Quick HDR effect in Photoshop. How to Create an HDR Effect in Photoshop

The technique of creating HDR photos has existed for a very long time, since the days of film cameras. HDR stands for High Dynamic Range (high dynamic range). As you know, the camera is capable of transmitting a much smaller range and depth of colors and details in one frame than the human eye sees. HDR allows you to capture several photos of the same place taken at different exposures in one shot. This allows you to expand the dynamic range and make the picture more detailed, juicy and realistic.

Most often, HDR is used to capture the details of the sky and the ground at the same time. Without HDR, you can take a picture that shows the details of objects on the ground, but the sky is too light, or show the details of the sky, but the objects on the ground are dark.

1. Bracketing

Bracketing is a camera feature or shooting technique where the same picture is taken at different exposures. Shooting is best done from a tripod so that when the frames are superimposed on each other, all objects remain in the same place. The picture is taken with a change in shutter speed or using exposure compensation. The step can be different, from fractions of steps, to several steps (EV). It is recommended to take three shots: normal, light to capture details in the shadows, and dark to capture details in the highlights.

Sometimes it is enough to take 2 shots. This is done if two shots are enough to capture the entire dynamic range, but there are times when more than three shots are taken.

Having enough images, you can proceed to combine them.

2. Combine photos

Photoshop is the most convenient and flexible tool for creating HDR photos.

Place the light image above the dark one in the layers tab.

The top image shows the ground well, but the sky is too light. So you need to select the sky and delete it. In this example, the easiest way to select the sky is with the magnetic lasso tool. It is worth carefully working out the selection so as not to miss any piece of the sky.

Such high-contrast backlight shots are excellent candidates forHDR processing, but it's always easy to overdo it. Our final result shows proper restraint, producing a rich image with good dynamic range.

We've all heard this marketing gimmick: HDR has solved photography's last greatest problem by producing beautiful, lifelike images with high contrast. In most situations, it is impossible to capture the full range of tones that we see with our own eyes in one photograph. You can bring the result as close to reality as possible using exposure bracketing and combining images in special software.

Do you believe in it? Many of my students do not. They are interested in the potential of HDR photography, but are not happy unnatural results and give up because of the boredom and complexity (not to mention the cost) of learning new programs.

Imagine an approach to HDR that was cheap, used software you already know, worked non-destructively, and produced the most realistic results. Do you think this is some kind of trick? Not at all.

The solution is simple - you need to use Lightroom. All of his usual tools work for HDR in the same way as for regular RAW shots. All your edits are non-destructive, which means you can change your mind and re-edit the same file as many times as you like. Image adjustments in Lightroom do not affect pixels. Instead, it changes the set of instructions that the program uses when exporting a photo as a JPEG for web publishing or TIFF for printing. These instructions can be changed at any time.

Lightroom is relatively cheap and has a lot of features beyond HDR. Best of all, the results are better than with Photomatix Pro 5, HDR Efex Pro 2, or HDR Expose 3. In our case, the easy way is the best.

However, there are a couple of little tricks. First, you need to use Lightroom version 4.1 or higher. Earlier versions cannot work with tone-mapping (a technical term describing the editing process) of 32-bit files. To understand the second trick, you need to know a little more about how HDR works.

The process starts with an autoplug. It is advisable to put the camera on a tripod so that the pictures are the same in everything except exposure. I usually take five photos one stop apart, so my exposure ranges from two stops below the optimal value (EV -2) to two stops above (EV +2). The next step is to combine all these photos into a high dynamic range 32-bit TIFF, which brings us to the second trick. Versions of Lightroom 5.3 and earlier cannot create 32-bit files from a snapshot set. To do this, you need to use additional software.

However, there is a simple solution. You can create this file with Photoshop CS5 or higher, Photomatix Pro, or HDRsoft's Merge to 32-bit HDR Lightroom plugin.

• Translator's note- in the sixth versionLightroom now has a fusion featureHDR. To use it, you need to open the moduleDevelop, select the necessary snapshots, then open the context menu and in the sectionphotoMerge to find the required function.

1. Get good local contrast in highlights and shadows to maintain a realistic look.
2. Definition (Clarity is a great way to breathe life into areas that look flat, but don't go overboard. quantities (Amount) within 10-30 is usually enough. Remember that with this tool you can use Regulatory brush(Adjustment Brush) to limit the effect to the desired areas.

The simplest solution is the Merge to 32-bit HDR plugin available at www.hdrsoft.com. After installing it, simply select all the pictures in Lightroom, right-click, then select Export > Merge to 32-bitHDR(Export > Merge to 32-bit HDR). In the dialog box that pops up, I always check the box Noise reduction(Reduce Noise).

Also, if any objects (e.g. tree branches) moved while shooting, select Reducing halos(Remove Ghosts). Check the box alignment(Align Images) if shot handheld or on a shaking tripod. After you click on the Merge button, the 32-bit TIFF will automatically open in the Lightroom window.

If you already have Photomatix Pro, then you don't even need a plugin. Just open the program separately (not through Lightroom). Click the button Upload photos(Load Bracketed Photos). In the window that appears, check the box next to Show 32-bit raw image(Show 32-bit Unprocessed Image). Set the settings described above in the same way as the plugin, then click Merge(merge). If choose Show Options ( Show Options) for the Remove Ghosts tool, you will be able to specify the areas where you want to remove moving objects.

This is a more advanced technique than what is available in the plugin. You can also select automatic cleaning. If there were no moving objects in the pictures, it is better not to check the box. When the merging is complete, go to the menu File > Save As. Select the Floating Point TIFF format and click OK. You can close Photomatix as we will be using Lightroom for tone mapping. Import the saved TIFF file into Lightroom.

If you save it in the source folder, as I usually do, it will be enough just to right-click on the folder name in the panel Library(Library) and select Synchronize folder(Synchronize Folder). Make sure the checkbox Show import dialog (Show Import Dialog Before Importing) active. When a new window appears, deactivate all Develop presets and click Synchronize(Synchronicize).

WITHHDR is very easy to overdo, especially when trying to bring out details in shadow areas. Let the shadows be shadows and stop in time. We need a realistic final result.

If necessary, you can create a 32-bit TIFF with Photoshop, but I don't recommend doing this if there is a sun in the frame. In my experience file that the result is a strange almost unremovable banding, while the Merge to 32-bit HDR plug-in or Photomatix do not have such artifacts. But just in case, I will give an algorithm for working for Photoshop.

First go to Lightroom Options using the menu Edit > Options(Edit > Preferences) and select External editing(External Editing). Select TIFF from the formats drop-down menu, as PSD files will not work for this procedure. Select all the desired shots in Lightroom and go to the menu Photography > Edit In > MergeHDRPro'sphotoshop(Photo > Edit In > Merge to HDR Pro in Photoshop).

When the dialog box opens, opposite the line Mode(Mode) select 32 Bit. All editing options will disappear and the picture will look terrible. Don't worry, just click OK and Photoshop will create a 32-bit file. Save it. No need to change the name or location, it will appear in the directory next to the original RAW files.

• Translator's note- it may seem to you that it is meaningless to describe so many methods for combining images to work withHDR. However, each of them has its own characteristics and advantages, so the question of choosing an instrument, as always, remains a matter of personal taste.

Tone mapping in Lightroom

Regardless of the method by which you obtained the 32-bit file, the next step is to open it in the Develop module. First of all, the Exposure slider now shows +/- 10 exposure stops instead of the usual five. While you don't have to go to that extreme, it gives you an idea of ​​how wide a range of light intensities a 32-bit file is.

I usually start with a slider exposition(Exposure) to adjust the overall "feel" of the image, the balance of highlights and shadows, without worrying too much about losing data at one end of the tonal scale. More often than not, 32-bit TIFFs have a "heavy" feel with very strong shadows, so I start by lightening them up a bit.

1. Let the light areas remain light. Allowing bright areas to become almost white will increase realism.
2. Keep texture enhancement under control. Creating an undesired "grunge" look immediately indicates that this is HDR.
3. Let shadows remain shadows. Leave small areas completely black by increasing the dynamic range of the shot and making the highlights appear brighter due to the contrast.

Moving on to sliders Shadows(Shadows) and Glare(Highlights), I start with careful movements. Values ​​greater than 50 for the former will make the shadows flat and unrealistic. Taking too bold steps with Highlights is less likely to lead to problems. Keep in mind that the presence of small absolute white and black areas makes the picture more realistic. Light colors appear brighter next to stark blacks, enhancing the dynamic range present. Most high-contrast shots have an element that has the highest possible light tone, but is not blown out to white. The sun itself is an exception; it is always completely white. The need to keep some areas black and some almost white is the main reason for using sliders. Black(Blacks) and White(Whites). I prefer to set the Lightroom background color to white so that I have something to compare the highlights to. To follow my example, go to the menu Edit > Options > Interface(Edit > Preferences > Interface) Also keep an eye on the histogram as you make changes. It's your best helper, which tells about what is happening in the picture.

Most 32-bit images benefit greatly after adding contrast to the panel tone curve(Tone Curve). This emphasized the midtones and made the photo more lively, while also enhancing the highlights and shadows. Instead of go back, try to correct the situation with gradient filter(Graduated Filter) and Adjustment brush(Adjustment Brush), which will help preserve the local contrast of the desired areas better than global corrections with Shadows and Highlights.

The Merge to 32-bit plugin has the ability to boost saturation. If your picture is too colorful, reduce the Saturation by 5 or 10 points.

Using Lightroom to work with HDR will allow you to get cleaner, more visible details, even with the darkest and brightest areas that are preserved in the RAW file. This approach creates a memorable, vibrant and high-contrast shot better than any other, and works great for landscape photography.

Hi all!

Photoshop in the Creative Cloud family uses Adobe Camera RAW as a built-in filter. It is constantly being improved and acquires more and more new and interesting features. So in version 9.1 of this application, interesting features appeared for creationHDR images and stitching panoramas.

A very interesting direction in photography is the creation of HDR images. The abbreviation HDR comes from High Dynamic Range and means "high dynamic range" in English.

In the material about the main stages of RAW conversion, I tried to tell in detail about the tonal range of the scene being shot and the dynamic range of the photosensitive element of the camera.

In short, the point is that when shooting a real high-contrast scene, our camera is not able to capture the entire wide tonal range.

In this case, an unpleasant moment arises - the dark parts of the photo, the tonality of which did not fit into the dynamic range of the camera, will turn black, and the light parts, which are lighter than the camera can fix, will be lightened to a bright white color. All detail in these areas disappears.

In such cases, you can compromise and take a picture with correctly exposed shadows or highlights, depending on what is more important, or you can use the capabilities of specialized programs or Photoshop, which allow you to create images with a high dynamic range - HDR images.

There are three techniques known to me that expand the tonal range of an image.

Mixing frames shot with different exposures in Photoshop, one shot exposed in bright areas, and the second in dark areas. After that, both frames in the same document are opened in Photoshop on different layers, a layer mask is applied to one of them and on it, for example, for an image with detailed shadows, normally displayed light areas from another image are shown.

tone compression. The point is that monitors, and even more so photographic paper, have an even smaller breadth of the tonal range than cameras. To convert pictures to a format that can be displayed on the specified media, i.e. into an 8-bit or 16-bit image, and this technique exists.

Well, the actual creation of HDR itself - images with a dynamic range greater than in conventional 8/16-bit images. The boundary at which HDR starts is 13.3 exposure stops (brightness range 1:10,000)

What is needed to create HDR images?

We need to take several frames in which the necessary real scene will be captured, but each frame will have its own section of the tonal range, that is, individual shots will be exposed to different areas in terms of brightness.

In modern cameras, there is a shooting function with automatic exposure bracketing. In this case, taking into account the special settings of the camera, at least three frames are taken - the main one, this is a frame with a normal exposure, and the rest are automatically fixed with an exposure of a certain number of steps in "plus" or "minus", for example +/- 1 EV.

To demonstrate the processes in this material, I borrowed photographs of my very good friend, Photographer with capital letter, a professional landscape painter - Oksana Ermikhina. Oksana often uses the HDR method in her work, you can easily find her excellent work on the Internet. The only thing is that she uses a specialized program Photomatix, and we will look at the principle using the example of the Camera RAW application in Photoshop.

So, we need to combine three images with different exposures into a single whole.

It is best to use the HDR method of creating images on RAW files, as they contain the maximum information recorded by the photosensitive element of your camera. Open them in Camera RAW.

After that, press the key combination " Ctrl + A"Or left-click on the icon with lines in the upper right part of the "Filmstrip" window and select the "Select All" line in the menu that appears.

The process of merging images and generating a preview preview is started.

Upon completion of this operation, a preview window for the combined images appears.

The settings are minimized, but the main tasks here can be controlled. The Deskew Image option allows you to eliminate possible movement in the frame. If you turn it off, then with the “Remove ghosting” function turned on, the program will show which parts of the image were shifted during the shooting process.

By enabling the Align Image command, this module eliminates mismatched elements in the image using a special algorithm. It does not always cope with the task and then retouching is required, but this is mainly due to the movement of large objects in the frame.

The Auto Tone option helps you automatically equalize the brightness and contrast of the resulting image.

Without using the "Autotone" function.

With its application.

You want it, turn it on, you want it, don't. That in the first case, that in the second you will still be able to make a correction in the future.

Click the "Combine" button. The program asks where to save the linked file. Saving takes place in the DNG (Digital Negative Specification) format, an open format for RAW image files used in digital photography.

In the process of assembly and saving in the application, the final HDR image is formed.

After working with the adjustments on the “Basic” tab, we get the following picture.

Let's see - this is how we had a normally exposed photo at the exit from the camera.

And this is what we got as a result of assembling an HDR image by combining three frames taken with exposure bracketing.

In principle, you can say that you can achieve such results simply by resorting to the Highlights and Shadows adjustments in Camera RAW. In principle, YES, but this is if the tonal breadth of the scene being shot is not so large, that is, the difference between light and dark areas of the image can be fit into the dynamic range of the image displayed on the monitor using a converter. But in this case, the creation of HDR has a place to exist, since when raising the brightness in the shadows using an ordinary conversion, it will cause a sharp increase in noise, and the HDR creation method frees you from them.

Due to ethical reasons, I, unfortunately, cannot provide you with the RAW files of the author, but I think you can easily check the effectiveness of this method on your own works.

CreationHDR it's very simple and effective!

Happy creative success!

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Whether we like it or not, among the thousands of shots viewed, our eyes will definitely stop at a catchy HDR photo. We are attracted by the clarity of the photograph, the drawn lines, the brightness and volume of the image. Such photos are most appreciated, but creating true HDR photos is a laborious process that requires several photos at once. At the same time, today there are often photos from pseudo-HDR photos created using simple effects in Photoshop. The difference between real and fake HDR photos is significant. Well, it is worth understanding these subtleties in more detail.

What is HDR and what is it eaten with?

HDR photography (English “High Dynamic Range”) literally means “extended dynamic range”. In fact, dynamic range is the range between the darkest and lightest tones. In this case, the dark tones in the photo are displayed almost black, and the light tones are almost white. Let's take a classic example. Entering the hallowed room sunlight from the window, we clearly see the entire interior - both what is in partial shade, and those objects on which the light falls. However, as soon as we want to photograph this beauty, we are faced with the problem that the camera only captures certain objects. In some pictures, objects in the shade are visible, but instead of a window there is a white glare, or vice versa - the window is clearly displayed in the photo, and the objects in the back of the room are completely dark. The thing is that the human eye is a more advanced tool and is able to “grasp” a wider range of shades, compared even to the most the best camera. The same thing happens when we look at the building - with our eyes we cover all the details of the facade of the building and the amazing sunset over the building.

However, the camera cannot boast of this. In this regard, in order to display in the photo all the details of the picture that we perceive with our eyes, there is a need to take several shots or one RAW and ultimately reduce everything into one beautiful HDR photo. Vrochem, you can simplify the task and make a fake HDR. Let's consider each type in order.

Creating pseudo-HDR

In addition to real HDR photography, there is also the concept of fake HDR photography. It's easier than ever. To create such a photo, you do not need multiple shots or a RAW file. One photo is enough.

At the same time, for such processing, the most ordinary photograph taken on any digital camera is suitable, to put it mildly. In this case, a photo of one of the Oxford colleges. Easily and quickly, using HDR Photoshop effects, you can create an original bright photo.

1. Perhaps the most important is the first step - this is the foundation of the basics. Use the command Image >>Adjustment>>Shadow/Highlight and set the following values:

2. The next step is to duplicate the base layer and set the blending on the Color Dodge layer. This mixture makes the colors brighter, and turns very light areas into white.

2. Also duplicate the base layer, however, this time set the layer blending to Linear Burn. Set via Select >> Color Range (Selection) the main color to black and check the Invert option (we are interested in everything except the black areas). Fuzziness is best set to 100. Now add a new layer mask. Thus, the black zones will disappear.

3. However, there will still be some “unsympathetic areas” on the image, which can be eliminated through the Gaussian Blur filter by setting the radius to 25-35 pixels (at your discretion).

4. Duplicate the Linear Burn layer and set the overlay to Overlay. Next, select the layer mask and invert (Ctrl + I). This blending will darken the lightest shadows and also increase the contrast.

5. The next step is to experiment with the transparency of the layer. In this case, 45% was selected for the Overlay layer, and 65% for the Linear Burn.

6. Through Select >> Color Range, set White Matte and Fuzziness to 100. The lightest areas will be highlighted in the image. Duplicate the base layer and move it up, then create a layer mask and soften it through the Gaussian Blur filter.

7. You can also work with the image through the Gradient Map and "tint" the image depending on the overwhelming colors at the bottom of the image. After working with the gradient map, choose Select >> Color Range, check Invert. Create a layer mask. Set the layer blending to Hard Light and the layer opacity to 70%.

8. Experiment with the transparency of all layers and with the contrast of the image. The pseudo-HDR photo is ready.

True, it is worth noting that in some cases it is still necessary to pull out objects separately and edit the sea or sky separately. In general, the main lesson of Photoshop is to experiment, change and select the most optimal values ​​in order to make the photo look beautiful and bright.

How to Create an HDR Photo from a Single RAW File

To begin with (as they say, just for every firefighter), let's clarify what RAW is. RAW - translated from English means "raw". Under this term, they suspect information received directly from a digital matrix, that is, an image without processing it with a camera. The RAW file also contains EXIF ​​data (shutter speed, aperture, etc.). Conventionally, a RAW file can be equated to a film in film cameras. Such a file requires "developing" on a computer using special converters. This allows you to get all the information about the picture and maximum quality.

Let's go through all the details of creating an HDR photo from a single RAW file. To do this, we present a wonderful and very simple lesson Lars Kahrel. To create an HDR photograph, he uses one shot of a monument in Edinburgh. Technical specifications cameras - PENTAX K200D with Tamron 18-200 lens, 1/160s, e 6.3; ISO 100, 28mm.

It is convenient to extract all the details of a photo from a single RAW file and process the photo using the DNG format. This format allows photographers to freely access their files. Converting a file to DNG format is easy with the free Adobe converter Camera Raw and DNG Converter (Windows/Mac OS). The photo is saved in DNG format, and also as JPG.

To create an HDR photo, first open the DNG format in Photoshop (Photoshop Elements 6.0). We leave 3 different photos and set different exposures for them (for example, -2 EV / normal / +2 E).

After that, you need to open the Dynamic Photo HDR program (in Russian).

Having opened the photo in this program, you need to work a little with Curve and the Color Equalizer. At the same time, we slightly “correct” the yellow color, reduce the red color, and intensify the blue. Also subject to change is Dramatic Light Strength, Radius, Saturation.

HDR photo is ready.

Excursion V HDR photo

Looking back a bit, it's worth noting that high dynamic range (HDR) images used to be used in 3D, but have now become extremely popular in photography.

Let's take a closer look at working with multiple shots, and how exactly these photos are combined into a single HDR photo as a result.

Some shooting details:

• set the bracket, select the continuous shooting mode;
• choose a composition, taking into account the fact that in the center of the photo there should be an area of ​​\u200b\u200bmedium illumination;
• fix the exposure;
• take at least 3 shots.

First, we need to take several shots of the same object from the same position. In this sense, a tripod plays an important role in photography. It is because of the need to photograph a static subject that most HDR photographs depict static subjects - nature or buildings. The next task of the photographer is to take a series of shots (3 photos) with different exposures. For example, if we expose a building, then the sky “lights up”, and if we expose the sky (sunset), then the building darkens. Classically for Adobe, it is recommended to vary bracketing (shooting a series of frames with different intervals of values ​​- exposure, white balance, etc.) by one exposure step.

NB! The brightest exposure should show the darkest subjects with enough brightness to make those subjects sharp enough.

The task of the photographer is to combine these three shots into a single one. On average, 3-5 shots are taken with different exposures. We will limit ourselves to three photographs.

-2 0 +2

At the same time, there is one trick - when shooting flat surfaces, bracketing is often done with an interval of 2 steps. If the subject of photography is uneven surfaces and rounded and convex objects, then in order for the transition to be smoother, it is better to set a smaller interval. It is best to shoot in manual mode (manual).

The next step is to combine the photos into a single 32-bit image, which will make it as close as possible to what we see with our own eyes. To do this, you need to select files through the menu "File-> Automate-> Merge to HDR ...", another option is through the "Add open files" function, if the files selected for work are already open in Photoshop.

If you have used a tripod, then the changes in the position of the picture will be negligible. However, if a series of shots was taken “manually” or the position of the camera on a tripod changed while changing settings, then it is better to select the “Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images” alignment option. We warn you that such alignment can take up to 40-50 minutes of time, while Photoshop will require all the resources of the PC, so you are unlikely to be able to do anything else on the computer.

If you are confident in the same shooting position, then for the sake of saving effort and time, you can refuse the “Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images” function. In some cases, Photoshop may "ask" you to enter EXIF ​​data manually. It goes without saying that the data must be as accurate as possible. After all the calculations are done and the photos are combined, the HDR preview will appear. A window with a combined histogram will appear. You can move the slider for white points to the right edge of the histogram to see all the bright details. While this is only a preview, more precise values ​​can be set later. After pressing the OK button, we get a 32-bit HDR image, which can now be saved.

At this stage, very few image processing functions can be applied to a 32-bit picture. By and large, there is little use for it - except for archival purposes. One of the available functions is exposure adjustment (Image> Adjustments> Exposure). You can try changing the exposure to bring out hidden highlights or details in dark areas. The next step is to convert the 32-bit HDR image to a 16-bit or 8-bit LDR file using tone mapping. Let's convert the image to 16-bit.

After the done operations, a dialog box will appear - HDR Conservation in Method, select Local Adaptation. Next, we work with the histogram - we move the straight line closer to the shadow zone. Next, you can play a little with the curves. It is difficult to talk about any clear values, since each image requires a separate approach.

Next, we convert the image to 16-bit and tone it to our taste. We have moved on to the tone mapping stage (tonal compression). To do this, look in the menu Image - Adjustment. Install first Exposure (exposure), and then Gamma (gamma). To decrease the contrast, increase the gamma value. Through the Photomatix tonemapping plugin, you can detail the texture of a photo. It is also possible to work with the Gradient Map and "tint" the image and tint the image. In general, it all depends on your imagination and experiments, because in front of you is a whole world of Photoshop tools.

More details on how HDR photography is created can be viewed in the video. True, this is a completely different lesson.

Comments

1. Arthur
   February 22, 2012 at 08:42 pm

This guide was originally written by me for Photoshop CS3, but over the course of a couple of years, the developers have released some big updates to Photoshop, and they have innovations related to HDR, and now Photoshop CC is available to us.

I studied the differences in the versions - old and new, and decided that it was time to update the manual. This tutorial will work for all versions, including CS6 and CC:

What is HDR and where can this technology be applied?

In this tutorial, we will look at the theory and practice of HDR - photo. HDRI ( High Dynamic Range Imaging) was originally used in 3D, but is now being fully applied in photography. The essence of the technology is to obtain several images with different exposures and combine them into one 32-bit image.

The camera allows you to reflect a limited number of tones in one photo ( we call this dynamic range, the range of tones that can be captured between pure black and pure white). That is, we cut off some of the elements of the photo when we set the exposure on the camera.

We measure it to display the most important elements of the scene. For example, let's take a look at a series of shots I took on the Bradbury Bridge ( Bradburry) under construction in Los Angeles. The central image, shot at a normal exposure, shows the camera's capabilities well in terms of the amount of detail that is rendered.

Note that outdoor detail is lost because there is so much light. And the details on the railing of the stairs are also lost, because it is very dark there. When you look at reality with your own eyes, you see much more detail than in a photo precisely because the human eye transmits a greater range of tones than a camera can reproduce in a single picture:

The solution to the problem is to take more than one shot by bracketing. Take a photo with a normal exposure ( central photo), then with a lower exposure (photo on the left) to capture details outside the window and with a higher exposure; the photo on the right is for detailing the shadow. And finally, we combine these shots into one to get an image with a large range of tones.

In this guide, I will show you how to do all of the above in the least amount of time.

Photo Tips

First we need to capture the sources on camera. Technically, this translates into the need to take at least two shots with different exposure settings to create HDR. Personally, I achieve good results with three shots. I like to do bracketing in 2 stops.

Yes, I know this is more of a bracketing than most people are used to working with. But for the types of HDR images I love to create ( mostly urban landscapes), given value fits the most. If you are photographing people, it may be worth reducing the difference in exposure between shots to one stop.

And sometimes you need to take more than 3 shots with different exposures. It really depends on the contrast of the scene. In the Bradbury construction example, I took a series of shots of Los Angeles from inside a dark building on a sunny day through window panes. It took me as many as seven photos, 2 stops apart, to capture the full dynamic range of the scene.

In some cases, such as foggy weather, it is possible to capture all the tones in a scene in one shot. But again, mainly for HDR photography, 3 shots are necessary and sufficient. I put the camera settings in auto bracketing mode and take pictures with an exposure interval of 2 stops, one at “+” and one at “-”.

Note that only the shutter speed changes. If you change the aperture value, the depth of field will also change, resulting in an unnecessarily "blurred" final image. Use a tripod if possible, otherwise lean against a wall or something stable to prevent movement between shots.

Note: For true HDR, it's not a good idea to use one raw image and expose it with different settings. It is not necessary. The same result can be achieved by extruding shadows and highlights using Camera Raw or Lightroom.

This method is called single shot HDR ( Single Image HDR). This is the so-called pseudo HDR. You will not be able to do HDR - an image from a single SDR snapshot ( standard dynamic range). How is that " stereo sound from one speaker". There simply is not enough digital information. This is pseudo HDR and should not be confused with true HDR.

HDR guide in Photoshop

Step 1

Let's start with three images. One is normal exposure, one is underexposed, and one is overexposed. In this particular case, I used 2-stop bracketing. Since I shoot a lot of cityscapes, I get by with two feet, because the subjects are mostly flat surfaces, and stripes and pasteurization are not a problem.

If you are shooting round or curved surfaces, you may want to lower the bracketing interval to get smoother transitions. Keep in mind that you will most likely get a lot of tonal matches, as a good DSLR camera can capture about 11 stops.

I set the bracketing interval on my camera to 2 stops. Then I set the shooting mode to "queue". When I hold down the shutter button, 3 photos will be taken at once. I shoot in RAW for as wide a dynamic range as possible. You can create HDR even if your camera doesn't support RAW, but keep in mind that JPG is an 8-bit file.

Make sure you shoot in aperture priority or manual mode. You need to bracket the shutter speed, not the aperture. If you change the aperture, then the depth of field will not be constant, and you will get additional blur. Also, avoid the movement of objects in the photo or get "ghosts" - parts of objects that appeared in only one photo, which will lead to the appearance of unnecessary details in the final photo. If you look at the three images I used, you can see a lot of detail in the middle one.

However, shadow detail is lost on boats and city lights are too bright, which also leads to loss of information. The left image is underexposed to capture detail in the bright part of the scene ( buildings in the background).

The photo on the right is overexposed 2 stops to get shadow details like boat hulls and water reflections:

Step 2

So, it's time to combine these photos into one 32 bit image.

Go to menu File - Automation - Merge to HDR Pro (File>Automate>Merge to HDR Pro). This menu is available in versions of Photoshop CS2 - CS6 ( in CS2 there is no auto-alignment, but instead the "Merge to HDR" command in versions older than CS5).

Select all images or an entire folder. I put each set of photos in a separate folder, so I use the "Folders" value. Choose a photo to merge. Enable auto leveling ( Auto Align) in Photoshop CS3+ versions. Click OK. ( Photoshop uses auto leveling technology that allows you to create HDR images without a tripod.):

Step 3

Your images are now merged into one. You can exclude some photos by deselecting the green checkbox next to the frame. If unnecessary details appear there due to the fact that the camera moved during the shooting process, check the box “ Remove ghosting" ( Remove ghosts).

When you are working in 16 or 8 bit mode, the settings will look like this, and if in 32 bit, then like in step 4:

Step 4

The result of the merging is a 32-bit image. Change the mode to 32 bits. You can see the available tones by dragging the " Viewing white point settings» ( white point). Note that the slider does not change the image itself, it is only meant to show the full range of tones, because the monitor is not able to convey all the details of a 32-bit image at once:

Note: Photoshop CC has a new option "" (""). CS6 didn't have this option. If you are using Photoshop CS6 or lower, skip to step 5.

If you have a CC version and there is a checkbox next to " Full Rendering in Adobe Camera Raw”, then dragging the slider will not work. Turn this setting off and you will be able to drag the slider bar. However, when this option is enabled, you will be able to use Camera Raw for toning instead of the HDR Pro settings. In this case, go to step 8b:

But I recommend that you explore both methods as they each have their own benefits. Toning in HDR Pro (Step 5+) gives you more control and allows you to create a surreal effect. ACR( Camera Raw) will help you achieve a realistic HDR effect without much effort.

Step 5

Shading can be done right away, but I prefer to save the 32-bit negative first. Click "OK" to merge the 32 bit image. Now you can save the file. Save as psd , tif or EXR .

If you are working in 3D and want to add IBL lighting to HDRI, then save the file as EXR ( for Maya and more software to work with 3D that supports this format).

Step 6

Depending on how you want to use this image, you need to convert it to 16 or 8 bit. When converting, the so-called interpretation of the photo takes place. The reason for this lies in the fact that there are many ways to process a photo.

Whereas in a 32-bit image we have a huge dynamic range, but after conversion it will not be available. Based personal experience, I advise you to always work with the 32 bit version and then convert it. Avoid resaving a 32 bit image. This is your original image and we may have to go back to it many times.

On the menu " Image > Mode» ( Image>Mode>) select 16 bit (or 8 bit ). Now let's experiment with the settings. Let's start with the Tone and Detail part. This is where almost all the creativity of the HDR creation process lies. ( If you want to make settings without conversion, then select the menu item “View - 32 Bit Preview Options” (view> 32 Bit Preview Options). You can use several Photoshop tools in the menu Image> Correction (Image> Adjustments menu). The most significant setting here is “ Exposure" ( exposure control).

The HDR Toning dialog box opens ( Toning Dialog box) (or "HDR conversion" (HDR Conversion) for versions below CS5). Most The best way to make the settings correctly is to set the gamma value first, then adjust the exposure value. If you need a very contrasty image, reduce the gamma value. For less contrast, increase. Finally, adjust the exposure to get the desired brightness:

Step 7

Change the way method) in meaning " Local Adaptation» ( local adaptation). There are 4 available methods in total, but only 2 of them are available for user customization.

With the help of local adaptation ( local adaptation), you will have access to several additional toning settings. The use of curves is desirable as they can help you fine-tune the parameters. If you are familiar with curves, turn this setting on.

Don't be afraid to cut off the histogram a bit because you're working with a lot of dynamic range. Keep the details of the image clear, but don't forget to add shadows, otherwise the photo will look flat and unnatural.

edge glow

Once you've set up the curves, start adjusting the radius ( radius) and intensity ( strength) to avoid ghosting in the photo. ( On poorly made HDR images, you will notice ghosting at the edges of contrast areas.). The Radius controls the blur mask, while the Intensity setting determines the amount of the effect applied.

Tone and details

Gamma: This is where you control the contrast. Extreme values ​​wash out details or highlight them very strongly.
"Exposure" (Exposure): Overall brightness control.
"Details" (Detail): Here you adjust the sharpness of the image.

Additional settings

Shadow: Restores detail in the darkest parts of a photo.
Highlight: Restores detail in the brightest parts of a photo.
"Juiciness" (Vibrance): This setting makes the photo more colorful without over-saturating it.
"Saturation" (Saturation): Increases or decreases the total amount of color. Be careful not to oversaturate the overall picture.

Click OK to apply the settings:

Step 8

We got an HDR image. Photoshop is a great tool for creating realistic HDR images:

Step 8b

HDR, Lightroom and Camera RAW (Photoshop CC)

A new feature added in Lightroom 4.2+ and Camera Raw in Photoshop CC is the ability to work with 32-bit images. This is great because you can use the brush to fine-tune areas of the photo while working in a 32-bit environment. The image below shows the result of working with a brush in Lightroom. Notice how I was able to process the image. ( The same is possible in ACR).

At step 4, we are in the Merge to HDR dialog box (Merge to HDR):

1. Select "32 bit" from the "Mode" drop down menu ( mode) if something else is selected;
2. Check the box next to " Full Rendering in Adobe Camera Raw» (“ Complete Toning in Adobe Camera Raw”). The button in the lower right corner will change the name from OK to " Tone in ACR»;
3. Press the Tone to ACR button. The image will open in Camera Raw . You can apply all settings in Camera Raw, but only with the benefit of working in 32-bit. HDR - The image you get will have much more detail in light and shadow. ( Use the options for adjusting the settings for shadows and lights). You can also refer to the ACR manual;
4. Click "OK" when finished;
5. The image is still in 32-bit mode. If you're going to be toning, you can go back to step 5 and do it in advanced mode in Photoshop. By the way, you can do double toning.

If you are satisfied with the result and do not intend to continue processing the image, convert the image to 8 or 16 bits. Select a menu command Image - Mode (« Image>Mode>”) 8 or 16 bits. A pop-up window with settings will appear. To keep the same settings that were exposed in Camera Raw, choose the " Exposure and gamma» ( Exposure and Gamma). Set "Exposure" ( exposure) to 0 and "Gamma" ( gamma) to a value of 1. Click OK. The image is ready!

Note: If you can't open the HDR toning settings ( toning tools) in Photoshop CC, you need to follow additional steps. Select the menu item " Editing - Settings - File Handling» ( Preferences>File Handling).