Cap and suvel. Native exotic.

Sooner or later, when you get involved in the fascinating business of making knives, you want to use something more beautiful on the handle than your native beech, walnut or cherry. Catalogs of stores for knife makers are full of exotic names and photographs of extraordinary beauty and design of pieces of wood. All these “Amboina Burly” are not so cheap...

But also in our northern forests, you can find wood that is hardly inferior in beauty to Australian exotics. We will talk about KAPA and SUVELI.

First you need to decide what is what? Some sources claim that burl and suvel are one and the same thing. I don't agree with this.

So - cap.

Burl is a rounded growth on a trunk or branch formed by small woody nodules of adventitious and dormant buds. On the surface there can be, and more often than not, many small shoots and twigs. Mouth guards meet mainly on deciduous species: oak, walnut, maple, poplar, but most often on birch. In the future, this is what we will talk about.

If you're lucky, you can find a branch burl - a kind of ball growing on a thin branch. It is small, like all mouthguards, and, unlike suveli, it has a “needle-like” structure and a very small, pronounced pattern in the form of dots and dashes.

Growths on trunks are more common.

And even more often - the basal burl, “cap-root” - it can be very large, but the pattern of this “giant” is not so pronounced and contrasting.

Under the bark of the growth, the surface of the tree is uneven, there are many protrusions in the form of spines and tubercles.

Burl wood is 50 - 70% denser than the wood of the tree itself, the fibers are interwoven, multidirectional, plus a large number of darker inclusions formed by “dormant” buds, which is why the burl is unusually beautiful both on crafts and on knife handles.

It is difficult to process due to its “twisted” structure, but this gift of nature is worth it.

According to some estimates, 1 tree with a burl accounts for, on average, 3000-5000 ordinary trees without a burl.

Therefore, finding a “worthy” mouthguard is quite difficult... Unlike suveli.

Suvel.

Suvel is formed by overgrown annual rings of a tree. The structure of the growth, as the name implies (also called svil), is twisted, caused by twisted annual rings.

Reaches enormous sizes. In the Vatican there is a font carved from one growth. But, according to my observation, the smaller the suvel, the more saturated its pattern. Under the bark of the growth, the surface is lumpy, but without “spikes”, like on a burl, but in the form of large, smoothly flowing depressions and “hills”. Suvel is well polished, and, polished, impregnated linseed oil For example, wood is very beautiful - it seems to glow from within, the pattern is multidirectional, with a mother-of-pearl tint.

It is also difficult to process, but easier than cap.

IT IS PREFERABLE TO CUTT OUT THE GROWTH DURING THE DRY TIME OF THE YEAR, IDEAL AT THE END OF AUGUST, THE BEGINNING OF SEPTEMBER, BEFORE THE COMMONATION STARTS.

The cut area must be protected - painted over with paint or thick lime.

Views: 31046

15.05.2017

The tree is the most common plant on earth.

Nature is incredibly generous, since it has given a person not only the opportunity to admire the beauty of trunks and leaves, but also to derive practical benefits from wood, because for several thousand years people have been using wooden products in their everyday life, building houses, boats, making furniture and household utensils, producing musical instruments, crafts, etc.

To date, there is no material that can completely replace the wonderful natural properties wood, since its density, color, texture, texture pattern and shades are unique in each case.

The natural uniqueness of the wood pattern is especially evident in cape And suveli(spherical or teardrop-shaped growths on trees), which pundits identified as diseases.

These formations create a complex enchanting pattern of wood fibers inside, consisting of an interweaving of colored lines, spots, inclusions, smoothly flowing into each other, which thus form a pattern of special beauty. Thanks to the richness of colors and lines, both burl and suvel are excellent natural material for the production of various crafts, decorations, and interior items, since they have an exclusive texture (it is impossible to find two identical patterns in nature) and special strength and durability.

Let's try to determine how burl and suvel differ from each other, and what they have in common.

Cap

Cap ( caporoot or as it is also popularly called " witch's broom") is a round, benign formation on a trunk or branch with a large number of woody nodules. The burl differs from the suveli in that it has many bumps on its outer side, which are created thanks to accessory and dormant buds. These formations look like dark spikes and tubercles, which is why, often on the burl, you can see small shoots and twigs growing directly from it.

According to some scientists, a burl on a tree occurs as a result of either a sharp change in the development of the plant, that is, it can have both a natural and anthropogenic cause. Some scientists believe that the appearance of an ugly tumor on a tree may be a hereditary deformity.

Burl is found mainly on deciduous trees, such as oak, linden, maple, alder, poplar, walnut, but most often it can be found on birch.

It has been noticed that on average, for one tree with a burl, there are from three to five thousand trees without such formation, so finding a good burl (unlike suveli) is quite difficult.

Most often on trees there is a root burl, which can simply be gigantic size.

Usually, caporoot It has a faint texture inside and a weak color contrast pattern.

A burl formed on a branch often has the shape of an irregular ball and, unlike a bonnet root, when cut transversely, its internal texture is replete with patterns with the cores of knots and has a peculiar “needle-like” structure in the form of a small ornament with dashes and dots. The internal fibers of wood intertwine with each other in different directions, creating a picturesque pattern, and inclusions of dormant buds make the texture even richer, so burl is most often used as a decorative element in the manufacture of various crafts, knife handles, gun butts, original dishes and other souvenirs.

Due to the strong density of its texture and the huge number of knots, the burl is not easy to process, but at the same time it is perfectly sanded and polished.

The main color of the internal texture of the burl is various shades of black or brown colors, ocher. Even if you take two halves of the same burl, they will still be different and have a different pattern, the structure of the build-up is so heterogeneous.

The wood of the burl is stronger than that of the suveli, and fifty to seventy percent stronger than that of the tree on which it was formed.

Small items are also made from burl: boxes, cigarette cases, hairpins, earrings, bracelets, and small jewelry.

There is no point in creating a carved pattern on the burl, since the texture and texture of the wood is beautiful in itself.

Suvel

The formation of suveli is caused by a tree disease (cancer) and it most often represents a growth twisted and woven into a lump, which is why it is also called let's svilem.

Typically, the wisp grows two to three times faster than the tree itself and has a teardrop-shaped or spherical shape located around the trunk or branch. The main difference between suveli and burl is that it is formed not from dormant buds, but due to the complex interweaving of annual rings curved in different directions (hence the name svil). By this feature, cones on a tree can be easily distinguished from each other.

Growths (especially on birch) are quite common, although the reason for its formation has not been fully studied. Presumably, the formation of a tangle can be initiated by a fungus or mechanical damage to the tree bark.

Suvel (popularly called wood bone), since its cut resembles the stains of marble (with the same iridescence and radial section), and the thin parts are visible through and look like bone, although the density of the tissues, as mentioned above, in suveli is less than in burl, therefore its wood is less durable.

A suveli growth can grow to gigantic proportions (for example, in the Vatican there is a font carved from a single piece of wood). However, the finer the pattern, the richer and brighter the pattern inside, although the pattern with ornamental elements will in any case be softer (without the “spikes” and “needles” patterns required for a burl).

The internal texture of suveli has a delicate pearlescent tint, and the colors of each can vary greatly and contain white, yellow (resembling the color of amber), as well as brown, pinkish and green colors. The shade of suveli depends on where the tree grows and how it is dried.

You can form a suvel yourself; to do this, just tie a tree trunk or branch with wire. At the site of the constriction, a convex formation created by annual rings will soon appear.

Suvel also lends itself well to processing, can be sanded and polished well, and its mother-of-pearl cut, reminiscent of marble, plays with streaks, has a unique texture and seems to glow from within.

Of course, it was possible to determine by appearance how much it would be beautiful drawing, it is impossible, but the more clumsy and twisted the growth looks externally, the richer its texture and pattern will be inside.

The root (butt) part of suveli is considered the most valuable. It is of interest to woodcarvers, artists, knife makers, sculptors and cabinetmakers, who choose this material for its exclusive cut pattern, high strength, resistance to rotting and unique processing ability.

Finding and preparing growths

Naturally, it is necessary to look for bulges on a tree in the forest. At the same time, many people confuse burl and svil with a similar mushroom from the genus (Inonotus), which most often lives on birch and is called chaga or black birch mushroom.

You need to learn to determine where the mushroom is and where the growth is.

The best time to cut down saplings and burls is in the fall (September-October), when the trees stop the natural movement of sap and begin preparing for winter.

It must be remembered that without a good saw, suvel or burl, especially if they are very clumsy, it is not easy to cut down, so this work is best done with a chainsaw, but it must be remembered that the tool chains quickly become dull due to the special strength of the build-up.

If you don’t have a chainsaw, you will have to use a hand saw, but it must have sharp edges good divorce cloves so that the master does not torment himself or the tree, and does not injure him in vain.

The cut site (to avoid the formation of an unwanted hollow for the tree) must be immediately covered with garden varnish, painted over with oil paint or covered with clay.

When a massive caporoot, it must be remembered that cutting it is fraught with serious consequences for the tree and as a result of the injury it may die.

All of the above properties of both burl and svilya elevate these unique materials at the top of the value among other types of wood, since they are used both in the finishing of various utilitarian items, as well as jewelry, small plastic items and utensils.

Message quote Cap, suvel. Harvesting, drying, properties. BURN PRODUCTS

Cap, suvel. Harvesting, drying, properties.

The author of this material is a great specialist in the artistic processing of wood (and not only wood), already familiar to us from the carved Easter egg, Sergei from the Moscow region. Today Sergey will reveal to readers the secret of quick drying of such rare and interesting materials as burl and suvel. The information is very rare and useful. Reading...

So first, let's define some concepts.
KAP - (aka witch's broom) is a benign formation on a tree, which is a bunch of thin branches growing from a teardrop-shaped (most often) growth. When viewed cross-section, it has a texture with pronounced knot cores. It is difficult to process due to its highly curled texture and a huge number of knots. Extremely beautiful, durable, perfectly sanded and polished.
Numerous individual areas have a pearlescent tint. It has no great industrial significance, but is highly valued because of its beauty. If it is used in industry, it is only in the form of veneer for finishing furniture (burls from exotic tree species are mainly used), as well as the production of small products such as boxes, cigarette cases, women's hairpins, and small jewelry (birch burls). Use on knife handles is considered good taste, and is also valued by wood carvers for its unique texture.
It is impossible to find two identical pieces of burl; even the halves of a sawn burl have different patterns, the build-up is so heterogeneous. It grows on many trees (linden, alder, birch, maple, oak, etc.), but the most valuable and beautiful is birch (of those growing in our latitudes). The growth is usually small, maximum the size of a volleyball ball or the size of a large plate.
There is no point in cutting any pattern on the burl, since the texture clogs everything up.
The photo shows a birch burl. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a cut of a birch burl (I took these pictures near my native police station and, as you understand, they wouldn’t let me cut anything down there... But I contrived and found an ash burl; most of the burls are similar in texture and only differ color and size of the knots' cores.

SUVEL - (aka svil) As is clear from the name, the growth received its name because of its structure (twisted structure, that’s putting it mildly). Suvel is a drop-shaped or spherical growth on a tree (there is also a ring variety that covers the tree trunk around the perimeter), usually grows 2-3 times faster than the tree itself. When cut, it has a texture similar in pattern to marble and mother-of-pearl (this is the main sign of difference from KAPA; in the future, do not confuse suvel and burl).
The presence of mother-of-pearl stains on polished wood creates a beautiful shimmering picture that glows from within. Svil is also poorly processed, like burl, but not as hard. The size varies from a nut to 1.5 meters in height (I myself saw one on a birch) and up to 2 meters in diameter (a ring-shaped suvel that completely covered the tree trunk). In the Vatican there is a font much more than a meter in diameter, carved from a single piece of suveli. I myself was once sitting in a chair carved from suveli. It holds fine threads perfectly, but cutting suvel is not recommended. It is better to sand and varnish (impregnate with oil). The product will only benefit from this.
The most valuable is the root or butt fork. The presence of dark veins and clearly defined twisted annual rings. This is a fairytale. BEAUTIFUL, that says it all. Barrel suvel has a finer texture and a more subtle “frosty” pattern. And lighter wood. In terms of strength, butt suvel is slightly superior to trunk suvel due to the structure of the tree trunk. Suvel is durable, beautiful, easy to polish and grind. Well-dried and treated, it begins to “glow” from the inside (with proper impregnation with oils, the wood becomes like amber and even a little transparent). Usually has a color from soft yellow to pinkish-brown to completely ocher-brown. It all depends on the conditions and drying time. The cap has the same colors.
Photos:

As you can see, the cap is not at all similar to suvel.

CHAGA is a mushroom (not to be confused with the tinder fungus!!!) and we do not need it for our purposes.

So, how to dry it. I’ll say right away that the “steaming” method is suitable for small pieces of wood. About half the size of a football or a small log.

1. We cut off the growth. We do this with a sharp saw. Otherwise, you will get tired of sawing, and the tree will begin to become shaggy. We do not peel off the bark. Don't forget to cover the cut on the wood with oil paint or wax or something similar.

IT IS PREFERABLE TO CUTT OUT THE GROWTH DURING THE DRY TIME OF THE YEAR, IDEAL AT THE END OF AUGUST, THE BEGINNING OF SEPTEMBER, BEFORE THE COMMONATION STARTS.

2. Take an unnecessary pan (bucket) and throw a piece of wood there. The pan is unnecessary, since during the cooking process a very tricky broth is formed which is then very troublesome to wash off. It is better to clean the wood of any rags of birch bark and other fragile and dangling pieces. they will still fall off.
I'm considering exactly birch growth, as the most affordable and beautiful, the remaining growths are cooked using the same technology. The log is accordingly cleaned of any debris and fragile particles. Pour water. It is convenient to do this with a faceted glass (it contains 250 ml). The water should cover the piece of wood by about a centimeter or two. The tree naturally floats up, but let’s press it to the bottom and we’ll see everything. It doesn’t matter what kind of water you pour, cold or hot, it will still boil. You can throw a piece of wood into a saucepan as much as you like; what is important is the volume of an individual piece of wood and not the total volume of wood.

3. Take table salt, whatever you don’t mind. We're not making soup. For a liter of water, pour 2 large tablespoons of salt (who will count glasses of water??? Eh?). You can do more, as much as you like, it’s okay, it’s impossible to overdo it.
The main thing is that the water is sickly salty. You can use sea clean water(precisely clean, otherwise it will smell disgusting of mud).
The salt will draw sap from the tree, but will not saturate the tree.

4. Find sawdust of resinous wood. Spruce and pine are the easiest to get. Take a saw and go ahead. We need two powerful handfuls of sawdust (raking the sawdust with both hands). Precisely sawdust, not shavings from a simple hand plane.
The shavings will come from an electric planer (you can get them at the nearest sawmill or plan them yourself). I always use them. They are quite small and are usually plentiful and easy to obtain. The more resin in the sawdust, the better. And the finer the sawdust, the better. Pour into a saucepan. You could have taken a bigger saucepan! Sawdust will give the suveli a pleasant ocher color. From soft pink-yellow to ocher-brown. Resins will also add strength to the wood and reveal texture.

5. When the water boils, reduce the heat and leave it simmering for 6-8 hours, longer if you have the patience.
If the saucepan is large, then you don’t have to turn down the flame, let the water boil and bubble. But you need to watch so that the water does not boil away completely. Salt, sawdust, temperature and time will do their job. Add water as needed. During the cooking process, a red “broth” is formed. And scale. It is better to remove scale immediately. It is very difficult to wash off.

6. 6-8 hours have passed (depending on the size of the piece of wood). We take out the piece of wood. We rinse under running water to remove sawdust. We dump the water from the pan as unnecessary, but you can leave it for next time if you have somewhere to store it. But it's easier to pour out the water. We throw the growth onto the cabinet, wrapping it in nothing. Let it cool for a day or two.

7 We repeat the cooking and drying process 2-4 times depending on the volume of the wood.
To speed up the process, you can use a pressure cooker. The time is reduced to 4-6 hours.

8. During the last cooking, you need to quickly peel off the bark while the tree is hot. Although she herself should fall off by this time. Carefully!!! Hot!!! use gloves!

9. We throw it on the closet for a week or two. The tree is basically already dry, but let the remaining moisture go away.
The tree will “get used” to the atmosphere. After final drying, the wood will become bone-like and can be cut, sawed, or sanded. There will be no foreign smell. It will only smell like wood.

10. In the process of accelerated drying of wood, it must be remembered that small cracks may appear, and therefore it is necessary to allow allowance for their removal in subsequent processing.

11. Where to look for growths... Naturally in the forest. BUT! There are no specific places of growth, they grow spontaneously, and the biggest and most beautiful growths will be found by the most big-eyed and persistent. This activity is akin to mushroom hunting; whoever ran around the forest further and further got more.
Look like that's it. I remind you once again that large pieces cannot be dried like this. Cracked. Necessarily. Verified.

12. After the wood has finally gotten used to the atmosphere, you can start working with the workpiece. It is advisable to soak the suvel and cap with oil, and if desired, with wax too. The wood will reveal its texture, it will “play,” as they say, and all its inner beauty will appear.

If you have any questions or any clarifications about the technology described above, I will answer to the best of my ability.

I’ll end with this, your Serjant.

OlegNA 08-07-2011 13:25

This is the situation. In the fall I go on an expedition to the taiga. Let's go by boat. Along the way I will collect interesting specimens of burl and suvel. After returning to the base, all this wealth will be loaded into a container and, with boats and all our personal belongings, will return to Moscow. After cutting it down and before it gets into my garage, at least a month and a half will pass, most likely two months. I will immediately paint over the cut area with oil paint. The question is, do I need to remove the bark? Is it possible to boil it one and a half to two months after cutting?

PS it will mostly be birch

Serjant 08-07-2011 13:32

type it into any search engine.
Natural drying of wood.

OlegNA 08-07-2011 13:35

So he scored. I didn’t find an answer to whether or not to remove the bark. I know that you can’t keep a birch tree in its bark unless you cut it in half. And then I’ll paint over the place where I slept. This is the most exciting question for me.
The topic is just a one-day thing. I ask the moderators to remove it tomorrow

AlexDM 08-07-2011 13:43

It is in the bark and with the cuts covered that the birch suvel has been drying on my balcony for a year now.

AIS1947 08-07-2011 13:44

quote: I know that you can’t keep a birch tree in its bark unless you cut it in half.

OlegNA 08-07-2011 13:48

Who told you this?

AIS1947 08-07-2011 14:28

quote: It seems like it rots in three months

ALAM 08-07-2011 15:13

the main thing is that when you cut it down, don’t bring it into the hut to be warm, it will break right away. Let it lie somewhere in a cool place under a roof, in a barn, or a corridor... and instead of paint, you can use stearin from candles, melt it and soak the cut in hot water in a few steps ...

DECEMBER 08-07-2011 16:03

quote: Originally posted by OlegNA:

Along the way I will collect interesting specimens of burl and suvel.

AIS1947 08-07-2011 16:12

From Moscow to the taiga for birch burls and suvels - “low beam”. There is a lot of this stuff in the Moscow region if you look for it. And the Knife Workshop Flea Market sells regularly.

OlegNA 09-07-2011 14:32

I admit I didn't formulate the question correctly.
“How to deliver burl and suvel to the drying place without cracking. Delivery time 2 months” - this would probably be more correct.
Special thanks to DECEMBER and ALAM. I'll probably remove the bark from half of it, no. I'll cover the cuts. I won’t even take them out of the boat. Let them lie there in the damp. I'll put it in a container and won't cover it.

quote: Originally posted by AIS1947:

From Moscow to the taiga for birch burls and suvels - “low beam”. There is a lot of this stuff in the Moscow region if you look for it.

Alexey S 09-07-2011 14:53

“The main thing is that when you cut it down, don’t bring it into the hut to be warm, it will die right away. Let it lie somewhere in a cool place under a roof, in a barn, or in a corridor.”
- In January I cut down three suvels, welded one right away, and everything was ok with it. And I left the other two in a cold barn for slow natural drying. In the spring I looked - they can be sent for firewood, they are cracked.

What are mouth guards and suveli, how do they differ? How and where to prepare them? How to quickly and efficiently dry out growths at home?

Cap

So, first, let's define some concepts.

Cap(aka " witch's broom") is a benign formation on a tree, which is a bunch of thin branches growing from a teardrop-shaped (most often) growth. When viewed in a cross section, it has a texture with pronounced knot cores. It is difficult to process due to the highly curled texture and a huge number of knots. Extremely beautiful , durable, perfectly sanded and polished.

Numerous individual areas have a pearlescent tint. It has no great industrial significance, but is highly valued because of its beauty. If it is used in industry, it is only in the form of veneer for finishing furniture (burls from exotic tree species are mainly used), as well as for the production of small products such as boxes, cigarette cases, women's hairpins, and small jewelry (birch burls). The use of burl on knife handles is considered good taste and is also valued by wood carvers for its unique texture.

It is impossible to find two identical pieces of burl - even the halves of a sawn burl have a different pattern, the build-up is so heterogeneous. It grows on many trees (linden, alder, birch, maple, oak, etc.), but the most valuable and beautiful is birch (of those growing in our latitudes). The growth is usually small, at most the size of a volleyball or a large plate.

There is no point in cutting out any pattern on the burl, since the texture clogs everything up.

The photo shows a birch burl. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a cut of a birch burl (I took these pictures near my native police station, and, as you understand, they wouldn’t let me cut anything down there... But I contrived and found an ash burl; most of the burls are similar in texture and They differ only in the color and size of the knot cores).

(svil) - as the name implies, the growth was named because of its structure. "Twisted structure"

This is putting it mildly. Suvel is a drop-shaped or spherical growth on a tree (there is also a ring variety that covers the tree trunk around the perimeter), usually grows 2-3 times faster than the tree itself. When cut, it has a texture similar in pattern to marble and mother-of-pearl (this is the main difference from mouth guard; in the future, do not confuse suvel and cap). The presence of mother-of-pearl stains on polished wood creates a beautiful shimmering picture that glows from within. Svil is also poorly processed, like burl, but not as hard. The size varies from the size of a nut to 1.5 meters in height (I myself saw one on a birch tree) and up to 2 meters in diameter (a ring suvel that completely covered the tree trunk).

In the Vatican there is a font much more than a meter in diameter, carved from a single piece of suveli. I myself was once sitting in a chair carved from suveli. It holds fine threads perfectly, but cutting suvel is not recommended. It is better to sand and varnish (impregnate with oil). The product will only benefit from this.

The most valuable is the root or butt fork. The presence of dark veins and clearly defined twisted annual rings. This is a fairytale. BEAUTIFUL, that says it all. Barrel suvel has a finer texture and a more subtle “frosty” pattern. And lighter wood. In terms of strength, butt suvel is slightly superior to trunk suvel due to the structure of the tree trunk. Suvel is durable, beautiful, easy to polish and grind. Well-dried and treated, it begins to “glow” from the inside (with proper impregnation with oils, the wood becomes like amber and even a little transparent). Usually has a color from pale yellow or pinkish-brown to completely ocher-brown. It all depends on the conditions and drying time. The cap has the same colors.

As you can see, suvel is completely different from burl.

- this is a mushroom (not to be confused with the tinder fungus) and we do not need it for our purposes.

Blank

Where to look for growths... Naturally in the forest. BUT! There are no specific places of growth, they grow spontaneously, and the most beautiful growths will be found by the most big-eyed and persistent. This activity is akin to mushroom hunting - who is more and more e gal forest, he got more.

We cut off the growth. We do this with a sharp saw. Otherwise, you will get tired of sawing, and the tree will begin to become shaggy. We do not peel off the bark.

I highlight in red:

1. If the growth is a “trunk” or a cap root, then it is better to refrain from cutting it down - the tree may die. It is advisable to purchase such burls and strands during legal logging, when the tree is doomed anyway.
2. It is advisable to cut down the growths in the dry season, ideally at the end of August, beginning of September, before the sap begins to flow.
3. Don't forget to cover the cut on the wood with oil paint or wax or something similar.

Drying

So how to dry? Using the "steaming" method. I’ll say right away that this method is suitable for small pieces of wood: about half the size of a soccer ball or a small log.

1. We take an unnecessary pan (bucket) and throw a piece of wood there. You need to take an unnecessary pan, since during the cooking process a very tricky broth is formed, which is then very troublesome to wash. It’s better to clean the wood of any tatters of birch bark and other fragile and dangling pieces - they will fall off anyway.

   I consider birch growth as the most accessible and beautiful. The remaining growths are cooked using the same technology. The log is accordingly cleaned of any debris and fragile particles. Pour water. It is convenient to do this with a faceted glass (it contains 250 ml). The water should cover the piece of wood by about a centimeter or two. Naturally, the tree floats up, but let’s press it to the bottom and we’ll see everything. It doesn’t matter what kind of water you pour, cold or hot, it will still boil. You can throw as much wood into a saucepan as you like; the volume of an individual piece of wood is important, not the total volume of wood.

2. We take table salt, whatever you don’t mind. We're not making soup. Add 2 large tablespoons per liter of water.
   with a top of salt. You can do more, as much as you like, it’s okay, it’s impossible to overdo it. The main thing is that the water is sickly salty. You can use clean sea water (precisely clean, otherwise it will smell disgusting of mud). The salt will draw sap from the tree, but will not saturate the tree.
3. We find sawdust of resinous wood. Spruce and pine are the easiest to get. Take a saw and go ahead. We need two powerful handfuls of sawdust (raking the sawdust with both hands). Precisely sawdust, not shavings from a simple hand plane. The shavings will come from an electric planer (you can get them at the nearest sawmill or plan them yourself). I always use them. They are quite small and can usually be obtained in large quantities and easily. The more resin in the sawdust, the better. And the finer the sawdust, the better. Pour into a saucepan. Sawdust will give the suveli a pleasant ocher color. From soft pink-yellow to ocher-brown. And also see O ly will add strength to the wood and reveal texture.
4. When the water boils, reduce the heat and leave it simmering for 6-8 hours, longer if you have the patience. If the saucepan is large, then you don’t have to turn down the flame, let the water boil and bubble. But you need to watch so that the water does not boil away completely. Salt, sawdust, temperature and time will do their job. Add water as needed. During the cooking process, a red “broth” is formed. And scale. It is better to remove scale immediately. It is very difficult to wash off.
5. 6-8 hours passed (depending on the size of the piece of wood). We take out the piece of wood. We rinse under running water to remove sawdust. Water from the pan
   We throw it out as unnecessary, but you can leave it for next time if you have somewhere to store it. But it's easier to pour out the water. We throw the growth
   on the closet, wrapping it in nothing. Let it cool for a day or two.
6. We repeat the cooking and drying process 2-4 times depending on the volume of wood. To speed up the process, you can use a pressure cooker. The time is reduced to 4-6 hours.
7. During the last cooking, you need to quickly peel off the bark while the tree is hot. Although she herself should fall off by this time. Carefully!!! Hot!!! Use gloves!
8. We throw it on the closet for a week or two. The tree is basically already dry, but let the remaining moisture go away. The tree will “get used” to the atmosphere. After final drying, the tree will become like bone, and it can be cut, sawed, polished. There will be no foreign smell. It will smell only of wood.
9. In the process of accelerated drying of wood, you need to remember that small cracks may appear, and therefore you need to give
   allowance for their removal in subsequent processing.
10. I remind you once again that large pieces cannot be dried like this. Cracked. Necessarily. Verified.
11. After the wood has finally gotten used to the atmosphere, we make a product from it. It is advisable to soak the suvel and cap with oil, and if
    If there is a desire, then wax too. The wood will show its texture, “play,” as they say, and all its inner beauty will appear.

If you have any questions or any clarifications about the technology described above, I will answer to the best of my ability.