need two brushes - round for applying dots and flat for blending. To grind them, you need white spirit (I use Tikkurila 1050). They can also clean the brush. On vertical surfaces, the dots are shaded from top to bottom. On horizontal it is desired in a circular motion.

Oil paints from Wilder were used, I tried them for the first time And also ordinary art oil paints, the colors that I do not have from Wilder. At first glance, Wilder oil is very liquid and flowing compared to art oil. I don’t know yet how good or bad it is, but I am satisfied with the result. Experiments began with one of the boards, because. there is a bare minimum of detail.

With Light Dust oil I tried to create a light dusting effect. The base color has become even more muted, the camouflage has evened out, and a dusting effect has appeared. After the oil dried, the effect changed a little more.

It's time to chip.

I applied the chips in two stages, or rather using two colors. For the base coat I used Pacific88 Sandy Yellow F-11, and for the top coat I used Pacific88 Chips F-129. Applied with a fine brush #1. The process is long, painstaking, so you need to be patient and not rush anywhere. After the first layer of chips is applied, you need to go over the same places, about 90% of the places, and apply the second color of the chips. The most important thing in chipping is to stop in time and not overdo it. Otherwise, it will not look very good, the measure is important here. I hope I stopped in time 🙂

Well, this is how the chips look after applying the second layer. I myself like the result.

The final stage of work with the tank.

Accordingly pigments. Pigments from Wilder and homemade pigments from ground pastel crayons were used.

The main front of the work was as follows: a little dusting on top of the hull and turret, a little dirt on the suspension and rollers. Lightly soil the front and rear along the bottom of the case. And of course, you need to add pigments to the tracks and spare tracks.

The vinyl tracks had to be fiddled with to get the right shape. In the area of ​​​​the necks of the fuel tanks, I added smudges.

Satisfied with the result. Pacific88 paint did not disappoint.

All the details of the final stage in the video:

This completes the work on the early Tiger from the Modeller. And there are many interesting new construction projects ahead and, of course, the continuation of construction .