DIY military equipment models: step-by-step description. Katyusha - a unique combat vehicle of the USSR (interesting) Origin of the name Katyusha

In the magazine for paper modeling Paper Modeling, number 20, patterns for the reactive system are presented volley fire BM-13 Katyusha.

Katyusha is the unofficial collective name for mobile rocket launchers BM-8 (82 mm) and BM-13 (132 mm). Such installations were actively used by the USSR during the Second World War.

Back in 1916 a combat rocket using smokeless powder (a prototype of a later rocket) was invented by Ivan Platonovich Grave. In 1924 he received patent No. 122 for such a missile charge. Further work on the creation of rockets using smokeless powder continued until the Great Patriotic War. The development team included Sergei Korolev. In March 1941, successful field tests of BM-13 installations with the M-13 projectile were carried out, and on June 21 a decree on their mass production was signed. On the night of June 30, 1941, the first two BM-13 combat launchers were assembled at the Comintern plant in Voronezh. Initially they were mounted on the ZIS-5 chassis, but the use of such a chassis was considered unsuccessful, and it was replaced by the ZIS-6. Subsequently, the BM-13 (BM-13N) was installed only on Studebaker (Studebacker-US6). An experimental artillery battery of seven vehicles under the command of Captain I. Flerov was first used against the German army at the railway junction of the city of Orsha on July 14, 1941. The first eight regiments of 36 vehicles each were formed on August 8, 1941. An improved modification of the BM-13N was created in 1943, and until the end of World War II, about 1,800 of these guns were manufactured. Range - about 5 km.

The weapon was inaccurate, but very effective when used in large numbers. The emotional effect was also important: during the salvo, all the missiles were fired almost simultaneously - within a few seconds, the territory in the target area was literally plowed up by heavy rockets. At the same time, the deafening howl that the rockets raised during the flight literally drove us crazy. Those who did not die during the shelling were often no longer able to resist, as they were shell-shocked, stunned, and completely psychologically suppressed. The mobility of the installation made it possible to quickly change position and avoid a retaliatory strike from the enemy.

Each vehicle had a box of explosives and a fuse cord. If there was a risk of the equipment being captured by the enemy, the crew was obliged to blow it up and thereby destroy the rocket systems.

The name Katyusha comes from the KAT (Kostikova Automatic Thermite) marking on the incendiary-filled rockets used. And since the appearance of weapons in combat units coincided with the popularity of the song Katyusha, this name stuck.

Here you can download the magazine Paper Modeling - 20 - Jet system BM-13 Katyusha multiple rocket launcher for free, without registration and SMS.

On July 14, 1941, in the battles near Orsha, it fell on the fascist positions, causing horror. fire tornado rockets. This was fought by an experimental battery under the command of Ivan Vasilyevich Flerov. Thus began the life of the world’s first combat vehicles of field rocket artillery - “Katyushas”, as our soldiers affectionately called them. The legendary Katyushas traveled all the roads of war, improving, gaining more and more power and accuracy. They took part in many military operations, including the capture of the Reichstag in Berlin.

Today, the Katyushas have been replaced by new combat vehicles - modern heavy rocket launchers. Powerful tractor-trailer vehicles on wheels with wide-profile tires are capable of moving at a speed of 75 km/h and overcoming obstacles and fords.

The artillery part of modern Katyushas is 40 guide tubes assembled in a package and installed on a lifting and rotating device. The missiles are capable of hitting the enemy at a distance of up to 20 km.

We invite you to build a model of a modern rocket artillery combat vehicle (Fig. 72). Basically, the work will require thick cardboard 1 mm thick and drawing paper. For some parts you will need other materials - we will talk about them specifically.

First, transfer the developments of the parts shown in Figure 73 onto cardboard. Those parts that will be glued to left side models, draw them yourself. Let us remind you how this is done. Copy onto the tracing paper those details next to which the letter P (right) is located, then turn the tracing paper over and transfer the resulting image onto the cardboard.

Cut out all the details along the contour. Where the letter B is, cut holes, and where the dot is, make punctures with an awl. Bend the workpieces along the fold lines, after first running the tip of the awl along them with pressure. Then transfer all the developments onto drawing paper, except for parts 21, 50′ and 54′, the development drawings of which are shown in Figures 74, 75. You need to cut and bend them in the same way as cardboard parts. Cut the blanks of parts 21 from ordinary thin paper and, having greased them with glue, screw them onto a rod with a diameter of 4 mm - you will get tubes 10 cm long.

Reamers 50′ and 54′ need to be cut from transparent film. It's better to mark them like this. Place the film on the drawings of the developments, use an awl to transfer the image of the parts onto the film, and then cut them out.

Now prepare for assembly the parts shown in Figure 76. Cut out parts 74 and 65 from round sticks or pencils, parts 73 and 67 from thread spools, part 46 and a cube measuring 1 X 1 X 1 cm from cork, part 72 - made of tin or plexiglass, part 75 - from thin rubber (for example, from an old bicycle inner tube), part 43 - from a plastic or metal tube, and parts 17′ and 51' - from transparent film. Bend parts 32, 48, 49, 53, 59 from wire. If you don’t have thick wire at hand, straighten regular paper clips.

So, the parts are prepared, you can start assembling. The assembly diagram of the cabin, launcher and frame is shown in Figure 72, wheels and axles - in Figure 76.

The cabin is a cardboard frame covered with paper. The frame is assembled like this. Glue the oil radiator 19 onto the water radiator 18, and glue the frame 11 to the frame 12. Glue the radiators and frames to the base 14 in the places indicated by dashed lines.

On the same base, fasten frame 13 and radiator trim 20, and stick part 2 on top.

Then glue parts 1, 4 and 3.

Install frame 9 in the rear part of the cabin frame. Place part 6 on it and frame 12, and glue frame 7 to it.

Glue parts 8 and 10 to the back of the frame.

The final operation of assembling the cabin is gluing the trim. First prepare the parts for installation: glue the corners of the hood cover 61 and roof 64, to inside parts 50 and 54, glue parts 50′ and 54′, make notches in the hood 56 and bend the valves inward. Insert the radiator grille bars 59 into the holes in the base 14 of the cabin and parts 2.

Then, in order, stick on parts 50, 63, 54, 5, 64, 61, 56, 58, 60,

62. Attach parts 15, 16, 17, 55, 52, 57 to the fender liners, footrest and headlight, respectively.

Place the launcher on the platform that needs to be glued together

from parts 26 and 27. Place a barrel on the platform: it is assembled from skin 30 glued into a ring and bottoms 28. The hoops are imitated with two pieces of twine glued in the places indicated in the figure. Glue the prepared tubes 21 into a bag consisting of four rows - ten tubes in each. In the places indicated in the drawing, wrap this bag several times with threads and fasten with staple 23.

Glue the cradle 22 and secure the bag on it. Then glue the base from parts 24, 24′ and 25, after first attaching a cube of cork measuring 1X1X1 cm (with glue) to part 24′. Nail the base with the washer placed under it to the platform (the nail should be inserted from the underside of the platform), and glue the cradle with a package of tubes to the base. The assembled unit must rotate around its axis. If you want the cradle to change its angle, connect it to the base using a wire rod.

Rods 74 with tightly fitted drums 73 and loose washers 72 form the axles. Another rings 76 are glued to the drums of the middle and rear axles, between which a bead 75 is put on.

A large pulley is mounted on the middle axis, consisting of a drum 67 with a paper strip 38 screwed onto it and two disks 68. It can be installed only after the frame has been assembled.

The frame of the model is assembled from two spars and five cross beams. Bend the spars 34 into the letter P and glue paper strips 38 to them from below (their length is determined by location). Insert bushings 43 into the holes of the side members and place the finished parts on the axles. Make a beam 33, four beams 35 and glue them between the side members 34. Reinforce the front part of the frame with a bumper 31 with two hooks 32, and the rear with part 36 with one hook. Glue parts 44 to the frame on top.

Assemble the wheels according to the diagram shown in Figure 76. It does not require any special explanation. We only note that part 71 needs to be bent along the center line and given a conical shape. This is done

So. Insert the needle of the measuring compass into the center of the cross on the development, and use the second needle to press the fold line. Now it’s easy to give the workpiece a conical shape. Place the finished wheels firmly on the axles with glue so that the ends of the axles protrude 2 mm beyond the wheel rims.

Glue the finished cabin and platform with the launcher to the frame. On the left side of the platform, attach a gas tank glued together from skin 40 and frames 39. Roll up part 41 into a tube - it imitates the neck of the tank - and glue it into the hole of the tank from above. Glue a cover consisting of two parts 42 onto the neck. On the right side, glue a spare parts box (part 47) to the platform and make a step, glue aprons 45 on the back, and on top - a base for the DP-10 electric motor (part 46). For a micromotor of another type, you will have to design the base yourself.

Secure the microelectric motor to the base with adhesive tape or a cardboard clamp, place a small pulley on the shaft, connect it with a large pulley mounted on the middle axis (see Fig. 76 “Kinematic diagram”). Connect the engine to the control panel (CP), consisting of a battery and a three-position switch. Carry out sea trials. The model must perform three commands: “Forward”, “Backward” and “Stop”. If there are any shortcomings, eliminate them and move on to the final stage - finishing the model.

Finishing the model consists of sticking small parts. Reinstall handles 48 and 49, mirror holders 53 51. Glue film parts 51′ and 17′ onto the mirrors and headlights, after placing pieces of foil under them.

The model is assembled. Paint the chassis of the finished model with black ink, and the cabin and launcher- green gouache or tempera. You can paint a guards badge on the cabin doors. To make the model stronger and to prevent the paint from smearing, cover it with clear varnish or PVA glue.

Model scale 1:25.

BM-13 "KATYUSHA" MULTI-LAUNCH REPACT SYSTEM ON CHASSIS.

“Katyusha” is an unofficial collective name for mobile rocket launchers BM-8 (82 mm) and BM-13 (132 mm). Such installations were actively used by the USSR during the Second World War.

Back in 1916 a combat rocket using smokeless powder (a prototype of a later rocket) was invented by Ivan Platonovich Grave. In 1924 he received patent No. 122 for such a missile charge. Further work on the creation of rockets using smokeless powder continued until the Great Patriotic War.

The development team included Sergei Korolev. In March 1941, successful field tests of BM-13 installations with the M-13 projectile were carried out, and on June 21 a decree on their mass production was signed. On the night of June 30, 1941, the first two BM-13 combat launchers were assembled at the Comintern plant in Voronezh. Initially they were mounted on the ZIS-5 chassis, but the use of such a chassis was considered unsuccessful, and it was replaced by the ZIS-6. Subsequently, the BM-13 (BM-13N) was installed only on Studebaker (Studbacker-US6). An experimental artillery battery of seven vehicles under the command of Captain I. Flerov was first used against the German army at the railway junction of the city of Orsha on July 14, 1941. The first eight regiments of 36 vehicles each were formed on August 8, 1941. An improved modification of the BM-13N was created in 1943, and until the end of World War II, about 1,800 of these guns were manufactured. Range - about 5 km.

The weapon was inaccurate, but very effective when used in large numbers. The emotional effect was also important: during the salvo, all the missiles were fired almost simultaneously - within a few seconds, the territory in the target area was literally plowed up by heavy rockets. At the same time, the deafening howl that the rockets raised during the flight literally drove us crazy. Those who did not die during the shelling were often no longer able to resist, as they were shell-shocked, stunned, and completely psychologically suppressed. The mobility of the installation made it possible to quickly change position and avoid a retaliatory strike from the enemy.

Each vehicle had a box of explosives and a fuse cord. If there was a risk of the equipment being captured by the enemy, the crew was obliged to blow it up and thereby destroy the rocket systems.

The name “Katyusha” comes from the “KAT” (Kostikova Automatic Thermite) marking on the incendiary rockets used. And since the appearance of weapons in combat units coincided with the popularity of the song “Katyusha,” this name stuck.

We propose to build a model of the BM-13 Katyusha guards mortar on a Studebaker platform (Studbacker-US6).

Specifications

Engine: 6-cylinder, in-line.

Working volume -5240 cm W.

Power -95 hp at 2500 rpm.

Load capacity -2.5 t.

Weight -4850 kg.

Speed ​​-72 km/h.

M-13 rocket

Caliber, mm -132

Projectile weight, kg -42.3

Warhead mass, kg -21.3

Mass of explosive, kg -4.9

Maximum firing range, km -8.47

Salvo production time, 7-10 seconds.

Assembly instructions

1. Frame

The frame is assembled according to the scheme from parts 1-6. The folds are marked gray. Using part 7 we glue the front bumper 9 and towing hooks 8, we assemble the rear part from parts 10-15, part 13 is rolled up into a tube. For convenience, you can insert a strip of cardboard 1 mm thick. in detail 10.

Now you can assemble the pendant. First, three gearboxes are assembled from parts 30-36. Then, axles 29, 69 and 108 are threaded through each. Then, with the help of crosses 50, cardan shafts 51,70 and 71 are glued. It is more convenient to glue crosses 50 if you first put inside a piece cut out of cardboard in the shape of a cross. The transfer case is assembled from parts 72-1 and 72-2. The gearbox is assembled from parts 72-4 and 72-8 and glued to the transfer case using crosspieces 50 and cardan 72-3. The two rear axles are glued to the frame using part 66, to part 2 and with the help of springs. The rear springs are assembled from strips 21, which are first folded in half, glued and then glued to each other. After the package of springs is assembled, they need to be given a semicircular shape in place. Instead of parts 25 and 26, you can use a toothpick.

2. Wheels

Rear wheel discs are assembled from parts 203-206. Separately cut out the nuts 90 and glue them to the disk. Then we assemble the tire from parts 209-212. After assembly, the wheels are glued to axles 29 and 69.

The front wheel rims are assembled a little differently if you want to make them swivel. Part 208 is added to the front discs. The rotation mechanism is assembled as follows: part 95 is rolled up into a ring and part 92 is inserted inside and fixed with part 94. Part 92 should rotate freely inside part 95. Then part 92 is glued to the axis 108. Part 102 is glued inside the disk and Part 99 is glued to it. After this, the tire is put on the disk. The order of further assembly is clear from the diagram.

3. Engine

It is better to start assembling the engine from housing 111. Then glue it to it optional equipment. To facilitate gluing of part 112, a piece cut out of cardboard, 1 mm thick, shaped to fit, is glued inside. The remaining parts are glued in numerical order. After the engine, we assemble the radiator from parts 137-140. After assembly, the radiator and engine are glued to the frame - the engine to part 5, and the radiator using part 141. After this, the radiator is glued to the engine using a tube glued from parts 142-146.

4. Cabin

First we assemble the cabin interior. First, we assemble the instrument panel 180, which we glue to the front wall 186, and the floor 185 to it. We assemble the steering wheel 192 and the steering shaft 192-1. We fold the levers 194 in half and glue them together, and we do the same with the pedals 195. We glue the finished pedals and levers according to the diagram. Lastly, we glue the seat (198-199) and the interior of the cabin is ready. Now let's move on to the outer skin of the cabin. The cabin roof is assembled from parts 149-150. Ceiling 149-1 is glued to it from the inside. Then the back wall 148 and the side walls 160. The doors are folded and glued. Hinges are glued between the door halves. We glue the glass cut out from transparent film according to the templates on the last page and glue the windshield wipers 197. Then we assemble the hood. The front wing is glued from part 182. Part 182-1 is glued from the wrong side. We glue the side wall 181 to it. We assemble the hood cover 180 according to the diagram and glue it in place. We glue two headlights 201 and one smaller one 202, which is located on the spruce side, and glue the grille 200. At the back of the cabin we glue a gas tank 214-216.

5. Launcher

Assembly of the launcher begins with the assembly of the base 218, which is attached to the vehicle frame using parts 217. We glue control mechanisms 221-226 and 227-231 to the front part. Assembling guides for rockets. They consist of three parts. Parts 253 and 253-1 are bent to form the letter P turned on its side and glued together, then holes are cut in them, then strips 254 are glued to the top and bottom. The guides are connected to each other using parts 257 rolled up into a tube. According to the diagram, we assemble a tubular structure, with the help of which we glue the guides to the base of the launcher. The parts for gluing are pre-formed on a mandrel with a diameter of 2 mm. and glue the launcher to the frame to parts 217.

But our toy army also needs equipment to transport infantrymen and support the offensive with armored vehicles. We will now begin to fill this gap. Today we have to learn how to make cars from matchboxes.

To work, we will need several empty matchboxes, cardboard, an awl, a knife, PVA glue, scissors, a ruler, a compass and a simple pencil.

We will also need empty pen refills and insulated aluminum wire to make ours.

Well, let's get to work. Take and remove the box from it. In the box itself, make side cuts according to the dimensions indicated in Figure 1a. and bend it up at a slight angle. The part that is shaded must be trimmed. We put the box back into the box. We got the future car cabin.

Now take another box and cut its lid in half. Cut the removed one according to the dimensions indicated in the figure (Fig. 1b). Insert both parts of the cut box into the half box on both sides. Glue the resulting part to the cabin (Fig. 1c). Cut out two benches from the second half of the box (Fig. 1d) and secure them in the body with glue.

Next we will do chassis car. and with a compass draw twelve circles with a diameter of twenty millimeters on it (Fig. 1e). The circles should be cut out and glued together in four pieces (Fig. 1e). Cover the resulting wheels with prepared colored paper, as shown in the figure (Fig. 1g, H.).

Now take the pen rods and make two wheel pair axles out of them (Fig. 1k). Pierce all the wheels with an awl in the center and place them on the resulting axles. To prevent the wheels from flying off the axle, secure them with pieces of insulation from aluminum wire, carefully pulling it off with a knife.

Now we need to make bearings so that the wheelsets rotate freely and our homemade car can drive. We make bearings from cardboard (Fig. 1i). Bend the part along the dash-dot lines in the form of a triangle (Fig. 1k), insert the wheels there and glue them to the bottom of the car. That's it, our matchbox car is ready to transport soldiers. You can make any number of such cars, as long as there are enough boxes.

To make an armored personnel carrier from matchboxes, you need to carefully consider Figure 2. Its structure differs from a car only in that those boxes that are intended for making the hood (Fig. 2a, b) and making the turret (Fig. 2d, e) are cut diagonally And .

After you assemble the hood (Fig. 26), the body of the armored personnel carrier (Fig. 2c), and the turret (Fig. 2e), you need to cut out several round side and top rectangular hatches for the turret (Fig. 2g). We will also make motorized blinds (Fig. 2h).

The machine gun barrel can be carefully rounded off with a knife (Fig. 2f). Make a thickening by wrapping a thin copper wire around the base of the trunk and cover it with a strip of colored paper. Now take the metal tip of the rod and first pierce a hole in the thickening of the machine gun with an awl, attach it to the turret by inserting it into the turret hole pierced with the same awl.

Figures 3 and 4 show how to make a Katyusha and a rocket launcher. The principle of their manufacture is the same as that of the machines described above. They are similar to trucks, only instead of a body they are equipped with special platforms (Fig. 3e and 4d), consisting of two parts. One part is made from the box lid (bottom part).

For Katyusha it is made rotary. It rotates using a round piece, which can be made from a piece of paper or folded paper. One end of the tube is fixed motionless at the bottom of the platform (Fig. 3e), its other end is inserted into the hole “o” of the second platform, which remains motionless (Fig. 3h).

Glue the next part (e) to the inclined part of the platform (d), as shown in the figure (Fig. 3f).

We make six Katyusha barrels using a pencil, wrapping glued paper strips around it. Now you need to attach the trunks, three in a row, to the part (d.) (Fig. 4)

The platform, or rather its upper part (in) rocket launcher It's done a little differently. A longitudinal cut is made in the middle of the box, which bends inward and is secured with a clerical clip. Then the top honor is glued to the bottom of the platform (Fig. 4d).

Glue the entire platform assembly to the back of the Katyusha. For the rocket launcher we do the same.

For a rocket launcher. Make its body as follows: wrap a paper strip around a pencil (Fig. 4b) and glue its edge. Make the warhead and stabilizers as shown in the figure (Fig. 4e, f). All that remains is to glue them to the rocket body and secure it in the recess of the rocket platform.

All models made by us military equipment, you can paint it with paints or paste it over with colored paper.

Our army was replenished with powerful armored vehicles, which we made with our own hands from ordinary matchboxes.