What power is needed for an electric motor for a circular. Circular from the engine from the washing machine. Preparation for work

We will choose an electric motor for a circular saw taking into account established requirements.

The linear speed at the tip of the circle, which any saw blade can withstand, is 65 ... 75 (m / min).
The diameter of the used saw blade is 180 (mm).

We find the frequency of rotation of the motor shaft from the formula:

V = ωR, Where,

V- linear speed of the point
ω - angular velocity
R– radius (distance from point to center)

ω \u003d V / R \u003d 75 / 0.09 \u003d 833(rpm)

We chose AIRE 71 C4 asynchronous motor.

Description.

This type of motor is used as a drive mechanism in equipment for various purposes. Its advantages are that if you swap the phase, you can change the direction of rotation of the shaft. This is of great importance when designing equipment.

Aluminum bed on paws

Operating condition of the electric motor:

The air temperature should be in the range from - 45 ° to + 40 °;
- relative air humidity 100% at 25°

Specifications:

Mains voltage, V - 220
_network frequency, Hz - 50
_height of rotation axis, mm – 71
_mass, kg - 13
_ power, kW - 0.75
_speed, rpm – 1500
_Efficiency, % - 71
_nominal operating mode - S1 according to GOST 183-74
_insulation class – F
_cos φ - 0.9
_maximum stress deviations, % – from – 5 to +10
_maximum current frequency deviations % – ±2.5

This model of electric motor for circular saw has a low cost, provides good reliability and performance, and is easy to perform.

The figure shows the overall, installation and connection dimensions AIRE 71

Drive pulley diameter we select according to the gear ratio, which is defined as the ratio of engine speed to the operating speed of the saw blade, while taking into account that:

Minimum pulley diameter, mm - 50
minimum angle of wrapping the belt with a pulley, not less than ° - 90

1. We select a starter from the standard series in terms of current strength so that its contact group can withstand the applied load from a running engine.

A circular saw is a specialized piece of equipment that is used for sawing wood, laminate, some types of wall panels, sheet materials such as plywood, OSB, chipboard. When carrying out a number of construction and repair work and carpentry operations, the presence of a stationary type sawing machine can significantly reduce time costs and improve the quality of the result. If it is not possible to purchase a factory-made model, then you can assemble a circular saw with your own hands. To make it yourself, you will need the most common locksmith tools and the skill to work with them. The more necessary materials and parts are available, the cheaper the project will be.

A stationary circular saw is designed to perform fairly large amounts of work. The design of the implemented option in two forms is shown in the diagram below. It also indicates basic installation dimensions, from which it is recommended to build on self-assembly.

In the drawing, the following structural elements of home-made equipment correspond to the numbers:

• 1 - frame (bed);
• 2 - side panel;
• 3 - starting device;
• 4 - mechanism for adjusting the height of the table, 13 - its stops;
• 5, 6 and 7 - two halves of the sawing table with a base;
• 8 - electric motor;
• 9 - platform for installing the motor;
• 10 - studs (M10);
• 11 - saw;
• 12 - shaft;
• 14 and 16 - driven and driving pulleys, respectively;
• 15 - belt;
• 17 - switch.

Advice! To improve personal safety when operating a homemade mechanism, its rotating parts located under the table should be covered with lids. A protective cover must be installed over the disk during equipment downtime.

It is better to place the starting device in a prominent place on the panel (made of dielectric material) so that access to it is free. It is also recommended to equip the machine emergency switch. It is convenient when it is large.

Focusing on your own needs, you can improve the unit by making it with a jointer or planer. To do this, it is enough to fix the drum with knives on the existing shaft, and make a slot in the table for it of the appropriate size. This will expand the functionality of the created installation: planing lumber on it, chamfering and choosing a quarter from wooden blanks.

If you plan to regularly perform carpentry operations on home-made equipment, then it is recommended to equip it with coordinate table with multiple guides. They need to be fixed at different angles. To organize productive work, you should also provide for the possibility of regulating the speed of the electric motor and quickly replacing disks if necessary.

Selection of materials and details

When creating a homemade circular saw, it is necessary to maintain an optimal balance between its functionality, safety during operation and manufacturing costs. To achieve this, it is necessary to select materials and parts with the desired characteristics. To reduce costs, you need to build on old or unused equipment that is available.

Materials for the manufacture of a bed with a table

For the manufacture of the frame (frame), you can use channel or metal corners(enough size from 25x25mm to 50x50mm). If these materials are not available, then the most economical option is to purchase them at a scrap metal collection point. Water pipes or profile pipes made of metal will go to the legs of the machine.

Advice! The frame elements must be connected to each other using electric welding, because the bolted connections are untwisted under the influence of vibrations.

When assembling the frame, it is also required to weld spacers at the corners to stiffen the structure. To facilitate the movement of the machine, you can equip it with durable wheels (with a metal rim) equipped with locks. It should be borne in mind that the more massive the unit being created, the more stable it must be in order to avoid injury.

Metal pipe frame

The main requirements for a circular table are: resistance to mechanical stress (vibration, shock), the ability to withstand workpieces weighing more than 50 kg without deflection, and surface smoothness. These properties are characterized by sheets of the following materials:

• become;
• duralumin;
• silumin;
• textolite;
• moisture resistant plywood;
• organic glass.

If use moisture resistant plywood, then it should first be upholstered with zinc-coated tin. The use of chipboard or OSB is not recommended due to the instability of these sheet materials to vibration effects.

Important! The strength of the table is of great practical importance. If it cracks or is skewed due to deflection, the disc may jam. This can lead not only to damage to the workpiece, but also to injury.

To carry out various work (for example, spreading logs on boards), you need to equip a table side stop. It performs the same function as the guide rail for a hand-held circular saw: it ensures smooth sawing of lumber. At the same time, its use allows obtaining blanks of different sizes.

Guide stop must be strictly parallel to the disk to avoid jamming of the latter. It can be made from a wooden block or a metal corner. In the first case, only hardwood should be used. To be able to adjust the working gap, the stop must be removable. It can be fixed with clamps or in special grooves (bolts) made parallel to each other on the working surface of the tabletop.

Choice of engine and starting equipment

As a drive for the considered version of a home-made circular machine, it is easiest to use single-phase electric motor. Its power must be selected taking into account the upcoming load. Indirectly, you can navigate by the diameter of the installed disk:

• if it is 350 mm, then for the normal operation of the unit you need an electric motor with a power of 1000 W;
• for a disc with a diameter of 170 mm, a 500 W motor is sufficient.

In the latter case, it is possible to make a drive mechanism from an engine from a washing machine. It is able to work for a long time at an average load level. For discs with a diameter of 350 mm, an electric motor from an industrial ventilation unit is suitable. It should be fixed rigidly to ensure proper engagement of the belt drive. For this reason, it will not be possible to reduce the level of vibrations by installing the motor on shock absorbers: it will constantly fluctuate.

You can also equip homemade equipment three-phase electric motor(at 380 V) of suitable power. To start it from a 220 V network, you will need to additionally install a working (phase-shifting) and starting capacitors in the electrical circuit. It should also be borne in mind that the engine power in this case will be less than the nominal value indicated on its plate or in the passport.

Starting equipment should be selected based on the power of the motor, on which the maximum current in the circuit will depend. A good option is to use a start button in conjunction with thermal protection - this will protect the electric motor from burning out the windings if the current increases when the disk is jammed. It is better to install protection in a separate electrical panel attached to the side panel of the machine from a convenient side.

All connections must be well insulated so that the wires are not shorted to the frame of a homemade circular saw. The on and off buttons should be pressed without any effort. Due to the frequent storage of equipment outdoors, the electrical part must be well protect from getting wet. The simplest is to cover the unit with oilcloth or similar waterproof material.

Transmission, shaft and disc

To transfer rotation from the electric motor to the disk, the best option is to use V-belt together with pulleys from the car engine. Gears are not recommended for safety reasons. This is due to the fact that if the disk jams, the belt will simply slip, and the gear transmission, due to its rigidity, can cause the entire drive unit to fail.

Advice! If you use pulleys of different diameters, then it will be possible to change the speed of the disk and install various types of it on the machine. This is true in the absence of a motor speed controller.

Shaft manufacturing it is better to entrust a specialist by ordering it from a professional turner. Especially when it is planned to make the circular saw more functional by equipping it, for example, with a planer. But the easiest option is to buy a finished factory-made part. Her sample is shown in the photo below.

Disc for circular machine it is easier to buy ready-made than to make it from a sheet of tool steel. The problem is balancing. The imbalance of the saw during the operation of the equipment leads to its rapid failure and reduces the level of safety of the work process. If there is a circular saw for wood, then you can remove the saw blade from it.

It is necessary that the diameter of the blade matches the corresponding parameter of the sawn timber being cut: for example, for 100 mm logs, you will need to use a saw with a size of approximately 350 mm. This is due to the fact that the disk should not protrude more than a third of its diameter above the working surface of the table.

Ignoring this requirement leads not only to a deterioration in the quality of sawing workpieces, but also increases the possibility of injury.

Algorithm for assembling a homemade circular saw

The assembly of the woodworking machine according to the previously given drawing is performed in the following sequence:

• from the corners make a rectangular frame;
• four legs are welded to it at the corners of the desired height;
• at a height of about 200 mm from their lower edge, they make a harness from the corners;
• a shaft is mounted on the upper frame;
• a driven pulley is fixed on one side of it, and a disk on the other;
• a table with a lifting mechanism is made and attached to the frame;
• on the lower frame, a platform is made of corners or sheet metal for an electric motor;
• a drive pulley is fixed on the motor shaft;
• put the belt on the pulleys;
• on the side panel of the unit, on and off buttons and an electrical panel are mounted;
• using wires of a suitable section, connect the elements of the electrical circuit of the equipment (motor, buttons, protection);
• supply power to the machine from a fixed network.

The final step is checking the performance of the assembled equipment. To begin with, it is worth making sure that all moving parts rotate freely: for this, just twist the drive pulley by hand. Then you can run the unit in test mode. If a strong vibration is detected, then it will be necessary to check the reliability of the bolted connections and the fixation of the disc.

You can make a circular saw with a table consisting of two halves or one piece. In the latter case, it will need to cut a rectangular slot for the disk. The design of the machine with a table consisting of two halves is shown in the video below. Also in this video, the device of the lifting mechanism for these parts is demonstrated.

Important! To prevent the saw from jamming due to the connection of fragments of the workpiece being cut, it is recommended to install a riving knife. It should be positioned at a distance of approximately 3 mm behind the disc.

To adjust the belt tension, the motor must be installed so that it can be moved. The easiest way to achieve this is to create larger slots than are required for the motor mounting bolts. In this case, the expansion of the holes must be carried out in the direction of the belt tension.

If you follow the drawing completely, you will need to make a more complex belt tension mechanism. The process will be carried out by pulling up the platform with the electric motor with the help of studs and fixing it with locking bolts in the desired position (in the drawing, these structural elements are indicated by the number 10).

The entire design and assembly process can be greatly simplified if circular saw blade. In this case, the need to mount a number of parts (motor, disk, shaft, belt, starter) is eliminated. But the capabilities of the created model will be limited by the power of the tool used.

Homemade circular anyway must be grounded. It is also recommended to install a residual current device or a differential circuit breaker in the shield. These measures will protect against electric shock if the machine body is energized, for example, due to a breakdown in wire insulation. Components for the electrical part of the circular machine are best chosen so that they are suitable for repair and easy to maintain. Free access to equipment nodes will help to replace failed parts without any problems.

How to make a homemade circular?

• Circular mini-saw: manufacturing summary

• Base for mini circular
• Motor installation

Circular saw made do it yourself, is a good way to save a lot of money and at the same time get enough high-quality and reliable equipment. A properly assembled home-made circular saw is in no way inferior to a factory saw and is also capable of sawing logs of even very large diameters.

A circular saw is used for straight cuts in lumber.

How to make a homemade circular?

In order for the circular saw to easily cut huge logs, it is necessary to equip it with a truly massive electric drive. In addition, for this purpose, a belt drive, a shaft and an engine with the highest traction force are installed on it. All do-it-yourself circular saws consist of 2 parts: upper and lower.

In the lower part, various electrical equipment is always placed, namely:

Design circular saw.

• saw motor;
• transformer;
• device that starts the circulation.

In the upper part of the circular saw set:

Large homemade circular saw

When making a frame for the top of the saw, it is best to use a metal corner 25 mm wide. In this case, the rectangle, which will be the frame of the upper part of the homemade circular, should have dimensions of 600x400 mm. Further, four pipes are welded in the corners of this quadrangle, the diameter of which should be 17 mm and the height should be approximately 2.2 m.

After that, two corners must be strengthened on the frame, on which the bearings will later be fixed. The distance between these corners directly depends on the length of the shaft. To fix the bearings, as a rule, clamps are used. Best of all, if the bearings mounted on a homemade circular are of a closed type. So you can not be afraid that wood chips will fall into the space between the balls, rings and separator. Don't forget to also cut the threads at the very end of the shaft so that you can later install a cutting disc on it.

Circular saw device.

The lower part of the circular saw should be made much more massive, which will provide it with the necessary stability and reliability. Therefore, in the manufacture of the lower frame, you need to take a corner with a width of at least 40 mm. Further across the frame, it is necessary to fix two more additional corners, on which in the future it will hold engine homemade circular. The most suitable motor for a do-it-yourself circular saw is an asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of at least 1.5 kW and 1500 rpm. The pulley stream should be large enough, approximately 80 mm, and should be mounted directly on the shaft itself. In addition, you will need to weld a rather small metal platform to the frame, on which the launcher will be placed. Large pipes 2.2 m long, which were previously welded by you in the corners of the frame, are necessary for high-quality tension of the belt so that the metal lambs tighten the thin pipes.

Circular with motor 1.5 kw at 1500 rpm 220 volts

Electric motor for circulars 220V 4kW 3000r.p.

Measurement with a mechanical tachometer requires direct contact with the surface of the object.

Now, in the finished supports made of pipes, it is necessary to insert both the lower and upper parts of the homemade saw, and then tighten and tighten the belt with metal winglets. Starting the motor in this model of the circular with your own hands is carried out using starting capacitors. In order to load the motor and increase its torque, a 220/36 400 W transformer can be used.

Pendulum circular with electric motor

Scheme for checking the performance of a circular saw.

Do homemade circular can be quite easy to cut logs and blocks of wood, the thickness of which corresponds to the power of the electric drive installed on it. If you intend to work with large and very thick blocks of wood, then you should equip your homemade saw with a really powerful electric motor, as well as install a shaft and a belt drive on it. The best solution in this case would be to install a special pendulum bed.

In the manufacture of pendulum circulars with your own hands, only very strong steel corners should be used as the material for the frame. Next, on the finished steel frame, you will need to place all the mechanisms necessary for the normal operation of a homemade circular saw. With this design, you can personally, without any special effort, set the height of the flight of the cutting disc, while avoiding excessive design difficulties.

Circular mini saw: instructions for making

Base for mini circular

For the manufacture of such homemade products you will need:

• two metal plates;
• wooden beam;
• spindle from a bicycle;
• star;
• chain.

The device of a circular saw with a separate motor.

The mini-circular should stand on a solid and stable table, since any rocking can be dangerous to human health and also interfere with normal operation of the saw. Before proceeding with the manufacture of a machine from a hand-held circular saw, it is necessary to make a special table. In this case, metal goats and an ordinary old kitchen table can be used as a bed. To begin with, you will need to connect the goats to each other with a wide wooden board with a thickness of at least 50 mm, and then fix the kitchen table on this base.

You can make the tabletop itself from two metal (preferably steel) plates with a cross section of about 4 mm. In addition, for this purpose, you can use thick wooden blocks.

It is important not to forget to leave a small gap between the metal sheets, the size of which is usually 10-12 mm.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of the metal plates are perfectly parallel with respect to each other. Now that the table is completely ready, you can start attaching to it yourself circular saw. It is important to note that it should be fixed from below, and in such a way that its cutting disc is directly in the gap between two sheets of the tabletop.

Engine installation

To make a homemade circular, you need to think in advance with which device the force from the motor will be transmitted to the cutting disc. Small equipment can be placed directly on the motor axle. However, this will not have the best effect on the power of a do-it-yourself circular.

As such a transmission mechanism, without which the operation of any circular saw is impossible, an ordinary bicycle spindle can act. This is often called the housing in which the shaft with bearings is located. You can use a hacksaw to cut it off the bike. In this case, the asterisk will not be useful to you, since in this case it is best to take it from the D6 or D8 engine. In order for this sprocket to sit securely on the new shaft, you will need to make an adapter sleeve. Before installing a circular saw on a bicycle spindle, you must make sure that it has required you size of the mounting hole. Now, taking into account this information, it is necessary to set the value of the outer diameter of the sleeve intended for the transition mechanism. The bushing should be attached to the spindle in several places at once. Next, a plate with a thickness of at least 5 mm should be fixed on the body of the spindle assembly.

Now take an asterisk, about 2-2.5 times the size of the one that was previously installed on the spindle, and install it on a homemade circular. And at the end of the work on making a saw with your own hands, when all its parts are well fixed, put on the chain and you can use it for its intended purpose.

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major repairs or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular yourself, using the materials that are available in the household.

Design - the main nodes, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

• adaptation of an existing hand tool, using an engine and a circular saw for new opportunities;
• improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
• assembly from separate parts, made mainly in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, an engine, and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table serves for fixing woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled completely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machine tools with a large engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it must be borne in mind that the countertop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding a considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For a homemade circular, the engine from the washing machine is well suited. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, they are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if there is no 380 V on the farm, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work from 220 V.

The most responsible node is the shaft. Use ready-made, if available, or machined from round metal. Work on a lathe is performed in one setup, then, together with the working bodies, the centering is checked. Even the minimum beat is unacceptable, otherwise it will become stronger in work, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planer knives.

Basic parameters - calculation of power, revolutions, transmission

The characteristics of the saw blade, the engine and the maximum thickness of the lumber that can be cut are interrelated. On the purchased circular disk, the maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The power of the motor influences the maximum allowable sawtooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that for sawing materials with a thickness of 100 mm, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material is jammed, the belt slips on the pulleys. Traumatism in such cases is practically excluded. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum allowable number of revolutions of the circular saw. We calculate the required diameters of the pulleys. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the shaft for the circular to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the revolutions of the engine, as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

For working with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, choose a quarter. Requires a sufficiently powerful electric motor, hard table. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, it is possible to plan boards with a width of 200 mm. A three-phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. Capacitors are required for connection to 220V.

1 - machine frame; 2 - panel; 3 - starter; 4 - a device for adjusting the height; 5.7 - desktop of two halves; 6 - base; 8 - engine; 9 - platform; 10 - studs M10; 11 - circular disk; 12 - shaft; 13 - stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 - driven pulley; 15 - belt; 16 - drive pulley; 17 - switch.

The working table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform, it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the rest of the dimensions to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.

First, we make the bed frame from steel corners 25 × 25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another same lower frame. For a frame with a greater height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has slots for the motor platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. Tightening the studs, tighten the belts, then lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45 °. In total, eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach the crossbars to the outer racks. In the middle of each of them we drill holes, weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to control the rise.

At the end, they rest against the racks welded to the drawers assembled from the corners of 75 × 50 mm. On the side, we weld the studs into them opposite the grooves for the adjusting mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the sides with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

• loosen the nuts on the racks;
• turn the screw that presses the stop, raising or lowering the table;
• tighten the stud nuts;
• perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing the adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but as a solid one, you will need only four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It is easy to make a stationary one from a manual circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Finnish plywood will serve as a convenient material, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces slide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and can be processed well. You can use ordinary plywood 20 mm, only it needs to be painted, and it is better to cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

It must be understood that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disc so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient so that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that an electric planer and a jigsaw can be additionally strengthened on a wide table, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, process the edges. With the sole we apply a hand circular to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for a circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the countertop. This manufacturing method will bring the depth of cut closer to the circular saw indicated in the passport.

We make a frame (tsargi) from the boards, which we will install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue it to the countertop, securing it with clamps. Through the table we screw screws into the boards. The holes for them are countersinked on top so that the heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden. We fasten the legs to the sides of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts with washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a restrictive bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install a socket connected to the network on the drawer. In the break of the wire going to the saw, we mount the switch.

Some moments of the execution of home-made devices

No matter how well the circular is made, individual errors can lead to the fact that its performance will be limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. The installation of conventional is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls, adjustable by tightening the clamping nut. Install a cover to protect against dust, chips is mandatory.

On the working surface, we put a scale in centimeter increments. This will make it much easier to work with the tree when determining the width of the cut. Many neglect to install a protective shield over the disc, but in vain - treatment from chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with different materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A self-made design, as a rule, does not have the ability to control the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of various diameters. They are mounted on the motor shaft. If you undertake to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine without having 380 V. You will need capacitors rated for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 μF for a working capacitor Cf. We take the capacity of the starting Cn twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. The start is simple: SQ is turned on, SB is pressed for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is the longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

• base;
• sawing table;
• parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel emphasis.

So, the parallel stop is the movable part of the machine, which is the guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop, because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw curve may jam.

In addition, the rip fence of a circular saw must be of a fairly rigid construction, as the worker is exerting force by pressing the workpiece against the fence, and if the fence is allowed to move, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops, depending on the methods of its attachment to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a design of a parallel stop for a circular with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

The following tools will be used for work:

1. Circular saw or can be used.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
4. Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

In the process, you will also need the following materials:

1. Plywood.
2. Massive pine.
3. Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
4. Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
5. Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
6. Self-tapping screws.
7. Joiner's glue.

The design of the stop of the circular machine

The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

• The base of the transverse part;

1. Longitudinal part

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part;

1. clamp

• Cam handle

Making a circular

Preparation of blanks

A couple of things to note:

• planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

At 22 mm, we drill a hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this with drilling, but you can just fill it with a nail.

In the circular saw used for work, a home-made movable carriage is used from (or as an option, you can make a false table “in haste”), which is not very a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the hat.

As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece, which must be processed with a belt or eccentric grinder.

We make the handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Cross section of the guide

We proceed to the manufacture of the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

• The base of the transverse part;
• Upper transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
• Lower transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
• End (fixing) bar of the transverse part.

Upper cross clamp

Both clamping bars - upper and lower have one end not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when sawing blanks.

The upper transverse clamping bar is used to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the move and remove all defects that prevent smooth sliding, in addition, it is necessary to check the tightness of the inclined edges; gaps and cracks should not be.

With a snug fit, the strength of the connection (fixing the guide) will be maximum.

Assembly of the transverse whole part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, it remains only to ennoble the edges. This is done with edging tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

And also additionally fix with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to observe the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Guide rail installation

It's time to fix our entire structure on a circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the bar of the transverse stop to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the do-it-yourself circular saw is ready.

Video

The video on which this material was made.