Japanese iris white. Secrets of growing Japanese iris. Bearded Iris Care

botanical errors. In Japan, in its homeland, this iris is known as hana-shobu. The history of its scientific name is full of inaccuracies and discrepancies. In 1794, the Swedish botanist K. Thunberg gave the plant the name Iris ensata - sword iris. Later, for some reason, another scientist named another species - dry-loving iris growing in Central Asia (I. lactea) . And khan-shobu in garden and botanical literature began to be mentioned either as a variety of smooth (I.laevigata), or as I.Kempfer (I. kaempferii). Historical justice was restored only in 1925, when the Japanese botanist P. Koizumi returned to this species its rightful name - and. xiphoid. And yet, in books on gardening, especially Japanese ones, he often appears under the name and. Kaempfer. And another inaccuracy associated with this plant: numerous varieties of hana-shobu began to be called Japanese irises. But it is impossible to use this phrase in the singular, since in reality there is an evergreen subtropical and. Japanese (I.japonica) with orchid flowers.

A bit of history. The xiphoid iris grows wild in the southeastern regions of Primorye, on Sakhalin, two islands of the Kuril chain, the Korean Peninsula, in the northeastern regions of China and in Japan. It is in the Land of the Rising Sun that the variety of its natural forms is greatest, which Japanese flower growers were extremely skillfully able to use. Over a period of five hundred years of mastering the culture of the xiphoid, they brought out many thousands of varieties of khan-shobu. One of the most outstanding breeders of recent times is Sh. Hirao, who obtained the most interesting varieties of Hana-Shobu and published the book “The Japanese Iris” (1971) with 346 photographs.

"Oriental Eyes"
Photo by Irina Kukoleva

The acquaintance of flower growers in Europe with Japanese irises began in 1857, when the botanist F. Siebold first showed them at an exhibition in Ghent (Belgium). However, the Khan-Shobu culture did not receive wide distribution at that time. They were brought to America later, in 1869. After the introduction, active targeted hybridization quickly began, pioneered by the original breeder Arlie Payne (1880-1971). For 40 years of work, he created 170 varieties. In 1966, an award named after him was established, awarded in the United States to the best variety of Japanese irises. As a result of the active work of numerous originators, the United States has taken a leading position in the selection of Japanese irises. A significant reason for the high productivity of American breeders is the compilation by each of them of a hybridization program with a clear definition of parental pairs that meet the goals. For those who want to expand their knowledge of the culture of Japanese irises, we advise you to get acquainted with the book of the famous American breeder C. Mac Ewen (C. Me Ewen “The Japanese Iris”, 1990).

In Russia, the development of the khan-shobu culture is associated with the name of an outstanding botanist, director of the Botanical Garden in St. Petersburg, Eduard Regel (1815-1892). However, the varieties that he ordered from Germany constantly froze out. Success was achieved only when he began to grow Japanese irises from seeds collected in the mountains of Eastern China. After the revolution, work with Japanese irises resumed in the 20-30s. With the assistance of Academician Nikolai Ivanovich Vavilov, a large collection of khan-shobu was received from Japan. On the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, a talented florist Vasily Alferov worked with her. He managed to save the plants, despite all the difficulties, during the hard times of the Great Patriotic War. For a long time this collection was the only publicly available source of khana-shobu varieties in Russia.

"Caprician Butterfly"
Photo Sladkova Tatiana

If the experimental work of V. Alferov proved that varieties of Japanese selection can successfully grow and be used in landscaping on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus (as well as in many areas of the Krasnodar Territory and Stavropol Territory), then the work of Professor Moscow State University V.M. Nosilov in the Moscow region were extremely important for the promotion of culture to the north. The scientist managed to purchase a batch of varieties from France and Japan at his own expense. For a long time, testing various methods of cultivation on his site, in some years he achieved such abundant flowering that, according to him, the impression of a flowering meadow covered with magical flowers was created. Work with the collection of Japanese irises by Professor Nosilov was later continued in the Moscow region by V.T. Palvelev (see Floriculture, 1973, No. 9.).

The third period of development of the Khan-Shobu culture in Russia is characterized by the beginning of active breeding work, which is still being carried out in the Botanical Garden of Vladivostok (L.N. Mironov), in the NIISS named after. M.A. Lisavenko in Barnaul (Z.V. Dolganova), in the Botanical Garden of BIN in St. Petersburg (G. Rodionenko, I. Makarova).

Promotion to the north. For 36 years, we have tested a large number of varieties, mainly of Japanese selection, obtained from various sources, including the collection of V. Alferov. Even using various methods of sheltering plants in the pre-winter period, they did not receive a positive result. The main reason for the unsatisfactory development of khan-shobu at the latitude of St. Petersburg is that during the growing season the plants do not have enough heat. Some cultivars bloom in the first year after planting, but then wither and die. Fortunately, we managed to take advantage of this flowering and carry out a series of crosses with the xiphoid iris sent from Vladivostok. Thus, the world's first winter-hardy varieties of khan-shobu were bred: "Vasily Alferov", "Altai", "Dersu Uzala", which have been successfully growing and blooming in our country without any shelter for the winter for more than 20 years. Nature itself, as if blessing domestic flower growers for a good deed, gave the northernmost population of the xiphoid iris. For us northerners, this most beautiful species of Primorye flora is the key to discovering the treasury of the ancient culture of Japanese irises. Unfortunately, the species color of the flower dominated in the first generation of seedlings. The American breeder Dr. Mac Ewan helped us to break out of the captivity of dark purple-purple colors, who carried out a number of crosses with the participation of the Vasily Alferov variety. From the seeds received from McEwan, it was possible to grow seedlings of the second generation, among which, at last, specimens with flowers of various colors appeared.

Speaking about the Moscow experience of developing the culture of Japanese irises, in addition to the positive results obtained by prof. Nosilov, it is worth mentioning the negative ones. In the 80s, a large-scale experiment was carried out in the Main Botanical Garden with a large number of varieties of Japanese selection, which ended in complete failure (part of the varieties of the collection survived, V.K. Khondyrev creatively works with it, using the pot culture method.). The reason for the success of V.M. Nosilov, apparently, was the skillful use of the search method in the selection of resistant varieties and great ingenuity in cultivation techniques.

"Marmouroa"
Photo Prikhodko Marina

The search method based on the genetic heterogeneity of varieties, among which it is possible to select cultivars with increased adaptation to northern conditions, in combination with the skillful development of agricultural technology, still gives good results today. Another method of mastering this exotic plant is seed. A beginner iris grower can try his hand and grow natural forms of khan-shobu that will decorate any personal plot. From personal experience, I will add that from seeds collected from varietal plants, seedlings are sometimes obtained that copy the parental form. Of course, it is advisable to take seeds from varieties that have proven themselves well in this region.

Thus, the development of the culture of Japanese irises can be carried out by three methods - search, seed and hybridization. The effectiveness of the first will increase with the advancement to the southern regions. The main method for “northernization” remains the hybridization method, which allows you to change the genetic basis (you can use the results of the search method to select crossing options).

Speaking about the advancement of Japanese irises to the north, one should also mention the experiments of the Canadian breeder Tony Huber, who in recent years has successfully crossed and. xiphoid with a natural view of the Canadian flora - i. multi-colored (I. versicolor). These hybrids (biverzats) are of undoubted interest for the northern regions.

Hybridization. Telling amateur flower growers about selection work, we pursue one goal - to arouse in them the desire to do this exciting business themselves. We note here that most of the outstanding foreign iris breeders started their work precisely as amateurs, since their main specialty had nothing to do with selection. So, K.Mak Yuen is a doctor of medicine, Ben Hager is a retired officer, and prof. Sh. Hirao - ichthyologist.

Iris Japanese "Three-petal"
Photo by Irina Makarova

First you need to get acquainted with the peculiar structure of the iris flower. All representatives of this genus are entomophiles, and in nature they are pollinated by insects. In the process of adaptive evolution, the pistil column in the iris flower broke up into 3 grooved-petal-shaped lobes covering the anthers. Stigmas are located at the top of the blades. In iris flowers, the anthers are the first to ripen, which ensures cross-pollination. An insect, such as a bumblebee, entering a flower, removes pollen from the anther with its shaggy back, but is not able to pollinate the still immature closed stigma with it. But he successfully transfers it to another flower, in which the pollen has already crumbled, and the stigma has matured.

The hybridizer should do the same: having collected pollen on the first day of flower opening, use it to pollinate those in which the stigmas have ripened. The simplest method of isolation from pollinating insects is the removal of anthers and perianth lobes at the beginning of blooming. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the flower tube. For pollination, it is desirable to take the first flower that opens on the peduncle, the second can be removed. After pollination, a foil label should be hung on the plant, on which the name of the mother (first) and father varieties should be indicated. Between them put a cross sign (x). Pollen can be stored for 5-7 days in a dry place in a paper bag. It is very important to collect the seed pods in time, because when they crack, the seeds are easily blown away by the wind.

It is better to sow in early March in pots, after soaking the seeds. Their germination lasts no more than 2-3 years. Seedlings bloom in the south on the 2nd-3rd year, in the north - on the 3rd-4th. Varieties are registered in Moscow, in the Society of Iris Breeders.

Growing practices. The site must be open to the sun. Suitable soil is light loam with a slightly acidic reaction (pH 5.5). Areas with alkaline soil are unsuitable, since the xiphoid iris is by nature a pronounced calcephobe. The land should be cleared of weeds, especially rhizomatous ones, filled with compost, but not excessively.

You can plant and transplant khan-shoba in autumn and spring, but it is best in late summer-early autumn: in the northwestern regions - in the second half of May or the second half of August-first decade of September, in the south - during September-early October. For Japanese irises, the drying of roots and rhizomes is completely unacceptable, which complicates their shipment over long distances. When transporting the rhizomes, it is advisable to wrap them in slightly damp sphagnum moss or cover them with peat, place them in plastic bags perforated for air access. When planting, the old parts of the rhizome, on which there are no kidneys, are removed. If the bush is large, it can be divided. The smallest planting unit is a piece of rhizome with one leaf bundle. Leaves and roots are shortened before planting. The rhizomes are deepened by 5-7 cm. After planting, the soil around the plant is compacted and abundant watering is carried out.

In nature, hana-shobu is a perennial of wet meadows, therefore, in dry weather, it requires regular watering, especially during flowering. However, this species is not a hydrophyte, and it should not be grown in water bodies, as some flower growers do. In Japan, areas where hana-shobu are planted are sometimes flooded with water, but only during flowering to enhance the decorative effect.

Plants are planted at a distance of 30-35 cm from each other. When group planting, irises are planted closer, increasing the distance between groups. During the growing season, 2-3 top dressings are carried out, preferably with complex fertilizers containing a complete set of trace elements. Japanese irises react positively to the introduction of a weak infusion of mullein (1:10). In October, the leaves are cut at a height of 10-15 cm, after which non-hardy varieties are lightly sprinkled with fresh nutrient soil and covered with a dry oak leaf or spruce spruce branches. For the most valuable cultivars, you can arrange a dry wintering - cover it with a sheet and protect it with plastic wrap stretched over low wire arcs. The edges of the film should be pressed with stones. The arcs should be of such a shape that the snow does not slide off the shelter. In the spring, with the onset of stable positive temperatures, the shelter is removed and the bushes are unraveled.

Our long-term research has refuted the opinion expressed by some authors regarding the high winter hardiness of khan-shobu. This property is possessed only by certain natural populations of the xiphoid iris, for example, from Primorye, as well as winter-hardy varieties. The majority of cultivars, especially Japanese selection, cannot stand Russian frosts without shelter, their entire rhizome freezes out or flower buds die.

"kogesha"
Photo Kozlova Natalia

In one place, the khan-shobu bush in the southern regions can grow for 3-4 years, in the northern regions - 5-6 years. After that, the bushes must be divided and transferred to a new site, where Japanese irises did not grow before. The recommendation of some authors about the possibility of alternating Japanese irises with Bearded ones is unreasonable, since lime is often added under the latter.

Having become acquainted with the biological characteristics of Japanese irises and taking into account the climatic and soil conditions of their region, the grower can decide for himself whether he should engage in the development of a new culture and what methods to use for this.

Varieties. The advantages of khan-shobu include large flowers (in some cultivars the size of a plate), a richness of colors (from white and pale pink to intense burgundy and violet-blue), and wind resistance. Until recently, there were no varieties with yellow flowers, but now this problem has been solved by crossing with and. marsh. In addition to monophonic, there are cultivars with two-color flowers, with a border, speckled, with brightly colored veins. Varieties of Japanese irises, unlike the Bearded ones, do not become obsolete for a long time. The flower lives for three days, in cool weather - up to five, while the Siberian and Bearded have a life expectancy of no more than two days. Being the most late-flowering, hana-shobu significantly prolong the flowering time of irises. One of the main advantages of Japanese irises is resistance to bacteriosis, the most terrible disease affecting Bearded irises. Weaknesses - lack of aroma, relatively low winter hardiness, calcephobia.

For the northern regions, varieties resistant to low temperatures can be recommended: Altai, Dersu Uzala, Vasily Alferov, Shestiglazka (originator G. Rodionenko); "Woodwood", "Dobrynya", "Phantom of Happiness", "Vivat Rodionenko", "Bow to Eremenko", "In Memory of the Archer" (Z. Dolganova); foreign - "Navzikaya" ("Nawzi-kaa"),"Ouodo" ("Oyodo"),"Doppeldecker" ("Doppeldecker").

In the south, varieties bred in the Botanical Garden of Vladivostok will grow better: "Lilac Haze", "Primorye", "Pink Cloud", "Dark Night", "First Waltz" (L. Mironova); "Amur Bay" (S. Butyukov); "The Seagull" (G. Rodionenko); foreign - Toy Green" ("Go Green")"Yukhidori" ("Yukichidori"),"Prima ballerina" ("Prima Ballerina"),"Momoyido" ("Momojido"),"Kokyo-noharu" ("Kokyo-noharu"),"Caprince Butterfly" ("Caprician Butterfly"),"Hanayak-ko" ("Hanayakko"),"Hto and Cry" ("Hue and Cry"),"Enshunada" ("Enshunada"),"Aki-no-nishiki" ("Aki-no-nishiki"),"Freelld Incant-ment" ("Frilled Enchantment"),"Shozen-nyo" ("Shosen-nyo"),"Japaniz Pinuil" ("Japanese Pinwheel"),"Wounded Dragon" ("Wounded Dragon"),"Ina-arashi" ("Ina-arashi").

G. RODIONENKO "Khana - Shobu on the banks of the Neva" // "Flower" - 2001 - No. 2.

In a strict botanical classification (Iris Japonica) is an evergreen subtropical plant with orchid-like flowers, but gardeners confidently associate the name "Japanese" with varieties of Iris xiphoid (I. Ensata) and Iris Kaempfer (I. Kaempferi). This is due to the fact that, in view of botanical errors, three different names for a long time called the same type of wild irises with large (diameter from 14 to 25 cm) flowers, consisting of three lowered (or horizontal) outer perianth lobes and small ones sticking out vertically in the form of a crown, internal shares. In the end, botanists nevertheless decided, leaving the only name "xiphoid iris", but in the literature and among the people, all those mentioned earlier are still found.

In Japan, where the natural diversity of iris varieties is the greatest, as a result of active breeding work, its garden forms were bred, which began to be called hana-shobu. Today, hana-shobu is an integral pride and part of the national culture of the Land of the Rising Sun, an indispensable component of Japanese gardens and the Boys' Day holiday. Despite the fact that the xiphoid iris grows wild in Sakhalin, on the Korean Peninsula, in northern China and southeast Primorye, Japan is still considered its homeland, from where it was transported to Europe by enthusiastic fans. It is to Japanese breeders who have been searching for and breeding new unique varieties for over 500 years that flower growers owe the appearance of unique terry and multi-petal (having from 6 to 12 perianth lobes) hana-shobu.
The eastern origin of this culture was a serious obstacle to its advancement to the north, but the enthusiasm of the originators of the United States and Russia successfully overcame this barrier as well. And today, the complete collection of garden varieties of xiphoid irises has thousands of specimens with different frost resistance, flowering time, height of peduncles, flower sizes, their color and doubleness. Although most of them, bred in Japan and the USA, still have low frost resistance and are suitable for cultivation only in the southern regions. In the northern and middle latitudes, khan-shobu can not only freeze completely (together with the rhizome), but also refuse to bloom with shelter for the winter due to insufficient total heat during the growing season. In this regard, resistant varieties are recommended for cultivation at low temperatures: Vasily Alferov, Altai, Shestiglazka, Dersu Uzala, Polenitsa, Phantom of Happiness, Dobrynya, Vivat Rodionenko, "Nawzi-kaa", "Oyodo". In the southern climate, where khana-shobu develops well even without shelter for the winter, more options are provided in the choice of varieties: "Dark Night", "Pink Cloud", "Amur Bay", "First Waltz", "Lilac Haze", " Prima Ballerina", "Momojido", "Hanayakko", "Enshunada", "Wounded Dragon", "Caprician Butterfly", etc.

In Japan, irises are usually planted so that the beauty of huge flowers can be admired from a height: in the lowlands and in the former rice fields. And since hana-shobu is a moisture-loving (albeit drought-resistant) plant, it is more convenient to keep the soil moist with such a planting. In magazines in the photo you can often see Japanese irises "knee-deep" in water, but this does not mean at all that they can be grown in this way. These flowers need the most watering only during the period of budding and flowering, and only at this time to improve the decorative appearance, their plantings in Japan are filled with water. Such temporary waterlogging is not dangerous for khan-shobu, but planting it in a pond, which amateur flower growers mistakenly do, is categorically contraindicated - the rhizome quickly rots in constant humidity and the plant disappears.

The site for planting Japanese irises should be in a wandering shade or in the sun, in full shade and under trees they grow poorly and do not bloom at all. The best soil is light loam with a slightly acidic reaction, moderately fertilized with compost. These irises do not tolerate excess calcium, so they are not recommended to be planted after bearded irises, under which lime is usually applied. And if the water in the area is too hard, it is also desirable to water with soft rain. You can make a low side of the ground around the plantings to retain moisture during precipitation, but then it should also be provided for its removal after the irises have faded. When choosing a place, it should be taken into account that it is recommended to transplant a khan-shobu to a new site every 5-7 years. Large flowers and low light leaves of Japanese irises will look great in separate group plantings, but you can “settle” them surrounded by astilbes, poppies, primroses, bathing suits, loosestrife or gypsophila.

Planting Japanese iris

Khan-shobu is planted in a permanent place according to the 30x30 cm pattern, compacting even more in group plantings. Thin roots (if any) and leaves are shortened by 2/3 before planting and deepen the rhizomes by 3–5 cm, and during transplantation, by 5–7 cm. After planting, the soil is compacted, watered abundantly and mulched with peat to preserve moisture and maintain desired acidity. Softwood litter, oak leaves, crushed bark or cedar shells are also considered suitable material for mulching. Although Japanese irises may not bloom in the first year after planting, they still need abundant watering until the end of summer. In the spring, they are fertilized a couple of times with a full mineral fertilizer or a weak infusion of mullein (1:10), and in the summer, iron or manganese chelates are used once, spraying on the foliage.

In autumn (from mid-October), the leaves of Japanese irises are cut at a height of 10 - 15 cm and non-hardy varieties are covered with a layer of mulch (about 15 cm) or spruce branches. The most valuable specimens are arranged for a “dry” wintering: they fall asleep with dry leaves, set low arcs of wire over the bushes, pull a film over them and firmly fix it. In the spring, with the onset of heat, the film is removed, the mulch is periodically ted, and the bushes are completely unraveled only in mid-May.

As a rule, having successfully transferred the wintering, xiphoid irises bloom in the second year, and the grower has the opportunity to get their seeds. Hana-shobu reproduces well by seed, and in some cases it is even preferable to vegetative propagation (rhizome division). It was with the help of targeted cross-pollination of selected specimens that seeds of frost-resistant varieties of Japanese irises and an incredible number of unique irises with variegated colors were obtained. Seedlings, by the way, sometimes inherit maternal characteristics, bloom for 2-3 years in the south, 3-4 years in the north, and, as a rule, are more enduring than their "parents" in many respects. Getting seeds at home is not difficult and anyone can do it, but iris pollination has its own subtleties that you should be aware of.

Japanese iris care

When choosing plants for cross-pollination, it should be borne in mind that varietal characteristics are transmitted mainly not through the paternal line, but through the maternal line, and only specimens with the same number of petals should be crossed (for example, 3-petal ones should not be pollinated with 6-petal ones). For pollination, you need to use the very first flower that has blossomed on the peduncle, remove the rest. Of the ovaries formed after pollination, it is recommended to leave only one so that the mother plant does not weaken, and if the fruits (seed pods) do not have time to ripen before frost, the peduncle is cut off and placed in water to ripen the seeds.

It is possible to sow pre-soaked seeds in pots from the beginning of March, but for the selection of plants with increased resistance, they are sown before winter or in spring immediately in open ground. To prolong the growing season, the growing seedlings are transferred to the greenhouse, and they are transferred to the open ground after return frosts, they will bloom for the first time only after 2 years.

The noticeable shortcomings of khan-shobu (calcephobia, low frost resistance and lack of smell) in any case do not detract from the advantages of this type of irises: disease resistance, richness of colors, wind resistance, the latest flowering time among irises, large flower sizes and large (5 - 7 days ) their lifespan. And what is even more attractive: in the Japanese classification of hana-shobu, a separate Higo group is made up of varieties (more than 3000 names!) With massive flowers, intended primarily for growing in containers. Thus, blooming Japanese irises in relatively small containers become an ornament to both the garden and the house. By the way, such containers can be placed shallowly (5-8 cm below the water level) in reservoirs at the end of spring, but in August they will need to be removed and buried in the ground or placed in a greenhouse. The disadvantage of container cultivation of Japanese irises is their relatively frequent transplantation (with dividing the bush), when the rhizome of the plant begins to strongly bulge out of the soil.

Japanese irises (hana-shobu) - an unlimited space for the flight of fantasy of breeders and the admiration of loyal fans. Love them with benefit: experiment and get new varieties, because for this it is not necessary to be Japanese or an experienced breeder.

Iris flowers have captured the imagination of man since ancient times. Their whimsical shapes and colorful colors delighted and inspired artists, thinkers and representatives of other creative professions.

There are many different types of irises that have migrated from the wild to the breeding grounds. Thanks to scientists, many outlandish varieties of plants were artificially bred and grafted on plants that are more resistant to various weather phenomena.

In nature, irises grow in swampy areas and on the outskirts of the forests of Japan, China, and Myanmar. Japanese iris was not known in other countries for a long time due to the closed worldview of the Japanese. But now everything has changed, and varieties of Japanese iris, having become more frost-resistant, are already very common everywhere.

Bearded iris species are very popular among flower lovers. Their lower petals have bristle-like outgrowths resembling a beard. Different varieties of bearded irises differ in height and flower size.

For example, high varieties bloom their large inflorescences at a height above 70 cm. Border varieties of bearded irises have a height of 40 to 70 cm, and miniature irises are the smallest among their bearded relatives, having a height of up to 70 cm and rather small flowers.

The most famous representatives of beardless irises are Siberian and Japanese varieties.

Siberian iris is not only beautiful, it is also unpretentious to climatic conditions. They are not afraid of frost, wind, practically do not get sick. They have several flowers on one plant and very expressive greenery.

Not only do these plants themselves have high immunity, they also treat the soil in which they grow from pathogenic microbes. In about 4 years, there will be no trace of harmful microorganisms in the soil.

These representatives of the land of the rising sun are more demanding of the environment. Irises in their homeland symbolize samurai warriors. Flowers need slightly acidic soil and a moderate amount of moisture during flowering. The rest of the time they are quite hardy in dry conditions.

An outstanding Russian botanist - Eduard Regel, who was the director of the Botanical Garden in St. Petersburg, was very passionate about breeding frost-resistant varieties of Japanese iris. Initially, he suffered a few setbacks, but after cultivating Japanese iris seeds from East China, great progress was made. The work of the botanist and his like-minded people was interrupted by the years of the revolution, but in the 20-30s of the 20th century these works resumed again.

Another follower, Vasily Alferov, adopted the desire to preserve and increase the diversity of Japanese iris varieties. He became a real guardian angel for the collection of Japanese irises during the difficult years of the Great Patriotic War.

Irises are very popular in Japan. Whole iris gardens are planted in this country, which are usually located in the lowlands. At the time of flowering, the Japanese pour water on iris plantations, as at this time the flowers need additional moisture. Many people, admiring the beauty of the flowering of these plants, believe that irises are aquatic plants. But this is not entirely true, because after they bloom, their plantations are drained.

It is customary to admire the beauty of iris buds from above in order to appreciate the grace of a flower.

The most famous varieties of Japanese iris:

Japanese iris has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include its large, expressive flowers that bloom up to 5 days, wind resistance, immunity to bacteriosis. Its weaknesses are the lack of aroma, low winter tolerance.

Irises love the calm and the abundance of sunlight. Only Siberian irises prefer partial shade, as their delicate inflorescences do not like the scorching sun.

The soil can be of different composition: loam, sandy soils. Raw clay soils are best mixed with sand or peat components. In the lowlands, where there is a lot of moisture, only swamp species of irises feel good.

Iris bulbs are best planted in September. The soil is prepared in the same way as for the rhizomes of irises, and the bulb is lowered into the recess with the sharp end up. Distances between bulbs are best maintained at about 15 cm. Plantings are covered with mulch and left on the soil as long as there is a risk of frost. With the onset of heat, the insulation is removed from the soil and the plants are given the opportunity to germinate.

Japanese irises are a wonderful decoration for your garden or cottage. Being very heat-loving at first, now more unpretentious and frost-resistant varieties have already been bred that can please the eye in a climate far from Japanese.

When Prometheus brought fire to people, the rainbow Irida shone with happiness all day long. The next morning, instead of it, irises blossomed in colored paths.

Planting and caring for brightly flowering plants in the open field is to the liking of many fans of the Kasatikov family, because it is really joyful to look at them.

A diverse palette of petals excites flower growers to acquire more and more new varieties and forms, and very soon a real rainbow of various shades and tones blooms in the garden.

For cultivation in household plots, various hybrids of natural species of irises are used.

To understand how to properly care for them, you need to get acquainted with the basic conditions for the growth of their parents in their natural environment and create similar ones in your garden.

It is not easy to talk about irises. After all, there are about a hundred genera alone, almost 1700 species, and tens of thousands of varieties have been bred.

They are conditionally divided into rhizomatous irises (bearded and "beardless") and bulbous.

The most common bearded iris (Bearded) is created by crossing the Germanic iris with other species.

Under the common name bearded combine numerous irises - Florentine, dwarf, pale, motley and others.

In temperate latitudes, beardless Siberian (sibirica) and Japanese (ensata) irises, spuria (false) and swamp (pseudacorus) are popular, and bulbous irises are spectacular in their own way.

Herbaceous perennials have a shallow root system and short, simple or branched stems.

The leaves of irises are xiphoid and are grouped in a bunch at the edge of the stem.

Flowers solitary or in small inflorescences, fragrant in some species.

Their structure is “two-story” - the lower lobes of the perianth form the first tier - falls, from English falls - waterfalls. The upper "floor" is formed by internal petals, the so-called "dome", more often referred to as standards (in English standarts - flags), which also come in the form of a bowl.

The colors are so diverse that it is impossible to list all the existing shades of species and varieties, there are even green and black irises.

The bases of the petals form a tube, and the entire corolla vaguely resembles the structure of an orchid flower.

Most irises bloom from late May to mid-summer.

Subtleties of cultivation and care

Representatives of a large group of bearded irises are grown everywhere in temperate latitudes.

They have two periods of active development during the growing season - in mid-April, when the plants start to grow and actively grow leaves, and in the second half of June, after flowering, when the lateral processes of rhizomes grow with new fans of young foliage and the flower buds of the next year are laid. .

The grower needs to pay attention to these important points, since the care of irises during these periods is different.

Reproduction of bearded irises

Each blade of the rhizome produces 2 lateral shoots annually, but more children can be stimulated by slightly incising the rhizome in two places to a depth of 1 cm and drying it before planting in open ground.

In this way, up to 5-7 children are obtained.

When it comes time to separate them, many flower growers simply break off.

This is wrong, experienced iris growers advise cutting off a baby with a small piece of mother liquor, so the plant will receive more nutrition at the very beginning of its development.

Little trick! In order to propagate the variety you especially like as soon as possible, the central large fan is cut out as early as possible in May. This procedure stimulates the growth of replacement buds, from which new fans will develop. Unfortunately, flowering this season will have to be sacrificed.

Bearded irises are easy to propagate by seeds, you just need to remember that the traits identical with the mother plant will retain only the seeds of natural species.

Planting material collected from varietal irises brings surprises - unexpected colors of corollas and their other shape.

Seed boxes are harvested immediately after they change color: from green to yellowish or whitish, without waiting for cracking.

Seeds are sown fresh in a container with a soil mixture composed of equal parts of garden soil and sand, and left in a greenhouse until spring.

With the advent of March, they bring it into the house and germinate it in the warmth. Grown irises from seeds are planted in open ground.

Planting flowers in open ground

As a rule, planting irises in the ground is carried out in late July - early August.

It is at this time that the formation of the root system intensifies in young sprouts, and before the onset of autumn cold weather they have time to take root firmly in the ground.

In order for plants to develop normally and please with flowers, you should choose the right planting material and a site for growing them.

A good cut should have a well-developed central fan and part of a mature rhizome with replacement buds.

When buying, you should not choose a delenka with a damaged fan and rhizome sections without young growths, it may fade, but not take root.

Too small fragments will have to be grown for at least a year until they begin to bloom.

The surface of the rhizome should not have dents or mechanical damage that violated its top layer.

Before planting, the division is disinfected for 15 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (0.3%), dried and the roots are cut to a length of 10 cm.

Do not worry if the root system is poorly branched. After planting, new roots will grow at the bearded iris, and the old ones will still die off.

The leaves are cut in half.

The landing site for bearded irises is chosen in bright and open sun throughout the day.

At the slightest shading, the plant refuses to bloom.

It is not afraid of drought, and damp soil, on the contrary, is destructive, therefore it is better to plant a flower on a small elevation of relief than in a beam.

The soil for bearded iris should not be acidic.

In preparation for planting, the site is dug up on a shovel bayonet and humus is applied earlier in a week.

If the pH reaction is low, dolomite flour is also scattered.

They dig shallow holes, iris should be planted so that the “back” of the rhizome rises above the soil level.

To the sides, the rhizome does not grow too intensively, so a distance of 30-40 cm between adjacent bushes is sufficient.

Bearded Iris Care

Bearded irises are drought tolerant plants. In open ground conditions, they have enough sedimentary moisture.

In a particularly long heat with a long absence of rain, the planting of irises is watered moderately, preferably from early morning, so that the soil dries out during the day.

In the first year after planting, with proper soil preparation in the beds for irises, top dressing is not necessary.

From the next season, plants are fed twice or thrice per season with complex mineral fertilizers and wood ash.

The first feeding is carried out immediately after the snow melts, the second - when the flower stalks appear, but before they start growing, and the third - after flowering.

Dry complex fertilizers with a low nitrogen content are used according to the norms indicated on the package, on average 30-40 g / sq.m.

Granules close up in the soil after rain.

Mineral supplements are alternated with organic ones, using rotted compost, fresh manure is not applied, it provokes bacteriosis disease of irises.

Dissolved mineral complexes are also used for feeding irises at the same time as dry fertilizers.

In a bucket of water, dilute 1 tablespoon of urea and potassium sulfate and water the irises at the rate of 5 liters per sq.m.

Another component is added to the solution for the third top dressing - nitrophoska in the same amount.

Fertilizers are applied strictly in the first half of summer after rain and soil loosening.

Preparation for wintering is an important part of the bearded iris care.

It begins in August with the protection of dry-loving irises from autumn moisture - a shelter is arranged over the plants from a film, which is advisable to remove at the end of November.

From low winter temperatures, bearded irises are saved by hilling with sand in a layer of 10 cm.

Very tender varieties are also covered on top with spruce branches or lutrasil.

They disperse in May after the threat of return frosts has disappeared.

The best varieties of bearded irises

• Langport Wren - high grade about 1 m with purple-chocolate flowers;

Dwarf bearded irises - varieties

Siberian irises: the nuances of growing

Due to the lack of a traditional tuft on the lower petals, Siberian irises are called beardless flowers, they are often also called champions in hardiness - among irises they have no equal in survival in frosty winters and wind resistance.

The timing of their flowering is slightly different from the time of blooming buds in bearded irises, but the flower lasts longer than that of relatives - 4-5 days versus 1-2.

This feature influenced the choice of florists - Siberians are popular in the cut.

No less valuable is the resistance of Siberian irises to bacterioses, moreover, their root system is able to improve the soil infected with bacteria, and they are planted as predecessors in beds for bearded varieties.

Siberian irises also prefer a bright corner of the garden, so that it is illuminated by the bright sun for at least half a day.

In partial shade, its flowering will be less abundant, and the leaves will be elongated.

Unlike bearded ones, Siberian irises will like a place on the coast of a reservoir, it is able to withstand even short-term spring flooding, but not long-term winter flooding.

How to plant Siberian iris?

Siberians are transplanted and divided 1-1.5 months after flowering, approximately from mid-August to the end of September, depending on the weather.

On the eve of transplanting, the leaves are shortened, leaving only a third.

The rhizome is removed from the soil and divided so that each fragment has 3-5 rosettes of leaves.

Unlike bearded roots, drying the roots is unacceptable during transplantation.

A little mature compost is poured into the planting hole at the bottom, if the soil is sandy - also peat with clay, lime and ash should never be added.

Yellowish leaves during the growing season will tell the grower that there is an excess of lime and phosphorus in the soil.

After planting, the soil around the plants is mulched with mowed dry grass or fallen coniferous needles.

Siberian irises grow in one place without transplants up to 20 years.

Popular varieties of Siberian irises

• Dreaming Yellow - with yellow-white flowers and up to 100 cm tall;

Japanese irises: growing features

After the bearded irises, Japanese ones bloom in the garden - varieties of the xiphoid iris, also known under the synonym - Kampfer's iris.

For more than one hundred years they have been grown in Japan, which is why such a name has been assigned to them.

However, there is one confusion: the Japanese iris (Iris ensata) can be cultivated in temperate latitudes, but the evergreen resident of the tropics, the Japanese iris (Iris japonica) cannot.

Japanese irises are grown in areas open to the sun, openwork penumbra is allowed.

Suitable soil for them is light loam with a slightly acidic reaction, the plant does not tolerate an alkaline environment, since it is a pronounced calcephobe.

In nature, Japanese irises grow in wet meadows, so they need regular watering in the summer heat, but they are not hydrophytes and growing them near water bodies will be erroneous.

Unlike bearded irises, Japanese irises are filled with compost or humus.

Plants can be transplanted from spring to autumn, but no later than the last days of September, they are fed twice a season with complex mineral fertilizers.

Virtually unaffected by diseases and pests, except for gladiolus thrips.

In their homeland they are called "ground orchid" and are honored on the day of iris - the holiday of young men, future samurai.

False iris spuria: differences in care from bearded irises

By natural origin, spuria are thermophilic, but many varieties have been bred that can withstand even Siberian frosty winters.

They grow in rather Spartan conditions - on saline clay soil, withstand both short-term flooding and prolonged drought.

But in order for the plant to fully reveal its flowering potential, it must be watered in the sultry heat.

Spuria is transplanted in early spring or in the second half of summer.

The plant loves calcareous soils with sufficient nutrients.

Unlike the bearded iris, it is undesirable to plant a false iris so that the rhizome looks out.

After planting, the soil around the plants is mulched with a good layer of old compost.

Top dressing is extremely important for the development and abundant flowering of spuria, so the first top dressing is done as soon as the snow melts - urea is scattered at the planting site, then complex mineral fertilizers are applied in mid-May and the first decade of June.

Like bearded irises, spurias do not tolerate fresh organic matter.

Iris marsh: planting and care

Wild-growing marsh iris is an unpretentious plant in cultivation. He likes open damp places, but he will also put up with partial shade.

It grows near water bodies, in flooded hollows, but with a depth not exceeding 50 cm.

Humus and a little bone meal are added to the planting hole.

Marsh irises are similar to spuria, sometimes they can only be distinguished during division, by the reddish cut of a dissected lignified rhizome.

Marsh iris delenki take root painlessly throughout the entire growing season.

If the plant is planted away from water, it needs abundant watering.

Breeders have bred very decorative dwarf varieties, not exceeding half a meter in height, which delight flower growers not only with elegant flowers, but also with painted foliage.

The color of the corollas varies from snow-white to rich yellow.

There are rare terry forms, in which the flowers seem to be nested one inside the other.

bulbous irises

Plants with a modest size, compared to other irises. There are much fewer of them than rhizomatous ones, but they are very loved and recognized by flower growers.

The whole group is divided into three main species - Reticulata, Xiphium, Iuno, among which there are both early-flowering dwarfs and large-flowered specimens that bloom in the middle of summer.

All bulbous irises love light, nutritious, slightly alkaline soil with the presence of chalk.

They are planted in sunny areas in September-October to a depth of 8 cm, guided by the size of the bulbs: the planting depth should not exceed 2-3 cm of its height.

The most delicate of the bulbous irises is the juno, which imposes not too many requirements on growing conditions, but it must be met.

First of all, a dry dormant period, as for many ephemeroid bulbous irises, a sunny and well-drained place.

Diseases and pests of irises

Flower growers involved in the cultivation of irises consider their root system especially vulnerable to rot.

There are several reasons - bacteriosis, as well as fungal pathogens of gray and fusarium rot.

High soil moisture, lack of calcium and phosphorus, excess nitrogen, fresh organics contribute to diseases.

Affected plants stop growing, their leaves turn brown at the tips, begin to dry out and pull out easily, and an unpleasant odor comes from their bases.

Rotting rhizomes are removed, the remaining plants are sprayed with fungicides.

Roots rot and as a result they are inhabited by pest larvae - onion flies, onion and tuberculate hoverflies, against which folk recipes help well - dusting the backs of rhizomes and soil with a mixture of naphthalene and sand or spraying with tobacco decoction.

The ground part of the irises suffers from spotting or heterosporiosis, the most unpleasant disease of irises, which manifests itself in the first half of the growing season in the form of whitish-gray spots with a yellow, slightly watery border.

At the first symptoms, the affected leaves are cut off, and the whole plant is treated with copper- or zinc-containing fungicides, for example, topsin, oxychome or ditan.

Peduncles and buds of irises have their own enemies - the iris fly, the alenka beetle and the bronze.

If the plants are saved from the fly by spraying with aktara, then it is impossible to fight the bronzes - others fly to the place of the destroyed ones.

Helps a little decoction of red hot pepper which repels beetles.

To prepare it, 10 fresh or 5 dry peppers are boiled for an hour in 1 liter of water, kept for 48 hours, filtered, 40 g of soap are added and iris plantings are sprayed.

Much more insidious scoops, which gnaw the bases of peduncles at night.

Those break easily from the wind, and the grower cannot understand the cause of the damage.

The main control measures are double spraying with an insecticide during the appearance of peduncles, after about May 10 in the middle lane, for example, Actellik, Intavir, spark and others.

The main advantage of irises is their rich palette of flowering, a real rainbow of shades, the proud and imperturbable appearance of the plant, the diversity of varieties and hybrids, as well as the relatively unpretentious cultivation and care in the open field.

By the second half of July, many flowers fade. But it is at this time that the Japanese iris blooms. The flower, which appeared several millennia ago, is distinguished by bizarre forms that provided the plant with wide distribution. There are more than 1000 varieties of Japanese iris, differing in appearance, flowering time, place of growth and care requirements.

This variety of irises grows not only in Japan, but also far beyond the borders of the Land of the Rising Sun. The plant got its name due to the fact that it has been cultivated here for more than 500 years. However, wild-growing varieties of the plant are found on the territory of the Russian Far East. Iris has Chinese roots, since it was in the Celestial Empire that the plant began to be cultivated. Later, the Japanese adopted the culture of growing a flower from their neighbors.

Despite the wide variety of varieties, all Japanese irises have one distinctive feature: a large flower of a non-standard shape.

Regardless of the type, each plant has the following characteristics:

• superficial root system;
• stems short or branched;
• leaves are sword-shaped and 25-60 centimeters long, grouped along the stem;
• the diameter of the flowers is 15-25 centimeters;
• flowers solitary or collected in inflorescences;
• rare varieties of iris exude a smell;
• blooms within 3-5 days;
• grows with sufficient watering and on the sunny side;
• tolerates diseases well and badly - frosts.

The flowers of the Japanese iris are two-tiered: the first form the perianth lobes ("waterfalls"), the second - the inner petals ("dome"). At the base is a tube that looks like an orchid. Japanese iris is distinguished by a variety of colors, ranging from light to dark (up to black) shades.

Variety of species of Japanese irises

There are more than one thousand species of Japanese iris. There are varieties that grow only in water. Others are "attracted" by areas with rare rains. There are varieties, the length of which reaches one meter.

Good Omen

The Good Omen variety is distinguished by the following characteristics:

• lilac-violet leaves;
• stem length - 80-120 centimeters;
• resistant to bacteria.

The plant has poor frost resistance, therefore it requires shelter for the winter.

Queens Tiara

Queens Tiara reaches 90 cm in height. The petals of this flower have a lilac-white tint and reach 15 centimeters in diameter. Unlike other varieties of Japanese iris, Queens Tiara tolerates frost well.

Nessa no Mai

In height, the iris of this variety grows by 70-80 centimeters. The flowers of the plant are distinguished by a variety of shades: the central part is white, and purple and yellow spots are present on the petals. The plant does not require abundant watering and dies in waterlogged (marshy) areas. The variety Nessa no Mai does not tolerate frost well, so the iris must be covered before the onset of cold weather.

Freckld Geisha

The average height of the iris stems of the Frekld Geisha variety is 85 centimeters. The leaves have a white color, which is "diluted" with lilac spots. Freckled Geisha irises grow in light, loamy, acid-free soils. The plant dies in waterlogged soil and during frosts.

Kogesho

The variety belongs to the dwarf variety of Japanese iris. The length of the Kogesho stem reaches 60-80 centimeters. In this case, the diameter of the flower is 19 centimeters. The petals of Kogesho are white with yellow spots, and the central part is pink. The variety grows in sunny and dry areas, hidden from strong winds.

Features of agricultural technology for Japanese irises

Japanese irises rarely get sick. However, this culture makes relatively high demands in terms of care and habitat. Before planting a plant, it is recommended to decide on a variety suitable for a particular growing region.

Most irises do not tolerate frost well, but appear from under the soil in March-April. Therefore, when growing in Central Russia, it is worth purchasing high-quality covering material.

Irises do not tolerate contact with potassium, and therefore the plant is not recommended to be planted in limestone soils. The soil with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction is considered optimal for a flower. Also, the plant can be planted in a soil mixture consisting of:

• rotted organics (leaves, grass);
• loam;
• phosphate fertilizer;
• peat.

When planting, the leaves and root system are shortened. Holes for iris are recommended to be made at a distance of 30-35 centimeters. When dividing a bush, flowers should be planted deeper than they were previously.

The plant loves rain soil, to hold which gardeners often form bumpers around the beds. It must be remembered that iris does not grow well in waterlogged soil. Therefore, organizing the sides, it is necessary to provide for a drainage for rainwater.

Irises grow in well-lit areas. When choosing a place, it is recommended to give preference to the sunny side, away from tall trees. The plant is buried no more than 3-7 centimeters. This layer of soil is sufficient for normal nutrition and protection from drying out. For soil mulching, pine nut shells, coniferous waste or crushed bark are used.

After planting, the flowers should be watered abundantly. If Japanese irises are planted on the territory of Central Russia, in the spring it is recommended to cover the plant with plastic wrap by organizing a small greenhouse.

Site requirements for planting Japanese irises

The main requirements for the site were given earlier. When grown outdoors, irises need abundant watering (especially during the flowering period). At the same time, it is important to prevent waterlogging of the soil. For irrigation, rainwater should be used, for the collection of which separate containers are installed on the site.

In order for moisture to linger for a long time next to the flowers, gardeners make small holes near the bushes.

Dividing and planting Japanese iris bushes

• in northern latitudes - in late August or early September;
• in the southern regions - at the end of September or the beginning of October;
• for the south and north - in the second half of May.

When dividing or planting, it is necessary to remove old and dead roots that do not have buds. The plant is dried for several days, and then planted in the prepared area. After purchase, the flowers are not recommended to be kept in the cold for a long time. Roots that do not receive moisture dry out and the irises die.

If necessary, the plant is first planted in a container and kept until mid-May at a temperature of 15-18 degrees.

On the site, irises are recommended to be placed at a distance of 30 centimeters. When forming beds, plants can be planted denser relative to each other. Rhizomes and leaves are shortened by 2/3. During the initial planting, the flower deepens by 3-5 centimeters, when dividing - by 5-7 centimeters.

When placing the plant on the site, the soil is first mulched with peat (needed to maintain moisture) and coniferous waste, and then watered abundantly.

Japanese iris fertilizer

Fertilizer for Japanese irises is applied twice or thrice a year, during the growing season. The first time the flower is fed after planting. For this, mineral fertilizers or a weak solution of cow dung are used (mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10). During the growth period, the plant is recommended to be regularly mulched. This contributes to a uniform and abundant flow of oxygen, due to which young roots develop.

In summer, Japanese irises are sprayed with iron chelate or a weak solution of manganese. This procedure is carried out in order to prevent early yellowing of the leaves.

Pests and diseases of Japanese irises

Japanese irises rarely get sick. However, the plant is susceptible to rot in waterlogged soils. Therefore, before planting a flower, it is recommended to organize a drainage layer by adding sand or fine expanded clay to the soil. This will prevent souring and waterlogging of the soil.

Irises are susceptible to thrips. If signs of infection by these insects are found, the flowers should be treated with insecticides. In autumn, affected leaves and petals should be cut and burned. This prevents re-infection of new plants the next year, as insect eggs are destroyed.

Preparing Japanese irises for winter

Irises begin to prepare for winter in mid-October. To do this, the plant is cut to 15 centimeters. If non-frost-resistant varieties are grown on the site, then the flowers are then covered with a 15-centimeter layer of mulch or spruce branches. The following option is considered the best solution for wintering: the plant is covered with dry leaves, and the top is covered with plastic wrap stretched over wire arcs.

Growing Japanese irises in a container

Japanese irises, due to the peculiarities of growth (rhizomes do not diverge in breadth), are suitable for growing in containers. This method of planting is used in cases where the plant is placed in water bodies. It is allowed to lower the flowers into the water by 5-8 centimeters.

It should be planted in reservoirs with the onset of summer. Irises are taken out of the water in August, when the temperature of the air (and water) begins to drop at night. After that, the container must be buried in the greenhouse and left until next year, following the previously described manipulations to prepare for winter.

When growing Japanese irises in a container, it is necessary to regularly sprinkle and mulch the soil. This is due to the fact that the plant is pulled up, thereby forming a bump around the trunk. When grown in containers, it is recommended to divide and replant the flowers more often. Otherwise, over time, the irises will not have enough space for the development of the root system, which will lead to the death of the culture.

Control of diseases and pests of Japanese irises

Common diseases that Japanese irises are susceptible to include:

1. Bacteriosis. There is no specific treatment for this disease. Leaves affected by bacteriosis are removed and burned. If necessary, the flowers are removed from the flower bed along with the roots.
2. Wet rot. To prevent infection, the roots are kept for half an hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate before planting.
3. Fusarium (gray rot). In order to prevent infection and in the treatment, a 5% solution of bicarbonate soda or copper sulfate is used.
4. Heterosporiasis. To prevent infection, it is necessary to introduce phosphate fertilizers in doses. In the treatment of heterosporiosis, fungicides are used.
5. Botrytis. In the treatment of the disease, fungicides of the triazole class are used.
6. Leaf mosaic. The affected leaves must be removed, and the plant must be sprayed with a 0.2% solution of copper oxychloride.

If thrips are found, the flowers should be treated with a mixture obtained from 90 grams of karbofos emulsion and 10 liters of water. The plant is sprayed once a week. To combat the bronze beetle, Kinmiks solution is used.