The propane-butane mixture, which is filled with cylinders for domestic gas stoves, under optimal conditions burns in air with a flame temperature of up to 1200 ° C. It is enough to work with "hard" (medium-melting) solders: copper-zinc (brass), silver. But in order to get such a flame, the burner must ensure good mixing of gas with air, that is, their supply in a strictly defined ratio - no more and no less! For the convenience of working with small parts, the torch should be thin, but at the same time stable and hot enough.

The gas pressure in the cylinder is 16 atm., For such a case it is too high, so it is necessary to limit the pressure supplied to the burner to 1.5-3 atm., Using a welding reducer or a valve from the ski tarring kit. In this case, the nozzle jet should have a diameter not more than 0.1 mm. To protect it from accidental clogging at the outlet of the cylinder, a filter element is required, for example, a ceramic one - from a fine fuel filter for the ZIL-130 engine, or a home-made one - from a small ceramic grinding head.

Since the burning rate of the gas-air mixture is relatively low, with a rapid outflow from the jet, the mixture may not have time to ignite - the flame will break off and the burner will go out. gas ignition "crown".

All this was realized in a simple, easy-to-replicate design. The burner consists of only five parts: a handle, a supply pipe, a body, a nozzle and a divider.

The wooden handle was used from a blown soldering iron.

The inlet steel tube has an outer diameter of 10 mm and a wall thickness of 2 mm. At one end, three conical belts are machined for tight connection of the hose, and at the other, an M10 thread is cut. Slightly bending the tube on this side, inserted it into the hole in the handle and fixed it there with glue.

Fig.1 Gas burner for flame soldering:

1 - gas supply pipe with a diameter of 10x2 (steel); 2 - handle (wood); 3 - nozzle (steel); 4 - body (brass); 5 - brass divider)

The body and divider are machined from a brass bar with a diameter of 20 mm. Two radial holes with a diameter of 5 mm are carefully drilled in the case - for air supply. Four radial holes with a diameter of 1 mm in the splitter rod provide gas supply to the group of pilot holes in the front flange of this part.

During assembly, the divider was pressed into the body with a slight interference fit. The inner flange of the divider, on the contrary, was installed in the body with a guaranteed clearance: its diameter was machined 0.6 mm less than the inner diameter of the body. This gap is necessary for throttling (braking) the gas flow supplied to the igniter holes.

The nozzle blank is machined from a steel bar. And its thin hole was made as follows. A blind central hole was made with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm, not reaching the exit of 1.5 mm, and the jumper was drilled with a drill with a diameter of 0.4-0.5 mm. Then, with light blows of a hammer, this hole was completely minted. Further, gradually undermining the end with a file or sanding paper, we found a section where the outlet had the required size. This is how the place was defined. Screw the nozzle onto the threaded tip of the burner tube. We put the inlet rubber-fabric hose from the cylinder reducer on the shank of the supply tube and secured it with a clamp. Having set the working pressure, gas was supplied and, after waiting for it to displace air from the hose, the nozzle (without the body and divider) was introduced into the flame of the gas burner. By grinding the end, we achieved a length of the burner torch of 5-6 cm.

The flame of the burner should be even, without soot. Otherwise, regulate the amount of ejected air by turning the housing on the nozzle thread. If the threaded connection is very loose, it is sealed with FUM tape.

The soldering torch is designed to connect metal parts using liquid metal. Soldering can be carried out with two types of solders: fusible, which are hard solders and refractory, which are hard.

For soldering with low-melting metals, various types of soldering irons are used. Working with refractory solders requires the creation of a high temperature, which allows you to get a soldering torch. There are several different types of this device. All of them operate on various types of fuel, allowing to obtain high temperatures. The most common are soldering torches that run on gas and a gasoline-air mixture.

The principle of operation of the gas burner

The ejection-type gas burner is designed for high-temperature soldering. Its operation is carried out from a gas cylinder containing liquefied gas. This type of burners is quite economical, which affects the cost of brazing metal parts. The design of the burner allows you to adjust the volume of gas passing through the ejector.

The principle of operation of a gas burner designed for soldering work is quite simple. From a reducer located near a cylinder containing a liquefied propane-butane mixture, gas flows through a hose to an inlet fitting, which is built into the base of the device. Further, through a vertical channel, the gas moves to the central jet, which has a needle to regulate the fuel flow. The needle makes it possible to regulate the volume of incoming gas.

The needle is controlled by a special holder mounted on the body of the flame shaping device. The incoming gas passes through the jet at high speed and is ejected from its orifice. By increasing the speed of the outflow of the gas flow, the air required for combustion is sucked in by means of a special device - an air spool.

After passing the jet, the gas moves through a special channel to the divider, by which it is divided into main and auxiliary. The main stream is central. The auxiliary flow supplies power to the peripheral holes in the splitter. Auxiliary flow is required to maintain the temperature of the flame in the soldering area.

With the help of a special sleeve of the spool, which can be rotated, it is easy to dose the volumes of air oxygen consumed, and the volume of gas is regulated by a needle. The ability to adjust the gas mixture allows you to get a flame of different quality and size.

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Gas burner device

The composition of the design of a gas burner for welding with refractory solders includes the following structural elements:

• needle for adjusting gas flow;
• handle for adjusting the position of the needle;
• gas jet housing cover;
• gas jet body;
• ejector;
• spool sleeve;
• spool holder;
• radiator;
• gas mixture divider;
• lever;
• fitting for gas supply.

All structural elements of the device can be made using a metal lathe. The best material in the manufacture of structural elements of the device is brass and bronze. These alloys have excellent thermal conductivity and have a sufficiently high strength, in addition, these alloys are not afraid of corrosion processes. The body of the gas jet, its cover and jet are made of any steel grade. The adjusting needle is made of steel, most often from knitting needles of the appropriate diameter. The sealing gland is made by turning from a PTFE blank.

With the appropriate turning skills, structural elements for the device can be made by hand quite simply. In the manufacture of a jet for a burner, it is required to achieve an outlet size of 0.1 mm.

The welding torch assembly sequence is as follows. The jet is installed in the body, the installation socket is lubricated with epoxy. A seal is mounted on the opposite side of the housing, and the housing is closed with a special cover with a needle installed in it for adjustment. The jet in the housing is installed in the base of the structure and secured with a special nut. At the last stage, an ejector, a spool and a radiator with a divider are installed on the body. Soldering burners that are correctly assembled give a blue flame with a flame length of about 200 mm during operation.

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Gasoline burner device

The gasoline torch for soldering and welding is intended for the formation of a gasoline-air mixture and for soldering metal parts.

The advantages of gasoline torches for welding are:

• device portability;
• small weight of the device;
• ease of use;
• quality soldering.

The composition of this device includes the following structural parts:

• fuel tank;
• air compressor;
• petrol resistant hoses;
• burner.

The burner itself, designed for carrying out and running on gasoline, consists of a small number of elements. The main ones are:

• body of the device;
• metal sleeve with a hook;
• a tube;
• emphasis;
• heap;
• sealing rubber ring;
• airflow adjustment ball;
• filler.

The burner can be easily made by hand. It does not require any special skills to work with metal.

In this article, we will look at how a do-it-yourself gas burner for soldering is made. This device is often in demand both in the private sector and for commercial purposes - for individual technical creativity and various construction tasks. In particular, with the help of gas burners soldering, plumbing and blacksmithing, roofing, jewelry work is carried out, and a flame whose temperature exceeds 1500 ° C is also obtained for other purposes.

In plumbing, using a gas burner, you can heat a metal blank so that in the end it turns out to be sufficiently hardened. When carrying out welding work with some metals, the places of future seams must be warmed up.

Parameters for making a soldering torch

Below is a typical diagram and principle of operation of an injection gas burner:

The design is different in that when the tab is moved in the nozzle, it is possible to adjust the suction of air through the ventilation holes - and as a result, adjust the temperature of the fire in a wide range.

Making a gas burner from scrap materials: step by step

How to make a nozzle and a handle

Important! To make it more convenient to work, we bend the brass tube above the handle at an angle of 45˚.

With a drill, you can make a slightly larger hole, and then adjust the edges to 0.1 mm. The hole must have the correct shape so that the flame is even.

After that, we fix the workpiece in a vise, take a hammer and carefully, in a vertical plane with a “branch” to the middle of the workpiece, strike the future nozzle. We evenly scroll the product to form an ideal hole.

Then we take sandpaper with fine grit and skin the nozzle head. To connect to the tube, a thread is applied to the back of the product, and the elements can also be simply soldered - but in the future the repair of parts will be more difficult.

Now we attach the device to the gas cylinder and set it on fire - the do-it-yourself burner is ready to go. However, here you can see that to adjust the gas flow, you can only open and close the valve of the gas cylinder, and in this way it is very difficult to obtain the desired flame. What we can do?

How to improve flame control

The divider is installed on a pipe with a nozzle, it is made of brass, diameter 15 mm. The best option is a cylindrical part, where there is a hole for a tube with a nozzle.
If it doesn't exist, do this:
1. We take a brass pipe with a diameter of 35 mm and cut off a piece of 100–150 mm.
2. We take a marker, step back from the end and mark 3-5 points, with an equal distance between them.
3. We drill holes of 8–10 mm in the pipe, take a grinder and make cuts evenly to them.
4. We bend everything to the center and weld it to the burner pipe.

Do-it-yourself burner: video

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Burnerking

or the saga of the burners. Part 1

Recently, our vocabulary has been enriched with new terms from various areas of public life (petting, pehting, etc.) In order to keep up with fashion and the progressive public, I called my opus" Burnerking or the saga of burners (homemade)" .
I have long had a warm (sometimes even hot) relationship with burners. Therefore, I share information with a special feeling.
It should be noted right away that we are talking about gas, propane burners. And it is injection ones, because the oxidizer (air) is sucked into them by itself with the help of a jet of combustible gas (not to be confused with explosive gas) directed to the burner outlet. Sometimes, however, air gravity is not enough, and to increase the combustion temperature of the mixture, air is pumped by a blower. But in any case, the air is not used from a cylinder, but simply atmospheric. Therefore, only one tube with gas is suitable for this type of burner, namely from a propane cylinder.Because in order to choose the right burner for your purposes,it’s not enough just to show a photo and write something, I had to record video clips. They give a clearer picture of the operation of these devices.

mini burner

This torch was originally created for soldering filigree with very small parts, so the main focus is on reducing the diameter of the flame tongue. At that time, when this burner was made, small burners with a gas cartridge in the form of a burner handle were not yet sold. Therefore, the universal medium burner (description below) is taken as the basis and all dimensions are proportionally reduced.

Soldering small parts. Sometimes there are not enough hands to add solder and hold filigree elements :) A feature of this burner is the use of a divider. This achieves flame stability over the entire pressure range (within reasonable limits, of course), namely from 0.2 to 3 kg/cm2. The amount of air is not adjustable. It is matched with the diameter of the suction holes. If, nevertheless, you feel the urge to regulate the enrichment of the mixture, place a piece of silicone tube inside the knurled ring and, by rotating the ring, you can adjust it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is about 0.12 mm.

One of the ways to manufacture the nozzle is shown. The capillary is soldered to a screw screwed into the tube. Screw on FUM. We observe alignment. It is possible without a capillary by drilling an M3 brass screw on the machine.
And what really needs to be adjusted here is the position of the tube with the nozzle. After igniting the burner, we move the tube back and forth and, having found the optimal position, fix it with a screw.

This torch is the most versatile torch for brazing small to medium sized jewelry. (Of course, if you do not need both hands to be free :) But the adjustment can be done with the same hand that holds the burner.
It also contains a divider and therefore will never go out on its own at any normal propane pressure.
Adjusting the flame with the same hand. The silicone tube protects the place where it is hung on the hook. Ebonite handle. When properly adjusted, the burner produces a narrow, long flame.

A heat-insulating sleeve is made around the burner head. Its use allows you to warm up the head, this can slightly increase the temperature of the flame. It is made of asbestos fiber with the addition of kaolin and liquid glass.
The object to be soldered must be in the flame recovery zone. You can check this by putting a piece of copper wire into the flame. In the reduction zone, the metal surface becomes shiny.

The nozzle on this burner is made in the same way as on the previous one. The matched nozzle hole diameter is 0.16 mm.
The amount of air can also be adjusted by placing a piece of silicone tube of the appropriate diameter inside the ring. But with the dimensions as in my drawing, the mixture is already quite balanced.

Medium straight burner

As you can see, I didn’t really care about the names of the burners, because the headings must be different. You have to call them something.
The next burner differs from the previous ones in the geometry of the location of the components, and the principles of operation are the same.

This burner has a softer flame, so it is better to use it for heating something (annealing wire, patination) or where the previous one cannot reach. It has the same splitter as the previous burners. And peculiarly made air suction.

There is no drawing for this burner, because the main parameters are the same as the previous burner. The head and divider, as well as the diameter of the duct, are the same. And, most importantly, the nozzle diameter is the same.

Large hand burner

This burner is similar to previous hand burners. All parameters are the same, only the power is increased. This burner can solder not only filigree, but also copper tubes of refrigerators.

The only standard component in this burner is the gas cock. But not a checkpoint, as in previous cases, but a corner one. Everything is attached to it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is 0.23 mm.

Addition 1

Today I received another letter with a request to explain where to get capillaries and how to make a nozzle in general. It was even proposed to use electroerosion. I didn't even think it would be a problem.
So, this is how I do it. First of all, I got used to using M3 screws for injectors (a regular screw with a 3 mm diameter thread, metric).
So, take your box of M3 screws, dump it out and spread it out in an even layer. Then take the magnet and pull out all the attracting screws. You end up with screws that don't attract. The fact that they look the same as the rest should not deceive you. These are galvanized brass screws. Pictured under number 1.
If there is no M3 brass, nothing prevents you from doing this with M4.

Here are five ways for you:
- immediately drill a hole with the required drill diameter. But this is for fairly large holes and with a precision drill.
- drill on both sides of the screw with a large drill, but not completely. Then pierce this jumper with a needle or drill with a small drill.
- drill with a large drill and then fill the hole with POS solder, and then work with it, which is much easier.
- drill with a large drill, and then solder a stainless wire of the appropriate diameter coaxially into the screw with POS solder. And then pull out the wire.
And, finally, you can solder the POS with a low-melting solder into a drilled hole in a capillary of the appropriate diameter.
So, capillaries, that is, thin tubes.
Under number 2 are capillaries from instrument recorders. It is unlikely that you feel better from such advice.
But under the number 3 is the most realistic option. When the doctor gives you an injection, do not groan, do not feel sorry for yourself, but gather your will into a fist and ask the doctor to give you a needle as a keepsake. He will give, he does not mind. Thus, for your sick life and your loved ones, you will collect an extensive collection of capillaries. And if you are lucky enough to make injections with imported syringes, then the assortment will become much richer. They also have very thin needles, for example, for vaccinations.
Do not forget to also collect a collection of steel elastic wires for cleaning capillaries - number 4.
Number 5 - my new gas stove came with a whole set of nozzles with different hole diameters.
And finally, 6-terminal clamps for the installation of stranded electrical wires. A whole bunch of different sizes.

Supplement 2

Sometimes workers complain that the burner does not work or works somehow wrong. Only working designs are laid out here, there are no theoretical ones. It means that they did not see or did not understand the principle of operation of the burners. Now I will try to explain using the example of a mini-burner. To do this, I will give a simplified diagram of this particular design.

1. Ensure that the supply gas pressure is within the acceptable range of 0.2-4 kg/cm2. And the most working range is from 0.5 to 2.5 kg / cm2. And the nozzle hole diameter is 0.12 +/-0.02 mm.
2. The air intake holes are not closed.
3. In the picture. The diameter of the tube with the supplied gas-air mixture is 3.5 mm. And the central hole in the divider with a diameter of 3 mm. That is, 0.5 mm less. Therefore, part of the flow of the gas-air mixture diverges to the sides into small holes. The flow velocity through these holes is less than the main flow. These small holes are just designed to ignite the main stream. And because of the low speed of the gas-air mixture, they burn stably through them and do not allow the flame of the main stream to be blown off. This is true for all burners of this type, as shown on this page, with flame spreaders.
4. Based on the above, check if there is a gap of 2 mm between both parts of the burner head. With proper manufacture according to the drawings, this gap will be. Otherwise, you will observe only the central torch, without side lights, which is easily blown away when the pressure of the gas entering the nozzle increases.

On the left is a broken burner. On the right, as it should be.
5. And a few words about the position of the nozzle. The section of the capillary from which the gas comes out, you need to choose its position already with the burner running in the area opposite the air intake holes, or up to these holes. And, of course, the tube with the capillary should not block the air holes.

Hello everyone, today we will make a Bunsen gas burner from improvised means! It will not be just a stationary burner, but a burner that, if necessary, you can safely hold in your hands and not be afraid to get burned. It will not be difficult to make it, all the materials used must be at hand, and its scope is quite wide.

In order not to keep the burner constantly in his hands, the author decided to make a stand for it. To do this, you need to make two loops of wire on the burner. Loops need to be done by eye, something like in the photo below. Be careful when soldering them, as all connections can simply fall apart from overheating!

Now you need to make a tripod for the burner. To do this, the author took a piece of thick plywood and drilled a hole from the edge with a thin drill. In this hole he inserted a piece of thick copper wire. The burner is mounted on a tripod with the help of soldered loops, it does not fall off it and keeps well enough.