Valley Aktru teacher pass why is it called so. Climbing the eastern wall of Aktru (4044 meters). Small Aktru Glacier

The next morning was the same as the previous one: food frozen to the table and dishes left, ice on the puddles, steam from the mouth. In general, frost and sun. Today, I decided not to get up before anyone else to take pictures, because. I found a cool excuse for myself: both dawn and sunset in the gorge completely cover the mountains, and in the dark climb up alone: ​​I’m not mentally ready.

The rest of the morning is like morning: breakfast, things to dry, fees. And on the "assault" of the pass "Teacher"

Why "Teacher": many different areas: stones, grass, loose, everything is under Very a good slope (+-45, maybe even steeper), with constant interruptions of more or less flat areas. Those. on the one hand, nothing particularly brutal: you go uphill and go, but on the other hand: if all your life you walked only on asphalt / laminate, then you need to completely rethink the whole approach to how you need to use your legs. Just the very thing for training "pioneers"

So small dashes and wander

The trees are getting smaller. Good view of the whole valley (gorge), Karatash and small Aktru

and in the other direction to the exit to the steppe

Stones change the grass

The people slowly begin to warm up, undress

I wanted to find out if they understood what they were doing, but decided that they were like adults. ...in vain...

We need to neatly center up. seems to be close)

My "Indian" has already completely let go after yesterday. But since the memories are still fresh, he decides not to stay too long, so that they would not wait for us later. Therefore, while they are waiting for the rest, we are leaving "to breakaway"

A little bit more

Yes, there are no streams on this route until the very finish, so forgetting the water (as we did) is highly discouraged. You can wash your face from a small glacier, but its appearance is such that we do not risk drinking.

and today we have enough traction to climb first

excitement and euphoria. *thanks to those who missed it)) AND VIIIID, just a sight)) Mountains, steppes, rivers, lakes. You can’t squeeze into the monitor and don’t transmit

The entire site in the "pyramids". Why - I do not know. Probably instead of a sandbox, or instead of "Vasya was here" ... Well, yes, it's more pleasing to the eye

Anyone else crawled in here? Schcha will receive!

Well, I missed it, oh well. And I didn't really want to

The rest are slowly pulling up

colorful piece of rock

"...everyone is building, and I am building..."

"I won't build anything, I'll sunbathe"

I'm going to the top. 180 degree panorama of the valley and a bunch of colorful "ants" from our group

Continuation of the panorama to the left. Behind the ridge, + - on the white peak yesterday we were on Golub.

and the whole company against the backdrop of the Kuray valley

and against the background of the Dome (white peak on the right), where we are going tomorrow

and an almost completely general collage against the background of it

Well, everything, but now you can have a bit of ice cream) where does the ice cream come from? Snow + milk powder + condensed milk + candied fruits + marmalade. In general, just an all-inclusive resort program))

* descent in the mountains is always single song. We went down without hurrying, and quite behind everyone. While descending, we heard the roar of a freight train passing by from the Dome area. ...avalanche...
When we went down, dinner was already ready, and it was already decided that we would not go to the mountains tomorrow. Day off. ugh... sorry Dome...
Masha breathed a sigh of relief. Well, that means the day off.

Day 13

Radial to Uchitel pass (3000m)

Morning does not add understanding of the further concept of behavior. Earlier, I planned to stop by here for one night and then move south of Teletskoye. But the ratio of effort to overcome the road here and back, and the time spent here seemed completely unreasonable. Worth coming here for one night...
Therefore, I slowly come to the conclusion that the Teletskys will have to sacrifice, but it will be more efficient to use their stay in Aktru.
Daring plans to climb to the top of the Dome (3500m, 1a) loomed. Moreover, I already climbed there, though not alone, and about 15 years ago.
And today I decided to climb the Uchitel pass (3000m, 1a) - a traditional route for acclimatization and warm-up.

1 morning idyll

The people, by the way, in the evening slightly arrived in the amount of +2 climbers. I talked to one of them about edible plants and gifts of nature in general. He showed me some useful herbs, so much so that I even remembered them, for which I thank you. In general, this topic is interesting - applied botany.

3 Aktru valley from above, you can see the Small Aktru glacier and to the left the Dome begins to peek out

4 bends Aktru and Kurai steppe

5 tea with a view of the Kurai steppe and the Kurai ridge

6 Kyzyl-Tash (3800), I also climbed there for a long time on 1b from the side of the Blue Lake

7 I'm waiting for sunset, it's raining over the Kurai Range

9 here it is, the Dome, in all its glory

It gets dark, I run down, it happens faster, of course, than the rise, but I like it much less. Cool and dry, sometimes you just move out. The sky is kind of overcast.
The wind picks up towards night. I'm starting to fear that my Dome will not take place...

Day 14

Despondency

Morning met with rain. Continued day, evening and night, but already in the form of snow.

11 is my standard look for the day

I survived as best I could.

14 before the supposed sunset, the rain almost stopped for 20 minutes, I managed to run to the river and take a picture, then it poured again

Day 15

Radial boat to the Blue Lake

I slept for a long time, the body seems to have adapted to the maximum to kill time. But after waking up, it turned out that it was in vain - the sun was shining.

15 snowy Karatash

I'm starting to realize that despite good weather, it’s better not to climb on the Dome for the next three days - the talus couloir is wet, snowy and shoots stones. So today I'm going to the Blue Lake, and tomorrow I'm going down.

16 remains of the Small Aktru glacier, 15 years ago it was twice as long

17 bastions of Kyzyl-Tash, very picturesque things

18 Big Aktru Glacier

20 it's bad to go - it's wet, everything goes underfoot and crumbles

21 Big Aktru and really quite big

22 Blue Lake, glaciologists' house and the way to Kyzyl-Tash through the Container Pass

In the house, I stole a couple of cans of stew, condensed milk, powdered milk and mashed potatoes and little candies. As far as I understand, climbing and so people leave excess products there, so as not to drag them down and I didn’t rob anyone. But I still didn't feel very comfortable with it.
I turned around near the lake, trying to understand what is beautiful in these places and why hundreds of people come here in the summer, but I did not find it. Well, of course, climbers, for them it is a base for climbing. But why do the rest go there? Meanwhile, this radial is very popular.
He shrugged his shoulders and moved back.

23 the glacier passed, the descent from the sheep's foreheads into the valley

Approaching the forest zone, I examined the couloir to the Dome in doubt - whether to take a chance and climb tomorrow. But after sitting and seeing how it poured there, I decided not to risk it. Moreover, on the Dome itself, it is also not pleasant to walk on fresh snow - although it is stated that there are no cracks on this side, fresh snow is still not good in such places.

24 left couloir - ascent to the Dome

25 couloir - ascent to the Dome

For the rest of the day, I indulged in gluttony and converted the goodies from the “food house” into pleasure. Fell asleep happy.

06.07.2019 17:37

Can't bring myself to post an emotional text. So "let the keyboard help me give birth to a dry review of routes!", especially since the magic pendel flew in from where they did not expect - Sveta, if you are reading, hello! Late in the evening, a message came to direct insta, which began with the words "I didn’t find it on your blog ..." Lord! Someone is reading me, what a nightmare!
Actually, based on the questions, I will tell you a little about the trails in the Aktru region, which are known to most.
In order. Very often I meet confusion in terminology, so I will give a glossary, let's start with the most confusing letter "A".
The common name is Aktru, Aktru, Aktura - " White House"By the way, the Altaians (or Turks) don't have a lot of colors: ak - white, kara - black, kyzyl - red. That's all, we've run out! Most geographical objects, which fell into my not very wide horizons, are named according to their color. Small assortment!

Aktru - peak, gorge, valley, glaciers.
Big Aktru is a glacier whose name is due to its size - it is large, you will immediately recognize it when it catches your eye. If you look directly at the peak of Kara-Tash from the alpine camp (you will also immediately notice it, it is best visible from the camp and is considered calling card: kara - black, tash - stone), then the glacier will be on the right. Strong right. It will seem small, but it is not, because only the tip of its "tongue" will be visible. The total length of the glacier is about 8 km, so do not be fooled by visual projections.
Small Aktru - glacier. Again, we will take Kara-Tash as a landmark. Small Aktru on the left, not to be confused. There is even an icefall. During the training camp, ice classes are held right on the Small Aktru, where they learn to walk in crampons, turn ice screws, and climb the icefall. When I participated in such an event (in May), there was a lot of snow, Kara-Tash was not a “kara” at all, the glaciers were so thickly “smeared” with white that blue ice for cats and ice drills had to be diligently mined under snowdrifts.
Aktru is a river. Guess where it starts! In winter and even in May, you can drink from it, but as soon as the glacier begins to actively melt, the water becomes cloudy and you don’t feel like drinking from it at all. A drinking stream runs next to the river. Distinguish big river from the stream will not be difficult, especially in the camp - everything is signed there.
Aktru-Bashi - highest peak area - 4044.4 m. The easiest route to its top is 2A. 2A is definitely not for people without training. About how we went to v. Interns (also in deuce A) as a group, consisting of a person without special knowledge, I will tell later;). So, if you are riding such mountains for the first time, you don’t know what crampons, ice axes, ice screws, jumar, rappel and main knots are - you should not tempt fate.
With the letter "A" in our glossary, it's time to finish.

B!
Lamb foreheads - a form of relief. Rocks made of exposed bedrock, smoothed and polished by the movement of a glacier.
Bergschrund (it is not necessary to know this concept, it's just a funny word) - a crack in the snow-ice slope, formed when the heavy lower part, moving along with the glacier, breaks away from the motionless snow-firn slope in the upper part. Usually located at the beginning of the glacier, or on the sides of the glacier.

IN!
Via ferrata - "road of iron" from Italian. A section of the route, which is equipped with devices to increase the speed and safety of movement: iron brackets, cables, metal plates.

Automobile part of the route

The road to the gorge begins with a turn to Kurai. It can be reached by any serviceable car. Any car with a slightly higher cross-country ability than a sedan will drive from Kurai to the "transshipment": a dirt road, there are fords, but all are passable, even on passenger car, but with management experience;). The most difficult section is the ascent before the "transshipment". Remember the weather in the mountains and possible rain! The surface becomes slippery instantly. The most interesting part for mud lovers is 8 (or 6) km from the "transshipment" to the alpine camp. Usually they offer a pick-up from there: on UAZs, on gas trucks, you can walk. If you have off-road driving experience and an appropriate car, then you are there! But, I remember the situation when the Altaians on the UAZ-tablet stood in the middle of the swamp, resting their rear wheel on a stump ... Surface: a dirt road, in some places there are stones, there are fords, there is a lot of mud, there is a swamp. In some places, the roads diverge, but they will still meet at the end point of the route. You can choose to your liking!

Alpine camp

We arrived in the first half of May for a training camp and settled at the lower base. On it, the houses are simpler than on the top, there is a place for tents. Amenities on the street even in new buildings. There, at the base, there is a person responsible for security, from whom you can find out the situation on the routes (ask the residents of the camp where to look).
The upper base "Pencil" is higher (it's surprising why they called it that, right?), closer to Kara-Tash (remember, we took it as a landmark). Everything is much more civilized there - the amenities are already warm, the buildings are new and multi-storey. But the prices are much higher than on the lower base. You can rent equipment there. They say that their warehouse burned down, but I took shoes there for a test, so you can borrow shoes for lack of your own - 300 rubles / day, a passport as a deposit, you need to clarify about the rest of the equipment. If you are going to go to the Dome of the Three Lakes, then you should already have at least one pair of crampons per group and ropes for insurance, rent would be just in time, do not buy equipment for one time.
I will tell you from my own experience and the experience of Misha, who lived there much more than me. I only lived in a house. There were 12 of us in the room on the benches, so I can’t talk about freedom, silence and relaxation. Still, alp.gathering is an event of a guitar and an ice ax, and not a sleeping bag and a healthy complexion. Exactly a year ago, at the same training camp, when Misha also went, the guys lived in large tents with stoves. It was pretty comfortable. Talk about summer period it’s not even worth it for tents, there’s not even snow anymore, you don’t need to dig a snowdrift, just grab a warmer sleeping bag! This year, after the training camp was over, some comrades (we won’t poke a finger) still remained ski touring in the area and they lived above the lower base in an ordinary tent, they say that this is some kind of paradise after our common room!

Routes

Routes that people who are far from mountaineering in the Aktru region are familiar with: Blue Lake, Uchitel Pass, Dome of Three Lakes, Green Hotel, V., Yubileinaya. I think it is worth saying a few words about them.

Blue Lake, per. Badge, V.Yubileynaya

The lake is located at an altitude of 2840 m in a basin behind the left moraine of the Left Big Aktru glacier. Above, we have discussed where we have the Bolshoi Aktru glacier. Because it diverges, as if absorbing the vertices inside itself (envelops), it is easy to understand where the left tongue is, where the right tongue is. Moraine - fragments of rocks brought during the course of the glacier. At a cursory uninformed glance - heterogeneous stones of various sizes interspersed with earth, clay and some other debris. The moraine, immediately behind which the Blue Lake, is easy to read, you can’t slip past. Blue Lake is always an intermediate point for climbers' routes. Even during the period of our small training camp, we were twice on the Blue Lake, the road to it among the climbers is called nothing more than a "durotop", because you go, you don’t meet any technical sections, you just stomp along the path, or you walk through the snow. Most often, they set up camp there and start on the route from there, a lot of categorical routes start from the Blue Lake: Kyzyltash and Interns, Aktru, Yubileynaya, many trails to the passes, from which there are also several trails to the peaks. I attach a photo, a blue lake behind mine right hand, on background tents, on the left hand - the trail. Remember the direction of the trail - it is the same in any season.

There is an easy route to the blue lake itself: 2.5 - 3 hours in pensioner mode and you are there. From the alp. camp along the left bank of the river. Aktru, further along the not very pleasant-looking scree slope of Kyzyltash (it will always be on your right side from you) to the Sheep foreheads. Lamb foreheads - the most difficult part of the path, in my opinion, these are two large round rocks. Climbing directly on them would not even come to mind, to the right of them we look at the couloir and confidently go up. Couloir - a hollow formed as a result of the flow of water / snow. After overcoming the couloir, there will be a rather flat open part with a large stone, from which good photographs are obtained (with straight arms, of course).

After this part, the glacier and moraine, behind which the lake will be clearly visible. You can walk on the glacier, which I strongly advise against, it is not as friendly as it seems. Therefore, it is better to skid a little on the moraine. Passed over the moraine? Here it is! (I shamelessly took a photo in Google, the summer trail is very clearly visible there).
And nearby is the recognizable little yellow house of scientists involved in glacier research! Glaciologists! This "hut" helps groups survive bad weather, which is common in these parts.


On the right, you can clearly see the trail along the sypuhe. It leads to the Znachkist pass, from which the route opens to Yubileynaya. If you have come and are not dying of fatigue, and the weather is clear, then I would advise you to go to the pass, and from there to the top, the view is excellent! A few words - go to the pass along the path, the photo shows that it goes around the lake on the right (by no means along the glacier!), Then it goes to the left and to the pass. you need to choose the most stable surface and put your foot on the whole foot, and then only load. After we got to the pass, there will be a path to the right - the road to Yubileinaya. From her very good view to the Kurai steppe and neighboring peaks. There is no snow at the very top and in winter, so you should not be afraid. The whole top is covered with flat sharp stones, it is better not to stumble. I'll attach a May photo.

Green Inn, Three Lakes Dome

The Green Hotel is an intermediate point of routes, like the Blue Lake.
Probably, I mistakenly classify this route as a route for beginners, because there is still a glacier there. There is a glacier, there are glaciologists! And a house! The house is located above the green hotel to the right of the path.
The way to the top of the Dome of Three Lakes lies through the Green Hotel, it is good there in summer (they say). In our case, it looked like this on a successful day of climbing (first photo). And on the second, third photo is the view of the Green Hotel from the first unsuccessful attempt to climb, because the weather was disgusting. Well, the fourth - again brazenly taken someone else's photo of the hotel in the summer.

We go from the camp, heading for the small Aktra, look carefully to the left, as soon as we climbed the moraine, so there should be a couloir along the left wall, into which you need to go. In general, they say that it’s better not to go to the couloir without detailed knowledge of the route, but we had Grisha in the department, who assured us that in the summer he and his son were self-propelled a couple of times without special knowledge! The movement goes along the scree surface, you need to be wary of stones. As soon as we climbed up and saw the brackets in the rocks - the direction is right! It is safer, of course, to go with insurance - to fasten a carabiner to metal cables. After the via-ferrata has been passed, there will be a section with a slight slope with large stones, and after that - another "frontal", and immediately after it - the Green Hotel.
I can say that the most unpleasant part is a sharp climb, for a short distance, almost a kilometer sharply gains. You need to be very careful about your well-being in case of mountain sickness. And don't forget the stones! Rockfalls are a nasty thing.
On the way to the top of the Vodopadny glacier, it is quite safe, because. there are no complex cracks in it. But it's still ice. Ice is slippery. If you go without equipment (no ice ax or crampons) and you fall on your stomach / back / side, then there will be an extremely unpleasant increase in speed along the glacier with a further roll out onto sharp stones. I would not advise walking in unstable shoes.
The height of the top of the Dome of three lakes is 3556 m. The view from there is good. Although... This is the case when the summit may not be the final goal, because on the way there it is also very picturesque and exciting!

Pass Teacher

A pass of category 1A difficulty (this is a category of difficulty for passes or a tourist one, for alpine routes the categories start from 1B), the height is a little more than 3000 m. The trail to it starts behind, excuse me, the toilet at the lower base. Pass from the category: went to the store for bread, flew to another country, went to the toilet, went to see the steppe from the pass. The pass is not difficult, there is even a path to it without a category. On the route it is better to immediately ask the inhabitants of the camp, they will show you. The main thing to remember is that if you are crawling over large slippery stones, then this is not your path!
This is probably the most best option look from a height with a minimum expenditure of effort and energy on the Kurai steppe!

Goodies:

The idea of ​​the ascent came to us in January 2013, almost half a year before the ascent. Studying various information about this peak of the North-Chuysky ridge, we were surprised to find that its Eastern wall was climbed only in July 1959 by a certain L.P. Tsybkin and further attempts did not lead to success, and the Northern Wall was generally up to today is a white spot of mountaineering and is waiting for its madmen. Most likely, as we suggested, this is due to the inaccessibility of the Northern Wall Circus - getting there is already a big feat.

Peak Karatash at dawn from Aktru airport

In order to get to the Eastern wall, you need to go to the valley adjacent to the Aktru gorge. This can be done either through the Uchitel pass (1B) immediately from the Aktru alpine camp, or from the Blue Lake through the Znachkistov pass (1B). Initially, we planned to go through the Teacher, but at the last moment we changed our minds and decided to go along the Bolshoi Aktru glacier to the Blue Lake to the Znachkistov pass. Actually, it seems to me that going through the Znachkists is faster and more interesting.

On the first day of the journey, on the way to the Blue Lake, we felt the influence of the height (after all, 2820 meters) - a slight headache, shortness of breath, heaviness in the legs - all this made us stop for the night on the shore of the lake.

The next day was bright sunny weather. According to the plan, they wanted to reach the foot of the Eastern Wall that day. The Znachkistov pass began to be easy. Its height is about 3250 meters. Having reached its top, we found that we still have to go through a large plateau of 500 meters at the top before we find ourselves on the descent and see our cherished wall. Approaching the opposite slope of the pass, we were unexpectedly surprised that the descent down lies through sheer rocky ledges of 20-50 meters. The first thought that came to my mind was “and who just gave 1B to this pass!”. Although later, having studied the possibilities of descent in different parts of the slope, we found a place where you can go down without much difficulty, although at the same time they used the descent along the rope to the beginning of the snowy couloir, and further along it, drowning in deep snow, fearing an avalanche, clinging to the rocks , went downstairs on foot. I must say the slope there is quite steep, maybe 40 degrees. At the end of the descent, pretty tired of trailing deep snow and emboldened, we began to go down on backpacks.
Finally, we descended from the Znachkistov pass to the gorge of the Eastern wall of Aktru. The wall itself is still 5-7 kilometers from the place where we went down and on the way between us and the wall there is the Korumdu icefall, which will also need to be passed if you want to get close to the Eastern slope of Aktru.
Initially, we thought that we would be able to get from the Aktru alpine camp to the foot of the Eastern Wall in a day, but every day our plans were dispelled. So on this day, the influence of altitude, the tiring transition through the Znachkistov pass, the sunstroke received by me and Anton simply squeezed the last of our strength out of us, and we camped right at the foot of the Znachkistov pass, choosing a convenient rocky scree away from avalanche drifts. The place for the camp is beautiful: the Korumdu icefall is 2-3 kilometers ahead and the eastern wall of Aktru rises above it, which now could be studied live and the route thought out.
The weather got worse and worse all the next day. Since we had to go 4-5 kilometers with overcoming the icefall, we postponed the exit for the second half of the day, thinking that we would manage everything calmly. Just after lunch, the weather finally deteriorated, visibility was 50 meters, everything was white, only sometimes the black walls of the gorge in which we were appeared in the fog, which gave hope that we would not get lost.
It was in such weather that we moved towards the Korumdu icefall. As luck would have it, the wind began to rise again and everything turned into some kind of blizzard. At the beginning of the ascent to the icefall, there were no difficulties. Were in a bind. Icefall first passes through the center. It is in the center that you can go more than to the middle of the ascent without any serious obstacles. On the left and right of the icefall, it seemed to me better not to meddle - there is an ice "meat grinder". So, bypassing the ice towers and abysses, we went along the center of the glacier to a small ice wall (3 meters high), which we climbed quite quickly with the help of ice tools and a drill. Next, you need to stick to the right side of the icefall and focus on a steep snow-ice hill that connects the glacier and the rock on the right and leads to the top of the icefall. In this case, you need to be careful, because. the path to the right side of the icefall, to the rock, lies through inclined ice floes, along which it is very easy to slip into open cracks, so it is necessary to insure each other with drills. You should not, like us, go through an icefall in a snowstorm or in zero visibility - it is very easy to get lost, exhausted and freeze, well, or fall somewhere. Wait for good weather!
In general, exhausted, making our way through a snowstorm and darkness (it was almost dark), we climbed to the top of the icefall, immediately stumbled upon a safe rocky scree, on which we quickly erected a tent and began to warm ourselves in it.
Only the next day, when the sun came out and the view of the circus of the Eastern slope of Aktru opened up, I was able to appreciate all the severity and danger of the icefall that we went through. At the same time, we finally stood at the foot of the East Wall of Aktru. The way here took us 3 days, although we planned for 1 day. But we were in no hurry, we had plenty of time. Now we were gaining strength and waiting for good weather for the ascent.

The top of the icefall is at an altitude of about 3200-3300 meters. Ahead is a steep 800-meter ascent along the Eastern Face, on the right is the peak of Korumdu peak (3800), on the left is the icy steep slopes of the Aktru ridge, which connects with the peak of the Intern (3750). In general, the view is gorgeous!

For two days we waited for the right weather. Now snow, then fog, then strong winds interfered with the ascent. And on May 7 in the morning, absolute calm, clear sky without a single cloud. We quickly packed up and went to the wall.
A little about equipment. Rope 50 meters. Rock hooks - very useful on the wall. Bookmarks - went well on the destroyed rocky areas. Ice screws - only on the wall they were not useful to us, there was no ice, or it was covered with snow, but it is better to take it with you.

Backpacks, with things that we took with us, made our way very burdensome, because we then decided to go down the classic route (2A) to the other side of the mountain. I had to drag another 15-17 kg of junk.
So, we set off on the route at about 10 am. Having initially examined the Eastern Wall, we conditionally divided it into 7 sections: climbing along the avalanche to the first rocky island, 5 rocky islands separated by snow fields and the summit snow-ice cap.

The first section of the avalanche is passed directly under the first rocky island in the place where the danger of an avalanche is minimal. The rise there is about 30 degrees, but the snow was somewhere waist-deep, so we barely raked the snow and changing each other, getting wet and sweating, we reached the first rocks in about 1.5 hours.
On the first rocky island, the slope increased to 40 degrees. The rocks are all covered with snow, which greatly complicates the ascent - we had to dig points for insurance and stations. Each rocky island takes about 3-4 pitches. Difficulties begin on the third rocky island, where the slope sharply increases to 60-70 degrees. I think this is the hardest part. Difficult rock climbing with backpacks in crampons on half-buried and crumbling rocks is not an activity for the faint of heart.

After overcoming the longest third rocky island, we realized that we would not be at the top until sunset. Even the neighboring peak Korumdu (3800) was still much higher relative to us. We realized that for the whole day we climbed only about half the way.
The fourth rocky island also turned out to be quite difficult - a slope of 50-55 degrees, about 4 pitches long, in places with deep snow, in places with destroyed rocks, which now and then slip out from under your feet and complicate belaying on the slope. On this site, I almost dropped my backpack - it was saved by the fact that I always fasten it to the station.
We climbed the fourth and fifth rocky islands at night. I really wanted to drink, eat and sleep, I was exhausted.
Finally, the rocks ended and only the endless tedious ascent along the Aktru snow cap began. Having passed about 4 or 5 pitches, the slope suddenly began to slope and the treasured peak line appeared in the dark. Somewhere at 5-30 in the morning we climbed onto the summit plateau of Aktru Peak. Dawn was already breaking on the horizon. We didn’t have the strength to go down, so we decided to put up a tent right at the top - it was necessary to urgently sleep, rest, in order to restore strength.
As soon as they climbed into the sleeping bags, they knocked out immediately. We woke up at 11 o'clock due to the fact that it was stuffy in the tent, the sun was very warm, although it was quite cool outside because of the breeze.