What made Jeanne Lanvin great. Lanvin - brand history and future activities

(Jeanne Marie Lanvin) (1867 - 1946) - French fashion designer. Fashion house founder Lanvin (Lanvin) in Paris.

Born in Paris, in 1867, in the family of journalist Constantine Lanvin (Constantin lanvin) . She was the first child in the family, later Jeanne had nine (according to other sources - ten) brothers and sisters. The level of family income was very modest, so already at the age of thirteen, Jeanne found a job as a clerk in the workshop of Madame Bonnie. After working there for three years, in 1883 she passed to Madame Felix (Madame Felix), whose atelier was located on the corner of the Rue Faubure Saint-Honoré (rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré) and Bussy d'Angleise (rue du Boissy d "anglas), and after some time in fashion house Suzanne Talbot (Suzanne Talbot).

Jeanne opened her first hat shop, which did not last long, in 1885. In the same year, the father of eighteen-year-old Jeanne signed a training contract with the dressmaker Marie-Berta Montague de Valenti. (Maria-Berta Montagne de Valentí), working in Barcelona (Maria-Bertha Montaigne de Valenti and her sister Caroline Montaigne de Valenti(Carolina Montagne de Valenti) are considered the pioneers of haute couture in Catalonia, who created the fashion atelier Montagne). Constantin Lanvin wanted his daughter to better master the craft of sewing, the contract was signed for three months, but the real friendship that arose between Maria and young Jeanne contributed to the fact that Jeanne Lanvin spent five years in Barcelona.

Returning to Paris in 1890, with the money she had earned, taking an additional amount on credit, Jeanne reopened the hat shop on the Rue Faubure Saint-Honoré.

In 1896 Jeanne married the Italian nobleman Emilio di Pietro. (Emilio di Pietro) but eight years later their union fell apart. In this marriage, the only daughter of Jeanne Lanvin, Marguerite Marie Blanche, was born. (Marguerite Marie Blanche di Pietro) who later became an opera singer. After marriage (husband - Count Jean de Polignac - Jean de Polignac) she was famous in Paris high society under the name of Marie-Blanche de Polignac (Marie Blanche de Polignac).

True joy, pride, muse and inspiration for Lanvin was the daughter. Marie Blanche was very gifted musically, Jeanne adored her and really wanted her daughter to be smartly dressed. She had the idea to create clothes for children in her atelier.

Marie Blanche often recalled that she played the role of a small fashion model on which her mother tried new models. The image of mother and daughter with their faces turned to each other has become a landmark for the Lanvin house.

At that time, clothes for children were only a more simplified version of clothes for adults. Jeanne began to create children's clothes, which became the basis of her fashion studio, these clothes were designed specifically for children, taking into account all their features. Clothing from Lanvin, invented for her daughter, began to attract the attention of many wealthy people who visited the studio, they asked to sew the same new clothes for their children. Children's clothing from Lanvin was distinguished by high quality workmanship, attention to detail, and the use of good fabrics. In the fashion house Lanvin, you could pick up everything for the child - casual clothes, elegant dresses, hats and muffs, fancy dresses.

In 1907 Jeanne remarried. Her husband was the journalist Xavier Mele (Xavier Melet). Both of them traveled a lot. New impressions contributed to the birth of new ideas. Zhanna brought a lot of different fabrics from her trips, creating a so-called “library of fabrics” at home.

Starting in 1909, Zhanna also took up clothes for adult ladies, often creating ensembles for both mother and daughter at the same time. She joined the Haute Couture Syndicate, becoming a full-fledged couturier. The First World War temporarily slowed down the development of the fashion house, but immediately after its end, its activities unfolded with renewed vigor.

The real fame came to Jeanne Lanvin in the 1920s. By 1918, she completely occupied the building on Faubure Saint-Honoré. Her apartment, and atelier, and workshops were located there - in particular, two embroidery workshops, which was a novelty in that era (often fashion houses gave orders that were difficult to work with, embroidery or other decoration, somewhere on the side).

Starting in 1915, after visiting the San Francisco World's Fair, she regularly visited the United States. Like several other couturiers, she quickly realized the importance of the American market for Parisian fashion. Things were going well in the fashion house, and by the beginning of the next decade, Lanvin became a wealthy and famous person.

Despite the fact that, in general, the silhouettes of the clothes she produced were subject to the general fashion trends of her time, she could, if she considered it necessary, step aside and offer something else. An example of this is Lanvin women's dresses, called "robe de style", which can be translated both as "old dress" and as "stylish dress". In the 1920s, when thin, almost boyish female figures with small breasts, an implicit waist and narrow hips came into fashion, not all women could afford the clothes that were created for them, even if they tried to lose weight. And then Jeanne Lanvin suggested another option. As Vogue magazine wrote in 1923, "the outfits from the portraits of Winterhalter fascinate us again, the pinnacle of Lanvin's success is the creation of similar dresses for middle-aged women." Over the years, some details have changed, but the main elements remained the same - a slightly low waist, fluffy skirt. Many of the skirts were puffy on the sides but relatively flat in front and back, evoking memories of the 18th century with its tankins skirts and portraits by Velázquez. (Cain Ramirez Velasquez) with infants in wide skirts. Colors, fabrics, width and length of the skirt changed, but romantic outfits were still worn with pleasure not only by mature ladies, but also by their daughters. They remained popular until the late 1930s.

Lanvin paid a lot of attention to color. Thus, a magnificent shade of blue, known as "blue Lanvin", entered the history of fashion. The inspiration for the creation of this shade, according to one account, was the color that is found in the frescoes of Fra Angelico (Fra Beato Angelico), an outstanding master of the early Renaissance, according to others - cobalt blue of medieval stained-glass windows. Often, in search of new colors, she turned to the masters of painting - Fragonard (Jean-Honoré Fragonard), Fantin-Latour (Henri Fantin-Latour), Degas ( Edgar Degas), Renoir (Pierre-Auguste Renoir).

In 1923 Lanvin she opened several factories of her own for dyeing fabrics, striving to achieve the shades she needed, for example, pink, named after her daughter "pink Polignac", or green, called "green Velazquez".

In 1923 the house Lanvin launched a line of women's casual wear Lanvin sport. Simple and at the same time creative outfits were sewn from comfortable fabrics, many models were intended for recreation and sports. The Lanvin house created swimwear, ski sets, golf and tennis clothes.

In 1923, the Lanvin company opened home decor stores.

In 1925, when the World Exhibition dedicated to the Art Deco style was held in Paris, Jeanne Lanvin was appointed vice-president of the Pavilion of Elegance, which testified to the recognition of her merits by her colleagues. A year later, she was awarded the Order of the Legion of Honor. (in 1938 Lanvin became an officer of the order). By that time, the Lanvin company was already a whole empire - more than eight hundred employees, twenty-three ateliers, stores in Paris, Deauville, Biarritz, Barcelona and Buenos Aires.

In 1924 the firm Lanvin took up the creation of perfumery. In 1925, she released her first fragrance, My Sin, which was a huge hit, especially in the US.

A subsidiary of Lanvin Parfums SA quickly gained momentum, turned around and began to produce perfume products. The famous fragrance Lanvin Arpege, released in 1927, became a symbol of Jeanne's motherly love for her daughter, a logo created on the perfume bottle by the famous artist Paul Iribe (Paul Iribe)- A woman holding hands with a little girl. This, of course, was Jeanne herself with her daughter, and a photograph taken in 1907 served as the source of the idea.

Since 1926 in the house Lanvin began to make men's clothing, although back in the 1900s she made costumes for many writers of that time - Edmond Rostand (Edmond Rostand), Paul Valery (Paul Valery), Georges Duhamel (Georges Duhamel) André Maurois. Also, departments of underwear and fur products were opened in the fashion house.

Shortly before her death, she said: “For many years, those who have seen my collections have been trying to define Lanvin's style. I know this is often discussed. However, I have never sought to be limited to any particular type of clothing, nor have I sought to develop certain style. On the contrary, I put a lot of effort into capturing the mood of each new season and using my own interpretation of the events taking place around me in order to turn another fleeting idea into something tangible.

She died in Paris in 1946 when she was 79 years old. Her daughter, the Countess of Polignac, continued her mother's work. She was the director of the firm until 1958, until her death. Marie Blanche had no children and was taken over by her cousin Yves Lanvin (Yves Lanvin).

In March 1989, the British Bank Midland bought the entire package of assets from the Lanvin family, and in February 1990 he got rid of the loss-making enterprise and resold it to the French holding Orcofi, owned by the Vuitton family.

In 1994, 50% of the shares Lanvin passed to the cosmetics company L'Oreal, and in 1996 the rest of the assets were transferred to it.

In August 2001, director Lanvin became Taiwanese media mogul Shou-Lan Wong (Shaw Lan Wang) head of the investor group Harmonie S.A. Israeli designer Alber Elbaz became the artistic director of all departments of the company. (Alber Elbaz). Under the leadership of Elbaz Dom Lanvin began to regain its former reputation.

Lanvin remains the leading French fashion house that creates pret-a-porte clothing.

Jeanne Lanvin

fashion apreggio

She may not have revolutionized fashion. Didn't invent the little black dress, didn't create a new cut or style. Nevertheless, the merits of Jeanne Lanvin before the world fashion are undoubted: she was the first who began to sew clothes for children, without copying her patterns from adult fashion. For a hundred years, Jeanne Lanvin's house has been offering its simple, refined and at the same time luxurious clothes to everyone who appreciates uniqueness, taste and quality.

The creator of the famous house, Jeanne-Marie Lanvin, was born in Paris on the most magical day - January 1, 1867. She was the eldest of eleven children in the family of journalist Constant Lanvin and his wife Sophie-Blanche Deshaiers. There were so many children that the fees of Monsieur Lanvin, a very talented journalist who was friends with many celebrities of his time, were barely enough to live on. So Zhanna had to leave all thoughts of a decent education since childhood: her only teachers were her parents and their friends, who sometimes spent a couple of hours talking to a smart little girl. Jeanne had to watch younger brothers and sisters, and work around the house. According to one of the legends, the famous writer Victor Hugo, a friend of Constant Lanvin, wrote his Cosette - the heroine of the novel Les Misérables - from Jeanne.

Since childhood, Zhanna loved to play with dolls - but not to play scenes with them family life, like other girls, but to sew clothes for them: the doll dresses that Zhanna made almost exactly repeated the outfits of rich ladies she met on the streets or in the newspaper office where her father worked. Over time, the mother, seeing her daughter's obvious talent, began to trust her to sew clothes for younger children.

Already at the age of thirteen, the girl was forced to go to work. First, she got a job in a hat workshop delivering orders to clients - little Jeanne spent days running around Paris with a dozen huge hat boxes - she had no money for a tram, and even more so for a cab. But two years later she was accepted as a seamstress in the rich atelier of the famous milliner Madame Felix. At the age of sixteen, Jeanne moved to the tailor Talbot's tailoring studio and proved to be so talented and executive that the owner even sent her for an internship in Barcelona, ​​which at that time was one of the centers of the artistic life of Southern Europe. After returning from Spain, Jeanne decided to start her own business.

In 1889, Jeanne Lanvin, with the help of a former client, opened her own hat shop on the rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré. At that time, hats were the main accessory of women's attire: huge and whimsically decorated, or small and deceptively modest, they without fail adorned every female head. Mademoiselle Lanvin offered her clients hats that not only met all the requirements of the latest fashion, but were also made with fantasy, sophistication and taste unusual for a simple girl. Pretty soon, her atelier became famous among Parisian fashionistas, and Mademoiselle herself acquired extensive acquaintances in high society. In the morning she delivered orders, during the day she stood behind the counter, and at night she worked alone on new hats. From such a life, she developed a habit of silence - repelling fans, but having clients who did not want to waste time on long conversations.

Once, on a walk, a friend of one of her clients introduced a young milliner to an elegant young man with the most refined manners and a slight slyness in his eyes. It was an Italian aristocrat, Count Henri-Jean Emilio di Pietro, a lover of horse racing and gambling. It is said that di Pietro was captivated by a pretty silent girl and was going to make a very close acquaintance with her - at that time it was customary among young people with means to have their own dressmaker or seamstress, and, of course, not at all for sewing needs. However, Jeanne did not like such a relationship - and Henri-Jean had to marry her. They married on February 20, 1896. The marriage was unsuccessful: having received what he wanted, di Pietro quickly exchanged the family hearth for a tote and a card table, but in 1897 Jeanne had a daughter named Marie Blanche, or Marguerite - in French, chamomile. It was the chamomile that later became the first emblem of the House of Jeanne Lanvin.

Jeanne Lanvin

Movie star Mary Pickford in Lanvin

In 1903 Jeanne and di Pietro divorced. The meaning of life for Zhanna was her adored daughter, a lovely girl and very gifted musically. Tired of the "dusty grayness of modernity" reigning in children's stores and on the streets, as one of the French poets put it - the fashion of those years loved muted, faded, as if faded tones, especially achromatic ones - Jeanne began to sew bright and joyful outfits for her daughter tones. In addition to the unusual color scheme, Zhanna - for the first time in a long time - sewed children's outfits not as copies of adult toilets, as was customary, but completely different from them, but comfortable for games and walks. The young Marguerite's toilets were so successful that Madame Lanvin's clients drew the attention of them, and soon many began to ask for something similar to be sewn for their own children. In 1908, Jeanne Lanvin introduced the first collection of children's clothing - in fact, she became the first fashion designer to design clothes specifically for children. She believed that children's clothing should not be either strict and prim or overly decorated - the first was boring, the second fettered and turned children, in her words, "from people into cream cakes." A year later, Madame Lanvin prepared a collection of clothes for women, both young and middle age- surprisingly, much of it was taken from children's clothing: in fact, then they did the opposite. The simple cut of Lanvin dresses, romantic style, bright and pure colors, laconic but childishly elegant dressing for young fashionistas and their mothers made an impression on Parisians and instantly gained popularity.

Jeanne Lanvin with her daughter and son-in-law

Jeanne Lanvin was the first dressmaker to dress women of all ages in uniform style while taking into account the characteristics of each age. Her ateliers were called "Mother and Daughter Stores" - emphasizing that they offered clothes for the whole family. Fashion historians have found that if each Lanvin collection offered about one and a half hundred items, each client bought an average of thirty. In 1909, Jeanne Lanvin joined the French Syndicate haute couture, officially receiving the status of a couturier.

Dresses from Lanvin were delicate and restrained, but, meanwhile, incredibly playful, romantic and feminine. Jeanne loved soft pastel colors - especially pink and lilac, smooth lines and flowing thin fabrics, with a delicate and graceful pattern, soft pleats, decolletes and feminine silhouettes. Her style is characterized by exquisite embroideries and appliqués, sumptuous beading and draperies. Her dresses were at the same time on the cutting edge of fashion, and beyond it. It is to this seemingly paradoxical quality that the House of Lanvin owes its success in the first place. Although Jeanne was one of the first to support the Paul Poiret revolution and abandoned corsets, she still remained conservative enough to sew dresses with a pronounced waist and ankle length even when garçon silhouettes came into fashion and hemlines were shortened to knee. In the end, it was precisely her feminine component that she loved in a woman - motherhood, the ability to love, tenderness and fragility - and androgyny, emancipation and athleticism that were not at all in vogue. Although historians call her herself among the first “new women”: Jeanne, who hired her own brothers to work in her atelier, represented an unusual type of working mother for that time, equally successful in business and in motherhood.

In 1907, Jeanne married a second time - this time her chosen one was the French journalist Xavier Mele, who works for the newspaper Les Temps. He belonged to the same environment as Jeanne's father, and she understood him perfectly. Together they traveled a lot - traveled almost all European countries, and everywhere Jeanne, in search of inspiration and for self-education, bought books, visited museums, flea markets and shops with fabrics - the many samples she brought from all over the world made up the famous “library of fabrics”, which was admired by generations of clients of her house and art historians. In one of her trips to Italy, Jeanne saw the frescoes of the famous early Renaissance artist Fra Angel and co - his extraordinary blue color made such an impression on Jeanne that she immediately introduced it into her collections, making it her signature color - “blue Lanvin”. Over time, Lanvin’s “green Velasquez” and “pink Polignac” diluted the traditionally pastel palette of Lanvin fabrics, in honor of the daughter who acquired this famous aristocratic surname in marriage, were added to it. In order to retain the exclusive right to these colors, in 1923 Jeanne founded dyers in Nanterre, working exclusively for her fashion house. But the clients of the house got the opportunity to order dresses of any, the most unthinkable shades.

Unfortunately, Jeanne did not find happiness in her second marriage either. The husband was more passionate about work than his wife: over time, he entered politics and achieved the post of French consul in Manchester. Jeanne, of course, could not leave her fashion house and move to England; their marriage gradually faded away, although both spouses retained respect for each other and met whenever possible. Disappointed in men, Zhanna focused her efforts on work, and love on her daughter. No wonder Louise de Vilmorin, novelist and longtime client of the House of Lanvin, wrote: "She impressed everyone with her work, but in fact she wanted to impress only her daughter." Marguerite was a very talented girl who was passionate about music and possessed beautiful voice. Over time, she made a good career as an opera singer, and later married Comte Jean de Polignac, nine years her junior.

Madame Lanvin was famous for her ability to capture the desires of the public, while remaining true to her own style. One of the first couturiers, she introduced oriental motifs into her models, decorating the hems and bodices of evening dresses with luxurious gold embroidery and appliqué. In 1915, at the height of the First World War, she proposed the so-called "military crinoline" - wide skirts with numerous frills that could satisfy the longing for a happy peacetime that gnawed at the Parisians.

A typical Lanvin dress, model 1924

Sketch by Jeanne Lanvin

At the same time, Jeanne, who has not forgotten her Barcelona internship, offers outfits in the Spanish style - Spain did not participate in hostilities and served as a symbol of a calm life for warring Europe. In 1919, Madame Lanvin sewed practical and at the same time elegant shirt dresses - this silhouette would become super popular only ten years later. And in the twenties, she was one of the first to use Russian motifs in her collections - coats with fur trim, dresses with embroidery, reminiscent of either peasant towels, or ceremonial vestments of Byzantine emperors, silhouettes similar to traditional Russian sundresses and dushegrey. A little later, the House of Lanvin became famous for the so-called robes de style, "stylish dresses" - long romantic dresses with puffy "crinoline" skirts in the style of the 1840s, which have no analogues in other fashion designers. Some researchers believe that Christian Dior's New Look was inspired by the memories of the "stylish dresses" of Jeanne Lanvin. And in the thirties, as soon as Marlene Dietrich began to appear in public in wide trousers, Madame Lanvin immediately offered the famous silk “palazzo pajamas” - elegantly casual suits for going out, suspiciously similar to home outfits.

By the mid-1920s, Jeanne Lanvin enjoyed such prestige that she was elected chairman of the Organizing Committee of the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts - the one that gave its name to the famous Art Deco style. She performed so successfully in this role that since then she has been repeatedly invited to lead such events: for example, in 1931 she led the directorate of the exhibition in Brussels, in 1939 - in New York and San Francisco. In 1926, for outstanding services, she was awarded the Order of the Legion of Honor - and twelve years later she was awarded the rank of officer of the Legion of Honor.

Jeanne Lanvin was known not only as a couturier, but also as a philanthropist, art connoisseur and art collector: Lanvin especially appreciated the Impressionists and Symbolists with their amazing colors - her collection included, for example, paintings by Auguste Renoir, Edouard Villard, Henri Fantin-Latour. At the beginning of the century, she was friends with the artist Odilon Redon, whose paintings, full of bright translucent colors and poetic images, had a considerable influence on the work of Jeanne herself. Some researchers believe that Jeanne Lanvin may have been last love an elderly artist, but there is no documentary evidence of this.

Jeanne started alone, and in 1925 more than eight hundred people work in her atelier. By the end of the thirties, Lanvin stores were operating in Biarritz, Deauville and Cannes, in Madrid and Buenos Aires. Zhanna already produced lines of sportswear, underwear and furs, and in 1926 a line of men's clothing began to appear. Although Madame Lanvin created her first men's suit back in 1901 for the famous Edmond Rostand, she did not dare to put men's fashion on stream for a long time: at the beginning of the century, men and women traditionally sewed from different tailors, besides, the outbreak of war and the post-war crisis noticeably reduced the male clientele of haute couture houses. At the same time, she launched a line of home furnishings with designer and architect Armand-Albert Rato. Their collaboration began with the fact that Rato designed the Lanvin mansion, and the result impressed her so much that she entrusted him with the design of two country houses and own boutique. But his most famous creation is, of course, a bottle for the famous Arpege perfume in the form of a ball of dark glass.

Marguerite, Marie-Blanche Lanvin

Edouard Villar. Portrait of Jeanne Lanvin, 1933

Jeanne Lanvin with her daughter Marguerite

The House of Lanvin began to produce its own perfumery in the early twenties, but only with the advent of the Swiss perfumer Andre Freiss did it achieve real success in this field. Freys liked to say that "Like love, perfume must conquer a woman at once." His first perfume My Sin - "my sin" - was a huge success. They say that when he was about to start working on the next perfume, he came to Madame Lanvin for instructions - and she, pointing to her daughter who played the piano, said only: “Think of Marie Blanche!” Amazing perfumes, an exquisite chord of rose, jasmine, mock orange, lily of the valley and honeysuckle, shimmering like piano passages, Marie-Blanche called Arpege - "Arpeggio", now considered one of the pinnacles of world perfumery, a legend and eternal classic. Rato created for them an unusual bottle, exquisite in its simplicity, decorated with a golden pattern of the famous Paul Irib. This artist, who worked for Coco Chanel and Paul Poiret, created several drawings of Jeanne and her daughter in an evening gown by the House of Lanvin back in 1922. Jeanne chose one of them as the emblem of the house: on it Jeanne and Marguerite stretch out their hands to each other.

Jeanne's models had amazing property- they knew how to look luxurious, while not overshadowing the personality of their wearer. The clients of the House of Lanvin were Hollywood stars and European monarchs, who ordered clothes from Lanvin for themselves and for their entire family. The Comtesse de Polignac, who became socialite and a well-known philanthropist, served as the best advertisement for her mother's fashion house - refined and romantic, she attended social events around the world exclusively in dresses from Lanvin.

Sketches by Jeanne Lanvin

Jeanne Lanvin models in the Gazette du Bon Ton, 1915

Jeanne did not stop working even with the outbreak of the Second World War: although her models became stricter, and the finish more concise - in war time it was hard to get beads, corals, smalt or mother-of-pearl, with which Lanvin used to embroider her outfits - they did not lose their attractiveness, still making a woman beautiful. Jeanne proclaimed “beauty no matter what,” and clients responded to her with devotion and respect.

Jeanne Lanvin died on July 6, 1946, at her home in Paris, in the arms of her daughter. The Countess Polignac, who inherited her mother's fashion house, carefully managed it until her death in 1958, and then passed it on to her nephew Yves Lanvin. With her, the Spaniard Antonio Canovas del Castillo became the main fashion designer of the house, who was replaced by Jules Francois Krahe in 1960. He worked for the House of Lanvin and the famous Claude Montana. Now it is led by Alber Elbaz, who managed to restore its former brilliance and glory, which has somewhat faded over time. And now, like decades ago, the name of Jeanne Lanvin means exquisite beauty, refined luxury and excellent taste.

This text is an introductory piece.

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Jeanne-Marie Lanvin - young and talented

Jeanne-Marie Lanvin, who at the beginning of the 20th century would become the founder of a world-famous fashion house, was born in the capital of France. It happened in January 1867 in a very poor family engaged in journalism Bernard-Constant Lanvin (Bernard-Constant Lanvin) and his dearest wife Sophie Blanche Deshaye.

Jeanne Marie was eldest daughter, so instead of devoting most of her time to the usual children's affairs and studies, she had to look after the younger children and help her mother maintain comfort in the house. Perhaps it was from this young girl that Hugo, who was a guest in this family, copied the image of the main character of his novel Les Misérables.

The young girl had to go to work when she was only thirteen. She began to carry out small orders for craftswomen who were engaged in the manufacture of dresses and hats. And then she herself decided to become a milliner and began to gain knowledge in the most famous atelier in Paris. A few more years passed and young Jeanne, having gained vast experience in Barcelona, ​​decided to return to her homeland and start her own business.

Having rented a small room in a good Parisian district, she organized the work of a workshop in which women's hats were sewn. At that time, it was a very correct decision, since such production did not require large investments. And where does a young girl get a lot of capital? Jeanne purchased a variety of fabrics and started her own business, which very soon paid for itself. Fashionistas of that time could not imagine their image without a flirty hat and were ready to pay good money for an original and such a charming piece of clothing. And there were plenty of beautiful hats in the workshop.

Fashion for mothers and their daughters

In her personal life, Jeanne-Marie was not happy. Her marriage to an Italian count broke up after eight years. But the daughter born in this union, Marie-Blanche Marguerite, became a real source of inspiration, giving a lot of energy in every endeavor of the first woman of the fashion designer.

For her time, Jeanne Lanvin became a real "self-made woman". She did a great job with the role as well. caring mother, and with the responsibilities of a very busy and successful business woman. Not wanting to be in the center of events, she always avoided publicity and did not try to win recognition among those in power. She always listened to her inner voice and the desires of her adored daughter.

While choosing clothes for her little Marie, Jeanne realized that the outfits that she had to buy for children were completely not intended for them. They were just a smaller version of clothing for adults and did not take into account either the structural features of the children's body or the needs of the little inhabitants of Paris. Wanting to find a way out of this situation, she, as, indeed, always, took everything into her own hands and started producing clothes for young fashionistas.

The creation of the children's collection of dresses "Enfant" was a real revolution in the fashion world of the early twentieth century. Adult ladies were also delighted with beautiful clothes with many details, so Jeanne-Marie Lanvin had no choice but to start working on a women's collection.

It was in 1909, when the first collection of Mrs. Lanvin was published, that her fashion house was opened, which was called simply and succinctly - “Lanvin”. Parisians, who know a lot about fashion, were simply amazed by these clothes, in which everything was admired, from fabrics of beautiful colors to beautiful and sophisticated finishes.

Inimitable style from Lanvin

Working on each dress as a work of art, Jeanne-Marie Lanvin tried to make the outfits as romantic and light as possible. So that everyone in her clothes could look feminine, she began to turn to drapery very often. Wearing such dresses, thanks to the delicate ribbed folds, any girl or woman became like a goddess from ancient myths.

Madame Lanvin's favorite color was a beautiful blue palette, which combined not only heavenly shades, but also the beauty of flower fields. Her outfits were decorated with luxurious embroidery and amazing details, for the manufacture of which the fashion designer used beads, metal, pieces of mirrors and glass mosaics.

Over time, as fashion has changed, Lanvin's style has always remained the same. Light flowing dresses continued to be at the top of the fashion Olympus, despite the popularity of the “under the boy” style and the noticeably reduced length of the skirts. The elite considered it an integral tradition to choose dresses from Lanvin for the most chic and pretentious events. Dresses in the style of "robes de style" flashed on the red carpet, and at wedding ceremonies, and even at coronations.

A whole world of lanvin

With the advent of the twenties of the twentieth century, the fashion house "Lanvin" enters its present heyday. It was at this time that the famous artist Paul Irib created the logo that has become famous and recognizable, on which a woman, slightly bowing her head, holds a little girl by the hands.

Jeanne-Marie Lanvin does not stop only at tailoring for the beautiful half of humanity. In 1926, she completes and successfully demonstrates the first collection of fine clothing for men. Here, each wardrobe item is distinguished by high style and uniqueness, emphasizing the status.

Jeanne's active work goes beyond just modeling clothes. She wants to try herself in something completely different. And a year after the success of the men's collection, she impresses everyone with original Lanvin perfumes. Bright exotic flavors immediately become hits.

Madame Lanvin does not forget about other fashion houses and provides them with all possible support. She wants to convey her sense of style to everyone and everyone and teach young fashion designers to create unique products that can surprise connoisseurs of beauty. For his contribution to the development of fashion and participation in in large numbers exhibitions and shows, in 1926 she received the Order of the Legion of Honor as an award and recognition.

Not a single actress or singer could do without luxurious dresses from Lanvin. Each high-ranking person considered it obligatory to have models of this fashion house in her wardrobe. And his mistress continued to conduct a stormy activity and, together with the designer Albert Armand Rato, is developing amazing interiors for theaters and boutiques.

After her mother's death in 1946, her daughter Marie-Blanche Marguerite ran the Lanvin fashion house for another 12 years. And after the departure of Marie, Jeanne's nephew Yves Lanvin took this place. For for long years many talented designers worked with this brand, but they could not keep the former luxury and brilliance of Lanvin.

The new heyday of Lanvin

With the onset of the 21st century, the Lanvin fashion house is headed by the famous designer Alber Elbaz, who has already established himself as a top-class specialist, working with Yves Saint Laurent. He perfectly copes with the task of not forgetting the principles of beauty, bequeathed by Jeanne-Marie Lanvin, and bringing the breath of modern fashion trends. He retained those lightness and femininity, for which the clothes and other products from Madame Lanvin were so loved.

This is currently fashion brand produces a wide range of fashion items that attract with their elegance. Clothes for women have not lost their special French chic, which can also be seen in dresses for women. Everyday life, and in exclusive outfits that are made by hand. The combination of different fabrics and textures, unusual silhouettes - all this makes every woman a goddess. Men's collections, in turn, are designed to emphasize masculinity and style.

The Lanvin fashion house continues to create charming clothes for little fashionistas. Here, as the founder of the brand preferred, there is no pretentiousness and excessive rigor.

In addition, Lanvin does not forget about accessories, producing bags that are unique in beauty and quality. From a wide range of presented models, even the most demanding fashionista will be able to choose an excellent option. Another fashionable element from Lanvin is the indescribably beautiful frames for sunglasses, which even many Hollywood stars preferred.

You can complement the Lanvin style with delightful perfumes (both male and female). These fragrances are truly exquisite and will be remembered forever.

Jeanne-Marie Lanvin created a unique brand that has become forever associated with luxury and splendor. With a rich history, Lanvin does not stop, but continues to develop further.


Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) was one of the most famous couturiers in Paris in the 1920s. She is a contemporary of such great couturiers as Paul Poiret and. Her stuff was a huge success among artistic bohemians and stiff members. French Academy…. In the family, besides her, there were ten more children, she was the eldest. She had to work until late in the evening, forgetting about the rest. First Jeanne was a messenger, then a seamstress. From the age of 18, she already works independently - she makes hats, and in 1885 she opens her atelier in Paris. Her collections are a huge success even among the most noble and wealthy ladies.



By the age of 30, she Jeanne begins to work as a milliner.
When we go through old photographs of our grandmothers and great-grandmothers that we have left to remember them, we pay attention to their clothes. We see in it a special cut with a low waist, embroideries with a small pattern, soft folds - all these models are made of soft flowing fabrics with an ankle length in the style of Jeanne Lanvin. It was then that they entered the history of fashion, they were called “stylish dresses”.


Jeanne Lanvin also, like Paul Poiret, she loved folklore and was fond of oriental motifs. She truly loved her job and was devoted to it all her life. Jeanne sat alone for hours at her work. And this habit of being alone with her work made her a silent and uncommunicative woman. Jeanne had both rich experience and knowledge of fashion history, she was well versed in general fashion trends, and had a unique sense of style. But she was somewhat conservative, her own handwriting changed little under the influence of external circumstances. Jeanne Lanvin always preferred romance, femininity, delicacy. Her favorite colors are pale pink, lavender and blue. It is the latter that will be called the famous Lanven color, which was loved by women of all ages.



In 1890 she founded her fashion house. Then she opened stores in Cannes, Madrid, Deauville and even in Buenos Aires. Jeanne Lanvin designed outfits for different ages women. She developed a youthful style, which was distinguished by its simplicity of cut and fresh colors. Perhaps she would have remained just a famous milliner, but in 1895 Jeanne got married, but after 8 years her marriage broke up, and she was left alone with her baby, who was then 6 years old. Little Ririt, as Zhanna called her, became a source of inspiration. Zhanna creates delightful outfits for her girl, decorated with English embroidery, and the number of clients is increasing. Each lady wanted to have the same outfits for her daughter as little Ririt wore.



This was followed by new developments - models of men's clothing. By 1926, the whole family could dress at the Lanvin Fashion House. Her trademark Lanvin was the silhouette of a woman leading a little girl by the hand. This logo is still famous today, a logo that immortalized Jeanne's love for her daughter.


In 1907, Jeanne marries a journalist for the Temps newspaper, and travels a lot with him. These trips helped expand knowledge, discover new fabrics, create images related to. Embroidery is often found in her models, the most exquisite fabrics are taffeta, velvet, silk, satin, chiffon, moire and others. Dresses are decorated with beads, sequins, lace.
Luxurious cocktail dresses created by Jeanne Lanvin after these travels are filled with elegance and sophistication.


Jeanne Lanvin continues to open more and more new lines: fur clothes, underwear, sportswear and of course perfume. The Lanvin Parfums boutique was opened in 1924. And one of them is the Arpege fragrance, which brought fame to the brand. This perfume was created with the participation of her daughter, the design on the bottle was created by the same Paul Irribe, who is known for creating the Lanvin logo.


In 1926, she became a Knight of the Legion of Honor.


In 1946, the House of Lanvin was inherited by her daughter, Marie Blanche de Polignac. The Lanvin House is still open today, almost 100 years later. Jeanne Lanvin's style lives on! Jeanne Lanvin

Jeanne Marie Lanvin.


Jeanne Lanvin was born in January 1867. Jeanne's family had 11 children and she was the eldest. To help her parents overcome financial difficulties, she began working at the age of 13 in a hat shop in Paris.
Later, she is offered a job at Madame Felix, then, to improve her skills, she moves to the Cordeau hat shop and moves to Barcelona.

In 1885, she opens her own atelier in Paris. The collections created by her are a huge success among the wealthy ladies of the city.

In 1896, Jeanne Lanvin married Emilio di Pietro, from whom in 1897 she had a daughter, Marguerite Marie-Blanche. Jeanne Lanvin, perhaps, would have remained a famous milliner if this significant event had not happened in her life. The only child in the family becomes the main source of inspiration for the mother. Jeanne creates sketches of dresses for little girls, then - delightful dresses for girls, decorated with English embroidery. Products made according to the designer's drawings are very popular with Lanvin's clients and they want to buy dresses for their daughters.

Soon Jeanne decides to create a ready-to-wear collection for children, then decides to sell her products and in 1889 opens a store in Paris. By this time, Lanvin was barely 22 years old. Probably, when she opened her first store, she could not even imagine that 100 years later it would still be open to admirers of Lanvin style! Shortly after the appearance of the company store, Jeanne begins work on a collection for women.

In 1907 she married a journalist for the Temps newspaper, with whom she traveled extensively. Inspired by travel different cities, she decides to dedicate herself to creating images inspired by different cultures and art forms. She discovers new fabrics, thanks to which she manages to create the most sophisticated images. The experience gained by Zhanna influences the Lanvin lineup. The public of those years already experienced an interest in oriental culture, and the Lanvin collection creates a special stir around itself.

The turning point comes in 1909, when Jeanne decides to transform from a milliner into a couturier and establish a fashion house that will showcase models that embody her unique sense of style.

Jeanne Lanvin's collection is inspired by her travels around the world and the Impressionist paintings she collects. The designer creates luxurious evening and Wedding Dresses. In 1909 she returned to the world of haute couture.

Jeanne Lanvin does not want to stop there, and creates a whole universe of fashion for her clients.

In 1922, she creates the logo for the Lanvin fashion house, which commemorates Jeanne Lanvin's love for her daughter. This emblem is world famous to this day.

In 1923, Jeanne launches the Lanvin Sport line, and in 1926, Lanvin Tailleur/Chemisier.

Jeanne Lanvin launches her first fragrance shortly thereafter. The Lanvin Parfums boutique opens on the Champs Elysees in 1924. And in 1927 Arpege brings real fame to the brand. Jeanne Lanvin says that "this fragrance brings to a woman's life what music brings to this world!". The perfume was created by the designer's thirty-year-old daughter, and the bottle for them is designed by Albert Armand Rato. The round bottle features a design by Paul Iribe.

Throughout her career, Jeanne Lanvin did not stop expanding her brand, releasing more and more new lines: a collection of fur clothes, underwear, menswear. She is famous for her talent, the ability to create inimitable outfits full of elegance and sophistication.

Respected by all for her craftsmanship and fame, Jeanne Lanvin invests in other French fashion houses and sponsors various exhibitions. She sews clothes for theater actresses and movie stars. At the same time, both for the stage and for everyday life. In 1941, she sews costumes for the film "Children of Paradise", and then - for the productions of Sasha Guitry's plays. Jeanne Lanvin died in 1946, leaving behind a fashion empire.
Her talent during her lifetime was appreciated. In 1926, she became a Knight of the Legion of Honor. And her fashion house has many fans today. Jeanne Lanvin's style lives on!

Website: lanvin.com


Jeanne Lanvin — Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946), a contemporary of the most prominent fashion designers of the 20th century — Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel — occupies a special place in the history of European costume. At the beginning of the XX century. she dressed conservative members of the French Academy and representatives of artistic bohemia with equal success. After 1908, Lanvin willingly supported Poiret's reform and shared his enthusiasm for folklore and oriental motifs.

She easily caught general trends in fashion, knew the history of art, artistic styles, and costume well. At the same time, she had her own handwriting, which changed little under the influence of external circumstances. She was romantic, delicate, maybe a little conservative; she loved smooth lines, delicate colors - pale pink and lavender. She preferred thin silk embroidery with a small pattern, soft, supple folds, moderate length, feminine neckline.

Things Lanvin enjoyed great success, and in the 20s. she opened her own stores in Madrid, Biarritz, Deauville, Cannes and Buenos Aires. The Parisian House of Lanvin already had departments for men's, children's and sportswear, furs, and perfumes. Her perfume "Agrede" ("Arpeggio"), unobtrusively sweet, went down in history along with "Chanel No. 5", "Madame Rochas" by Marcel Roche and "Shalimar" by Jacques Guerlain.

In 1925, Jeanne Lanvin became chairman of the Organizing Committee of the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts (Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs), the one that gave its name to one of the artistic styles of the 20th century. - art deco (Art Deco). Her work was so highly appreciated that subsequently Lanvin repeatedly headed the directorates of the most prestigious international exhibitions: in 1931 in Brussels, in 1937 in Paris, in 1939 in New York and San Francisco.

In 1946, the House of Lanvin was inherited by her daughter Marie Blanche de Polignac, under whom the artistic direction was entrusted to Castillo and then to Claude Montana.


1913

20s



1951 photograph of Henry Clarke

1937 sequined evening dress

1951



1937 and 1913



1926, silk

1925

Black silk taffeta with metal plaques 1934

1920



1922


1927


20s

Moire treasure (crystals and pearls) of the Chicago Museum "Robe de Style" 1927

The dress belongs to Mrs. Charles S. Dewey

Wedding dress 1927

1938

1960


1925 and 1934

1951


Jeanne Lanvin At the age of 30, her first and only child is born, and from that moment Jeanne Lanvin's career as a couturier begins. She has already worked more than half of her life in the field of fashion: from the age of 13, she, the eldest of eleven brothers and sisters, becomes a messenger, a seamstress, and then a milliner. Since the age of 18, she has been making hats on her own. Prolonged work in solitude taught her to be silent. For many, this acts repulsive, but for many it attracts.

In 1895, she marries the Italian nobleman Emilio di Pietro, and eight years later this marriage breaks up.

Her daughter Marguerite is 6 years old.


Illustrator: Brissaud, Pierre


1915

The most successful models of Lanvin were the so-called "stylish dresses", with a low waist, loose fit and almost ankle length; here are two models 1924 and 1923. Light silk dresses were usually complemented by a warm cape, which was a compromise between a cape and a coat.


30s


Ririt, her lovely and musically gifted daughter, who would later become Marie-Blanche de Polignac and play a leading role in the life of Parisian society, fills the life of Jeanne Lanvin with new content and directs her work in a new direction: she creates elegant clothes in joyful colors. These models have nothing to do with the usual children's wardrobe of that time, which was only a reduced copy of clothes for adults. So she creates the first collection of children's clothing, which becomes the basis of her fashion house.

« Parisian night” is the name of this black and white dress, created by Jeanne Lanvin in 1926 for the artistic director of the theater, Jane Renouant. John Galliano, who prefers to draw his inspiration from fashion history, only minimally altered Lanvin's design for his 1998 collection for the Maison of Dior. Indeed, the only change is the trendy grey. A typical dress from Lanvin: model 1924 - cocktail dress in heavy ivory silk satin with red silk appliqué.


A little later, she introduces models for girls and women and becomes the first fashion designer to take care of women of all ages. Moreover, she develops youth style. Simple cuts, fresh colors, and above all, the famous Lanven blue, make women of any age more feminine and romantic, without being too sexy or frivolous. These dresses, made of soft flowing fabrics with a constant length to the ankles, have entered the history of fashion as "stylish dresses".

Since 1926 Jeanne has been creating fashion for men. The Lanvin house becomes the first in which the whole family can dress up. And this is the only fashion house, which even now, after more than a hundred years, is owned by one family.

French fashion designer. She founded her fashion house Lanvin in Paris in 1890. Gained fame at the beginning of the 20th century by designing elegant clothes for young mothers and their little daughters. The "muse" of the fashion designer was her daughter Marie-Blanche. Later, Lanvin's trademark was the silhouette of a lady leading a girl by the hand - a drawing was made by the famous art deco artist Paul Iribe.



Since 1925, Lanvin perfumes have also been produced.

Lanvin's models used embroidery, folk costume motifs. Until the early 1960s, Lanvin remained among the haute couture houses, then moved on to the production of prêt-à-porter clothing.





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