Thermopot boils water for a long time. The water supply button on the thermopot does not work - what to do? Quick thermopot repair: frequent breakdowns

Dmitry Ivanov: Hello. There is such a problem. Thermopot After it was filled with water TO THE LEVEL and turned on, it boiled. And then every 40-50 minutes it starts to boil again. What can be???

first second: And how many volts of the motor

Vyacheslav Kablaev: Liked the video very much! Everything is simple and voluminous. And so it is clearer even to me stupid. Thank you! My + and subscription!

Aidar Khuzin: hello weak pressure what can i do? Flushing did not help

Gray Fox: Hello, I have such a problem, the heating coil burned out, I took it apart somewhere, removed a couple of turns, twisted it, it worked, but ... after boiling, the heating turns on and the lock immediately lights up and does not allow pouring water, what is the reason?

Otto Dietrich: I press the Block button, then pour water. The pump twitches, the button unit turns off. What could be

Urzhum: Obviously, the bottom of the thermopot from the hostess scooped up water in the sink. Turned it on and didn't wait for the water to dry. As a result, the short circuit and failure of the transistor. The instructions must be read at least once from cover to cover, there is a warning about what to avoid. Many have not a single breakdown even after 7 years of operation. The coating peels off over time - because cold water is poured into the hot bowl of the apparatus. There is zero attention to this, the mesh filter delays delamination, it must be monitored and removed from the mesh.

Nader Ibeidou: Very helpful video…..thank you very much

Tanks are not afraid of dirt.: Hello. I have a Chinese thermopot from METRO-Cash&Carry, no name, some for sales only in the Metro. At 4.2 liters with an electric pump. Recently, after filling the mug with boiling water, the boiling heater began to turn on for a few seconds. What could be? Faced with such a defect?

Sergey: I've got a scheme. I came up with a new one and made it https://files.icq.net/get/0ZZySij86dZ3S5mqoqfPum59f431b71ab

Vakha Patiyev: hello, I have the same problem, can it be solved what do you think? i.e. it boils but does not supply water, please look and if you can answer [email protected] something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkpIl6GvEyQ

Damir Akhmetov: Hello Oleg, tell me. The thermopod is a new Chinese-made model "Tiffany", it has a "water supply" button. But there is no "reconnection" at all. ??

MoOvik: By the way, while doing this, I changed the diodes from 1000V to 400V, the rest of the specifications are the same, what are the consequences?

MoOvik: but I didn’t have a tester nearby, I looked at how you check the motor and it started up and now I have a 12V power supply from the kettle))

Sony Bravia:!!! I have a similar Panasonic NC-EM40P thermopot, it stopped boiling water, it only works in heating mode. I rang the contacts of the heating element at 3:30, yellow - orange are ringing and yellow - red is not. I tried to find it in the workshops, but nowhere is there anything at all, probably the heating elements are not supplied, now I'm racking my brains on what to do, it's a pity to throw it away. Can you tell me something?..

Mohd Rizal kamal: Hi there, can someone speak in english.. i would like to know how did you test the dynamo(pump)? … are u using battery or using electric?

Sony Bravia:!!! 5:12 mine also peeled off the inner coating, and now the heating element burned out, I don’t know where to get it ... (((

Peter Starygin: Hi, please tell me, heats boils and does not turn off

Andrey Malinovsky: What is the operating voltage of the pump motor

Kirill Stadnik: On the contrary, it shakes me without interruption - what do you advise?

How to repair a thermopot with your own hands

Surely, many in the kitchen you can find not a simple electric kettle, but a thermos or the so-called "thermal pot".

Advantages and disadvantages

In addition, a thermopot can save not only your time (you do not need to wait for the water to heat up), but also electricity (you do not need to turn on an electrical appliance every time someone in the household wants to drink hot tea or brew porridge or other food).

• A large amount of liquid, four to five liters, boil more time than in an electric kettle;

Causes of failure

From this video, you will learn what causes of breakage exist in thermopots. Recommended for viewing!

Vitek thermopot board

Repair of various parts of the thermopot

• Network cord. To carry out the repair of the power cord, it is necessary to unscrew several screws to which the body of the thermopot is attached. Inside there is a special block, and visually inspect all internal parts. Carefully separate the cord and check it with a tester, if it is faulty, we replace it;

Repair of heating elements

What are the features of the Karcher vertical clothes steamer, this article will tell. do not miss your chance to get acquainted with useful material!

Based on materials from the site: http://tehnosektor.ru

Do-it-yourself thermopot repair does not pump the pump.

How to repair a thermopot with your own hands.

Today, in many areas of human activity, various technological devices occupy a priority place.

The field of cooking also has many technological innovations to make our lives easier.

Surely, many in the kitchen you can find not a simple electric kettle, but a thermos or the so-called “thermal pot”.

This word came from English and literally means a temperature pot or thermos.

Advantages and disadvantages.

The main advantage of a thermo pot over an electric kettle is that you can not only boil water in it, but also store it, keeping it at a high temperature, like in a thermos.

You can set the temperature yourself.

Most models are equipped with four water heating modes.

It is able to maintain the temperature you need for several hours.

The water remains hot, as if it had just boiled, but if you need, you can choose a lower setting.

By purchasing a thermo pot, there will always be water with the required temperature, for example, for making a cup of tea or preparing baby food for a child.

In addition, a thermopot can save not only your time (you do not need to wait for the water to heat up), but also electricity (you do not need to turn on an electrical appliance every time someone in the household wants to drink hot tea or brew porridge or other food.

A large amount of liquid, four to five liters, boil more time than in an electric kettle.

Its cost is several times more than a simple electric kettle.

Causes of breakdown.

From this video, you will learn what causes of breakage exist in thermopots. Recommended for viewing.

Despite the fact that such a device has an excellent and durable design, they break down quite often due to the poor quality of their electrical components.

Since the cost of a new, such a kettle is not small, in many cases it is best to repair it yourself or by contacting the master and not overpay a significant amount of money to buy a new kettle.

The main reasons why a thermopot can fail, as well as methods for their elimination.

Lack of indication of the special control panel of the thermopot does not turn on.

It is necessary to check the integrity of all wires, as well as check the operation of the thermal fuse and the safety switch.

The thermo pot reboil button does not execute the command and does not boil water when it is first turned on, as well as when water is poured into it. It is necessary to check the operation of the thermal switch located at the bottom of the tank.

Lack of operation of the device, in all modes.

With this problem, the electrical circuit for forced boiling failed to actually break such parts as a relay with a transistor or a rectifier.

Failure of the water supply lever. Most likely, the engine for supplying water or the rectifier diodes on the engine power circuit are not working.

This is a list of the main thermopot malfunctions that have a similar design.

Vitek thermopot board.

Repair of various parts of the thermopot.

Network cord. To carry out the repair of the power cord, it is necessary to unscrew several screws to which the body of the thermopot is attached. Inside there is a special block, and visually inspect all internal parts. Carefully separate the cord and check it with a tester, if it is faulty, we replace it.

Chip. An ordinary thermopot has two microcircuits: a power supply and a control one. We inspect them visually in order to determine swollen capacitors, burnt transistors, broken fuses, and other breakdowns. In order to replace elements that are out of order, it is necessary to use soldering; it does not restore contacts in the presentation methods. Initially, when repairing a microcircuit, you need to check whether all the fuses are in place and whether they are intact. consists in its electronic stuffing. Because it has a short circuit.

Capacitor. Much easier to deal with a broken capacitor. Since they swell and are easily determined by appearance. Diodes. It is much more difficult to determine the breakdown of diodes, I am glad that they break quite rarely. It is necessary to sample the element and ring its sides in order to understand whether it is in working condition.

Board tracks. In order to bring the broken tracks on the board into working condition, they are lightly sanded to make the top layer of varnish out of them. The shiny surface is aligned and covered with a layer of solder.

Water pump. Also, each device contains a special pump for supplying water, both automatically and manually. For a Vitek thermopot, a new pump costs about $ 30. An experienced electrician can easily determine which part has failed. It is also necessary to check the thermopot pump for suitability.

Repair of heating elements.

If the heating elements break, in almost all cases they must be replaced.

New heating elements start at $40.

The standard device contains several thermal switches.

One is assigned to control water parameters, and the second serves to protect against turning on the thermopot in the absence of water in it.

The thermal switch works in such a way that the surface of the tank and the flange are in contact.

To improve contact, a special lubricant is used, similar to that used in personal computers.

When a certain temperature of the switch is reached, its contacts close, as soon as the temperature decreases, their conductivity is restored.

These thermopot components can be easily found, as their description is made on the body and marked accordingly.

What are the features of the Karcher vertical clothes steamer, this article will tell. do not miss your chance to get acquainted with useful material.

Here. you will be able to find the description of portable gas tent heater.

But more often than not, the manufacturer also adds an additional temperature fuse, which is a small cylindrical piece that fits snugly against the wall on the bike.

Works exactly the same as a conventional thermal switch.

In order to check the operation of a metal contact, it is necessary to make a dial-up book, having previously completed the working contacts from the thermopot, they will be short-circuited.

Repair tips.

The internal stuffing of most thermopots is slightly different from each other.

And the simplest models are easy to self-repair.

Repair of Vitek thermopot can be carried out according to standard schemes.

To carry out the repair of this device, on your own, you need to soberly assess your knowledge and experience.

And do not try to solder microchips that require a hot air gun with an inappropriate soldering iron.

To begin with, you need to know the basic techniques for working with electrical components, which often do not tolerate static electricity and high temperatures.

In order to make repairs, you will need tweezers, a tester, a screwdriver with a voltage indicator, as well as a soldering iron and other tools.

How to repair a thermopot with your own hands.

All thermoses-heaters have a similar device and principle of operation, differing only in additional functions, as well as in the material of manufacture. The working parts of the thermopot are enclosed in a case, and in order to repair the thermopot, it will have to be removed. Water is poured into a stainless steel tank, in the bottom of which two heating elements are built. One of them produces the main heating to the state of boiling water, and the second only heats the water. There is also a general conclusion. Each wire is covered with ceramic protection - "beads". This prevents the wires from coming into contact with the metal container.

On the side you can see a cylindrical object. This is a thermopot engine (water pump) designed to supply water. In different models, the voltage drop across the motor ranges from 8 to 24 volts.

It is impossible not to notice the electronic board on which the circuit (time relay) is mounted, which is responsible for re-boiling. Also, the circuit is needed to convert the voltage for the pump and relay. You can solder the broken contacts on the circuit with your own hands, repairing them in this way.

In addition to the main board, the thermopot has a control board. With its help, the buttons for water supply, reheating work, and red and LED indicators are connected to it, indicating what mode the thermopot is in.

Of great importance in all heating devices is a thermal switch. It is installed in the bottom and on the side of the water tank. In case the thermal switch does not work, a thermal fuse is also provided. This allows you to prevent overheating and damage to the thermal pot if it is turned on empty.

Knowing the location of all the main parts of the thermopot, it is much easier to identify the problem and make repairs.

It is even better to study the diagram in order to understand what is connected how, and what details can be changed. In some cases, repairs do not make sense, and even specialists do not undertake it.

We disassemble the thermopot.

It is immediately worth noting that it is easiest to remove the upper part of the thermos-heater with your own hands. To disassemble the thermopot, it is necessary to find and unscrew the screws located at the bottom of the device. After that, the case can be easily removed. First you need to visually inspect the board. It happens that a crack is found on the soldering, and the soldered element disappears. In this case, you should use a soldering iron to fix everything as it was.

Be sure to inspect the thermal switch located in the bottom. Its condition is checked with an ohmmeter.

Do-it-yourself thermopot repair

The working device has almost zero resistance. A defective part must be replaced with a new one. And then the question becomes, where to buy the necessary spare parts. Often this can be done only through online stores.

To remove the pump in case of a malfunction, it is necessary to disconnect the inlet pipe from it and unscrew the bolts. Sometimes cleaning the impeller and magnet with a regular cloth gives its results. In some cases, repairs will no longer help, and you will have to resort to replacing the thermopot.

How to fix some crashes.

We will analyze what malfunctions a thermopot can have, and how to fix them with your own hands.

The indicator panel does not turn on and the appliance does not work at all. In this case, check all wires, all connections, as well as the fuse and thermal regulator. If there are several reasons, then the repair will be more difficult to perform.

Only the reboil button works. The main first boil is not carried out. In this case, check the thermal switch located in the bottom.

The first boiling works, and when boiling again, the thermopot does not turn on. You should inspect the circuit on the main board.

Water can only be heated, the thermopot does not boil. Most likely, the heating element burned out or the contact broke.

The water supply function has stopped working. There is a problem with the pump power circuit. Quite often, the additional heating coil also burns out, after which the voltage stops being supplied to the motor.

If the spirals of the heating elements are burned out, then it is not economically feasible to repair the thermopot. Firstly, it is difficult to disassemble the tank, and secondly, the cost of insulation and high-resistance wires is quite high.

When the repair is completed, it is necessary to check the electrical safety of the device. To do this, it is necessary to measure the resistance between the plug contacts and the tank, as well as between the plug contacts and the outer casing. The resistance must be infinite.

Why is the water supply in the thermopot not working.

All home appliances are created in order to provide comfort to the user. As we get used to easy exploitation, we get frustrated when a feature doesn't work. Quite often, the pump does not work at the thermopot. As a result, water enters the cup manually. It seems that in general the equipment works, but a small breakdown makes it difficult to use the device. Today we will understand why the water supply in the thermopot does not work.

What to do if the pump does not pump.

Work begins with the dismantling of the bottom cover of the device. Usually it is mounted on several bolts that need to be removed. Then you should disassemble the pump, it will be more convenient to do this if you remove the inlet pipe. Next, you need to check the condition of the connecting tubes. Namely, whether they are clogged with scale. If necessary, remove and clean them.

The next step is to remove the magnet from the engine. All parts must be thoroughly cleaned from scale and debris. This is best done with a napkin or cloth. When disassembling the pump and engine, do not forget to keep the gaskets intact. They will come in handy when assembling the device.

After such simple actions, the thermopot must again supply water. If the problem persists, you will most likely need to replace parts.

The pump does not work and the temperature is not maintained.

If the breakdown is complex, then look for the cause of the malfunction in the heating element. Most often this indicates overheating of the heating element. In this case, work begins with the dismantling of the top cover. Next, we perform the following steps.

Turn the thermopot over and remove the support ring. To do this, you will need a screwdriver and a little effort.

3. Under the lid, all the insides of the thermopot are hidden. We need to remove the upper part of the equipment case.

5. The next step is to remove the heating element. It is important to proceed carefully here. The contacts can be released with a socket wrench, and with a Phillips screwdriver - with a heating element coupler.

6. It remains only to ring the heating element, replace it and make sure it works.

Be careful when replacing the heating element. Their size may vary depending on the model. For example, there are heating elements 150 or 160 mm. Therefore, before buying, you should clarify what size you need for your thermopot.

Questions and answers.

The thermopot, or thermo pot, is gaining immense popularity. However, its cost is quite high, therefore, in order to save money, you can fix some problems yourself. It often happens that the thermopot heats the water, but does not boil it.

Causes of failure of thermopots.

Before starting the search for the causes of the breakdown of the thermal kettle, you need to know what kind of object it is. Thermopot is an electric kettle that includes the function of a thermos, consisting of two cases. The outer one is usually made of plastic, while the inner one is made of metal. In the inner case there is a flask for water. The kettle is closed with a lid, on which the entire control panel is located.

To fix any broken thermopot, the first step is to check that the settings are correct. In the settings menu, you need to set exactly the temperature of the water heating that is needed. If everything is in order with the heating settings, then the causes of the breakdown can be:

• thermal switch located on the bottom of the kettle;
• thermal fuse located on the wall of the thermal pot;
• insufficient contact of any part connectors;
• malfunction of the electronic board;
• the indicator panel has stopped turning off. There are cases when, on the contrary, the indicator panel turns on, but the thermopot does not start. If this is the cause of a breakdown, then it is worth checking all its components, wiring and thermal fuse.
• the kettle stopped working. To eliminate this malfunction, it is necessary to check the correct operation of the electrical circuit and temperature switches.

In order to more accurately identify the cause of the breakdown of the gadget, you will have to disassemble it.

How to properly disassemble the thermopot

1. The first step is to remove the top cover, as it will interfere. The next thing to do is turn the machine upside down and use something flat and sharp to remove the snap ring, such as a screwdriver or knife. To do this action, it is worth applying some physical force.
2. A few screws will appear under the snap ring, they are easily unscrewed with a curly screwdriver.
3. The next step is to remove the bottom of the kettle with a knife or a flat screwdriver, which requires little effort, because the bottom is fixed with latches.

After that, the entire electronic filling is in front of your eyes. Now you need to check all the terminals for the strength of the connection.

Important! In order to properly disassemble the thermopot, you must have at least a little knowledge in electrics!

There are minor damage to the kettle. In such cases it is possible.

Reasons why the thermopot does not boil water

Breakdown of the thermal switch

Thermoswitches are located on the walls or bottom of the thermo pot. This part is attached to the main body with bolts, from which contact wires extend. In order to maintain heat transfer inside the vessel, the attachment points of the thermal switches are smeared with a special white compound. In order to remove it, you just need to disconnect the contact of the thermal switch and pull it out. In rest position, the switch will be on. You can check its serviceability using a special tester (its readings should be equal to 0). It is necessary to fasten two wires to the thermal switch and lower it into boiling water. At this time, its resistance should increase, and the tester should show an infinite number - such readings indicate the health of the part. If the tester readings have not moved, then you need to replace the thermal switch with a similar one.

Important! Before purchasing a thermal switch, consult an electrical engineer or a shop assistant.

If, then you should pay attention to the thermal switches. You will most likely need to replace one of them.

Malfunction of two spirals

Any thermo pot has two heating coils, each of which performs its own function. The first is designed to boil water, and the second performs constant heating of the contents of this unit.

If the breakdown of the thermopot occurred due to a malfunction of the heating coils, then it makes no sense to repair it. This event will take a lot of time and family budget. With a huge number of shortcomings, it is better to buy a new kettle, because replacing all the wires and the tank at the same time will cost a lot of money.

Important! Regardless of the manufacturer and volume, each thermo pot is equipped with several heating modes, with the help of which any person can set the optimal temperature for heating water.

But experts advise purchasing thermopots with no more than three heating modes, since this is quite enough for optimal use of the device. The cheapest models of thermos kettles have one water heating mode. This feature should be considered when buying a thermal kettle.

Why is the thermopot not heating the water?

The main problem of any thermopot is heating the water. Often the reasons are any short circuits in the circuit, which includes the heating element. Short circuits can occur in the heating element itself, relays and fuses. The easiest way to find out is to “ring out” each element, as well as all wiring, with a multimeter. Using this method, you can easily find out which part needs to be replaced or repaired.

Thermal fuse failure

So what role does the thermal fuse play in the operation of an electric kettle? This spare part is one of the most necessary in the device device. It protects the device from burning. If at least one of the fuses stops functioning, then the water stops heating.

Usually these parts are attached to the side walls of the thermopot. But in some models, they can be installed on the bottom, and their appearance resembles small cylinders. They start working when the temperature of the water reaches the boiling point. Their role is to turn off the device if there is not enough water in it. If the thermal fuses start to work before the water boils, then this can lead to overheating of the thermopot, and it will not boil, but simply heat the water. To check the serviceability of this device, it must be placed in boiling water. And if it turns on before it boils, it will mean that it is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Repair of thermal fuses.

It is necessary to check all the main components of the apparatus with a multimeter. Testing the thermostat. To do this, the tester must be set to a mode that allows you to measure resistance.

The multimeter shows the complete absence of resistance, which means that the main reason why the thermopot does not heat the water is precisely it. And this means that the sensor must be replaced with a new one. To replace it, you need a curly screwdriver. With its help, it is necessary to unscrew the bolts that secure the sensor and replace it with a working one.

Important! It should be remembered that the constant temperature of the thermal fuse, which is in working condition, is about 90 0 C.

If after changing the thermal relay in the normal mode, then the efforts were not in vain and the repair was done successfully.

Among all kinds of household appliances, many will find an electric kettle, and not an ordinary one, but a thermos kettle. In other words, thermopot.

Despite the rather solid design of these “miracle kettles”, they also fail due to a malfunction of electrical components.

Since the cost of a new thermos kettle is quite high (3-5 times higher than the cost of a conventional electric kettle), in many cases self-repair of the thermopot is not only justified, but also necessary.

Consider the design, typical malfunctions of thermo pots and methods for their elimination using the example of repairing a kettle - a thermos brand Elenberg TH-6012.

Dismantling of a teapot - a thermos.

The body of the thermopot can be easily disassembled. The rigidity of the structure is given by two bolts or self-tapping screws, with which the lower plastic part is screwed. The bolts can be hidden under a round plastic stand, thanks to which the thermal pot can be rotated in a horizontal direction. By unscrewing both bolts and removing the plastic bottom of the thermos kettle, you can access the electrical part. For the convenience of diagnostics, you can remove the outer metal casing, having previously disconnected the ground wire from it, coming from the middle (ground) terminal of the power outlet.

Most thermos kettles have a similar design, regardless of the manufacturer. The differences are in the absence of some additional protection units and functional additions (water level lighting, sound notification, etc.).

What parts does a thermopot consist of:

Tank made of stainless steel.

Two heating elements built into the bottom of the metal tank. One heater is the main one and is used to boil water. Another heater is used to maintain water heating. The photo shows the outputs of these heaters. Pin 3 is common for heating coils. To exclude electrical contact with a metal tank, ceramic beads are put on the leads.




DC motor serving for water supply. It is also called a water pump. This refers to the entire structure that combines the engine and connecting pipes through which water is supplied, as well as a supercharger combined with the engine shaft.

The supply voltage of the DC motor is 8 - 12 Volts. (in some models 24 V.)




A time relay circuit is mounted on the main board, which is switched on in the forced (repeated) boiling mode and radio elements that serve to generate the supply voltage, both the relay itself and the DC motor.


Thermopot main electronic board

On the control board there are buttons for the operating mode of the thermos kettle: “ Reboiling" And " Water supply". Also on the control board are mounted indicators of the operation of the thermopot, the role of which is performed by red (boiling mode) and green (heating maintenance mode) LEDs.


Control and indication board


External panel

The thermal switch is a plastic or ceramic barrel, inside of which there are two bimetallic contacts. Depending on the version, the contacts are either closed or open. In thermal switches, which are used in thermopots, the contacts are normally closed. When exposed to the upper limit temperature, the contacts open. When the contacts cool down to the reset temperature, usually equal to the value of 15 0 -20 0 -25 0 С below the upper threshold, the bimetallic contacts close again. Therefore, the thermal switch is a self-healing temperature contact with a fixed trip and reset temperature.




In the Elenberg thermopot under consideration, one thermal switch is installed at the bottom of the tank. It serves to turn off the main heating element when the boiling point of water is reached. The thermal switch is marked KSD 302, the response temperature is 100 0 C. The maximum current through the thermal switch contacts is limited to 10A, the permissible alternating voltage is 250 V.

The thermal switch has vertical stamped terminals for connecting connectors and a fixed flange for mounting. As a rule, white heat-conducting paste is applied to the body of the thermal switch in the places of thermal contact. It improves heat transfer between the metal tank and the thermal switch.




Exactly the same thermal switch is installed on the side of the stainless tank approximately in the middle. It also has a fixed flange. The outlets are horizontal. The operating temperature of this thermal switch is 105 0 - 110 0 C. It acts as a protective one. If suddenly, by negligence, the thermal pot was turned on without water, then the metal tank quickly heats up to a critical temperature of 105 0 - 110 0 C, and, therefore, the thermal switch contacts open completely de-energizing the electrical appliance. In case the protective thermal switch does not work, then the protective thermal fuse is activated, the operating temperature of which can be in the range of 125 0 - 150 0 C. The thermal fuse is installed next to the protective thermal switch and is pressed against the tank body with a metal bar (see photo).




In some cases, a protective thermal fuse can also be found in the bottom of the tank. It all depends on the thermometer model. So, for example, in a thermopot DELTA DL-3003 A protective thermal fuse is fixed at the bottom of the tank. The temperature of its operation is 135 0 C. It is not uncommon that the cause of the malfunction of the thermal pot is just the protective thermal fuse. It just "tightly" opens the electrical circuit. In this case, the thermopot is simply completely disconnected from the mains and there is no indication on the front panel (the LEDs are not lit).

Unlike a thermal switch, the thermal fuse contacts do not recover when cooled down. Therefore, when troubleshooting, you should check it.

It is worth noting that often the reason for the inoperability of the thermopot is just one of the thermal switches. More often it is the one that is fixed at the bottom of the tank. It's easy to check it. At room temperature, a working thermal switch is an ordinary conductor and, when checked with an ohmmeter, has almost zero resistance.

If the thermoswitch KSD 302 (or similar) is defective, it must be replaced. But finding a suitable thermal switch is not always easy. In this case, you can buy it on the Internet, for example, on AliExpress.com. In the search parameters, specify the amount and type of delivery ("Free Shipping" or free). When choosing, we look at the response temperature and the type of thermal switch leads. The terms of free delivery by mail are about 1-1.5 months, keep this in mind. I already talked about buying radio components on Ali.

The scheme of the kettle - thermos.

The figure shows a schematic diagram of a thermopot. The scheme itself was taken from the site www.eleczon.ru, but redrawn with a few additions. This scheme almost completely corresponds to the scheme of an electric kettle - a thermos Elenberg TH-6012.


Schematic diagram of a kettle - thermos

In the diagram, under the designation S1 and S2, thermal switches are shown (KSD 302 series). Thermal switch S1 is the one that is installed in the middle of the tank and is connected in series with the 220 volt mains supply circuit for the entire electrical part of the thermopot. A thermal fuse F1 is connected in series with it, which, as already mentioned, serves as a protective one.
The second thermal switch S2 is installed at the bottom of the tank. Through this thermal switch, voltage is supplied to the boiling coil.

P1 is a three-pole network connector with an average grounding terminal.

The operation algorithm of the thermal switch S2 is simple. As soon as the thermopot is connected to the mains, S2 is in a closed state and it passes current through the boiling coil. As soon as the water temperature reaches 100 0 C, contacts S2 open. Contacts S2 close again only when cold water is added to the tank as it is used up. In this case, the water temperature will be below the reset temperature of the thermal switch S2, and it will turn on again.

If the warm water from the thermopot is consumed inactively, then heating with an additional coil TH2 is enough to keep the water temperature above the reset temperature S2.
If it is necessary to boil water again without topping up, then the forced heating circuit is used for this. The essence of her work is as follows:

In parallel with S2, relay contacts S1.1 are connected, which close when the reboiling circuit is turned on. The coil of the main boiling heater is designated as TH1. A time relay is assembled on transistors VT1, VT2. Some models use a single transistor. Two are used here to increase the gain. It is worth paying attention to the electrolytic capacitor C3. Those who are already familiar with electronics have already guessed why this capacitor is needed. By briefly pressing the button S4 (" Reboiling"), the capacitor C3 will have time to charge with current pulses through the diode VD6. The diode is needed so that the capacitor does not receive an alternating voltage. Remember the properties of electrolytic capacitors.

Further, under the action of the voltage of the charged capacitor C3, transistors VT1, VT2 open. In this case, current flows through the relay winding K1, and the relay switches contacts S1.1. The power supply circuit to the main spiral TH1 is closed. After about 30-40 seconds, the capacitor C3 is discharged and the transistors VT1, VT2 are closed, de-energizing the coil of the relay K1. Consequently, the contacts S1.1 open and the spiral TH1 is de-energized. This is how the re-heating (forced) heating scheme works.

Elements C1, VDS1, C2 are a mains voltage rectifier for powering the time relay circuit. Capacitor C1 “quenches” excess voltage. The electrolytic capacitor C2 smooths out the current ripple after the bridge rectifier VDS1. This circuit is bad in that the electronic circuit of the relay is galvanically connected to the mains, which reduces electrical safety.

Note:

In some models of thermopots, a small step-down transformer can be used instead of a quenching capacitor C1, as in network adapters. This increases the electrical safety of the structure, since a step-down transformer is used, which also serves as a galvanic isolation from the mains. In addition, the supply voltage for the water supply motor is also removed from the same transformer.

Therefore, if you find a transformer in the thermopot, do not be surprised.

During the operation of the thermopot, the heating maintaining coil is constantly on! It always works as long as the thermopot is connected to the network. Through this spiral (TH2) voltage is supplied to the motor M1 (water pump). Since the motor M1 is DC, the AC voltage is rectified by diodes VD1, VD2. Spiral TH2 and diode VD1 serve as a voltage divider.
To turn on the water supply motor, press the button S3 (" Water supply"). A similar function is performed by the S4 key, which works when pressed by the edge of the mug.

A pulsating current flows through the TH2 spiral (one half-wave of the mains voltage), since a powerful diode VD1 is connected in series with it.

A thermopot is essentially an electric kettle combined with a thermos. Unlike an electric kettle, an additional heating element was added to the design of the thermopot, used to heat water and a controller that controls its operation and maintains the temperature within 75º - 95º C. Many thermopots also have a pump for water supply. The tank for heating water is covered with a casing that protects against burns and serves as the outer shell of the thermos, reducing the consumption of electricity to maintain the temperature. If the housing is made of metal, it is grounded (see wiring diagram) to protect against electric shock. All the main components of the thermopot are located at the base of the case.

Electric circuit of thermo pot

The circuit diagram of thermopots of various models and manufacturers does not differ significantly from the one below:

Diagram of a thermo pot with one temperature sensor (Fig. 1)

Schematic diagram of a thermo pot with two temperature sensors (Fig. 2)

Details and units used in thermopot:

The water pump is an electric motor with an impeller in a sealed housing, when turned on, it supplies water to the thermopot spout. Power supply 12V DC. It is fastened with screws to the housing through a silicone gasket, which protects the motor from overheating.

Temperature sensor (thermal switch) - normally closed, when the required temperature (95º - 125ºC) is reached, it opens the contacts. Designed for switching 10A 250V. It is attached to the surface of the tank with screws, thermal paste is used for better thermal contact.

Thermopot heater - a heating element consisting of two heating elements (boiling, heating) is attached to the base of the tank. Resistance of heating element 650-700 Ω, heating element resistance 65-90 Ω.

The principle of operation of an electric thermopot

The heating element of water heating is always on, when the temperature in the tank drops to 75º (for example, if cold water is added), the heating element of boiling is turned on. When the temperature reaches 95º, the thermopot turns off the boiling mode and switches to the heating mode. Power consumption in heating mode ≈70 watts, in boiling mode 1000 - 2500 watts, depending on the thermopot model.

In case of boiling water in the tank, the temperature rises sharply and when it reaches 125º the thermal switch (F1 fig.1, FU1 fig.2) breaks the power supply circuit of the thermopot until the temperature drops.

The main malfunctions of the thermopot and solutions

Thermopot does not turn on

1. When the thermopot is turned on, the boiling mode does not turn on, the water pump works.
   Boiling heater is out of order, ring, replace if out of order. Faulty relay K1 (fig.1,fig.2). Breakage of the power supply circuit of the heating element is possible.
2. When the thermopot is turned on, the boiling mode does not turn on, the water pump does not work.
   Check temperature sensors (F1 fig.1, FU1 or SF2 fig.2). The power cord or plug may be damaged. Possible broken wiring in the power circuit.

Thermopot won't turn off

Thermopot boils water constantly- the temperature sensor is faulty (SF1 Fig. 2). Faulty relay K1 (fig.1,fig.2).

Thermopot often turns on in boiling mode

The heating element of water heating is out of order, ring, replace if it is out of order. Possible break in the power supply circuit of the heating element.

Thermopot does not boil water

Thermopot takes a long time to boil. Boiling heater is out of order, ring, replace if out of order. Faulty relay K1 (fig.1,fig.2). Breakage of the power supply circuit of the heating element is possible.

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The first thing to do is look at the settings in the control panel. It is necessary to set the temperature to which you want to heat the water. If everything is fine with the adjustments, then the cause of the malfunction may be a thermal switch located at the bottom of the thermal pot and (or) a thermal fuse mounted on the walls of the tank. Also, the reason may be in poor contact of the connectors on the electronic board or the parts themselves.

Disassembly of the thermopot

1. First you need to remove the top cover so that it does not interfere in the future. Turn the device over and pry off the support ring with a flat screwdriver, which is fixed by means of latches. It takes some effort to rotate this element.
2. Next, you will see a couple of screws (there may be 3-4 of them), which you need to unscrew with a curly screwdriver.
3. Now again, take a flat tool and remove the bottom of the thermopot, which is also fastened with latches, so effort is needed.

Now all the electronic filling is in front of you. Inspect all terminal blocks and terminals, make sure that everything is connected (disconnection can occur, for example, when the device is dropped).

Thermal switches

Usually they are located on the walls of the tank and at the bottom of the device. In the second case, the part is fastened with two screws and a pair of wires put on the contact leads extends from it. To improve heat transfer, the contact point of the thermal switch and the housing is treated with a special white paste. Disconnect the terminals and pull out the switch. In a quiet position, it should be turned on - this must be checked with a tester (resistance will be 0 ohms). Screw a couple of suitable wires to it and lower it into boiling water. If the resistance has increased to infinity, then the sensor is operational, because it has turned off. Otherwise, it must be replaced with a similar one. Below are a few of these items.

Side thermal fuses

They are fixed on the walls of the tank (approximately in the middle). But there are models where these elements, which look like small cylinders, are installed on the bottom. They work at a temperature of + 105-110 ° C. Their purpose is to turn off the device if you forgot to pour water into it, but have already inserted the plug into the socket. If these elements operate at temperatures below +100 °C, then the thermal pot will heat up, but not boil water, as it happens in your case. To check this, place the part in hot water: if the thermal fuse blows before the liquid boils, then it must be changed.