Relay regulator for 3 voltages. Automotive generator voltage regulators. How to check the relay - regulator without removing it from the car

The relay-regulator of a car, despite its compactness, is one of the key components of the “generating” part of automotive electrical equipment. Its serviceable condition is necessary for normal current operation.

The relay operates in the charging current flow circuit and limits its value by controlling the generator output voltage, preventing the battery from overcharging.
The use of the relay is determined by the fact that the voltage taken from the automobile generator varies significantly depending on the engine shaft speed and the degree of load created by the onboard consumers. The generator power is calculated for the maximum load. Therefore, when operating with reduced current consumption output voltage exceeds the specified value, which adversely affects battery life.

The principle of operation and purpose of the relay

The classic relay-regulator contains a control winding, which is connected in parallel with the battery, and normally closed working contacts, through which the battery receives the charging current. When the threshold voltage is exceeded, the relay is activated, cutting off the supply of increased voltage to the battery.
The relay acts as a voltage stabilizer. The term used to designate it describes the principle of operation of the first voltage stabilizers of the on-board network introduced in production cars.

The design of the relay-regulator and external signs of its malfunction

Relay-regulator:

1. It can be made in the form of one of the modules of the brush assembly, using its construct as a bearing base.
2. Or it is a separate element mounted on the body on a bracket.

The use of a separate version is easily visually detected due to the fact that the relay is in a break in the current flow circuit between the generator and the battery.
In any form of its execution, the relay is a non-separable monoblock element, the body of which is filled with epoxy or other sealant. This means that the failed component cannot be repaired.

Failure of the relay-regulator is accompanied by undercharging or overcharging the battery.
Undercharging the battery will result in

• the engine starts to start badly;
• V severe cases the car turns out to be de-energized and the remaining charge is not enough even to turn on the dashboard indicators.

An unpleasant consequence of overcharging the battery is the boiling off of the electrolyte. At the same time, on its body in the area of ​​​​the terminals and on the terminals themselves appear white coating and drips.
External signs are not exhaustive, do not unequivocally indicate a malfunction of the relay. However, when they appear, a complex one is carried out, the list of procedures of which includes monitoring the health of the relay-regulator.

Checking with a multimeter without dismantling

Testing with a multimeter is an accurate diagnostic method. Forte appeal to this approach is high accuracy, comparative simplicity and convenience of performing testing procedures that do not require the dismantling of the relay. They come down to connecting the probes to the battery terminals and analyzing the instrument indicator readings.
The method is applicable to the relay in any form of its execution.

The verification algorithm is based on monitoring the voltage at the battery terminals at different engine speeds. To obtain the required accuracy, switch the multimeter to constant voltage mode and operate in the 20 V range or close to it. The probes of the device are connected to the battery terminals. Next, measure the voltage:

1. When the engine is running on idling after its 2-3-minute warm-up, the multimeter readings are 13.5 - 14 V.
2. With an increase in the shaft speed to medium (2500 rpm), the voltage will increase linearly by 0.2 - 0.3 V
3. If you press the gas pedal even harder, increase the shaft speed to 3500 - 4000 rpm and additionally turn on the high beam, then the voltage growth first sharply slows down, and then stops at 14.5 - 14.8 V.

In the absence of a stabilization effect and an increase in voltage to 16 V or even more, we conclude that the relay-regulator has failed and needs to be replaced.
When the measured voltage is not more than 11 - 12 V, be sure to clean the terminals and check the contacts, and then repeat the measurements again.

Checking the integral relay-regulator

In the case of the execution of the relay-regulator in the form of a brush assembly module, a combined check is carried out. For its implementation you will need:

• adjustable voltage source (its functions are performed by the charger);
• low power car bulb (for sidelights, direction indicators or interior lighting dome);
• several connecting wires.

Besides, . To do this, unscrew one or more (depending on the version) mounting bolts, remove the brush assembly, which we clean from graphite dust.
We connect an adjustable source to the input of the brush assembly, and a light bulb to its output, which coincides with the output of the relay. For some models of chargers, you will need to connect a battery in parallel with the output, otherwise the source will not turn on.
Next, turn on the source and change its output voltage, which is controlled by the built-in indicator or a multimeter.
Taking into account the fact that brushes conduct electric current well, and the relay can be in two states and has a threshold characteristic:

• at an input voltage of not more than 14.5 - 14.7 V, the light is on;
• if the specified value is exceeded, the relay is activated, which is indicated by the extinguished light.

If the lamp continues to burn at a voltage of 16 V or more, the relay is considered out of order and must be replaced.

Checking the relay with a collapsible brush assembly and execution as a separate module

Often you can test the relay-regulator as separate module, which eliminates the effect of a possible influence on the results of the remaining circuits of the vehicle's electrical equipment. This procedure is possible with the relay version:

• in the form of a separate built-in brush assembly module;
• in the form of an independent functional unit, which is mounted in the working position on the car body using a bracket.

In the first case, you will need to dismantle the brush assembly and additionally remove the relay from it. In the second case, the relay is disconnected from the wiring and removed from the mounting bracket for convenience.
The further procedure is identical to the previous case. The only difference is that the input of the object under test will be the direct input of the relay.

The decision on the need to replace the relay is made in a similar way, that is, if it fails or operates at a voltage of more than 16 V.
Strong point such a verification scheme is an unambiguous conclusion about the technical condition of the relay and the exact localization of the failure point.

Features of checking the relay of rear-wheel drive vehicles

Relay connection for most RWD cars(including the VAZ classics) is carried out according to a single-wire circuit, in which the mass takes over the functions of the second wire. This is taken into account when constructing the circuit by the fact that the control light and the minus of the source are connected directly to each other and additionally connected to the mass of the relay housing.
The rest of the verification procedures remain unchanged.

Conclusion

The process of checking the health of the relay-regulator is not technically complex and is carried out using the simplest devices. The practical implementation of these procedures, while being careful about connecting individual components electrical circuit requires a minimum level of specialized knowledge and vocational training.

The strength of testing methods: testing is carried out according to general scheme, and on cars of various brands, the process of its implementation differs only in individual details that take into account design features.
Due to the relative simplicity and high information content of the implementation results, it is advisable to combine the relay test with the control of the rest of the generator circuits.

Video: Voltage regulator. How can you check

Seal

If you have problems with the car battery, you should pay attention to the operation of the voltage regulator relay. What problems can be with the battery? It stopped charging from the generator and quickly discharges or, conversely, recharges. In this case, it is just necessary to check the generator voltage relay.

The voltage regulator relay should turn off at a voltage of 14.2-14.5 volts.

Why do you need a voltage regulator in a car

This small simple device performs an important function - voltage regulation. That is, if the voltage is greater than the set value, the regulator must reduce it, and if the voltage is less than the set value, the regulator must raise it.

What voltage does the alternator relay regulate?

The running engine ensures the operation of the generator, which generates and transmits voltage electric current battery.

If the voltage regulator does not work properly, the car battery quickly drains its resource. The regulator is sometimes called a pill or a chocolate bar.

Types and types of relay regulators

Depending on the type of relay, the method of determining the operability also depends. Regulators are classified into 2 types:

• combined;
• separate.

Combined relays - this means that the relay itself with the brush assembly is located in the generator housing.

Separate relays - this means that the relay is placed outside the generator housing and is mounted on the car body. They probably saw a small black device attached to the wing of the car, wires from the generator go to it, and from it to the battery.

A distinctive feature of regulators from other devices is that the relays consist of a non-separable housing. During assembly, the body is glued with sealant or special resin. It makes no sense to disassemble and repair it, since such electrical devices are inexpensive.

Symptoms

If the voltage is low, the battery will not be able to charge. Thus, the battery will quickly sit down.

If, after the relay-regulator, the voltage to the battery goes high (higher than expected), then the electrolyte will begin to boil and evaporate. In this case, a white coating appears on the battery.

What are the signs of a breakdown of the voltage regulator of the car's generator can be:

1. After turning the ignition key, the control lamp does not light up.
2. After the engine is started, the battery indicator does not go out on the instrument panel.
3. At night, you can observe how the light becomes brighter, then dimmer.
4. The internal combustion engine of the car does not start the first time.
5. If the engine speed becomes more than 2000, then all the dashboard lights may turn off.
6. Loss of engine power.
7. Battery boiling.

Reasons for relay malfunction

Reasons include the following observations:

1. Short circuit (short circuit) on any line of automotive wiring.
2. Broken diodes. The rectifier bridge is closed.
3. Battery terminals are incorrectly connected.
4. Water got inside the relay.
5. Mechanical damage to the hull.
6. Wear of brushes.
7. The resource of the relay has run out.

How to quickly and easily check the voltage regulator

Take a multimeter or voltmeter and measure the voltage at the battery terminals. The check is done in the following order:

1. Set the device to voltage measurement mode up to 20 V.
2. Start DVS.
3. At idle, measure the voltage at the battery terminals. In XX mode, engine speed is from 1000 to 1500 rpm. If the generator and voltage regulator are working, then the voltmeter should show a voltage of 13.4 to 14 volts.
4. Raise the engine speed to 2000-2500 rpm. Now the voltage value with a properly working generator and relay, the multimeter (voltmeter, tester) should show a voltage of 13.6 to 14.2 V.
5. Next, press the gas and bring the engine speed to 3500 rpm. The voltage of serviceable devices should be no more than 14.5 volts.

Minimum allowable voltage, which should give out a working generator and voltage regulator - this is 12 volts. And the maximum is 14.5 volts. If the device shows a voltage value of less than 12 V or more than 14.5 V, then the voltage regulator must be changed.

In new cars, basically, the relay is combined with the generator. This helps to avoid pulling individual wires and saves space.

How to test a combined relay

For example, consider the regulator of a VAZ 2110 car. To check if the relay is working, you need to assemble a circuit like in the figure.

Relay regulator VAZ 2110 - 37.3701:

• 1 - battery;
• 2 - output "mass" of the voltage regulator;
• 3 - voltage regulator;
• 4 - output "Sh" of the regulator;
• 5 - output "B" of the regulator;
• 6 - control lamp;
• 7 - output "B" of the voltage regulator.

When assembling such a circuit with a standard voltage of 12.7 volts, the light bulb should just glow.

If the regulator voltage is raised to 14-14.5 Volts, then the light should go out. If the lamp does not go out with this high voltage means the controller is faulty.

Checking the VAZ 2107 regulator

Until 1996, classic VAZ 2107 cars with code generator 37.3701 were equipped with an old-style voltage regulator (17.3702). If such a relay is installed, then it should be checked, as in the top ten (discussed above).

After 1996, they began to install a new generator of the G-222 brand (there is an integrated regulator RN Ya112V (V1).

Checking the Regulator Separately

Generator regulator G-222:

• 1 - battery;
• 2 - voltage regulator;
• 3 - control lamp.

To check, you need to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. With a normal operating voltage of 12 V, the bulb should just glow. If the voltage reaches 14.5 volts, then the light should go out, and when lowered, it should light up again.

Test relay type 591.3702-01

Relay test circuit:

Such old relay models are sometimes installed on the classic VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107, on GAZ, Volga, Moskvich cars.

The relay is attached to the body. It is checked in the same way as the previous ones. But, you need to know the marking of contacts:

• "67" is the minus (-) contact.
• "15" is a plus.

The verification process is the same. At normal voltage, 12 volts and up to 14 V, the light should be on. If lower or higher, the light should go out.

RR-380

The RR-380 brand regulator was installed on VAZ 2101 and VAZ 2102 cars. Adjustable voltage at controller temperature and environment(50±3)° С, В:

• at the first stage no more than 0.7
• at the second stage 14.2 ± 0.3
• Resistance between plug "15" and ground, Ohm 17.7 ± 2
• Resistance between plug "15" and plug "67" with open contacts, Ohm 5.65 ± 0.3
• Air gap between armature and core, mm 1.4 ± 0.07
• The distance between the contacts of the second stage, mm 0.45 ± 0.1.

Checking the three-level relay

As the name implies, such relays have three levels of voltage supply. This is a more advanced option. The voltage levels at which the battery will be disconnected from the voltage regulator can be set manually, for example: 13.7V, 14.2V, 14.7V.

How to check the generator

To check if it works, you need:

1. Disconnect the wires going to terminals 67 and 15 of the regulator.
2. Connect a light bulb to the wires. bypassing the relay.
3. Disconnect the positive battery terminal.

If the car does not stall, then the generator is working.

How to increase the resource of the relay

• Check alternator belt tension.
• Avoid severe contamination of the generator.
• Check contacts.
• Inspect the battery. If there is a white coating on the battery case, then the voltage from the relay is greater than the prescribed voltage and the electrolyte boils.

Video

Useful video for auto electricians.

How the generator and voltage relay work.

Good day! Today, we continue the topic of small electrical mechanisms (started in the last publication), which are essential in normal operation. vehicle. The object of our conversation will be such a mechanism as a generator voltage regulator relay (RRNG). At first glance, it may seem to you that you have not yet met such a detail, but this is probably not the case. If you had a chance to personally remove the generator, I'm sure you noticed a certain device on its back wall, fixed on two bolts, that's what it is. I hope you understand what I often mean, brushes are also present on it.

The failure of this relay, a frequent case, I personally had some kind of black bar, I changed them one by one and so 5-6 times. It was at that time that I had to learn more about him, thanks to which I managed to solve the problem. Okay, let's not talk about me, it's better about the relay that will restore required level charging current from the alternator and prevent battery damage. But for starters, well, you can’t ignore the generator itself, because RRNG is one of its main elements.

Automobile generator and its device

Absolutely any car generator produces only three-phase alternating voltage. This happens by rotating the rotor, modern models mostly spin to the right, but there are exceptions. Before you understand where that voltage comes from, consider all the details that make up the generator:

• Impeller - installed on the outside of the generator, in the front of the housing, serves to blow and, accordingly, cool the winding.
• Rear housing cover - closes access to the internal elements of the unit of dust, dirt and other contaminants. In addition, a protective cover can be installed on it, if one exists, the RRNG is installed behind it, as on the VAZ 2110.
• Rectifier block - consists of six diodes connected to each other in a bridge circuit.
• Rotor and excitation winding - rotates around its axis directly in the housing creating a magnetic field.
• The stator is also a body, three windings are placed on its body, interconnected with their help, it is possible not only to recharge the battery, but also to provide necessary nutrition vehicle network.
• Relay-generator voltage regulator - maintains the voltage in a certain range.

Development scheme AC voltage the generator looks like this: the rotor, rotating (and with it the magnetic field) from the efforts of the crankshaft, constantly changes polarity, this happens due to the fact that the excitation winding is always under low voltage, because the generator is connected to the battery. Rotating around its axis, the rotor on the terminals forms an alternating current, which is supplied to the winding by excitation. That is, you understand, yes, the belt on the generator is put on so that the rotor spins, in a standing position, it is not able to create a magnetic field. Graphite brushes and slip rings are directly involved in this process.

When the electricity is generated, it must be rectified, a diode bridge takes over. And everything would be fine, but with an increase in the speed of the rotor, the current also increases, here it is on main stage the generator voltage regulator relay connected to the output of the unit comes out. It reacts to all changes and sends the data to the comparing device, where the standard readings are analyzed with the received ones. After that, the signal is sent to the control device, from where it is fed to the actuator.

Please note: in the event of a decrease in the rotor speed, RRNG increases the current level to the required output value.

weak point of the generator

I think it’s clear now whether you have an injector or even a diesel engine, this relay will definitely be present on the generator, otherwise the latter simply won’t be able to perform its functions without it. So, brushes, rings and the RRNG itself are the most vulnerable node in the generator. Why? Everything is very simple where the constant regulator is located high level vibration, which greatly increases the risk of damage. Well, the brushes, they are graphite, which means they will definitely be erased over time.

Therefore, you, as a responsible driver, must constantly monitor the performance of the generator voltage regulator relay or problems cannot be avoided.

Now in more detail - the purpose and principle of operation of the RRNG

In order for you to understand exactly why there is a regulator in the generator, I will give a small example. Suppose, dear friends, we take and connect the excitation winding to the power source, without RRNG, what will happen with the voltage? How do you think? Do not know? And I'll tell you the current level will jump in a wide range, somewhere in the range of 10-30 volts. Imagine if such a voltage comes out of the generator, there is a radio tape recorder, and all the electrics will burn out, because it is designed for exactly 12 volts. Why this happens, I have already said - the more often the crankshaft rotates, and with it the rotor, the higher the voltage. The generator voltage regulator relay eliminates the possibility of too high current output, now I think it’s clear.

Let's go further, consider the principle of operation of the electrical RRNG, although mechanical ones are still found, they cannot withstand criticism for a long time. By and large, the relay-regulator is a kind of on/off switch. See for yourself, the fixed voltage level limit ranges from 13.5-14.2 volts. That is, when the current increases to these indicators, the regulator disconnects the rotor winding from the common circuit and, vice versa, connects it when it decreases. Thus, the circuit is constantly switched at a high frequency, so that the generator is able to generate a stable voltage.

Varieties of the relay-regulator

For any car, including VAZ, you can buy RRNG various types. And even in Lately semiconductor models are especially popular, we will consider all existing ones.

• Two-tier - despite the fact that given type the relay is considered obsolete, many motorists continue to use it. The "foundation" of such devices is an electromagnet connected to the sensor by a winding. The springs perform the function of a master device, and a small movable lever acts as a comparator, which performs switching. Constant resistance - the control body, the contact group - the actuator. The main disadvantage of two-level sensors is their short service life, both motorists and experts talk about this.

• Electronic - they, as you probably already understood, are also called semiconductor. These are more advanced and durable devices, we have already talked about them before.

• Three-level regulator - the design of the mechanism is not much different from those described above, only in that there are several additional resistances.

• Multilevel - mechanisms equipped with 3, 4 and even 5 additional resistances, there are options that can function in a tracking mode. Such models are one of the latest creations of the developers, hence the slightly corresponding price.

On average, a running semiconductor relay-regulator will cost you at least 300-400 rubles. And my advice to you, buy two at once, let it be in reserve, because this is one of those details that will not interfere with the driver on the road.

Installation and diagnostics of RRNG

Armed with an ordinary flat screwdriver, you will certainly be able to install the relay-regulator on the generator and remove it from there. Please note: you do not need to relax the belt to dismantle the generator, you do not need to remove it. First of all, do not forget to fold the positive terminal on the battery, you never know, so as not to close anything. Then everything is simple: disconnect the "mother" of the regulator from the "folder" and unscrew the two bolts, after which you can remove the mechanism itself. Next, you need to check it for a malfunction.

Immediately make sure that the brushes have normal length(not less than 5 mm). And only then get a voltmeter, or if there is none, an ordinary incandescent lamp will do and, most importantly, do not forget to grab a couple AA batteries, their connection is a must! The latter will help to get a total voltage of more than 15 volts, now you will understand what it is for. So, we connect the “plus” with an output to the RRNG, we fix the minus on the device case. We fix the lamp or voltmeter that you have there between the brushes, we don’t touch the batteries yet, we use only the battery. In this state, the voltage between the brushes should be!

If you add two batteries to the circuit and get a total voltage of more than 15 volts, there should be no voltage between the brushes! Otherwise, feel free to send your regulator to the trash!

Summing up, I demand from you, as from responsible motorists - always control technical condition relay regulator. In another case, do not be surprised if at one fine moment you fail, at least - the battery, maximum - the entire on-board system. I hope we understand each other. If so, I'm leaving, if not, read the article again! See you soon!

A generator voltage regulator relay has been created to correct the "voltage" output to the on-board network and to the battery terminals in the specified range of 13.8 - 14.5 V (less often up to 14.8 V). In addition, the regulator corrects the voltage on the self-excitation winding of the generator.

The purpose of the voltage regulator relay

Regardless of the length of service and driving style, the owner of a car cannot provide the same engine speed at different times. That is, the crankshaft of the internal combustion engine, which transmits torque to the generator, rotates with different speed. Accordingly, the generator generates different voltage, which is extremely dangerous for the battery and other consumers of the on-board network.

Therefore, the replacement of the generator regulator relay should be carried out when the battery is undercharged and overcharged, the light is on, the headlights flash, and other interruptions in the power supply of the on-board network.

The relationship of auto current sources

There are at least two sources of electricity in a vehicle:

• battery - is necessary at the time of starting the internal combustion engine and the primary excitation of the generator winding, does not create energy, but only consumes and accumulates at the time of recharging
• generator - feeds the on-board network at any speed and feeds the battery only at high speeds

Both of these sources must be connected to the on-board network for the correct operation of the engine and other consumers of electricity. In the event of a generator breakdown, the battery will “stretch” a maximum of 2 hours, and without a battery, the engine that drives the generator rotor will not start.

There are exceptions - for example, due to the residual magnetization of the excitation winding, the regular GAZ-21 generator starts up on its own under the condition of constant operation of the machine. You can start a car “from a pusher” if a DC generator is installed in it; such a trick is impossible with an AC device.

Voltage regulator tasks

From the school physics course, every motorist must remember the principle of the generator:

• with mutual movement of the frame and the surrounding magnetic field it generates an electromotive force
• stators serve as an electromagnet of DC generators, EMF, respectively, occurs in the armature, the current is removed from the collector rings
• the armature is magnetized in the alternator, electricity is generated in the stator windings

In a simplified way, it can be imagined that the magnitude of the voltage output from the generator is affected by the value of the magnetic force and the speed of rotation of the field. The main problem of DC generators is burning and sticking of brushes when removing currents from the armature. large size– solved by switching to alternating current generators. The excitation current supplied to the rotor to excite the magnetic induction is an order of magnitude lower, it is much easier to remove electricity from a stationary stator.

However, instead of terminals "-" and "+" permanently located in space, car manufacturers received a constant change in plus and minus. Recharging the battery with alternating current is not possible in principle, so it is pre-rectified with a diode bridge.

From these nuances, the tasks solved by the generator relay smoothly follow:

• current adjustment in the excitation winding
• maintaining the range of 13.5 - 14.5 V in the on-board network and at the battery terminals
• cutting off the power supply of the excitation winding from the battery when the engine is turned off

Therefore, they also call the voltage regulator a charging relay, and a signal lamp for the battery recharging process is displayed on the panel. In the design of alternators, the cut-off function reverse current set by default.

Varieties of relay regulators

Before you make an independent repair of the voltage regulation device, you must consider that there are several types of regulators:

• external - increase the maintainability of the generator
• built-in - in the rectifier plate or brush assembly
• regulating by minus - an additional wire appears
• positive control - economical connection scheme
• for alternating current generators - there is no voltage limiting function on the field winding, since it is incorporated in the generator itself
• for DC generators - an additional option to cut off the battery when the internal combustion engine is not running
• two-level - obsolete, rarely used, adjustable with springs and a small lever
• three-level - supplemented with a special board for a comparing device and an agreement signaling device
• multilevel - the circuit has 3 - 5 additional resistors and a tracking system
• transistor - not used in modern cars
• relay - improved feedback
• relay-transistor - universal circuit
• microprocessor - small dimensions, smooth adjustment of the lower / upper threshold
• integral - built into the brush holders, therefore they are replaced after abrasion of the brushes

Attention: Without modification of the circuit, the "positive" and "minus" voltage regulators are not interchangeable devices.

Relays for DC generators

Thus, the connection diagram of the voltage regulator during the operation of the DC generator is more complicated. Since in the parking mode of the car, when the internal combustion engine is turned off, it is necessary to disconnect the generator from the battery.

During diagnostics, the relay is checked for the performance of its three functions:

• battery cut while car is parked
• limiting the maximum current at the generator output
• voltage regulation for excitation winding

Any malfunction requires repair.

Alternator relay

Unlike the previous case, do-it-yourself diagnostics of the alternator regulator is a little easier. The design of the "automobile power plant" has already included the function of cutting off the power supply during parking from the battery. It remains to check only the voltage on the excitation winding and at the output from the generator.

If there is an alternating current generator in the car, it cannot be started by accelerating from a hill. Since there is no residual magnetization on the exciting winding here by default.

Built-in and external regulators

For a motorist, it is important to know what they measure and begin to regulate the voltage of the relay at a particular place of their installation. Therefore, the built-in modifications act directly on the generator, while the remote ones “do not know” about its presence in the car.

For example, if a remote relay is connected to the ignition coil, its operation will be aimed at regulating the voltage only in this section of the on-board network. Therefore, before you learn how to check the remote type relay, you should make sure that it is connected correctly.

Control by "+" and "-"

In principle, the control schemes for "minus" and "plus" differ only in the connection diagram:

• when mounting the relay in the “+” gap, one brush is connected to the “ground”, the other to the regulator terminal
• if you connect the relay to the “-” gap, then one brush must be connected to the “plus”, the other to the regulator

However, in the latter case, another wire will appear, since the voltage relay is an active type device. It requires individual power, so the “+” must be brought separately.

Two-level

On initial stage mechanical two-level voltage regulators with simple principle actions:

• current flows through the relay
• the resulting magnetic field attracts the lever
• the comparing device is a spring with a given force
• when the voltage increases, the contacts open
• less current is supplied to the exciting winding

Mechanical two-level relays were used in VAZ 21099 cars. The main disadvantage was work with increased wear of mechanical elements. Therefore, these devices were replaced by electronic (non-contact) voltage relays:

• voltage divider assembled from resistors
• the zener diode is the driving device

Complicated wiring and insufficiently effective voltage control have led to a decrease in demand for these devices.

Three-level

However, two-level regulators, in turn, also gave way to more advanced three-level and multi-level devices:

• voltage goes from the generator to a special circuit through a divider
• information is processed, the actual voltage is compared with the minimum and maximum threshold value
• the error signal regulates the strength of the current supplied to the exciting winding

Relays with frequency modulation are considered more advanced - they do not have the usual resistances, but the frequency of operation of the electronic key is increased. Management is carried out by logic circuits.

The principle of operation of the regulator relay

Thanks to the built-in resistors and special circuits, the relay is able to compare the amount of voltage generated by the generator. After that, too high a value turns off the relay so as not to recharge the battery and damage the electrical appliances connected to the on-board network.

Any malfunctions lead precisely to these consequences, the battery of the battery fails or the operating budget increases sharply.

Summer/winter switch

Regardless of the season and air temperature, the operation of the generator is always stable. As soon as its pulley starts to rotate, the electric current is generated by default. However, in winter, the inside of the battery freezes, it replenishes the charge much worse than in summer.

The summer / winter switches are either located on the voltage regulator housing, or the corresponding connectors are signed with this designation, which you need to find and connect wiring to them, depending on the season.

There is nothing unusual in this switch, these are just rough settings for the regulator relay, which allow you to increase the voltage at the battery terminals to 15 V.

Connection to the onboard network of the generator

If, when replacing a generator, you connect a new device yourself, you need to take into account the nuances:

• first, you should check the integrity and reliability of the wire contact from the car body to the generator housing
• then you can connect terminal B of the regulator relay with the “+” of the generator
• instead of "twisting", starting to warm up after 1 - 2 years of operation, it is better to use soldering wires
• the factory wire must be replaced with a cable with a minimum cross section of 6 mm2, if an electrical appliance is installed instead of a standard generator, designed for a current of more than 60 A
• the ammeter in the generator / battery circuit shows the power of which power supply source in this moment higher in the onboard network

Ammeters are the necessary devices with which you can determine the charge of the battery and the performance of the generator. Without special reasons, it is not recommended to remove them from the scheme.

External controller connection diagrams

The remote relay of the generator voltage regulator is mounted only after finding out which wire break it should be connected to. For example:

• on old RAF, Gazelles and Bulls, relay 13.3702 is used in a polymer or steel case with two contacts and two brushes, they are mounted in the “-” circuit break, the terminals are always marked, “+” is usually taken from the ignition coil (B-VK terminal) , contact Ш of the regulator is connected to the free terminal of the brush assembly
• in the Zhiguli, white and black relay regulators 121.3702 are used, there are double modifications in which, if one device fails, the operation of the second device continues by simply switching to it, it is mounted in the “+” gap with terminal 15 to the output of the B-VK ignition coil, terminal 67 is attached to the brush assembly with a wire

Car enthusiasts call built-in relay-regulators "chocolates" marked Ya112. They are mounted in special brush holders, pressed with screws and additionally protected by a cover.

On VAZ cars, the relays are usually built into the brush assembly, full marking YA212A11, connected to the ignition switch.
If the owner changes the standard generator on an old domestic VAZ to an AC device from a foreign car or a modern Lada, the connection is made according to a different scheme:

• the motorist decides on his own the issue of fixing the body
• the analogue of the “plus” terminal here is the contact B or B +, it is connected to the on-board network through an ammeter
• remote relay regulators are usually not used here, and the built-in ones are already integrated into the brush assembly, a single wire comes out of them marked D or D +, which is connected to the ignition switch (to the B-VK coil terminal)

For diesel internal combustion engines, the W terminal may be present in the generators, which is connected to the tachometer; it is ignored when installed on a car with a gasoline engine.

Connectivity Check

After installing a three-level or other relay-regulator, a performance check is necessary:

• engine starts
• the voltage in the on-board network is controlled at different speeds

After installing the alternator and connecting it according to the above scheme, the owner can expect a "surprise":

• when the internal combustion engine is turned on, the generator starts, the voltage is measured at medium, high and low speeds
• after turning off the ignition with the key .... engine keeps running

In this case, the internal combustion engine can be turned off either by removing the excitation wire, or by releasing the clutch while pressing the brake. It's all about the presence of residual magnetization and constant self-excitation of the generator winding. The problem is solved by installing a light bulb in the gap of the exciting wire:

• it lights up when the generator is not running
• turns off after starting
• the current passing through the lamp is insufficient to excite the generator winding

This lamp automatically becomes an indicator of the presence of a battery charge.

Regulator Relay Diagnostics

It is possible to determine the breakdown of the voltage regulator by indirect signs. First of all, this is incorrect battery charging:

• overcharge - the electrolyte boils away, the acid solution gets on the body parts
• undercharging - the internal combustion engine does not start, the lamps burn to the floor

However, it is preferable to diagnose with devices - a voltmeter or tester. Any deviation from the maximum voltage value of 14.5 V (in some cars, the on-board network is designed for 14.8 V) at high speeds or the minimum value of 12.8 V at low speeds causes the regulator relay to be replaced / repaired.

Embedded

Most often, the voltage regulator is integrated into the generator brushes, so a level inspection of this unit is necessary:

• after removing the protective cover and loosening the screws, the brush assembly is removed from the outside
• when the brushes are worn (less than 5 mm of their length remains), replacement must be carried out without fail
• diagnostics of the generator with a multimeter is carried out complete with a battery or charger
• The "negative" wire from the current source closes to the corresponding regulator plate
• The "positive" wire from the charger or battery is connected to a similar relay connector
• the tester is set to the voltmeter mode 0 - 20 V, the probes are superimposed on the brushes
• in the range of 12.8 - 14.5 V, there should be voltage between the brushes
• when the voltage increases more than 14.5 V, the voltmeter needle should be at zero

In this case, instead of a voltmeter, you can use a lamp that should burn in the specified voltage range, go out when this characteristic increases more than this value.

The wire that controls the tachometer (marking W only on relays for diesel engines) is called by a multimeter in tester mode. It should have a resistance of about 10 ohms. If this value decreases, the wire is “broken”, it should be replaced with a new one.

remote

There are no differences in diagnostics for the remote relay, but it does not need to be dismantled from the generator housing. You can check the generator voltage regulator relay with the engine running, changing the speed from low to medium, then high. Simultaneously with the increase in speed, you need to turn on the high beam (at least), the air conditioner, monitor and other consumers (at the maximum).

Thus, if necessary, the owner of the vehicle can replace the standard voltage regulator relay with a more modern modification of the built-in or remote type. Health diagnostics are available in-house with normal car lamp.

If you have any questions - leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them.

The voltage regulator is an electronic device installed on automobile alternators to stabilize the input voltage to the battery. It should be between 13.2 - 14.5 volts. Deviations both up and down are unacceptable. This will already be a malfunction of the generator. In most cases, the voltage regulator is the culprit. This device, although small in size, but it is he who protects the battery from premature failure.

The first signs of a malfunction of the relay-regulator

How to test the alternator relay. The main symptom of alternator output voltage deviation is difficult starting of the engine. This is especially true during the cold season. Check the battery. It must be clean and dry. It should not have white discharge. If they are present, then the regulator may have failed, and the battery is being recharged, causing the electrolyte to boil.

The car has too bright glow of incandescent lamps. However, they often burn out. The interior of the car smells of burnt wiring. It is not uncommon for fuses to blow. When the headlights are on, the brightness of the light directly depends on the engine speed. All this suggests that the voltage regulator may have failed. It's just a regulator. By the way, difficult starting of the engine can be observed both with excessive and insufficient voltage.

Watch the charging current indicator light. It is located on the instrument panel. Lights up red with battery symbol. It can burn either at full heat or at half heat. When the engine is running, this indicates a malfunction of the generator.

An electrical malfunction of the generator can manifest itself in three ways:

1. The complete absence of any tension.
2. Severely low voltage.
3. Severely high voltage.

In case of any of the above problems, it is first of all recommended to check the operation of the generator relay-regulator.

Types of existing relay-regulators

A whole century has passed since the advent of automobiles. During this time, the regulators have changed their filling more than once and appearance. Consider first of all modern stabilizers, and then obsolete ones.

Regulators of our days are of two types:

built-in- these are attached directly to the generator housing and are produced combined with a brush assembly;

• separately fixed- attached to the body of the car.

Both types have non-separable cases and cannot be repaired. If the output voltage on the generator has deviations from the normal, and there is confidence that it is the stabilizer that is to blame, then in this case we simply change it to a new one.

Preliminary check

To test the generator voltage regulator, you will need a multimeter. We start the engine and measure the voltage of the generator with a multimeter. One probe measuring device we connect to terminal 30 of the generator (the same stud on the rear wall of the generator, to which there are usually two, sometimes three wires and are fixed with a nut). The voltage should be between 12.5 - 12.8 volts.

Then we start the engine and again take voltage measurements at the generator terminals. At idle, it should be at least 13.2 volts, but not more than 14 volts. Then we increase the engine speed to 3500 rpm, in this case the voltage limits should be within 14.2 - 14.5. The voltage should not exceed 14.8 volts. If it is higher, then the battery is being recharged.

Then we turn on the high beam headlights, the stove, the alarm and other devices and again measure the voltage on the generator. It will decrease under the load of the included devices, but the voltage value in this case should not be lower than 13.2 volts. If it is below the minimum - "undercharge".

In both cases, it is necessary to check the voltage stabilizer.

How to test the generator voltage regulator

A modern regulator, combined with a brush assembly, is used on most cars of foreign and domestic production. First, let's evaluate access to the generator. If it is difficult to access and inconvenient, then it would be better to remove it from the car. If access is free, then remove the relay from it without removing the generator. But before that, you must definitely remove the negative terminal from the battery.

The regulator is attached to the generator from the side of the rear cover, usually with two bolts. We unscrew them and carefully, so as not to damage the brushes, remove it, having previously disconnected the wires from it.

For further verification, we need either power unit, or a charger, a 12 volt calvania lamp. The main thing is that you can increase and decrease the voltage from 10 to 16 volts. If a charger is used for testing, then a battery will also be needed. The fact is that many chargers do not work without it.

Connecting the charger to the battery in normal mode. In addition, we connect a multimeter and two wires to the battery terminals. One for plus, one for minus. And connect them to the relay-regulator. The positive terminal of the regulator is a plug. Minus - a metal plate under one of the mounting holes. We connect the light bulb to the brushes with wires. The stand is ready, you can start checking. The power supply is connected in the same way, only without the battery.

We connect the charger to the external network and turn it on. Load regulator knob should be at the minimum level. We begin to slowly build up the tension. In this case, the glow of the light bulb should gradually increase. At a load of 12 volts or more, it should burn at full heat. We continue to smoothly raise the voltage until the light goes out, or the load reaches a value of 15 volts. If the regulator is working, then the light should go out at a voltage value of 14.2 -14.5. When the load drops, the light will turn on again.

If the bulb goes out to 14 volts, or a voltage of more than 14.8 volts is reached, and the bulb is still on, then such a regulator must be changed.

Testing a Separate Generator Voltage Regulator

In the same way, a stand-alone stabilizer is checked. Basically, it is mounted on the body in the engine compartment. But sometimes on the cover of the generator. In any case, unscrew it and connect it to the stand. Let, for example, it be a Ya112 V type stabilizer.

positive wire we connect to terminals "B" and "C", minus is fed to the case. We connect the control lamp to the terminals "B" and "Sh". Next, we do everything in the same way as with the combined stabilizer. We smoothly raise the load, when it reaches 14.5 volts, a cut-off should occur. If there is no cutoff, then change the regulator.

Checking outdated 591.3702-01

This obsolete relay type installed on almost all rear-wheel drive cars. It belongs to stand alone. Always attached to the body of the engine compartment. The wiring diagram for testing is slightly different from the one described above. The actions and essence of the check remain the same.

There are only two contacts here. The marking is made with the numbers "67" and "15". Contact number "67" is the negative terminal. Accordingly, "15" is a plus. Negative wire with charger fixed on the body of the device. We attach the positive one to terminal 15. We connect the wires of the control light: one on the case, the second and terminal "67". Our booth is ready for testing.

How to check the k1216en1 regulator with a multimeter

And finally, a few words about the k1216en1 relay. This regulator was installed on rear-wheel drive and front-wheel drive VAZs with injection engines. Given the fact that there are a lot of such cars in use throughout the post-Soviet space, it cannot be ignored.

This regulator belongs to the combined relay with brush assembly. Its preliminary and main check is carried out according to the method described above. There are no particular differences.

Always try keep the battery clean and a generator. Since contacts are often oxidized from moisture ingress. And this greatly interferes with the normal operation of all electrical equipment. Often, deviations in the charging current occur precisely from dirt. Well worth it clean contacts and terminals how the malfunction disappears by itself, without any replacements and repairs. Cleanliness is a guarantee good health not only for a person, but also for a car.

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