Replacing the power supply circuit of the electric motor of a household washing machine. The engine from the washing machine and the scheme of its connection to the network. Nuances of connecting power

Hi all! Washing machines often break down and end up in landfills. But some parts and details of machines can still serve and bring a lot of benefits. A classic example is emery and a washing machine.
Today I will tell and show you how to properly connect an electric motor from a modern washing machine to a 220 V AC mains.
I want to say right away that such engines do not need a starting capacitor. Just the right connection is enough and the engine will spin in the direction you need.

Washing machine motors are commutator. In my case, the connection block has six wires, yours can only have four.
Here's what she looks like. We don't need the first two white wires. This is the output from the engine speed sensor. We mentally exclude them or even bite off with wire cutters.

Scheme

Connection to 220 V network

How to change the direction of rotation?

A home master on the farm often has to do what is not always easy and convenient by hand. In this case, a variety of machines come to the rescue. But you need a device that will set them in motion, for example, an electric motor. But asynchronous three-phase motors, although simple in design and very common, it is not always possible to find and buy capacitors for it. Therefore you can use . In this article, we will consider a diagram of connecting the engine from the washing machine to the network for forward rotation and reverse.

What motors are used in washing machines

Most washing machines use commutator motors. They are convenient in that they do not require starting and running capacitors, they can be directly connected to the network. In addition, the simplest speed controller for them can be bought at any electrical store.

The commutator motor from the washing machine consists of:

• Rotor with collector;

  brush knot;

  Tachogenerator or hall sensor.

To measure the engine speed and regulate it, just the same tachogenerators or Hall sensors are used. They are not used for a normal engine start from a 220V network, but they are needed to work with complex speed controllers that maintain the power on the shaft regardless of its load (within the nominal range, of course).

Wiring diagram

Initially, the motors from the washing machine are connected to the network using a terminal block. If it has not been removed before you, when inspecting the engine, you will see a similar picture:

The order of the wires may vary, but basically their purpose is as follows:

2 wires from brushes;

2 or 3 wires from the stator winding.

2 wires from the speed sensor.

Note:

If you have three wires from the stator, then one of them is the middle terminal, used to increase the speed in the spin mode. Then if you find that one pair of wires gives a higher resistance than the other pair, then by connecting to the ends with more resistance, the revolutions will be less, but the torque will be higher. And if you choose conclusions with less resistance, then vice versa - the speed is higher, and the moment is lower.

Depending on the specific model, contacts of some kind of protection, for example, thermal and so on, can be displayed on the block. As a result, to simply connect to the network, we need four wires, for example, these:

Recall that most of the motors that boost are collector motors with series excitation. What does it mean? It is necessary to connect the stator winding in series with the excitation winding, that is, with the armature winding.

To do this, you need to connect one end of the stator winding to the mains wire, connect the second end of the stator winding to the wire of one of the brushes, and connect the second brush to the second mains wire, such a connection diagram is shown in the figure below.

Reverse

In practice, it happens that for wall applications it is not possible to fix the motor in another plane, then its direction of rotation may not suit you. There is no need to despair. To change the direction of rotation of the motor from the washing machine, you just need to switch the ends of the stator winding and the excitation winding.

In order to be able to switch the direction of rotation of the motor during operation, a toggle switch of the DPDT type must be used. These are six contact toggle switches in which there are two independent contact groups (two poles) and two positions in which the middle contact is connected to either one or the other extreme contact. Its internal circuit is shown above.

The connection diagram of the motor from the washing machine with the possibility of switching the direction of rotation is shown below.

You need to solder the wires from the brushes to the extreme contacts of the toggle switch, and the wire from the stator winding to one of the middle contacts, and the mains wire to the second. The other end of the stator winding is still connected to the network. After that, you need to solder the jumpers to the free two contacts "cross-wise".

Speed ​​control

The speed of all collector motors is easily adjustable. To do this, change the current through their windings. This can be done by changing the supply voltage, for example, by cutting off part of the phase, reducing the effective voltage value. This method of regulation is called the Pulse-Phase Control System (SIFU).

In practice, to adjust the engine from the washing machine, you can use any power of 2.5-3 kW. You can use a dimmer for lighting lamps, but in this case, replace the triac with a BT138X-600 or BTA20-600BW, for example, or any other with 10 times the current margin relative to the motor consumption, unless of course the initial characteristics are not enough. You can see the connection diagram below.

But there is a price to pay for the simplicity of the solution. Since we reduce the supply voltage, we also limit the current. Accordingly, the power also decreases. However, under load, the motor, in order to maintain the set speed, begins to consume more current. As a result, due to the reduced voltage, the engine will not be able to develop maximum power, and its speed will drop under load.

To avoid this, there are special boards that maintain the set speed by receiving feedback from the speed sensor. It is those wires that we did not use in the considered circuits. It works according to an algorithm like this:

1. Checking the set speed.

2. Reading sensor values ​​and storing them in a register.

3. Comparison of sensor readings, real revolutions with the given ones.

4. If the actual revolutions correspond to the given ones, do nothing. If the turns do not match then:

If the speed is increased, we increase the angle of cut of the SIFU phase by a certain value (we lower the voltage, current and power);

If the speed is lowered, we reduce the angle of cut of the SIFU phase (we increase the voltage, current and power).

And so it repeats in a circle. Thus, when you load the motor shaft, the system itself decides to increase the voltage supplied to the motor or reduce it when the load increases.

It is not necessary to rush to develop such, there are inexpensive ready-made solutions. An example of such a device is built. You can see an example of a connection diagram below.

Here the signatures are:

M - output to the engine.

AC - connection to the network.

T - connection to the tachometer.

R0 - current speed controller.

R1 - minimum speed.

R2 - maximum speed

R3 - to adjust the circuit if the engine runs unevenly.

Scheme of the given board (click on the picture to enlarge):

Conclusion

Please note that the collector, or as it is also called by the people, the brush motor from washing machines is quite high-speed, in the region of 10,000-15,000 rpm. This is due to its design. If you need to achieve low speeds, such as 600 rpm, use a belt or gear drive. Otherwise, even with the use of a special regulator, you will not be able to achieve normal operation.

When determining a place suitable for a washing machine, among other things, it is important to know its dimensions: height, width and depth, which should be studied at the stage of choosing a machine.

1. Unpacking and installing the washing machine

When the washing machine finally arrived from the store to your home, it must be freed from packaging, remove the cardboard box, remove the foam, remove the shipping tray on which it stands from under the machine, etc. (There should also be an instruction manual in the box, feel free to read it.)

After the machine is released from the packaging and transferred to the place allotted for it, it is necessary to remove the transport (locking) screws that fix the drum of the machine. These screws are factory installed to protect the washing machine from damage during shipping. To remove them, it is necessary to unscrew the screws located on the back wall of the machine with a wrench (it is not necessary to completely unscrew them) and by pulling them out of the holes, pull out the rubber and plastic bushings, as shown in Figure 1.

If for some reason the sleeve does not get out or vice versa fell into the machine (for example, if the screw was completely unscrewed), they can be removed by removing the back panel with a Phillips screwdriver as shown in Figure 2.

In the holes formed after the removal of the transport screws, you need to insert special plugs that come with the washing machine.

IMPORTANT! Attempting to start the washing machine with the transport screws in place may result in damage and failure!

The washing machine should be installed strictly horizontally on a flat and hard surface, a soft floor covering will contribute to an increased level of vibration of the machine.

After installing the machine, you should check whether it stands firmly by holding the top of the washing machine with your hands and shaking it, if the machine sways on its legs, they must be adjusted so that they all stand firmly on the floor. To do this, loosen the lock nut with a wrench and then manually unscrew or screw the leg (support) itself to the desired height, as shown in Figure 3. After the desired height of the leg is set, it is necessary to tighten the lock nut again with a wrench.

This completes the preparation of the washing machine for operation. The next step is to connect the washing machine to the water supply, sewerage and electrical network:

1. Connecting the washing machine to the water supply

The washing machine must be connected to cold water using a special hose that comes with it in the kit:

As you can see in the picture above, this hose has 2 outlets with nuts: one is L-shaped (with a turn of 90 0) - for connecting to a washing machine, the second is straight, used to connect to a water supply system.

We fasten the L-shaped hose outlet to the washing machine:

The hose is usually connected to the water supply through special taps with a thread diameter of 20 mm (¾ inch) for connecting it.

NOTE: If the length of the standard hose supplied with the machine is not enough, you can separately purchase a similar longer hose at any plumbing store.

The most common way to connect a washing machine to a water supply system is to connect it through a three-way ball valve (tee ball valve):

Most often, such a faucet is used when installing a washing machine under the sink (or not far from it), or in the toilet, in which case its installation will take no more than 20-30 minutes:

As you can see in the picture above, a three-way faucet can be installed at the point where the water supply hose of the mixer or the toilet bowl drain barrel is connected to the water supply, for this you need:

1. Shut off the water supply taps.
2. Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the water supply hose to the mixer (toilet bowl) from the cold water supply pipe.
3. Wrap flax or FUM tape on the threads of the cold water pipe to seal the future connection.
4. Screw a three-way valve onto the prepared thread of the cold water supply pipe using an adjustable (pipe) wrench.
5. Screw the water supply hose of the mixer (toilet bowl) onto the external thread of the 15 mm three-way tap.
6. Screw the water supply hose to the washing machine onto the external thread of the 20 mm three-way tap

That's all, the connection of the washing machine to the water is completed.

There are also less popular ways to connect the washing machine to the water supply, for example, they include such a method as installing a compression coupling, for which a hole with a diameter of 10 mm is drilled in the water pipe, a compression coupling is installed on this hole, into which an angled ball valve 15x20 mm is screwed:

Video of installing a ferrule for connecting a washing machine:

If there is no water supply near the installation site of the washing machine, then you will have to run a separate pipeline to the machine by cutting it into the existing water supply system using special tee couplings, but it is better to entrust this matter to a specialist.

1. Connecting the washing machine to the sewer

The washing machine is connected to the sewer through its drain hose, which, as a rule, should be installed above the drain elbow (siphon) into a sewer pipe with an inner diameter of at least 40 mm to prevent sewage from being sucked back into the machine. In this case, the drain hose must be at a height of 60 to 90 cm from the floor level, as shown in the figure below:

The easiest way to connect the machine to the sewer is to lead the drain hose directly into the sink, into the bath or into the toilet, in this case the hose must be fixed at the bend with a special bracket:

Also, a fairly simple way to connect the machine to the sewer that does not require large investments is to connect the drain of the washing machine to a special branch of the sink siphon, if there is no such branch, it is necessary to replace the existing siphon with a siphon with a special branch, attach a drain hose to it and clamp it with a clamp:

Video of connecting the drain of the washing machine to the washbasin siphon:

If the above methods of connecting the machine to the sewer are not suitable, you will have to insert special tees into the existing sewer pipe and, if necessary, bring a separate pipe to the washing machine, but it is better to entrust this matter to a specialist.

1. Connecting the washing machine to the mains

The connection of the washing machine to the mains must be carried out through a socket with a grounding contact and a rated current of 16 Amperes:

This outlet must be connected with a three-core cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 for aluminum, or 1.5 mm 2 for copper, i.e. it is necessary to use cable AVVG 3x2.5 (aluminum three-core cable) or VVG 3x1.5 (copper three-core cable):

In turn, the above cable must be connected through with a rated current of 16 Amps and a leakage current of 30 mA (milliamps):

If the existing electrical wiring does not meet the above requirements for the washing machine, a separate line should be drawn from the input electrical panel, or the floor switchboard if it is necessary to connect the machine in the apartment.

To connect the machine to the mains, you will need the following materials:

Work on connecting the washing machine to the electrical network is carried out in the following order:

1) In the selected place, we install a socket on the wall using plastic dowel-nails 6x50 (holes for dowels in the wall are drilled with a drill or puncher with a 6mm diameter drill 2). We connect the cable to the outlet.

3) We install a difavtomat in the electrical panel, connect it to the mains and connect the cable drawn from the outlet to it:

The difavtomat should be installed on a DIN rail in an electrical panel, if there is not enough space for it on the existing rail, an additional DIN rail must be installed.

The phase wire (red in the diagram, white in the cable) is connected to the upper contact of the existing automatic switch of the apartment in which the washing machine is installed and connected to the upper contact of the difavtomat.

The working zero (blue on the diagram and in the cable) is connected from the zero bus to the upper contact of the difavtomat marked “N”.

The protective zero / ground wire (yellow-green on the diagram and in the cable) is connected directly to the zero bus, or to the ground bus, if any, while it is important that the wires of the working and protective zeros in the electrical panel are clamped under different bolted connections, twist these two wires together and clamp them under common contact Absolutely forbidden! 5

To the editorhomiusreaders often receive reports on the work they have done, which can be called elementary. Even a child can handle this job. However, many novice masters still hire specialists to perform it. Today we will talk about just such a case. This installation manual was sent to us by Pyotr Valentinovich Mashkovtsev from the city of Kursk.

I doubted for a long time whether it was worth describing such a simple work, in the end I decided that it could be useful to someone. The reason was the incident that happened to the son of one of my friends, who called the masters to connect the washing machine. As a result, their work took 15 minutes, and the customer's pocket lost 1,000 rubles. It is from such actions that I want to warn others by posting my article.

The most important thing is to decide on the components that will be needed to connect the washing machine. I already had a similar experience, because. not the first year I "dangle" in rented apartments. Therefore, when entering the “new” rented apartment, the first thing I paid attention to was communications. I was lucky - almost everything was done, it only remained to connect. But, despite this, I will describe the process in detail, along the way talking about more complex options.

If a washing machine has never been connected to the apartment, there will be a little more problems, but not so much as to give money to the masters. In this case, the work can cost from 1400 to 1800 rubles, depending on the complexity. To connect, you will need to purchase a three-way or two-way valve, a sewer tee and a rubber coupling.

In the photo you can see a larger coupling designed for joining a plastic tee with a cast-iron pipe, as well as a smaller one - it is intended for directly from the machine itself.

Why do we need additional taps and sewer tees

Many believe that the crane in such a case is an unnecessary addition. They believe that the valve in the washing machine, in the absence of voltage on it, in principle, cannot pass water. I hasten to upset such people - this is a serious and rather dangerous delusion for your own wallet. These valves often fail. The result is easy to predict - the overflow of the drum, overflow, followed by flooding of one or even several lower floors and large financial costs to compensate the victims. Even manufacturers recommend turning off the water when the machine is not in use.

In the new apartment, as already mentioned, the water supply for the washing machine was completed, so I am attaching a photo from the old one, where I made it myself.

As for the sewer tee, it is most convenient to install it on the sink drain.

Quite often, people buy with an additional branch. Maybe I'm wrong, but this is not the best option. Such a connection contributes to the rapid clogging of the siphon - after all, it is often necessary to wash work clothes soiled in sand in the machine. And such fractions quickly settle in the sump.

As for connecting a three-way valve, it is quite simple. Without further ado, you can understand how it is performed using the example of a photo. For them, a new two-way and three-way valve and a hose were specially taken, with which the drain tank is connected.

Related article:

: options for placing the unit, installation, tools and fixtures necessary for work, a description of how to connect the "washer" to the drain and home water supply systems - in our article.

Let's start connecting: in my case it is very simple

So, a machine was brought from the old housing. It is certainly not new, but quite reliable. Please note that the inlet hose is factory, only 1.5 m long, but this size should be enough for me. If necessary, it can be extended by purchasing an additional one in the store.

Despite the fact that the machine is not new, I saved the transport bolts - I knew that I would have to move often. And in any other case, I advise you not to throw them away. It is not known when and where it will need to be transferred. And on the road, shaking can completely disable the car - without bolts, the drum will swing strongly. On new washing machines, shipping bolts are installed without fail. Usually there are four of them, but I have met units with five bolts.

Before starting the installation, these elements must be unscrewed, and then the rubber (sometimes plastic) plugs should be removed. Otherwise, the washing machine will fail the first time you turn it on.

Inspection of water supply and drainage systems

As I said, I was lucky. Pushing the lower plastic curtain (under the bath) I found a water supply with a tap and an outgoing sewer pipe, which was prudently closed with a plastic plug. Despite the scary, dirty look, everything functioned perfectly. It was decided to immediately bring the washing machine into.

It is clear that it is not very practical to connect the drain from the machine horizontally. Therefore, I purchased a conventional elbow for sewerage and an internal sleeve for sealing.

Connecting the water supply to the washing machine

On the back wall of the machine on top there is a place for attaching the hose. It's easy to see. Please note that the inner mesh (if the unit is not new) is intact and not clogged with debris. Many manufacturers complete their products with an additional mesh, which is also an o-ring between the machine and the hose. It is worth noting here that the absence or rupture of this filter element will inevitably lead to valve jamming in the open position and subsequent overflow.

When connecting the inlet hose, note that the side bent at an angle of 45º goes to the washing machine, and the straight side goes to the water supply. The nut has special "wings" for easy tightening. In no case should you stretch them with any tool. At best, this will lead to gasket settling and subsequent leakage. At worst, the plastic will simply burst, and the hose will have to be changed entirely. The softness of the gaskets is designed to be tightened by hand, while ensuring complete tightness.

The same applies to the nuts for the supply from the water supply. However, only a new hose can be screwed “thoughtlessly”. If we are talking about an old, already used one, then the gaskets should be checked. Rubber tends to stiffen over time. If the gasket is stiff enough, it is best to change it - it will be calmer.

Final Steps

Lastly, the drain hose is installed in its place. It fits tightly enough into the rubber sleeve, which eliminates not only leaks, but also the appearance of an unpleasant odor from the sewer. After that, you can open the water supply tap. There will be a short hiss - this is filling the inlet hose. At this point, you need to take a piece of rag and carefully wipe all the connections. After a minute, it will be possible to determine the presence or absence of the slightest leaks on them. This is easy to do with a piece of ordinary toilet paper, on which moisture will be immediately visible, if any.

Adjusting the installation level of the washing machine

All four legs of the washing machine are screw, which means that by rotating them, you can install the unit on any, even uneven floor. Adjustment should begin with the rear legs, while the machine is not yet moved to the wall. We lay the mounting level on the top cover along the tailgate, rotate the legs one by one until we achieve the ideal horizon. After that, we move the machine to the wall to a permanent place and start working with the front supports.

The second line displays the level on one side - between the front and rear legs. Lastly, the second front support is adjusted. It is worth remembering that not only the noiselessness of its operation, but also its durability will depend on how accurately the level of the washing machine is set.

The most common question is why she jumps

Many do not understand why during the spin cycle the washing machine starts to jump, sometimes even “crawling” to the side. The answer is simple enough. Each unit has its own minimum load, which is indicated in the technical documentation. If the weight of things is lower than expected, then the machine is simply unable to evenly distribute them over the drum. As a result, all the laundry is bunched up and an imbalance occurs during the spin cycle, which leads to increased vibration.

Conclusion

If you figure it out, such work does not present any difficulties. In my case, with communications connected, it took 15 minutes (the work of the master - 800 rubles). If you do it from scratch, then everything will take no more than an hour (the cost is 2-2.5 times higher).

The editors of Homius invite home craftsmen and craftsmen to become co-authors of the Stories section. Useful stories from the first person will be published on the pages of our online magazine.

Each user knows that the electric motor is the artificial heart of any household appliance, and it is he who rotates. Every home master is interested in the question: is it possible to connect the engine from the washing machine to another device on its own?

This is not so difficult to do, even for a person who is completely unfamiliar with the basics of electrical engineering. Let's say you have Indesit, but an engine with a power of 430 W, which develops a speed of up to 11,500 rpm, is in good order, its motor resource has not been exhausted. So, it can be used for household needs.

There are many different ideas on how to use and reconnect an engine from a failed one.

1. The simplest option is to do grinder, because in the house you constantly need to sharpen knives and scissors. To do this, it is necessary to firmly fix the electric motor on a solid foundation, fix a grindstone or grinding wheel on the shaft and connect it to the network.
2. For those involved in construction, concrete mixer. For these purposes, a tank from a washing machine is useful after a little refinement. Some make homemade vibrator for concrete shrinkage is a good option to use a motor.
3. Can do vibrating table if you are engaged in the production of cinder blocks or paving slabs in your backyard.
4. Shell and mill for chopping grass - a very original use of an engine from an old washing machine, indispensable for those who live in the countryside and breed poultry.

There are a lot of use cases, all of them are based on the capabilities of the motor from the washing machine to rotate various nozzles or actuate auxiliary mechanisms. You can choose the most unusual option for using the removed equipment, but in order to implement your plan, you need to know how to connect the engine from the washing machine correctly so that the winding does not burn out.

washing machine motor

When using a powerful washing machine motor in a new incarnation, you must remember two important aspects of connecting it:

• such units do not start through the condenser;
• no start winding is needed.

• two white wires are from the tachogenerator, we will not need them;
• brown and red - go to the winding to the stator and rotor;
• gray and green are connected to graphite brushes.

Be prepared for the fact that in different models wires differ in color, but the principle of how to connect them remains the same. To detect pairs, ring the wires in turn: those going to the tachogenerator have a resistance of 60-70 ohms. Take them aside and tape them together so they don't get in the way. Ring the rest of the wires to find a pair for them.

Understanding the wiring diagram

Before further actions, you need to familiarize yourself with the electrical connection diagram - it is very detailed and understandable to any amateur home master.

Connecting the washing machine motor is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. First of all, we need wires coming from rotor and stator: according to the scheme, it is necessary to connect the stator winding to the rotor brush. To do this, we make a jumper (it is marked in pink), and isolate it with electrical tape. There are two wires left: from the rotor winding and a wire from the second brush, we connect them to the home voltage network.

Attention! If you connect the motor to 220 V, it immediately starts rotating. To avoid injuries, you must first firmly fix it on any surface: this way you guarantee the safety of testing.

You can change the direction of rotation simply - throw a jumper to other contacts. To turn on and off, connect the appropriate buttons, this can be done using the simplest connection diagrams, which can be easily found on special sites.

We briefly talked about how to connect the engine from an old washing machine to use it for household needs, but now you need a little improve new device.

speed controller

The engine from the washing machine has rather high speeds, so you need to make a regulator so that it works at different speeds and does not overheat. For this, the usual light intensity relay but needs a little tweaking.

1. We remove a triac with a radiator from an old machine, that's what it's called semiconductor device- in electronic control, it performs the function of a controlled switch.
2. Now you need to solder it into the relay chip instead of a low-power part. This procedure, if you do not have such skills, is best entrusted to a professional, a familiar electronics engineer or computer engineer.

In some cases, the motor normally copes with the new work without a speed controller.

Motor speed regulation

Types of washing machine engines

Asynchronous- is removed along with the condenser, which are of different types, depending on the model of the washing machine. It is advisable not to disturb its connection with a battery, the case of which is sealed, made of different metal or plastic.

Carefully! Such an engine can be removed from the machine only with a completely discharged capacitor - the current shock can be very significant.

Low voltage collector motors are distinguished by the fact that permanent magnets are placed on their stator, which are alternately connected to a direct voltage current. There is a sticker on the case where the voltage value is indicated, which is not recommended to be exceeded.

Engines electronic type must be dismantled together with the ECU - an electronic control unit, on the body of which there is a sticker indicating the maximum possible connection voltage. Observe the polarity because these motors do not have reverse.

Possible malfunctions

Now you know how to connect the electric motor to give it a new life, but there may be a small incident: the engine will not start. We need to understand the causes and find a way to solve the problem.

Check motor heating after it worked for a minute. In such a short period of time, the heat does not have time to spread to all parts, and it is possible to accurately fix the place of intense heating: the stator, the bearing assembly, or something else.

The main reasons for rapid heating are:

• wear or clogging of the bearing;
• greatly increased capacitance of the capacitor (only for asynchronous motor type).

Then we check every 5 minutes of work - three times is enough. If the fault is bearing- we understand, or. During further operation, we constantly monitor the heating of the engine. Avoid overheating, repairs can take a big hit on your home budget.